Today's Favorites - Septieme Largeur Chelsea Boots

While I had originally wanted to wait until Friday to share these with all of you, I simply could not wait, as I am such a fan of them and sure that many of you will be too. They are hands-down the most beautiful chelsea boots that I have ever seen, no question! What's funny is that I have only now see this done, in this fashion. Weird too, because for something so simple, you would have thought that somebody else would have thought to create this. Which I am sure, that if you go back in time, they probably had done, but it's not something that I have seen any time recently. Nevertheless, these boots by Septieme Largeur, are the epitome of what I mean when I say 'classic with a twist.' They are such an elegant and simple boot, aka very classic. But they offer something that most chelsea boots don't: two-toned, multiple fabrics and a shorter gore area. The shorter gore area allows the boot to be more dressy, as the trousers will most likely not extend upwards enough to show the gore when someone is walking. I love them and cannot wait until I get a pair. The only question will be which color should I get?

Shoes -- Part 2: Style Names & Terminology -- Boots

As you many very well know, boots come in all shapes, sizes and styles. And even today they are ever-evolving, as I shall share an example (of something new and unique) with you either tomorrow or for my shoes of the week post that I usually do on Fridays. I was never a huge boot fan until I saw my first spat boot. After that, it was pure love. Now, I want every kind of style of boot in every colorway. I even had 3 of them made up for my first collection. Quite a bit for an introduction to the world. But as the days go on, I feel that boots are becoming increasing sought after, as the homogeneity of low-cut shoes (aka normal shoes) begins to bore many individuals. They therefore look to something else. And that something else is very likely to be a boot. 

Pictured Above & Below, Left: My own Gaziano & Girling 'Wigmore'

Balmoral Boots

Gaziano & Girling

Alfred Sargent

Crockett & Jones

Septieme Largeur

Balmoral boots are are definitely among my top favorites of all the boot options. Let's call them my adopted favorite. Adopted because the spat boot is my true favorite but considering the fact that they are very very hard to come by and will most likely run you a minimum of $1000, I have to say that for practical sake, the balmoral boot is what I prefer. What's nice about them is the fact that they are simply a dress boot. A boot that you can wear as if it was a shoe, i.e. with your suits. Not too many other boots can do that, because at first site you can easily tell that they are a boot. But with a balmoral boot, it looks like a shoe when your trousers are covering it. I feel that for this very reason, they have become increasingly popular in recent times, as people may be bored of wearing traditional shoes and are therefore opting for something a little different, and this being the perfect example.

Derby Boots

I can't say that this is the exact proper name for them, but this is what I like to call them. They are really just like a balmoral except the fact that they have open lacing. Just as beautiful too, as they allow for a more casual look. This pair above, by Edward Green is probably the nicest derby boot I have ever seen and I could definitely see myself in this everyday, paired with my jeans. Then again, I could easily see myself in all of the boots that I am putting here, especially since I come to think about it, I really don't own a pair of derby boots. Boots, in general, have definitely been something that I did not put much effort into getting, in the past. But now that I have amassed a huge collection of laced shoes, I think that I need build up my loafer and boot game.

Helm

Gaziano & Girling

Spat Boots

Jan Kielman

As I have mentioned a million times before, I believe that men dressed at their best during the Edwardian and Victorian eras. Clothing seemed to be appreciated so much more and elegance was something to uphold. And during those times, many men wore high cut boots, particularly spat and balmoral boots. I don't know why makers were inclined to make them then, but nowadays they are virtually unheard of in a ready-to-wear option. Maybe its because, today, men walk harder and are more aggressive in their nature, which makers feel that the buttons will therefore break too easily. This will then cause headaches for the customer with the broken buttons and in turn will lead to the manufacturers having to deal with those broken buttons. Whatever the case, it sure is sad that they are not more readily available.

Anthony Delos - Spat cover + shoe

Perfetto

Chukka Boots

Corthay; Picture via Leffot

Chukka boots are among the most versatile shoes in the shoe industry. If done right a chukka boot, such as the one picture above, can transition between jeans and suits within the same wear. The cleanliness of them, being that they tend to be stitch free on the vamp and toe area, allows for them to dressed up. But at the same time, the fact that they still are a boot gives it that automatic jean and casual appeal. Out of all of the shoes that I own, I am almost without a doubt that aside from my commuter shoe (which does not count), I have worn my chukkas more than anything. You just can't beat their versatility!


Whole Cut Boots

Septieme Largeur

This is the second time that I have seen this done before. The first time was by Japanese bespoke shoemaker, Imai Hiroki (pictured below). It's like an oxford version of a chukka boot. It's quite strange to see in picture, but they look really nice in person, as I was able to check out the last time that I was in Paris at the SL shop. My only concern with them is the ankle area and how it will feel with that whole piece of leather. But then again, it would most likely not be designed and selling if it was not comfortably wearable. They are pretty cool nonetheless. Being a whole cut fan weather it a laced shoe, loafer or boot, means that I have to like this one too! I just need to get my hands on a pair!

Septieme Largeur

Imai Hiroki

Septieme Largeur

Chelsea Boots

Ahh, the chelsea boot. Probably my least favorite boot, up until recently, which as I stated above will share with you on Friday. I don't know why I have never really been the biggest fan of them. I guess it's because I really see that gore as being too casual to be "nice." Don't get me wrong, a good chelsea boot is an amazing casual shoe, but it's tough to make them dressy. This Koji Suzuki model above is probably the nicest that I have ever seen. He seemed to make all of the proportions in just the right way, allowing for a sleek and dressy look. It may seem trivial, but I believe that for a chelsea boot, getting these proportions down right is much harder than it seems, at least to make the boot on the dressy side. Beatle boots are another form of chelsea boots except that they are cut much more lower. It became a style that was popularized by the rock group, The Beatles in the 1960's. They can also have a zipped side, but they are usually regarded to be a descendant of the chelsea boot. Beatle boot picture below by Corthay.

Jodhpur Boots

Rider Boot Co.

Originally used as a riding boot, the jodhpur boot has now been transformed to be one the coolest jeans boots ever. Not really that dressy due to the straps, I find them to be perfect as a great jean boot. There is something that is rugged and manly about them, even though they look nice and elegant. Another boot that I do not own, but will definitely be adding to the collection!

Barker Black

John Lobb via Leather Soul

Today's Favorites - Crockett & Jones

When I first saw all of these pictures, I could not believe my eyes! Not because Crockett & Jones does not make nice shoes, but they are usually on the relatively conservative side. If you walk by their shop in the Burlington Arcade in London, you will see a bombardment of black, brown and tan, with a small hint of burgundy somewhere in the trenches, but NEVER have I seen green chelsea boots and blue saddle shoes. It makes me wonder if these, like some of G&G's factory shoes, are for another market, such as Japan and the Far East?  Nevertheless, I was very impressed when I saw them, and I think that I gave C&J a couple of extra points in my book of cool shoe brands. The shame is that I will probably never see these in the flesh, as I truly believe that they will not hit the UK (nor US for that matter) market. And because of that, I still think that when I go to Japan for the first time, it's going to be like a kid going to Disneyland, with shoes everywhere in blue's, green's, red's etc.

Shoes Of The Week - Carreducker One Off's

 

There is a leather factory in Northampton, called Crack's (for short), which is considered the haven for acquiring leather in this country. And apparently, as you can see by the leather at hand, sometimes you can find some unique and interesting stuff. Now for some of you, this might not matter, but unfortunately this hide here, was extremely limited and just happened to get entirely purchased by Deborah Carre, who made these chelsea boots for herself. And when I saw it for the first time, I was thoroughly impressed, as it looked somewhat exotic, yet it wasn't, which I prefer, but also had this sequin looking print on it. I thought, I want a pair too! But being a snob, I could not justify making the same pair that someone else I know owns, and potentially wearing it on the same day as them. That would be a no-no. So....I managed to get a skin for myself, wheeling and dealing with Deborah, and decided that after I make my shoes, from my own design, that I would make this leather in a whole cut, as I think that it looks lovely when it is stitching-free. But as sad as it is, I am still chelsea boot free, and have been desperately wanting one, as I think that they make a fantastic jean shoe! 

Enjoy the weekend,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Shoes Of The Week

Lately, I feel like I have been putting a lot of crazy colored shoes from French and Japanese makers on my blog and representing just a certain sect of the shoe industry. When, in fact, I am a lover of all shoes and happen to really like simple, elegant pieces such as these two pairs from To Boot New York. What I particularly like about them are the rich cognac color that they come in, which in my opinion is damn near perfect for the ultimate jean compliment. In the perfect world (where my feet are not jacked up), I would wear leather soled shoes like these with my jeans, everyday. But unfortunately, my feet need a break every now and then, and I have to throw on some Nike's or Vans or whatever that has soft squishy soles, just to give my feet a little EVA/soft rubber cushioning (sometimes my self-pity ramble's on and on unconsciously, sorry).

But yes, these two pairs are great and I would love to own either one. In reality, they are two styles, that any shoe guy should have in the closet. They don't have to be in this color but a simple loafer as well as a nice chelsea boot are two things that deserve to be occupying shelf space in your house! If you are in the market currently and indecisive about a model, I would give my recommendations for either one of these! I believe that they are both currently found at Nordstrom.

Shoes Of The Week - World Premiere

 

Brought to you first by The Shoe Snob are these incredible new bespoke offerings in a collaboration between Carreducker and Gieves & Hawkes. As part of the Carreducker's move into the G&H shop on Savile Row, was a five shoe collaboration agreement between the two companies as a way to offer something that fit the feel of G&H but gave the bespoke uniqueness and creativity that the Carreducker duo display so often in the styles that they create. This is one of those 5 and so far, my favorite!

What I love about these boots (obviously besides the color) is the fact that such a simple idea, the middle seam, created something refreshingly different. Even though I love a nice, plain chelsea boot, they are hard to make different from each other. That being, a simple middle seam separates these boots from many of the others that you will find elsewhere. What else is great is the color swatch that they have available for their clients to choose from. Not only do they have a suede swatch with about 20 different colors but there is also a nubuck swatch, as well, that has another 20 different shades. So the options are endless....

P.S. While the boots look purple in some pictures, they are definitely not. They are some shade of blue that is quite unique but has purple tones to it. The second to last picture, below, gives the best example of the true color.