My New Service at Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row

 

The Shoe Snob is now reachable and is offering a new service at Gieves & Hawkes at No.1 Savile Row in London, England. To continue on my journey within the shoe industry, I have found myself offering artisan shines for those who wish to set their shoes apart from the rest.

Taken from my background in shoemaking, I have added to London, with the help of Gieves & Hawkes, what we believe to be fairly uncommon: the opportunity to get a shoe-shine in the artisan/military type of way. When I first learned how to make shoes, my first 2 weeks were literally just polishing finished shoes by hand. Not only did this teach me the art of patience and discipline, but it helped me realize that the polishing of the shoe, is one of the most important parts of the shoemaking process, yet is also a part that may go frequently overlooked and unappreciated. However, few people seem to realize that leather is not naturally shiny, nor beautiful and it takes a good 1-3 hours (depending on leather and state of shoe) of hand-polishing to give it that $3000 mirror-looking quality.

So for those of you who truly care about your shoe's lifespan and looks, I thought that I would inform you that as well as offering my services to you as a writer on my blog I am also now offering them as an artisan shiner for your shoes. So if you ever happen to be on Savile Row in London, come pop in to say hello and possibly leave your shoes for a great mirror-like shine!

On some of the pictures, you will notice before (out of the box) and after's (when I am done shining them), like the black cap-toe and cognac colored derby's.

Black on Blue on Blue on Black!!

The more that I spend time here in England and the more this crappy weather prevails, the more I find myself wearing black and blue, together. Two to three years ago, I would have condemned this, but as the weather here is so unpredictable (literally being able to see 4 seasons within 10 minutes time), I constantly fear getting caught in a torrential downpour and ruining a pair of non-black shoes. Therefore, when I see rain on the forecast (which is constant these days), I reach for my trusty Miro loafers by Septieme Largeur. They are good looking, they go with everything (almost) and are comfortable...what more can I ask for, really? In all honesty, I would prefer it is brown suede, but when could I wear it? Never! But as time goes on, and my wildness tones down, I find myself appreciating more and more the pairing of these two colors, so long as somewhere in the outfit I have something that does not make me look so monotone.....like my socks. Gosh, I am such a hypocrite, aren't I??? Oh well, whatever!

Shoes: Septieme Largeur
Jacket: Gieves & Hawkes
Sweater (jumper): Intimissimi
Shirt: Primark
Tie: TK Maxx brand
Trousers: Zara

It's Just Me And My Pink Laces!

Some might call this overkill, others might call it brilliant, I just call it being bored from conservatism and wanting to do something about it! Because every now and then, an outfit needs a injection of fun color to liven it up a bit....and as I have said before, a touch of extravagant lacing helps to meet that need. Most people go for the classic red laces but as I had a tie that matched with my shoes (+ the pink laces), I thought 'what the heck, why not?!' The problem with pink though, is that too much of it (especially in a bright shade) starts to create an effect that becomes undesirable to the eye. But when done in control and used as an accent, I quite enjoy the idea of pink being incorporated into one's outfit.

For those that feel the same, yet can't find the laces to complete the outfit, check out my eBay store.

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me.
Suit: Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Tie: DKNY

Red Trousers....Get Some!

I am not 100% positive in saying this, but I am quite sure that I prior to moving to Europe to study shoemaking, I never ever saw anyone wear red trousers. But over here in Europe, they are literally a staple piece in most stylish mens' wardrobe, which I think is quite great! I feel like many men in the States (or maybe just Seattle, where I am from) are mentally confined to simply wearing either navy, gray or khaki colored trousers. Yet over here, come Spring, you see everything but those, ranging from canary yellow, to baby blue to bright green. Obviously not everyone partakes in the colored trouser activity, but it is quite appealing to see just how elaborate people's outfits can become when they do give it a shot. While I can't say that I own any of those other colors that I just listed, I do find myself gravitating towards my reds quite often. And the nice thing about them (at least the color) is that they are not simply for spring occasions, being that they are a deeper red, which allows me to also put them on in the fall/winter. So, if you don't own a pair, I suggest you reconsider....it will liven up your wardrobe!

Shoes: Septieme Largeur (with custom blue patina)
Trousers: Zara
Jacket: Pete Werth
Jumper: Intimissimi
Shirt: Primark
Bow Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

What I Am Wearing

One of the biggest perks about working at a tailor's shop (apart from the amazing alterations that I manage to sneak in) is the fact that I get to take part in some of the best deals, like sample sales and private sales for the staff. Recently there was a sale for all of the staff of G&H of which they were offering some of the archival pieces from their military collection. A lot of this stuff was bespoke made and aged in range from 5-50+ years. It was on a first come first serve basis, so I managed to get in early and nab a couple of brilliant pieces such as this double-breasted naval blazer. Luckily for me, none of the insignia that typically adorns naval clothing was affixed to the jacket, so there were minimal alterations, especially considering the fact that it was as if the gentleman that they made it for was identical to me, only from the 1970's. Nevertheless, I have been very fortunate in my time here with being able to acquire some lovely clothing, and I must say that it has been a great pleasure having this advantage! (Sorry don't mean to rub it in...)

Shoes: Septieme Largeur
Blazer: Gieves & Hawkes
Trousers: H&M
Shirt: TK Maxx brand
Tie: XMI 

What I Am Wearing

Before coming to England, I can wholeheartedly admit that I did not have a clue about suits and good tailoring. I used to even work in a place that sold (what I believed to be) nice suits but after seeing the quality of the cuts and tailors here on the Row (as we snobs like to call it), I now realize that what I used to see in the States was like a top sirloin from the grocery store and now I am dabbling in the Kobe beef from a 5-star restaurant. It's absolutely amazing what a good tailor can not only do for your figure, but for your whole image, and here at Gieves, we have someone who is rumored to be among the best and considering some of the things that I have seen him do, I don't doubt it! And in this new found passion of mine (whereby I am selling my personal shoes to buy more suits), I have come to love a nice double-breasted suit. Something about it just really appeals to me even though I am quite sure that I may not have the stature for them, as I am not the tallest of guys. Nevertheless, I don't care and will continue to pick up more and more of them, in every color I can! I must admit though, that my next order of suiting, is unfortunately not a DB, but rather a lovely navy flannel, peak lapel, single button suit and I can't wait to get it!!

Shoes: J.FitzPatrick design, Gaziano & Girling produced
Suit: Gieves (older label)
Shirt: TK Maxx
Tie: Robert Talbott, Best Of Class

What I Am Wearing

For the life of me, I still cannot understand why I don't see more gentlemen wearing burgundy shoes. Come to think of it, I can't seem to recall, ever since I have been in this country (England), having seen someone wearing burgundy shoes with a suit, and almost, burgundy shoes period. It's such a lovely color that compliments blue better than any other color (even brown), yet it would appear that not many other people share that same sentiment. It could also very well be that English shoemakers (from what I have seen) don't really offer that many shoes in the burgundy color. Sure they may have one or two out of their entire collection, but if you don't happen to like the model that the burgundy shoe comes in, you aren't going to buy it, are you? It's literally like people have just been conditioned to make black shoes and wear them, with everything they have. Of course you have the rebellious ones that wear brown, but rare are the men who put on a burgundy shoe. Well, for now I guess that I will stand alone, and hope that with the introduction of my shoe line, and my burgundy wholecut that will be offered, more people will see that it's a lovely color that compliments, beautifully, a navy suit!

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me
Suit: Gieves & Hawkes, Made To Measure
Shirt: Don't remember, from TK Maxx
Tie: Tino Cosma

What I Am Wearing

I have never really been a big fan of pairing sport coats with trousers, but since I have a few jackets, I try and force myself as much as I can. The reason that I am not such a big fan of it, is the fact that I feel that the outfit always seems to look a bit jumbled, considering the fact that you don't tend to match the color of your trousers to your jacket, which leaves you pairing many colors together. I do have to say though, that this is something that the Italian population has down to a "T," and something that I truly envy them for. But I guess that with money (and time), I will only get better, as I will purposefully coordinate the outfit at the store and then buy it, as opposed to buying separate pieces (like I do) and trying to work them out at home during my morning rush. Nevertheless, utilizing outfits like this (on the more dress-casual side) allows me to wear my loafers more, which I am currently in a phase with....

Shoes: Gieves & Hawkes (by Edward Green and dyed by Paulus Bolten)
Jacket: Pete Werth
Trousers: H&M
Shirt: Ted Baker
Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

What I Am Wearing

The more and more that you see my personal collection, the more that you will realize that I love to gravitate towards two-toned shoes. This is actually a pair, despite being colors that I don't particularly think go that well together, is one of my favorite models. The only shame is, the more that I spend wearing bespoke shoes and shoes that come in narrow width, the more that I feel that many of the shoes that I bought in America, are too big. In the sense that being the fool that I can be, I would just always buy US 8D, thinking that they would be fine. But like shoes do, some fit bigger than others, and if you look closely you will notice that the sides of these are gaping, indicating that there is too much space. Needless to say, after wearing these for the first time in about a year or two, I came to the conclusion that I am going to sell them, as I no longer need them and need to free up space in my miniature European closet. So after I clean them up a bit, I will be putting them up for sale! Be on the look out if you fancy them.

Shoes: Magnanni
Suit: Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

What I Am Wearing

If I could wear a 3-piece or double breasted suit everyday for the rest of my life, I just might consider it. And it's not that I couldn't, because it is simply just a matter of doing so, but in today's world there are many events/situations that really don't call for it. In the sense, that if I was to do so, I may be considerably overdressed in many situations. But then, I watch shows such as Boardwalk Empire, and it seems that back then they did not go anywhere or do anything without being in an elegant suit. And even though I am very grateful and happy to be from the era that I am, I always wish that we still dressed as such. There was a manner of elegance that was spread across society and even criminals were dapper Dons. But in today's world, if you showed up in a 3-piece suit to watch the football game (whether it be the American or European version), you just might get told off. What a pity.....

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me
Suit: MTM Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Some Italian brand, will update later

What I Am Wearing

This is an older picture, when I was using my sub-par camera, but I wanted to show you a little bit more of how I sport the green shoes, as well as give off my Gordon Gekko, Wall Street look. On that note, there is yet another thing that I have become enamored with since arriving on Savile Row: the braces (suspenders), particularly these cotton one's that we sell at Gieves & Hawkes. Since working here, I have purchased all four of the colors that they come in: black, navy, light blue and red. While I tend to get the most use out of the navy, I still enjoy having my options and am looking to get them in green, purple and gray, when I can.

I have yet to venture off pairing my green brogues with anything other than navy, but there are an array of trouser colors that would suit a pair of green shoes. As I move into my new flat in London (as we speak) and finally have ALL of my stuff in one place, I will be able to pick my outfits a lot better, putting together concoctions that I have to imagine up!

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me, using Rothschild upper from G&G, and hand dyed by myself.
Trousers: H&M
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Hardy Amies
Braces: Gieves & Hawkes

Loafers With Suits

A topic that is always good for discussion, which usually ends up in subjective opposing views, is more likely than not, a topic that is worth revisiting. And while I am pretty sure that I have never brought up this topic before, I believe that there are many opinions about the subject at hand. Since I am currently dressed in the fashion that I am presenting, please allow me to share with all of you, my subjective viewpoint on loafers with suits.

While an oxford will always be a more formal shoe than a loafer there are still many options of slip on's that are elegantly compatible to a suit. Anybody who says otherwise needs to learn that the so called 'rules' set out by well-dressed gentleman many years ago, were not the 'end all be all' and definitely do not dictate what one should wear but rather guide them to dressing elegantly. After that, style sets in and people decide for themselves (based on personal preferences) what will look good on them. Some of them pull it off and some of them don't.

Now the beauty about wearing loafers with your suits is that you are able to show off your socks. But this is dangerous game, because there is a fine line between doing what looks good and doing something that is horribly off. I have my own opinions about this and I will present them here as we shall go through what works and what doesn't.


ALWAYS

 

Shoes By: Hugo Boss 

Wearing socks that match your suit are generally regarded as a safe way to go. Granted, it's not always that fun as it kind of just blends your suit into your shoes, but it's always a sure way to not drag attention and to look more on the elegant side of things. However, you can spice it up while still playing it relatively safe by having a two-toned sock with one color matching your trousers and the other of a complimentary color. That way you are being safe but also adding a bit of spice to your outfit. Me being the style freak that I am, I usually will like to have that complimentary color (the one that does not match my trouser) match either my shirt or my tie.

SOMETIMES

Shoes By: Poulsen & Skone for Gieves & Hawkes

Before coming to England, I used to love wearing striped socks (like the ones I am wearing above) and quite frankly still do, but must admit I have been overtaken for an admiration of bright, solid color socks that you find many British men wearing. As you can see here, my friend and colleague, Stuart, is doing the right thing in this scenario by pairing complimentary colors coming from his shoes, socks and trousers (navy suit). So, when I say that this look is 'sometimes', it's because there are instances when people become a little overzealous and start wearing socks that completely clash and stick out like a sore thumb, causing a bit of overkill. Sorry that I don't have an example of that, but I am sure that you will know what I mean at the first instance that you see it.  

NEVER

Right Picture Courtesy Of: The Sartorialist

While Lapo Elkann is a dandy and wears some of the coolest outfits, and the guy on the right is incredibly sharp, I just find it very hard to appreciate the idea of going sock-less when wearing a sharp suit or black loafers. To me, it's just big clash, from the look to the elegance of it to the fact that neither one of these people are in a tropical area. Granted, there is a place and a time and a color of suit and loafers when wanting to go sock-less, but neither one of these cases fits the criteria. Wearing a linen suit, with some brown (or lighter shades of color) loafers, in an area that is humid, sunny and full of palm trees, smoking a cigar with your Borsalino hat on: this is time for going sock-less with your suit. But having a navy suit with black loafers, just doesn't mesh. It's too trendy and not timeless and therefore I give it the thumbs down.

And while there is no right or wrong, there definitely is what looks good and what doesn't. Now, coming from a relatively non-traditionalist background, my rules are pretty lenient. Others however, would not even pair loafers with suits, but that way of thinking is not going to be around much longer. So, if you have always been on the fence, give it a go, and play around with your socks, because I can tell you, the people who make me look twice at their outfits are the ones who are going bold but also staying classic and elegant at the same time. Figure that on out!