Shoes Of The Week - Aubercy Penny Loafers

The last shape of these loafers, by Aubercy, is absolutely stunning!! It's literally at that level, where it's perfect. Not too pointy, yet not too round either. Just right. And that's hard to do, truly. But I think that I have to say, that this just might have taken the lead in the race for my favorite black loafer. Everything about this shoe screams elegance and beauty. And it would seem that Aubercy is always hitting the nail on the head, but it's so hard to find them selling anywhere outside of France (with the exception of Leffot in NYC). As I have been noticing with my Miro loafer (in black) by Septieme Largeur, a beautiful model such as this, can take you a long way in the outfit department. There are not many things (literally) that you can't wear a pair like this with. They are elegant enough to pair with suits, yet loafer(y) enough to throw on with some nice jeans or casual trousers.....And the more that I wear my Miro's, the more that I think that I need a second pair, so that they don't wear out so quick....hmmmm....

Picture Courtesy Of: Depiedencap

Today's Favorites - Don Ville Belgian Loafers

I have always been very intrigued by the Belgian loafer, yet have never really come across them in real life, only in pictures. And while that relationship remains the same, I have found a few that I absolutely love and will most likely look to commission in the near future when I can accumulate some disposable income. These models presented are by American bespoke/MTO shoemaker, Don Ville. While I really really like the one below with orange piping, I have to admit that it was the Prince of Wales fabric one that truly grabbed my attention and made me want to get a pair. As most of you know, my obsession with using suit fabrics on shoes, has yet to diminish and I think that this smart/casual loafer is the perfect option to accommodate such material. While both of these models are spoken for (and thus not readily available to the public), I do believe that anyone can commission what he/she pleases (immediately in the leather option) so long as it is available, but must supply his/her own fabric should they choose to go that route.... Enjoy!

It's All In The Detail

Picture Courtesy Of: Moda Image

One of my dear blog readers, who frequents London as business calls, just happen to pop in today for an updated chat on life, shoes and the future of my career. Because he happened to visit me in the flesh, I showed him the pictures (via my camera phone) that I have of my upcoming collection. The pictures show what is current with my prototype production, but we still have a month or so before they are complete. Nevertheless, he was able to get an idea of my collection to come and a feeling of how it differs from others while at the same time provides a feeling of familiarity: 'classics with a twist.'

We discussed that in a saturated market, where everything under the sun has already been done, the one thing that differentiates one another, is the minute detailing. That being, when I saw these loafers (above), by Aubercy, they immediately stood out to me. Granted, some people would not appreciate this. But for someone like me who has seen 10 million different pairs of shoes is his life and purposefully looks at them, this would have just been another loafer (of a trillion) in calf and suede, had it not that the red stitching. But because it does have this contrasted stitching, it no longer is one of a trillion, it becomes one of one (or maybe 2 or 3 etc). It stands out and makes me stop and say, "now there is something different, something worth pausing to give a double-take."

And this is what I hope to do for all of you. To give you something that stands out, not in an loud or ostentatious way, but in a way that is discreet yet noticeable. A way that says that you, the wearer, appreciate your shoes and the small details in life, the little ones that make us stand out from the crowd....

Shoes Of The Week - Mannina

There is something about wholecut loafers that I just absolutely love. The fact that they seem to derive from a Prince Albert shoe but usually will have a normal sole on them and are intended for actual wear as opposed to prancing around your big mansion, is quite appealing to me. And then, there are so many things that you can do to them to give them a little bit of character, like add a medallion, some tassels or some thick and contrasting piping around the edges etc. These ones here, by Mannina, seem to have added all of those little extras that I just listed and what came out, to me, is beautiful loafer that (if not for the color) could get an amazing amount of wear. Shame that light suede is such a delicate material, something that can only be worn confidently in few countries (like Italy) without fear of ridicule or the chance of ruining them. But imagine these in a nice snuff suede or something a bit darker, that would be a shoe to have, cherish and rock your socks in....

What I Am Wearing

One of the funniest things about growing up, is doing things that you always said that you wouldn't. Obviously, what I am referring to is not something that dire, but it is still hypocritical of me nonetheless and that is the fact that I continuously find myself wearing black shoes with navy trousers. Granted, this was not something that I was so against, but rather preached that navy was always better complimented with brown. Yet, in Europe, where one finds themselves walking about much more than one does in America (in a big city), the prospect of rain, sleet, snow or whatever coming, scares me from wearing and thus possibly ruining my light colored shoes. Therefore, I find myself putting on black shoes and dark trousers, as they are much harder to stain. What's even funnier, is that as I put this together more often, I quite like it, especially since it allows me to wear a bold color sock and have a nice contrast between my shoes, socks and trousers...

Shoes: Miro by Septieme Largeur
Trousers: H&M
Sweater (jumper): Primark
Socks: Duchamp
Tie: XMI Platinum
Dress shirt: Primark

Loafers With Suits

A topic that is always good for discussion, which usually ends up in subjective opposing views, is more likely than not, a topic that is worth revisiting. And while I am pretty sure that I have never brought up this topic before, I believe that there are many opinions about the subject at hand. Since I am currently dressed in the fashion that I am presenting, please allow me to share with all of you, my subjective viewpoint on loafers with suits.

While an oxford will always be a more formal shoe than a loafer there are still many options of slip on's that are elegantly compatible to a suit. Anybody who says otherwise needs to learn that the so called 'rules' set out by well-dressed gentleman many years ago, were not the 'end all be all' and definitely do not dictate what one should wear but rather guide them to dressing elegantly. After that, style sets in and people decide for themselves (based on personal preferences) what will look good on them. Some of them pull it off and some of them don't.

Now the beauty about wearing loafers with your suits is that you are able to show off your socks. But this is dangerous game, because there is a fine line between doing what looks good and doing something that is horribly off. I have my own opinions about this and I will present them here as we shall go through what works and what doesn't.


ALWAYS

 

Shoes By: Hugo Boss 

Wearing socks that match your suit are generally regarded as a safe way to go. Granted, it's not always that fun as it kind of just blends your suit into your shoes, but it's always a sure way to not drag attention and to look more on the elegant side of things. However, you can spice it up while still playing it relatively safe by having a two-toned sock with one color matching your trousers and the other of a complimentary color. That way you are being safe but also adding a bit of spice to your outfit. Me being the style freak that I am, I usually will like to have that complimentary color (the one that does not match my trouser) match either my shirt or my tie.

SOMETIMES

Shoes By: Poulsen & Skone for Gieves & Hawkes

Before coming to England, I used to love wearing striped socks (like the ones I am wearing above) and quite frankly still do, but must admit I have been overtaken for an admiration of bright, solid color socks that you find many British men wearing. As you can see here, my friend and colleague, Stuart, is doing the right thing in this scenario by pairing complimentary colors coming from his shoes, socks and trousers (navy suit). So, when I say that this look is 'sometimes', it's because there are instances when people become a little overzealous and start wearing socks that completely clash and stick out like a sore thumb, causing a bit of overkill. Sorry that I don't have an example of that, but I am sure that you will know what I mean at the first instance that you see it.  

NEVER

Right Picture Courtesy Of: The Sartorialist

While Lapo Elkann is a dandy and wears some of the coolest outfits, and the guy on the right is incredibly sharp, I just find it very hard to appreciate the idea of going sock-less when wearing a sharp suit or black loafers. To me, it's just big clash, from the look to the elegance of it to the fact that neither one of these people are in a tropical area. Granted, there is a place and a time and a color of suit and loafers when wanting to go sock-less, but neither one of these cases fits the criteria. Wearing a linen suit, with some brown (or lighter shades of color) loafers, in an area that is humid, sunny and full of palm trees, smoking a cigar with your Borsalino hat on: this is time for going sock-less with your suit. But having a navy suit with black loafers, just doesn't mesh. It's too trendy and not timeless and therefore I give it the thumbs down.

And while there is no right or wrong, there definitely is what looks good and what doesn't. Now, coming from a relatively non-traditionalist background, my rules are pretty lenient. Others however, would not even pair loafers with suits, but that way of thinking is not going to be around much longer. So, if you have always been on the fence, give it a go, and play around with your socks, because I can tell you, the people who make me look twice at their outfits are the ones who are going bold but also staying classic and elegant at the same time. Figure that on out!

Shoes Of The Week - Berluti's Blue Beauties

I have always had this love/hate relationship with Berluti. I have always loved them for their stylistic nature. I must say that the designers, for me, have always hit the nail on the head and made some of the most elegant shoes that I have ever seen. I have always hated them for their price vs. cost vs. quality factor and how I believe that their mark up is way beyond reason, which will also mean that I will most likely never be able to afford one, or at least won't need (nor want) to get one when I can afford it. But I simply cannot deny their beauty and must admire them for their boldness in coming out with pieces that are unique, colorful and at the same time maintain a manner of elegance.

So when a client came to me with a pair of these to shine, I immediately fell in love with them. I mean, they already had a couple notches in my book, simply for the fact that they were blue (being my favorite color and all) but also due to their uniquely intriguing design. Essentially, it's a whole cut loafer. But they managed to sew on the penny strap (directly on top) and weave through the leather to make the apron as a boat shoe would with it's side laces. While I am sure that this is not the only shoe to have had this done, I can say that I have not seen it before, or at least did not take notice if I did. Nevertheless, among the sea of black shoes that I regularly get, I always love something like this that takes the monotony out of the job....

What I Am Wearing

It's funny how much things can change in such a short time. I used to try my absolute hardest to not wear black shoes. It's not because I did not like them nor wanted to be so different, but more so wanted to be adventurous and see what I could conjure up with shoes that were not 'safe' and 'easy.' But since moving to the capitol city of gray skies (where it might go from rainy to sunny 5 times in one day), I have noticed myself gravitating towards these lovely loafers, more than once within the same week. Call me a maniac, but I try to not repeat shoes within the same week. But with these 'Miro' loafers by Septieme Largeur, I actually enjoy wearing black. I actually love this shoe in every color that it comes in. It just has such a lovely shape. I think that the blue version will be next....and then maybe suede!

Shoes: Miro by Septieme Largeur
Waistcoat: H&M
Tie: Stefano Ricci
Shirt: Primark
Trousers: H&M

Shoes -- Part 2: Style & Terminology -- Loafers/Slip On's

Among the more casual forms of dress shoes within the shoe industry are the lovely non-laced loafer shoes (or slip-on's). Although the origin of loafers most likely trace back to way before the internet might tell me, the popularity of them came about around the 1930's, when Norwegian shoemakers were exporting these moccasin like shoes to the rest of Europe. Apparently American tourists took a liking to them and Esquire magazine did a feature on them, enticing G.H. Bass to come out with their own version, called 'Weejun' (hence the name sounding like Norwegian). From that point on, they seemed to skyrocket in popularity with slit-strapped loafers being made and heavily worn by East Coast school prep's who put pennies into the slit. From this trend, the term Penny Loafer (a version pictured above, by Septieme Largeur) came about, and seems to remain strong to this day. Now days we have all types of loafers and here I will begin to show all of you which ones are which. If I forget any, please feel free to add to the commentary.

Butterfly Loafers

I had never known (or maybe had never thought about) the butterfly loafer before moving to England. Then again, this place has made me more conservative (not in thinking) in the year that I have been here and because of that I might have not even taken a second look at them prior to 2010, even if I had known about them. But nevertheless, I am glad that my views have changed, as I find them to be one of the nicer loafers in circulation. This pair here, a bespoke model by Gaziano & Girling, is slightly different than the way it is usually portrayed, in it's classic sense, and that is without the brogueing on the straps. The butterfly loafer is said to have been created by Mr. George Cleverley himself and I must say that my hat is tipped to him, for I look at this and still see a loafer that is not only unique but elegantly timeless. This is one model of shoe that is surely on my to-get list!

Tassel Loafers

I tell you, there was nothing that I hated more than tassel loafers when I was young, and that is partly because I come from the States. Probably everyone can picture the guy who is wearing a baggy suit with those Cole Haan pinch tassel loafers (as we speak I am desperately trying to find a picture on Google of this, with no luck!), the ones that are super ugly with crappy leather and no shape at all. Anyway, this idea of wearing tassel loafers was ruined for me until I moved to Italy and saw how a man who knew how to dress well could pair his tassel loafers with his outfit and make them look quite nice, so long as they were not those shitty ones loved by American businessman. Surely you know what I am talking about? Anyway, I love them now, so long as they are done well, as the pair above are, by Saint Crispins.

Whole Cut Loafers

Whole cut loafers are among my favorite type of loafers, being that they have that minimalist look to them, which is strange, as I am by no means a minimalist. I don't know. My tastes change everyday anyway. Tomorrow my favorites will be apron toed loafers......Back onto subject. I like them. They are simple, elegant and let's not forget, cool (like these crazy banana yellow ones by Scarpe di Bianco). I believe that it takes a real shoe freak to like these, which is probably why you don't find them often being offered by shoe brands. When on, they look like a boot, which most people don't like to give that impression, especially when dressing in a suit. But when you have your inseam taken up to the point that the bottom of your trousers sit (with no break) on the top of your shoe with an opening of 14 inches, as I do, then you get to see the whole shoe, with no mistakes about it!

Prince Albert Loafers

Popularized -- at least one would think considering the name -- by Prince Albert, who was a great sartorialist, the Prince Albert loafer is now what we think of when using dress slippers for the house to wear in velour and pair with our smoking jackets while drinking Loius XIII (Cognac). At least that's what you see in the Ralph Lauren ads. But I like to think of them differently, like the one that I made, in brown, directly to your left. I hope to see these one day made with thicker soles and being worn on a daily basis as I think that they give the daring man a chance to be fun at throwing a nice, contrasting color of sock with this outfit, you know....to spice things up. (BTW, these are also a version of the whole cut loafer, but having a much larger opening for your foot)

Shoe By: Del Toro

Pumps

Pumps, you will find, are generally a shoe that you wear for formal occasions and will find them in some sort of patent leather form, as is the one at the top by Dimitri Bottier. But when one wants to be fun, you can find them in all sorts of arrangements, like these ostrich pumps by Barker Black. They are a fun shoe, but can really one be worn in certain environments, at least for most. I wouldn't mind wearing them regularly, but then again, traveling to the SE of London most days, I might find myself in some predicaments...that was a joke, just in case you are traumatized. Moving swiftly on...pumps, I believe, got their name from their construction, which if the shoe is bespoke or high end, should be a pump stitch. Now, I know what this word is, but I have no idea what it means. I am pretty sure that it is some way of stitching the sole directly to the insole -- by hand. But if you read the Carreducker's blog and type in pump-stitch to their search bar, you will find a much better explanation, I am sure. 

Kilty Loafers

It should be easy to see where this name derives, as it is so clearly evident. Kilty loafers are usually something that you will see paired with tassels, but have been recently popularized by the likes of Italian shoemakers to make in other versions, such as this one here, by Riccardo Bestetti. I don't really have much to say on these. Some I like, some I hate. To me they are strictly a shoe that is for fun, as I don't see them as professional. I would rather wear them with jeans...

Side Gusset Shoes (AKA lazy man's oxford - which is a loafer)

Aaawww, the side gusset shoe. Not sure that I could ever like this, as to me, it represents something that is fake, like a pre-made bow-tie. I just have never been the person for illusions in clothing, something trying to pass off as something that it is not. I mean, don't get me wrong, the George Cleverley shoe above is beautiful, no doubt, but the side gusset with laces is just not my style. Now, on the other hand, if it did not have laces, then it would be okay, but you tend to find that the majority do, as this seems to be a new trend right now in the shoe industry, probably because many men are super lazy and can't be fussed to lace their shoes but still want the professional look of an oxford.

Anyway, there are probably variations of many other loafers, but as usual, I am tired and think that the 2+ hours that I have spent on this post is good enough. So if I have missed anything, please feel free to comment. If not, enjoy the new week into September...

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

(oh yea, I have a picture of a side gusset shoe without laces, below by Koji Suzuki --- beautiful!!)