What I Am Wearing

The difference between bespoke vs. non-bespoke is truly astounding. While I may not notice it as I am actually wearing the garments, I see it in this picture, as bad as it may be. The way in which the jacket sits on me, makes all of my RTW and MTM for matter, look like second-third rate rubbish. While I am being a little harsh here, I must admit that that saying, 'once you go bespoke, you will never go back' is truer than truer. Only that my next suit purchase, will most likely not be able to be bespoke, as this was kind of a lucky one off deal that I managed to stumble upon. Might just have to settle for another MTM. Nevertheless, if my pictures can be an example for all of you on the verge of plunging into the bespoke arena, just have a look at the archives, and see how much better this suit looks on me versus all of the rest.....

Shoes: J.FitzPatrick (prototypes for wear-testing)
Suit: Bespoke, cut by Chittleborough & Morgan
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

The Next Big Trend: Colored Chukka Boots

Picture Courtesy of Septieme Largeur

Year after year, there are new trends in the shoe industry, some of which are great and some of which are crap. I believe that the next big one that you will start to see popping up from brand after brand, is colored chukka boots. Some companies have already started leading the way by bringing them out in their current collections, and others I know will soon follow. I happen to be quite excited about it, as I think that there aren't many better shoes options than a nice chukka boot, and colored suede just makes it all that more appealing in my opinion. I mean, even though I love my cigar suede ones, it gets a bit tiresome only being able to choose from the 57 shades of browns that you usually see them in. And who is to say that the dark green suede that you see done by Carmina (shown below) would not be just as versatile as it's brown alternative? If you are going to wear them with jeans or even khakis, that forest green is going to complement them beautifully!

Carmina, Picture Courtesy of Rugged Old Salt

Carmina, Picture Courtesy of The Armoury Blog

The more that I spend time in the shoe industry, and being constantly exposed to shoes and all of the different models, the more that I internally battle myself in deciding what my favorites are. One day it's a saddle shoe, next day it's a penny loafer, then a brogue etc. But the more that I do this, the more that I find myself truly liking chukka boots. Granted, I have always been a fan ever since Stefano Bemer gave me a pair and I wore it all over Italy (and everywhere else for that matter). That boot alone has given me such an appreciation for them, as I have experienced first hand the never-ending versatility of them. But I feel that I need to graduate from those, and jump into the next arena, possibly with a navy suede version, like the Septieme Largeur one pictured at the top. Coupled with a natural sole, that blue suede and any of them for that matter, would be the ideal knock around shoe, something that would be great for day to day wear but even have the ability to be smartened up when necessary.You simply can't beat that and I feel that it will be something that more and more people will start to recognize, which in turn will mean that more and more companies will start making them. Watch!

John Lobb

Saion

Corthay, Courtesy of Leffot

Corthay

While these shades only represent a small fraction of the possibilities that could be realized, its a nice step in the right direction. But what about a burgundy suede? A sea blue? Florence Purple? The possibilities are endless and there are so many opportunities to make something that is cool, eye-catching and more importantly unique... Can't say that it will be me, at least not in my first collection, but you can bet that I will aspire to come out with some burgundy or some crazy shade of blue, or maybe even gray. Gosh, I get excited just thinking about it! But in all seriousness, watch out, because I bet that this starts to grow like the plague, and by this upcoming fall and next spring/summer, you will see them everywhere! I don't know about you, but I look forward to it....

All by Septieme Largeur

On another note, things are progressing again after a small hiccup with my shoe line. After wearing my first set of trial fits I realized that my last was a bit on the wide side, not being as proportional as I had liked it to be, fitting more like a EX (or EE). I pretty much shaved off one of those E's and have been testing the results, of which I think look and feel better. Now that I have this out of the way, I simply need to work out the small details, make the entire collection and be on my way to getting them in the stores and on your feet! I appreciate all those who are still awaiting the release of them, and promise that you won't be let down!

Today's Favorites - Saint Crispins Saddle Shoe

So, I am back in Seattle feeling a bit strange, almost as if I am a stranger in my own city and am therefore a little bit discombobulated, which has left me unable to conjure something up for my long post on Mondays. Because of this I am leaving you with a tidbit on the ever so amazing Saint Crispins shoe brand, of whom I never seem to tire. Every time I see of new pair of shoes made by them, shown on Rugged Old Salt (as these were), I am always left astounded, particularly when they highlight the details that set them apart, such as the way that they finish their soles. While I am not usually so crazy about the soles' look, especially since it gets destroyed on the first wear, I must say that the way they look in the picture below is absolutely stunning. The manner in which they finished it with that glossy shine looks delicious to say the least. I would almost feel bad wearing these if they were my shoes, I might just want to leave them sole up, face down, as to show off the beauty of the work. Key word though, 'almost'...I would rock until that shine disappeared!

Shoes Of The Week - Gaziano & Girling Astaire

So I am in LA for a two day pit stop before heading back to Seattle, and am loving the feeling of being back in the States. Don't get me wrong, I love London, but as saying goes, there is nothing like home. Nevertheless, as promised I am back on the computer writing to all of you about shoes, and what better than to write about my favorite model by Gaziano & Girling, the Astaire. When I decided to get a pair of G&G's and wanted to do so as an MTO, I knew that I was going to get the Astaire, but just didn't know what colors that I wanted to get it in, as the options were literally endless. In the long run, I let my favorites get the best of me and just decided to go with midnight blue leather on top of navy blue suede. Not very creative, but I did really want a nice blue oxford and what better than to do so on a beautiful G&G.....However I quite enjoyed seeing what the gentlemen who purchased these two models managed to come up with. Granted, the brown pair is not too far off than what the Astaire comes stock in but if you look carefully he put in on the GG06 last and added a double sole. But the gray and black one is the business!! It reminds me of a shoe that might have come out of the Victorian era, but nicer! Anyway, I always love to see what people come up with for their MTO orders and there are not many better sites than Leffot (owner of the pictures) to do this!

See you back on Monday for a long post!!

Altan Bottier Beauties!!

Well, it's been another crazy busy day, scrambling around to sort out everything before my big trip home and because of all of this, I am left again without much time to write on the blog. But rest assured, instead of fruitless words, I am going to leave you with some unbelievable shoe porn that will leave you yearning for a pair of Altan shoes. Don't thank me now...it's my pleasure! I might try and squeeze a post out tomorrow before my flight but if not, then I will hopefully be back on Friday....

Today's Favorites - John Lobb Wingtip Brogue

Picture Courtesy of Steps & Style

Today has been a manic day and therefore I will not be writing much, as I don't have a lot of spare time, but in reality, what there is there to say? This pair of John Lobbs (Paris) is absolutely epic, as they always are are....I tell you, that while JLP would not be in my favorite, I can really say that I have ever been less than amazed by the RTW shoes that they make, and the styles that they manage to come up with. They have such slight particularities about them being so subtle that you might not even catch them. One of them would be the fact that the balmoral piece (top) in this shoe is stitched on top of the vamp, as opposed to underneath it as most pattern makers would design it. Subtle, yet distinguishable. Lovely shoe, beautiful in fact. I would wear these proudly.

On another note, I have some news. First, I will be heading back to my lovely hometown of Seattle for two weeks starting on May 24th. This means, that while keeping up with the blog is always one of my highest priorities, it will take a back seat while home. Don't worry though...this just means that instead of 5 posts a week, it might just be 3. Second, I am going to start to hosting 'Polish Contests' whereby, you (the readers) can shine your shoes, send me pics and then I will judge the 10 best, post those on the blog and then let the people decide whom the top 2 will be. They will win prizes. I will be doing this monthly to start and might even make it bi-monthly depending on the popularity of it. That being, start getting prepared and your polish skills in order. I should post this up by June 1st to kick it off.

Be well and to all those enjoying the sun right now, I am jealous of you!

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

The Beauty Of Made To Order Shoes

Gaziano & Girling St. James II, Courtesy of Zimmermann & Kim

Have you ever seen the coolest shoe ever, only that it came in just black or just brown or just some other color that you really didn't fancy, or just thought was plain boring. I have....about a million times. And what did you do when this happened? Probably nothing, because what could you do, especially if this brand did not have any custom offerings program, more simply known as MTO. Well, for me that is a shame, because the person gets all worked up, only to be left disappointed in the long run. Now, that doesn't mean that every brand in the whole world should have MTO, because it really depends on the factory that produces their shoes, how low they want to make their minimum order and for how much of a mark-up in price (for each shoe) they want to do this at. Some brands don't have a choice, some do. But the ones that do, for me, have a great advantage because the more that time goes on the more that I feel that there are higher numbers of people like me who simply are not satisfied with the common offering available. They want something unique, something that no one else has, something that other people go 'WOW' at.... And if they are creative enough, the executioin of MTO can do this just for them...

Many Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot and L'atelier du Chausseur

I put every picture that I have of the Corthay Wilfred above here....how many do you think came as a stock color offering? Probably about 2 or 3, maximum. But how many of them blow you away? Many none, maybe all of them? Maybe you are the guy that just wants a black or brown shoe? Who knows. But nevertheless, the beauty of MTO is that it allows for the designers/shoemaker to offer a much broader selection of his work. And because of this, the designer may actually be happier. I say this because a concoction that is created by the customer might resonate closer to what the designer would ideally like to make, as opposed to what he actually does, which will most likely be what the 'average consumer' wants. I will be honest with you, when I first thought about starting my shoe line, I just wanted to make extremely unique shoes, much like the bespoke ones that I have made, but as the time gets closer to launching, the more that I realize that I cannot just make what I like, but have to appeal to majority. But fret not, because I am bold enough to take the risk of doing a happy medium by creating things that mix between what I want to see in the market, but also what I believe could appeal to the masses.

G & G, Courtesy of Zimmermann & Kim

Saint Crispins, Courtesy of The Armoury

Edward Green, Courtesy of Leather Soul (I believe)

The only real downfalls of Made To Order shoes, is the amount of time that it usually takes to receive them (which requires a lot of patience) and the possibility of creating something ugly that you will then be stuck with. The second fright will really just be up to you and your idea of pairing colors and/or leathers. But the time constraint, albeit frustrating, is really out of many makers hands. If you think about it in a logical business sense (which every company has to), the factory will always want to put the order of 1000 pairs of shoes, before the order of 1 or 2 MTOs. It would be ideal if each factory just had a section that was strictly for MTO shoes, but that would most likely not be practical without a guarantee of about 100 orders/month, if not more. Therefore, as this will most likely never be the case, the only real downfall to getting a shoe that you customized, is the time that you have to wait for it. But like most good things in life, they are usually worth waiting for....