The Next Big Trend: Colored Chukka Boots

Picture Courtesy of Septieme Largeur

Year after year, there are new trends in the shoe industry, some of which are great and some of which are crap. I believe that the next big one that you will start to see popping up from brand after brand, is colored chukka boots. Some companies have already started leading the way by bringing them out in their current collections, and others I know will soon follow. I happen to be quite excited about it, as I think that there aren't many better shoes options than a nice chukka boot, and colored suede just makes it all that more appealing in my opinion. I mean, even though I love my cigar suede ones, it gets a bit tiresome only being able to choose from the 57 shades of browns that you usually see them in. And who is to say that the dark green suede that you see done by Carmina (shown below) would not be just as versatile as it's brown alternative? If you are going to wear them with jeans or even khakis, that forest green is going to complement them beautifully!

Carmina, Picture Courtesy of Rugged Old Salt

Carmina, Picture Courtesy of The Armoury Blog

The more that I spend time in the shoe industry, and being constantly exposed to shoes and all of the different models, the more that I internally battle myself in deciding what my favorites are. One day it's a saddle shoe, next day it's a penny loafer, then a brogue etc. But the more that I do this, the more that I find myself truly liking chukka boots. Granted, I have always been a fan ever since Stefano Bemer gave me a pair and I wore it all over Italy (and everywhere else for that matter). That boot alone has given me such an appreciation for them, as I have experienced first hand the never-ending versatility of them. But I feel that I need to graduate from those, and jump into the next arena, possibly with a navy suede version, like the Septieme Largeur one pictured at the top. Coupled with a natural sole, that blue suede and any of them for that matter, would be the ideal knock around shoe, something that would be great for day to day wear but even have the ability to be smartened up when necessary.You simply can't beat that and I feel that it will be something that more and more people will start to recognize, which in turn will mean that more and more companies will start making them. Watch!

John Lobb

Saion

Corthay, Courtesy of Leffot

Corthay

While these shades only represent a small fraction of the possibilities that could be realized, its a nice step in the right direction. But what about a burgundy suede? A sea blue? Florence Purple? The possibilities are endless and there are so many opportunities to make something that is cool, eye-catching and more importantly unique... Can't say that it will be me, at least not in my first collection, but you can bet that I will aspire to come out with some burgundy or some crazy shade of blue, or maybe even gray. Gosh, I get excited just thinking about it! But in all seriousness, watch out, because I bet that this starts to grow like the plague, and by this upcoming fall and next spring/summer, you will see them everywhere! I don't know about you, but I look forward to it....

All by Septieme Largeur

On another note, things are progressing again after a small hiccup with my shoe line. After wearing my first set of trial fits I realized that my last was a bit on the wide side, not being as proportional as I had liked it to be, fitting more like a EX (or EE). I pretty much shaved off one of those E's and have been testing the results, of which I think look and feel better. Now that I have this out of the way, I simply need to work out the small details, make the entire collection and be on my way to getting them in the stores and on your feet! I appreciate all those who are still awaiting the release of them, and promise that you won't be let down!

Black on Blue on Blue on Black!!

The more that I spend time here in England and the more this crappy weather prevails, the more I find myself wearing black and blue, together. Two to three years ago, I would have condemned this, but as the weather here is so unpredictable (literally being able to see 4 seasons within 10 minutes time), I constantly fear getting caught in a torrential downpour and ruining a pair of non-black shoes. Therefore, when I see rain on the forecast (which is constant these days), I reach for my trusty Miro loafers by Septieme Largeur. They are good looking, they go with everything (almost) and are comfortable...what more can I ask for, really? In all honesty, I would prefer it is brown suede, but when could I wear it? Never! But as time goes on, and my wildness tones down, I find myself appreciating more and more the pairing of these two colors, so long as somewhere in the outfit I have something that does not make me look so monotone.....like my socks. Gosh, I am such a hypocrite, aren't I??? Oh well, whatever!

Shoes: Septieme Largeur
Jacket: Gieves & Hawkes
Sweater (jumper): Intimissimi
Shirt: Primark
Tie: TK Maxx brand
Trousers: Zara

Today's Favorites - Camouflage Patina by Septieme Largeur

For most of you that have read this blog before, you are probably familiar with the fact that personally, I am not a fan of camouflage, at least not on articles of clothing for the general public. But, I have to say that these are pretty damn cool. Not that I would ever wear them, because it's just not my thing, but I have to say that I definitely respect the artistry that went behind this. I talked to Mathieu (the gentleman who does the patinas for Septieme Largeur) about these and he said that it was just something that he wanted to do, in order to create a challenge for himself. And what a challenge to pick, as I can imagine that it was incredibly hard....but what a great job he did, as it looks as if it could almost be a print, but instead was done by hand. While I don't actually believe that these were for a customer, they do now represent what can be done, should you so choose to go a bit out of the ordinary. With this now in his bag of tricks, it would very much appear that Mathieu's skills seem to be progressing as time goes on and I now look forward to whatever he challenges himself with next...

Red Trousers....Get Some!

I am not 100% positive in saying this, but I am quite sure that I prior to moving to Europe to study shoemaking, I never ever saw anyone wear red trousers. But over here in Europe, they are literally a staple piece in most stylish mens' wardrobe, which I think is quite great! I feel like many men in the States (or maybe just Seattle, where I am from) are mentally confined to simply wearing either navy, gray or khaki colored trousers. Yet over here, come Spring, you see everything but those, ranging from canary yellow, to baby blue to bright green. Obviously not everyone partakes in the colored trouser activity, but it is quite appealing to see just how elaborate people's outfits can become when they do give it a shot. While I can't say that I own any of those other colors that I just listed, I do find myself gravitating towards my reds quite often. And the nice thing about them (at least the color) is that they are not simply for spring occasions, being that they are a deeper red, which allows me to also put them on in the fall/winter. So, if you don't own a pair, I suggest you reconsider....it will liven up your wardrobe!

Shoes: Septieme Largeur (with custom blue patina)
Trousers: Zara
Jacket: Pete Werth
Jumper: Intimissimi
Shirt: Primark
Bow Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

What I Am Wearing

One of the biggest perks about working at a tailor's shop (apart from the amazing alterations that I manage to sneak in) is the fact that I get to take part in some of the best deals, like sample sales and private sales for the staff. Recently there was a sale for all of the staff of G&H of which they were offering some of the archival pieces from their military collection. A lot of this stuff was bespoke made and aged in range from 5-50+ years. It was on a first come first serve basis, so I managed to get in early and nab a couple of brilliant pieces such as this double-breasted naval blazer. Luckily for me, none of the insignia that typically adorns naval clothing was affixed to the jacket, so there were minimal alterations, especially considering the fact that it was as if the gentleman that they made it for was identical to me, only from the 1970's. Nevertheless, I have been very fortunate in my time here with being able to acquire some lovely clothing, and I must say that it has been a great pleasure having this advantage! (Sorry don't mean to rub it in...)

Shoes: Septieme Largeur
Blazer: Gieves & Hawkes
Trousers: H&M
Shirt: TK Maxx brand
Tie: XMI 

What I Am Wearing

There is nothing like a nice brogue. A good one can literally get you through almost anything. And while mine is slightly on the more casual side, due to it being a boot and having those metal eyelets, it still does a good job of appeasing my outfits ranging from casual to smart (dress casual). However, I would not pair these with a suit, at least not 95% of them. A heavy flannel just might go nice with these, but that would vary upon the cloth, the cut and the eye of the beholder. Nevertheless, being The Shoe Snob, I am ashamed to admit that this is my only real brogue shoe (being close to a full). While I have others that are half or quarter brogues, I don't even truly have a real full-brogue in any of the standard colors (brown, black, tan or burgundy - just my one in green, but that doesn't count). Funny enough its my self-proclaimed most versatile shoe in the world, yet there isn't one in my closet. I guess that when I was making shoes, I got too caught up in trying to do things that were unique, so much so that I pretty much ruled out making at least one basic. Oh well, soon enough I will have one in each color!

Shoes: Septieme Largeur
Jacket: Pete Werth
Trousers: H&M
Jumper: Banana Republic
Shirt: Primark
Knit Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

Today's Favorites - Septieme Largeur

I figured that while I have been pitching wholecuts quite tough for the last few weeks or so, I might as well keep on! I mean, how could I not after seeing these bad boys by Septieme Largeur? It just makes sense, doesn't it? I think so.....Nevertheless, the beauty about having a custom patina done on your shoes is the fact that you can have any shade of color that you would like, and even multiple shades of many colors if you fancy that. You see, for me, this blue is perfect. It's not too light, but it's not too dark either. It's just right and shows you that it is a blue. There would be not question about it, like navy can sometimes come across as black. This is blue, period. But you would have a hard time finding this exact color at a leather tannery or supplier. There might be something close, but not exact, and more likely than not, once lasted it would not look the same. It's amazing how far along shoes have come since their conception. I remember once going to some museum and seeing replicas of some of the first shoes made, and to think that since then we can now do what we do, having customized fit, color, shape, detail etc....it's quite amazing.....yet I feel that we are at the peak in terms of customization (not craftsmanship), because what more could we truly do to make a shoe unique? Add hovering capabilities? :-)

Shoes Of The Week - Aubercy Penny Loafers

The last shape of these loafers, by Aubercy, is absolutely stunning!! It's literally at that level, where it's perfect. Not too pointy, yet not too round either. Just right. And that's hard to do, truly. But I think that I have to say, that this just might have taken the lead in the race for my favorite black loafer. Everything about this shoe screams elegance and beauty. And it would seem that Aubercy is always hitting the nail on the head, but it's so hard to find them selling anywhere outside of France (with the exception of Leffot in NYC). As I have been noticing with my Miro loafer (in black) by Septieme Largeur, a beautiful model such as this, can take you a long way in the outfit department. There are not many things (literally) that you can't wear a pair like this with. They are elegant enough to pair with suits, yet loafer(y) enough to throw on with some nice jeans or casual trousers.....And the more that I wear my Miro's, the more that I think that I need a second pair, so that they don't wear out so quick....hmmmm....

Picture Courtesy Of: Depiedencap

Shoes Of The Week - Septieme Larguer

What an absolutely beautiful color!! The complexity of it amazes me, with how many different shades of blue (my favorite color) there is. From navy, to teal, to sea blue etc. it's a array of blues that leaves one of the most amazing colors (if not the best) that I have seen on a pair of shoes. I just might have to commission one of these and unfortunately steal the idea of whomever is the owner. Don't worry, I would do a different model, as not to be an exact copy-cat! Septieme Largeur continues to impress me, particularly with how easy they make having a shoe company is, from their classic (yet unique) styles to their amazing patinas, to the lovely last shapes and finally, the wonderful prices. It's no wonder they are getting big, very quickly! My hat is tipped to the gentleman that issued this shoe, as no doubt, when walking down the street heads will turn and impressions will be left! If only more men had to courage to do this (wear bold colored shoes), as I know that they would like to!

What I Am Wearing

It's been quite a lovely Fall/Winter season here in London, weather-wise, which has allowed me to wear things that would be otherwise saved for the Spring/Summer, such as this light gray Prince of Wales (POW) suit. While I think that I have only been able to wear it once (as it was just recently completed), I am eagerly awaiting the warmer weather to be able to flaunt it's beauty. I had always wanted a POW suit and now that I finally have one, I am excited to see all of the wonderful combinations that I can create with it. Here, unfortunately, I went the boring route with my black loafers, as even though the weather might have been relatively nice, you just never know when it might start raining. And to take a chance with my shoes, for me, is just a no-no. But as soon as Spring comes, you can bet that the browns, blues, suedes and tans will be the only shoes that I will be pairing with this suit....

Shoes: Miro by Septieme Largeur
Suit: Old bespoke, altered for me by Chittleborough & Morgan
Shirt: Can't remember, but not Primark this time...from TK Maxx (in US = TJ Maxx)
Tie: Either XMI or Ike Behar

The Perfect Winter Boot

Septieme Largeur

A few weeks ago, I did a post about the 5 Essential Shoes for Winter and listed that a heavy brogue boot would definitely be one of those shoes to get you through these cold months. What I did not realize then and just recently stumbled upon was the fact that there is another boot, not too far off from this, which I believe could be the ONE shoe (boot) that anyone would ever need for the winter season. That boot being, a light brogue boot with a leather sole, preferably as an oxford as seen here by Septieme Largeur. The reason that I did not think of this, is because you rarely see them. But after getting a pair and thinking about it, it makes perfect sense. Not only does it look good casually but can also be paired with the thicker suits that one tends to wear during the colder months.

As you can see, the features of the boot give it everything it needs to be as a dress shoe: slim sole, sleek last shape, normal heel height etc. The only thing that makes it casual would be the metal, ring eyelets (the bottom ones, as the trouser should always cover the top ones). But they are so nondescript that they create the perfect balance of being not too casual for pairing with suits, but just casual enough to make these boots look real good with a nice pair of jeans. The design, quite admirable, is something that I would have never thought of. And that's why I did not mind actually getting a pair, knowing that I would not put something like this into my first collection, and will now have to think about whether or not I will ever add it at all, for fear of having to give these away!

Edward Green (ladies) -- Leffot

Laszlo Vass

Rider Boot Co.

Perfetto

After wearing them a couple of times and thinking about their versatility, I realized that this very well could be my go-to winter shoe. It's dark, elegant but casual and can be paired with the majority of outfits that one could create, with the exception of fancy dress. That being, I figured that it's the perfect winter boot. Now as a second choice, as the oxford version is hard to find, I would have to say that the derby brogue boot is a good contender. I would not pair it with a suit but it makes a darn fine shoe for jeans and the likes of winter-type trousers such as moleskins and corduroys, just the things that I gravitate towards (as I am sure that you do too) once that weather gets so cold that I can feel it in my bones. And after re-evaluating my shoe collection, I see that oxford shoes are something that I do not really need to add any more of, and boots are something that I have far too little of. Good thing there will be 3 different boots in my first collection. I won't mind nicking a couple of pairs....

Alden

Edward Green -- Photo courtesy of Leffot

5 Essential Shoes For Winter

Like in all seasons, there are certain shoes that you find yourself gravitating towards more so than others. As yesterday might have just marked one of the coldest days that England has seen this Autumn/Winter, I figured that I would give you all a chance to get a head start on your winter shoe collection by providing what I believe are the most essential shoes for your wardrobe. Granted, I can't expect each of you to be able to go out and buy all 5 of them, but owning at least 2-3 would be enough to get you through a cold winter season. I, myself, only own 2 out these 5, but am in definite need of a nice brogue boot. Only trouble is, I don't find many that I like.....except for the one pictured below!

Brown pebble grain with rubber sole

Shoes by: Septieme Largeur

The thing about pebble-grained shoes, is that the leather seems to be a lot more susceptible to adverse weather with respects to it's plain calfskin cousin. I can't really say why that is, but it's definitely harder to ruin a pair of pebble grains from rain or dirt. It just seems to withstand more abuse and because of that makes it the perfect shoe for Autumn/Winter, as the weather is often dreary and volatile, creating the need of a shoe that can tolerate the unpredictability that each day brings. 


Chukka Boot - dark brown suede with rubber sole

Boots by: Stefano Bemer

You simply can't go wrong with a good chukka boot. If you get the right model, not only can it get you through a rough winter season, but can also get you through the entire year, as I believe it to be one of the most versatile shoes in existence. But you want to make sure that you get the dark brown model, as a lighter shade will not be as tolerable to rain and stain. And while in reality I am no suede expert, from my personal experiences I can tell you that all one needs is a good suede brush and some suede renewal in order to keep their shoes going strong. I actually own the model above (in Tobacco) and in the 3 years that I have had it, it has seen more mileage than any other of my shoes yet still looks tip-top.


Black dress shoe

Shoes by: Koji Suzuki

This may seem terribly obvious, but sometimes obvious things need reminding. A good black dress shoe whether with a rubber sole or leather, will not only get you through winter, but could get you through everything else as well! In all honesty, I still don't own an all-black oxford, only my saddles (with the red) and my black loafers account for my black shoes. I keep thinking that I need one, even though I don't go to many events that require that sort of formality. So, for me saying this to all of you, it's also like I am saying it to myself as well. Because when that awful rainy day comes, you don't want to get caught outside with some brown shoes on, because they just might turn black from the staining of the rain. A quarter brogue, like the one above, is one of the best models around as it's versatility (from jeans to formal events) is second to none.


Heavy brogue boot

Boot by: Alfred Sargent

This is hands down the nicest brogue boot that I have ever seen. The detailing of the brogueing on the top leather is simply amazing. It's simple, yet beautiful and elegant. The shape is perfect. Not too bulky, not too slim, just right. When made as elegant yet masculine as this, a brogue boot can get you through most days. Obviously, you don't want to be wearing this with a suit, but to me, this is the ultimate jean (or casual trouser) boot. If you have this sitting in your closet this winter, I bet that you wouldn't think twice about what to grab when you need to pop out, whether to grocery store or out on the town. Boots like this, make the dreadful weather of Autumn/Winter seem pleasurable!

P.S.  -- AS, if you are reading this and feeling generous for Christmas, my size is a UK7 :-).


Navy suede loafers

Shoes By: John Lobb

While this is not entirely suede, nor entirely what I had in mind (as I cannot find anything else in my archive of pictures) it will still do for a solid navy suede loafer. Some of you might be thinking that a shoe like this belongs in Spring/Summer and while it would fit right in to those seasons, we also must remember that there are many days (depending on where you live) during the A/W that although might be bone-chilling cold have a beautiful clear sky with the sun out. On those days, a navy suede loafer fits right in. Don't forget that navy is still a dark color, and blends well with the tones that you find most people gravitating towards during those chilly months. So when you are feel sporty and casual and don't want to grab your sneakers (trainers), there is always the option of the ever-versatile navy suede loafer!