My New Gaziano & Girling 'Astaires'

A befitting name for my preferred Gaziano & Girling shoe, the Astaire. Surely named after my favorite style icon Fred Astaire, this shoe not only represents him, his style and his personality to a "T," but also represents what I feel that is truly lacking from shoe society and what I would like to see more of. Why is it that a navy shoe is not more popular? I look at this and I see something that could surely be introduced into society, seeing business men wearing this as a professional shoe. Navy (or blue), in my opinion, is just as versatile as  brown, is not ostentatious in any way and would look good with almost all of the colors of the suit spectrum, with the exception of black. Yet as I always say, why don't we see blue shoes more often? Whatever the case, I definitely plan to try and break this mold with the inclusion of the color blue into many of my shoe styles for my upcoming collections. Obviously, I cannot make a blue shoe for every model I make, but I can say that there will be at least one blue (or navy) option for each season that I produce shoes. For my first collection, there are already two and I am quite excited about them and think that many of you will be too (at least let's hope so...).

Well, I just received these today and cannot wait to wear them. Be on the look out for some outfit pictures that I will take in order to show just how practical and easy a blue shoe can be in the average wardrobe. Enjoy the weekend!

 

Today's Favorites - Crocodile Whole Cuts by Riccardo Bestetti

There is beauty and then there is beauty. These shoes by Riccardo Bestetti fall into both categories. There is nothing quite like a whole cut shoe in crocodile, as I believe this is the only way that one should have it. Just the other day, this American gentleman was in G&H and he had a pair of crocodile cowboy boots in sea blue coloring that he wanted me to shine. While I was not so enamored with the fact that they were cowboy boots, I was head over heels for the leather in the magnificent blue that it was in. It made me think that one day, when I have enough money, I might commission Mr. Bestetti to make me a pair of these whole cuts in blue crocodile. What a sight that will be.... Anyway, enjoy the beautiful pieces of art that these are, and don't get too jealous of that beautiful fiddleback waist.

What I Am Wearing

It's funny how much things can change in such a short time. I used to try my absolute hardest to not wear black shoes. It's not because I did not like them nor wanted to be so different, but more so wanted to be adventurous and see what I could conjure up with shoes that were not 'safe' and 'easy.' But since moving to the capitol city of gray skies (where it might go from rainy to sunny 5 times in one day), I have noticed myself gravitating towards these lovely loafers, more than once within the same week. Call me a maniac, but I try to not repeat shoes within the same week. But with these 'Miro' loafers by Septieme Largeur, I actually enjoy wearing black. I actually love this shoe in every color that it comes in. It just has such a lovely shape. I think that the blue version will be next....and then maybe suede!

Shoes: Miro by Septieme Largeur
Waistcoat: H&M
Tie: Stefano Ricci
Shirt: Primark
Trousers: H&M

The Great Divide - Nice Suits & Junk Shoes

Picture: Gaziano & Girling 'Hanly'

I have always been a very observant person, particularly when it came to one's attire. Like many people have been so bold to claim (even myself), 'you can tell about a person based on his outfit,' and in my opinion, particularly when it comes to his shoes. This is precisely why many interviews end in a matter of seconds. Because your appearance, whether you know it or not, speaks wonders about not only who you are, but also how you will be.

Before I ever came to England, as many people may think about what they might see (sartorially), I thought of well-dressed gentlemen, three-piece suits, tweed, heavy brogues, cravats etc. I thought that I would see a bunch of well-dressed English gentlemen, particularly on Savile Row. But sadly, things have changed here, as they have in America, in Italy and most likely, all over the world. The younger generation tend not to appreciate putting all of the pieces of their wardrobe puzzle together, as thoughtfully or as elegantly as their grandfathers did. While I have my own theories on why this may be, it is beginning to speak wonders as the age of cheap shoes and companies knocking off others is growing bigger and more powerful. Hence, why Kurt Geiger owns either Selfridges or Harrods entire shoe floor (think Nordstrom with more shoes), and stocks cheap shoes, like the one below, at a place that sells luxury clothing.

Because of this naive generalization that I had, I am always looking at men's outfits, particularly at their feet, hoping to catch a glimpse of greatness. And I must say, that I have definitely seen some people that stacked up as some of the sharpest dressers that I have yet to see, but sadly I have also seen some of the worst. The biggest discrepancy here, especially with these young gentleman, is that they could not care less about their shoes. They wear these absolute rubbish, cheap shoes and pair them with their nice (or decent) suits. It's the most contradictory thing that I have ever seen. I mean, look at the difference between the top pic and the one directly above. Do you think that the second shoe should be paired with any suit above 500 GBP or any suit at all? It's a glued on rubber (or some sort of cheap composite material) sole that looks awful and even makes your expensive suit look bad. Granted, I know that everyone does not have the money to go out and get G&G's or Edward Green's, but there are other alternatives that are much more cost-conscious but will still leave you looking presentable, like Loake or Herring.

The good snob that I am, I asked three of my friends at work to be guinea pigs for my blog post and they so fortunately agreed. Therefore I have put them in order of worst to best (up to down) in how I find their sartorial knowledge of pairing expensive suits with shoes. Luckily one of my better friends (good 'ol Colin, above) at work is not so sensitive and allowed me to use him as an example of someone who just a) abuses his shoes, b) has the cheapest shoes ever and c) wears them EVERYDAY!!! I always give him a hard time, saying that if he is going to be working on a street like Savile Row, then he should not only get better shoes but also take better care of them. I mean if I walked into a store like Gieves & Hawkes, I would not feel that I could take any advice from a guy who shoes were just simply thrashed. A well-dressed gentleman, needs to be a well-dressed gentleman from head to toe. Yet, you find here in England, that Colin is the majority and my friends below are the minority and I just don't get it, as this used to be a country where the majority of men were sharp from top to bottom.

 

Asking my friend above why he thought many people shirked out on their shoes, he told me that because many feel they shouldn't spend a lot of money on something that they are going to be using to walk on concrete. What's funny about this, is it is precisely why you should invest in a good pair of shoes. Because concrete is hard and is not natural to the human body for walking, and therefore the support system in our body needs to be properly held. The only way to come close to doing this is with good shoes. Shitty one's don't provide anything but a cheap price tag and a bad look. In my opinion, it's because people just aren't really educated anymore in the ways of appreciating one's attire. Used to be that men would sit down every night and brush their nice leather shoes, to remove all of the dirt and dust. It would surprise me now if most men just kick off their shoes and throw them into the closet for the next day. But why? Why spend all of your money on your suit and just leave yourself looking like a fool with your $100 shoes???

Shoes Of The Week - Saint Crispins

When I first got into the shoe industry (selling shoes at Nordstrom), I used to hate loafers that had kilties on them, especially when they were paired with tassels. It was simply a bombardment of materiel that overshadowed the shoe itself, especially since they tended to be on those really low-cut loafers that you find popular in the States. It was until Church's came out with their vintage line and paired a kilty with a proper shoe (model: Kaber) that I began to like them. Now you see them popping up everywhere, and it's almost become the trendy thing to do in the shoe industry. And why not? It offers something unique, can truly transform the look of a shoe, and is a nice testament to how shoes use to be back in the old days.

But when I saw this model above, by Saint Crispins, it completely confirmed my liking of the kilty, placed elegantly on a shoe. Everything about this model is right. All the proportions are dead-on, the length of the kilty is perfect, the strap is thin and elegant, and the brogue pattern is beautifully positioned in all the right places. I am actually filling with envy as I write this, because the more I look at this shoe, the more that I want it, and the more that I realize that I cannot afford it. So I will leave it at this and wish all a fantastic weekend!

Picture Courtesy Of: Leather Soul

Edward Green's & Three-Piece Suits: Part 2

A while back I wrote a post about how I have always wanted to own Edward Green shoes and a three-piece suit and the fact that since I was now in England (earning in the British pound) it should make it easier to acquire these two things. Well, I finally got them, as I am showing you today. The only problem is that the Edward Green's are not stamped Edward Green, but rather Gieves & Hawkes. But they were made by EG, so for now that will have to do, until I get a pair from the store or something. Aside from that little oversight, I am quite pleased to have been able to get what I have always wanted. Granted, getting a three-piece suit in the States would not have been that difficult but I am a picky guy and the only options out there were way above my pay grade. And let's be fair, the tailoring in the States in no where near what it is on Savile Row. So, me being the patient one that I tend normally not to be, worked out great in the end with this made-to-measure number. And now I just need to continue building up my three-piece and double-breasted suit wardrobe....!

Today's Favorites - Septieme Largeur Chelsea Boots

While I had originally wanted to wait until Friday to share these with all of you, I simply could not wait, as I am such a fan of them and sure that many of you will be too. They are hands-down the most beautiful chelsea boots that I have ever seen, no question! What's funny is that I have only now see this done, in this fashion. Weird too, because for something so simple, you would have thought that somebody else would have thought to create this. Which I am sure, that if you go back in time, they probably had done, but it's not something that I have seen any time recently. Nevertheless, these boots by Septieme Largeur, are the epitome of what I mean when I say 'classic with a twist.' They are such an elegant and simple boot, aka very classic. But they offer something that most chelsea boots don't: two-toned, multiple fabrics and a shorter gore area. The shorter gore area allows the boot to be more dressy, as the trousers will most likely not extend upwards enough to show the gore when someone is walking. I love them and cannot wait until I get a pair. The only question will be which color should I get?

What I Am Wearing

There are two pictures this time, because for some reason one has better clarity on the shoes, while the other one is better in the facial region. As you might see a trend in my pictures, I tend to wear a lot of waistcoats, especially in the summer. I really don't like my tie to be flailing around and therefore will usually wear something over it in order to keep it situated. In summer, it's waistcoats and in the winter it is light over-shirts, such as v-neck sweaters. It may be hard to tell, but I was in a pink and burgundy day. My shoes are my burgundy whole cuts that I made, and paired with a light pink shirt/burgundy tie combo. Light on dark for those who like to tell me that I don't wear this combo.

On that note, I wanted to let all of you know that I don't like to dress like everyone else. I don't try and be classic. I try to incorporate classic things into my outfits, but as usual like to put my spin on them. If I were to wear a light shirt with a solid dark tie all of the time, I would look like everyone else walking down the street or anyone who has read Mr. Flusser's 'Dressing The Man' book. But I don't like to follow the rules, I like to bend them and incorporate my own rules. Being unique means not doing what everyone else does, or what others think one should do.

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me
Trousers: H&M
Tie: Can't remember to be honest (will correct this later)
Socks: Banana Republic
Shirt: H&M
Waistcoat: H&M

Shoes -- Part 2: Style Names & Terminology -- Boots

As you many very well know, boots come in all shapes, sizes and styles. And even today they are ever-evolving, as I shall share an example (of something new and unique) with you either tomorrow or for my shoes of the week post that I usually do on Fridays. I was never a huge boot fan until I saw my first spat boot. After that, it was pure love. Now, I want every kind of style of boot in every colorway. I even had 3 of them made up for my first collection. Quite a bit for an introduction to the world. But as the days go on, I feel that boots are becoming increasing sought after, as the homogeneity of low-cut shoes (aka normal shoes) begins to bore many individuals. They therefore look to something else. And that something else is very likely to be a boot. 

Pictured Above & Below, Left: My own Gaziano & Girling 'Wigmore'

Balmoral Boots

Gaziano & Girling

Alfred Sargent

Crockett & Jones

Septieme Largeur

Balmoral boots are are definitely among my top favorites of all the boot options. Let's call them my adopted favorite. Adopted because the spat boot is my true favorite but considering the fact that they are very very hard to come by and will most likely run you a minimum of $1000, I have to say that for practical sake, the balmoral boot is what I prefer. What's nice about them is the fact that they are simply a dress boot. A boot that you can wear as if it was a shoe, i.e. with your suits. Not too many other boots can do that, because at first site you can easily tell that they are a boot. But with a balmoral boot, it looks like a shoe when your trousers are covering it. I feel that for this very reason, they have become increasingly popular in recent times, as people may be bored of wearing traditional shoes and are therefore opting for something a little different, and this being the perfect example.

Derby Boots

I can't say that this is the exact proper name for them, but this is what I like to call them. They are really just like a balmoral except the fact that they have open lacing. Just as beautiful too, as they allow for a more casual look. This pair above, by Edward Green is probably the nicest derby boot I have ever seen and I could definitely see myself in this everyday, paired with my jeans. Then again, I could easily see myself in all of the boots that I am putting here, especially since I come to think about it, I really don't own a pair of derby boots. Boots, in general, have definitely been something that I did not put much effort into getting, in the past. But now that I have amassed a huge collection of laced shoes, I think that I need build up my loafer and boot game.

Helm

Gaziano & Girling

Spat Boots

Jan Kielman

As I have mentioned a million times before, I believe that men dressed at their best during the Edwardian and Victorian eras. Clothing seemed to be appreciated so much more and elegance was something to uphold. And during those times, many men wore high cut boots, particularly spat and balmoral boots. I don't know why makers were inclined to make them then, but nowadays they are virtually unheard of in a ready-to-wear option. Maybe its because, today, men walk harder and are more aggressive in their nature, which makers feel that the buttons will therefore break too easily. This will then cause headaches for the customer with the broken buttons and in turn will lead to the manufacturers having to deal with those broken buttons. Whatever the case, it sure is sad that they are not more readily available.

Anthony Delos - Spat cover + shoe

Perfetto

Chukka Boots

Corthay; Picture via Leffot

Chukka boots are among the most versatile shoes in the shoe industry. If done right a chukka boot, such as the one picture above, can transition between jeans and suits within the same wear. The cleanliness of them, being that they tend to be stitch free on the vamp and toe area, allows for them to dressed up. But at the same time, the fact that they still are a boot gives it that automatic jean and casual appeal. Out of all of the shoes that I own, I am almost without a doubt that aside from my commuter shoe (which does not count), I have worn my chukkas more than anything. You just can't beat their versatility!


Whole Cut Boots

Septieme Largeur

This is the second time that I have seen this done before. The first time was by Japanese bespoke shoemaker, Imai Hiroki (pictured below). It's like an oxford version of a chukka boot. It's quite strange to see in picture, but they look really nice in person, as I was able to check out the last time that I was in Paris at the SL shop. My only concern with them is the ankle area and how it will feel with that whole piece of leather. But then again, it would most likely not be designed and selling if it was not comfortably wearable. They are pretty cool nonetheless. Being a whole cut fan weather it a laced shoe, loafer or boot, means that I have to like this one too! I just need to get my hands on a pair!

Septieme Largeur

Imai Hiroki

Septieme Largeur

Chelsea Boots

Ahh, the chelsea boot. Probably my least favorite boot, up until recently, which as I stated above will share with you on Friday. I don't know why I have never really been the biggest fan of them. I guess it's because I really see that gore as being too casual to be "nice." Don't get me wrong, a good chelsea boot is an amazing casual shoe, but it's tough to make them dressy. This Koji Suzuki model above is probably the nicest that I have ever seen. He seemed to make all of the proportions in just the right way, allowing for a sleek and dressy look. It may seem trivial, but I believe that for a chelsea boot, getting these proportions down right is much harder than it seems, at least to make the boot on the dressy side. Beatle boots are another form of chelsea boots except that they are cut much more lower. It became a style that was popularized by the rock group, The Beatles in the 1960's. They can also have a zipped side, but they are usually regarded to be a descendant of the chelsea boot. Beatle boot picture below by Corthay.

Jodhpur Boots

Rider Boot Co.

Originally used as a riding boot, the jodhpur boot has now been transformed to be one the coolest jeans boots ever. Not really that dressy due to the straps, I find them to be perfect as a great jean boot. There is something that is rugged and manly about them, even though they look nice and elegant. Another boot that I do not own, but will definitely be adding to the collection!

Barker Black

John Lobb via Leather Soul