Today's Favorites - Lino Ieluzzi's Shoes

For those that don't know who Lino Ieluzzi is, he is the owner of the famous shop in Milan, called Al Balzar, as well as one of the more popular faces seen on The Sartorialist. I would have never thought to do a quick post on Mr. Ieluzzi, but at the request of a reader, I figured that I would give my two cents on his infamous contrasted cap-toe monk straps that he is known for wearing. What I can say, is that I always appreciate someone who wears something that is unique and differentiates them from the rest. But, as far as these colors go, I would probably would have chosen them in other combinations. Not to say that these two colors don't go well together, but just to say that they are definitely not my favorite. I do like them, however, and more so, appreciate Mr. Ieluzzi's style in general, as I believe that he has a way about him that could be described as bravado, but in a good way. So what I am getting at, is that I do give my thumbs up on these shoes, but would want them in a different color combination. Your thoughts??

The Perfect Winter Boot

Septieme Largeur

A few weeks ago, I did a post about the 5 Essential Shoes for Winter and listed that a heavy brogue boot would definitely be one of those shoes to get you through these cold months. What I did not realize then and just recently stumbled upon was the fact that there is another boot, not too far off from this, which I believe could be the ONE shoe (boot) that anyone would ever need for the winter season. That boot being, a light brogue boot with a leather sole, preferably as an oxford as seen here by Septieme Largeur. The reason that I did not think of this, is because you rarely see them. But after getting a pair and thinking about it, it makes perfect sense. Not only does it look good casually but can also be paired with the thicker suits that one tends to wear during the colder months.

As you can see, the features of the boot give it everything it needs to be as a dress shoe: slim sole, sleek last shape, normal heel height etc. The only thing that makes it casual would be the metal, ring eyelets (the bottom ones, as the trouser should always cover the top ones). But they are so nondescript that they create the perfect balance of being not too casual for pairing with suits, but just casual enough to make these boots look real good with a nice pair of jeans. The design, quite admirable, is something that I would have never thought of. And that's why I did not mind actually getting a pair, knowing that I would not put something like this into my first collection, and will now have to think about whether or not I will ever add it at all, for fear of having to give these away!

Edward Green (ladies) -- Leffot

Laszlo Vass

Rider Boot Co.

Perfetto

After wearing them a couple of times and thinking about their versatility, I realized that this very well could be my go-to winter shoe. It's dark, elegant but casual and can be paired with the majority of outfits that one could create, with the exception of fancy dress. That being, I figured that it's the perfect winter boot. Now as a second choice, as the oxford version is hard to find, I would have to say that the derby brogue boot is a good contender. I would not pair it with a suit but it makes a darn fine shoe for jeans and the likes of winter-type trousers such as moleskins and corduroys, just the things that I gravitate towards (as I am sure that you do too) once that weather gets so cold that I can feel it in my bones. And after re-evaluating my shoe collection, I see that oxford shoes are something that I do not really need to add any more of, and boots are something that I have far too little of. Good thing there will be 3 different boots in my first collection. I won't mind nicking a couple of pairs....

Alden

Edward Green -- Photo courtesy of Leffot

J.Fitzpatrick & Gaziano & Girling Collaboration

I don't know how many of you remember, but before I ever went to have my collection made up in Spain, I went to Tony Gaziano to learn how to make a pattern. He spent the day showing me using one of my very own designs. At first I thought that I would try and take another skill on board, but after seeing how intricate it can be and understanding that it would just add a few more years onto realizing my goals, I decided that I would leave it at that and maybe come to it at another point in life. But, that day was very integral to my knowledge in understanding why a pattern (and how it fits on the last) is so important. I realize that it is not just a shape that makes the shoe, but how the design (pattern) fits on that shape. How it compliments the curvature of the last. This is something that I am now struggling with in my own prototypes. Getting the pattern to fit the last, properly, is no easy feat, especially on your first round of making them. They usually need adjustments. 

Needless to say, this is the final result of my design. You may say, 'oh this is nothing unique,' but if you look carefully, I have extended the adelaide to follow the top line of the shoe, giving it sort of a 'wing-like' characteristic. As well as that, I have minimized the heel counter. I did that because I wanted to emphasize the flannel that I used, so that it would be the main focus of the shoe. And even though some might find these characteristics to be unpractical, I find them to be the refreshing difference to everything else that already exists.

As far as the construction of the shoe goes, allow me to explain. So after Tony and I (really just Tony) completed the pattern, we had one of the closers that he uses sew all of the pieces together. This proved to be a difficult request due to the nature of the fabric. Yet, after a struggle, he still managed to do so and ended doing a very good job on such a difficult piece. The intention was then for me to make the shoes myself, but after a couple of complications, including lack of time and the fragility of the upper, we decided to just have it made in the G&G factory on the DG70 last. And as a surprise, they ended up constructing it with the Deco standard of construction and finish, to give it more of that 'handmade' feel. So that being, the concoction that you see presented here is designed by myself conceptually (and on paper), with the pattern done by Mr. Tony Gaziano, and then made up by the wonderful workers at Gaziano & Girling. The only downfall to all of this, is that this shoe will unfortunately be a one-off, as the flannel used is far to delicate and difficult to put into mass production. But, the design will be something that I incorporate into my first collection.


(Just to reiterate for clarification, this shoe will not be available by either side, and in the future, the design will be made available by me, not G&G)

Business As Usual

Dear All,

It's 5:30am and I am about to be off for a quick one-day business trip. I am sorry that I did not get around to posting yesterday, but as usual my time was scarce. I can't really write much as I have to leave in 10 minutes but just did not want another day to go by without posting something. So, for another quick post, I will do my best to leave you with something that tempts the eyes and makes you want to come back tomorrow to see what's next!

Enjoy your Thursday!

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"


Picture: To the best of my knowledge, these are John Lobb

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Toe Shapes And One's Country

Crockett & Jones 'Edgeware'

Having been fortunate enough, it has been with pleasure that I have seen (and now lived in) a few different countries in my life. And what always seems to amaze me, is how a whole country can be influenced by the same thing i.e. dress in the same sort of manner. Obviously, you will have those that stand out on either end, being that there will be some who dress great and unique and others who seem to have just completely missed the memo on the simple rules of dressing. But what you do generally find, is that depending on where you come from, there will be a toe shape that seems to be favored by the majority of your culture's population. What's even funnier, is that the more that person is into his/her culture the less willing they are to break out and try something new (in the toe-shape world). For example, time and time again, have I seen older American men wanting a certain shape of shoe and if it was not available they would not look at anything else, not even try to see if it may look good.

The States

--Older Men (40+)

All of my years selling shoes in America,  I really began to understand just how much the older gentleman of the States love a big, fat, round-toed shoe. Now I am not talking about a round-toe like the one on my first prototype post, I am talking about one that has no elogation to it, nor any shape for that matter. One that is very symmetrical, just like a circle is. Don't get me wrong, I like a round-toe too, but at least one that has some character to it. It therefore comes as no surprise that the Allen Edmonds 'Park Avenue' and Cole Haan 'Pinch Tassel' (see below) are among the all-time top selling dress shoes in America.

Allen Edmonds

Cole Haan

--Younger Men (>40)

As I am a young American male, it gives me great displeasure to talk down upon my fellow breathren but when it comes to their choices in attire, I just cannot help myself. Simply put: we are among the worse dressers, especially when it comes to our shoes. The ugliest crazes have come out of the States: Skecher's Shape Ups, square-toe shoes, the boot brands Jo Ghost and Mark Nason, and last but not least, Steve Madden and Kenneth Cole (see below). Apart from the Shape Ups, the younger American generation embraced all of these atrocities. And to top it off, even after the trends have died they continue to wear many of these awful things, worst of all being the chunky square-toes. It's sad, very sad..... But I will say, that as bad as we can be, I do strongly believe that my generation (and those younger) are slowly but surely getting better and becoming more conscious of what it means to dress stylish as opposed to trendy.













 The UK

 --Older Men

The older men in the UK actually dress very well. Some of their trousers are a bit too baggy for my taste, but nonetheless, they look like gentleman and usually wear classic shoes. With these gentleman, you still find that a round-toe is preferred, but it is a round-toe done with elegance, as would be an old Church's (pre-Prada) or a classic Crockett & Jones. It has a lot more shape to it, not just something that looks like a semi-circle at the toe.

--Younger Men

The younger men in England fall into two categories: those who wear winklepickers and those who enjoy a nice British chisel-toe. Now, you will find that the latter of those two is definitely the minority and most younger men are trotting around in their decent suits but with shoes that they found at Office or Kurt Geiger. This bunch reminds me of a more refined version of the younger American men generation, where as they dress nicer but still wear crappy shoes that make them look clueless. But, there are a growing few who seem to have been passed down that generation of style from their fathers, of whom appreciate something a bit more shaped and elegant. This is the bunch making Crockett & Jones rich, and in my opinion is directly related to the creation of one of the most amazing lasts to have been made, the 348. (see below right and top of post)

Crockett & Jones

Italy/France

I can't really break down these into the two categories of younger versus older, because I believe that in general, you find that men from these countries (whether young or old) tend to lean towards the same thing: elongated shoes. The toe-shape can actually be any design (square, chisel, round, pointy) so long as there is a good amount of space between the end of your long toe versus the end of your shoe. This is a trait that can either be extremely elegant or some cases, extremely offensive. However, you will find that many of the men tend to dress on the more elegant side, whereby they manage to put things together that you would not have dared thought of, but do so in a manner that it is actually impressive. Only on rare occasion do you find the the oddball wearing something so long, it looks as if he was about to go skiing.

Silvan Sassetti

Altan Bottier

So Busy Lately.....!!!

Dear All,

Just wanted to apologize for the lack of writing lately, I have been incredibly swamped, with little to no spare time. I managed to write half of my long post (for Mondays) today, but as I was in Kettering, England the entire day, I did not get to finish the rest. I promise that I will finish it by tomorrow and get back to schedule. But just know that if you do not hear from me for an extended period of time, it's because I am working on getting my shoe line off of the ground, doing company stuff and all of the little tidbits that it involves. Thanks for all of your patience and more than anything, your readership loyalty. And just because I don't like posting without leaving a picture, I will drop a little sexy shoe below!

All the best,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Picture: A bespoke pattern of perfection by Gaziano & Girling

Shoes Of The Week - Saint Crispins

When I first saw this pair in one single color (posted here) I fell in love with them. But when I saw this pair, by Saint Crispins, in a multiple leather type two-tone, I was absolutely blown away. Time and time again, they make the exact thing that I feel needs to be more present in the shoe industry and it makes me smile to know that other makers/designers appear to be thinking the same thing. So, it comes as no surprise that this company continues to grow, having their shoes being carried at more and more stores around the world, all while they carry a price tag of around $2000. This particular shoe just might be one of my favorite models in circulation at the moment. Not only does it remind of what they used to wear back in the early 20th century, but represents shoes as a piece of art, because looking at this, I would not know whether to wear it or place it on my mantelpiece. Just joking...I would definitely rock them!

Pictures Courtesy Of: Leather Soul

5 Essential Shoes For Winter

Like in all seasons, there are certain shoes that you find yourself gravitating towards more so than others. As yesterday might have just marked one of the coldest days that England has seen this Autumn/Winter, I figured that I would give you all a chance to get a head start on your winter shoe collection by providing what I believe are the most essential shoes for your wardrobe. Granted, I can't expect each of you to be able to go out and buy all 5 of them, but owning at least 2-3 would be enough to get you through a cold winter season. I, myself, only own 2 out these 5, but am in definite need of a nice brogue boot. Only trouble is, I don't find many that I like.....except for the one pictured below!

Brown pebble grain with rubber sole

Shoes by: Septieme Largeur

The thing about pebble-grained shoes, is that the leather seems to be a lot more susceptible to adverse weather with respects to it's plain calfskin cousin. I can't really say why that is, but it's definitely harder to ruin a pair of pebble grains from rain or dirt. It just seems to withstand more abuse and because of that makes it the perfect shoe for Autumn/Winter, as the weather is often dreary and volatile, creating the need of a shoe that can tolerate the unpredictability that each day brings. 


Chukka Boot - dark brown suede with rubber sole

Boots by: Stefano Bemer

You simply can't go wrong with a good chukka boot. If you get the right model, not only can it get you through a rough winter season, but can also get you through the entire year, as I believe it to be one of the most versatile shoes in existence. But you want to make sure that you get the dark brown model, as a lighter shade will not be as tolerable to rain and stain. And while in reality I am no suede expert, from my personal experiences I can tell you that all one needs is a good suede brush and some suede renewal in order to keep their shoes going strong. I actually own the model above (in Tobacco) and in the 3 years that I have had it, it has seen more mileage than any other of my shoes yet still looks tip-top.


Black dress shoe

Shoes by: Koji Suzuki

This may seem terribly obvious, but sometimes obvious things need reminding. A good black dress shoe whether with a rubber sole or leather, will not only get you through winter, but could get you through everything else as well! In all honesty, I still don't own an all-black oxford, only my saddles (with the red) and my black loafers account for my black shoes. I keep thinking that I need one, even though I don't go to many events that require that sort of formality. So, for me saying this to all of you, it's also like I am saying it to myself as well. Because when that awful rainy day comes, you don't want to get caught outside with some brown shoes on, because they just might turn black from the staining of the rain. A quarter brogue, like the one above, is one of the best models around as it's versatility (from jeans to formal events) is second to none.


Heavy brogue boot

Boot by: Alfred Sargent

This is hands down the nicest brogue boot that I have ever seen. The detailing of the brogueing on the top leather is simply amazing. It's simple, yet beautiful and elegant. The shape is perfect. Not too bulky, not too slim, just right. When made as elegant yet masculine as this, a brogue boot can get you through most days. Obviously, you don't want to be wearing this with a suit, but to me, this is the ultimate jean (or casual trouser) boot. If you have this sitting in your closet this winter, I bet that you wouldn't think twice about what to grab when you need to pop out, whether to grocery store or out on the town. Boots like this, make the dreadful weather of Autumn/Winter seem pleasurable!

P.S.  -- AS, if you are reading this and feeling generous for Christmas, my size is a UK7 :-).


Navy suede loafers

Shoes By: John Lobb

While this is not entirely suede, nor entirely what I had in mind (as I cannot find anything else in my archive of pictures) it will still do for a solid navy suede loafer. Some of you might be thinking that a shoe like this belongs in Spring/Summer and while it would fit right in to those seasons, we also must remember that there are many days (depending on where you live) during the A/W that although might be bone-chilling cold have a beautiful clear sky with the sun out. On those days, a navy suede loafer fits right in. Don't forget that navy is still a dark color, and blends well with the tones that you find most people gravitating towards during those chilly months. So when you are feel sporty and casual and don't want to grab your sneakers (trainers), there is always the option of the ever-versatile navy suede loafer!

My First Prototype

As 'The Shoe Snob,' you can imagine that for my first prototypes, and collection for that matter, I am going to have some very high expectations. Well, 8 out of 13 of those prototypes came in the mail today. Some of them were 'bang on,' but sadly to say, some of them also left me quite disappointed to say the least. Now, I know that this is only the first round of prototypes (so I can't expect magic) and many of them will inevitably be adjusted, but as this dream has been 5 years in the making, you can imagine the type of anxiety that I am going through, especially when I have been telling the whole world about it. Needless to say, as my loyal blog readers, I am presenting to you (before anyone else!) one of my first prototypes.

Sadly for all of you, I am only going to show this one (for now), as some of the other ones are unique. And even though I don't intend to insult anyone of their integrity, I must be cautious as I know that there are other shoe companies who read my blog and would not want to see a design of mine released before my own shoes are. But as this may look like a classic shoe that you could find anywhere, you may have noticed that I have emphasized the stitching, providing 3 rows instead of the common 2. For me, it just accentuates the different pieces of the pattern and allows for one to wear it more casually, i.e. with a nice pair of fitted jeans. This model is nothing too unique, but then again, it's a classic with a slight twist and that is something that can't go wrong.

When all of the prototypes are finished, I promise that I will release them to all of you, as I know that like me, you too have been patiently waiting. Just know that I am working hard to get them out there and that I am being the biggest snob that I can, in order to bring you something unique, good looking, of good quality and of good price! So, please continue to bear with me as I finalize all of my prototypes into becoming a first collection that can wow the world....

By the way, please feel free to comment. The logo is not finalized, but I would appreciate some feedback on it.

Shoes Of The Week - Perfetto

Hands down, these are among the coolest boots/shoes that I have ever seen. Every single detail is bang-on, the styles are amazing and the mixtures of fabric with leather are extremely well-executed. The more that I see shoes that are either designed, or made by Japanese people, the more I feel that the Japanese are surely becoming the masters of shoes. I had never heard of this brand, Perfetto, but upon stumbling across them, I fell in love instantly. And what shoe love wouldn't? After researching a little, it seems that they were an up-and-comer at the last Pitti Uomo, which means that with cool shoes like this, we can expect to hopefully see much more of them as they get purchased by stores around the world. Granted many stores buy rubbish shoes, so maybe we won't, but nonetheless I believe that they will be successful. And believe it or not, this model above, is definitely an example of something that I would still buy, even when I have my own line.....

On that note, let me tell you that I will be getting 8 of my 13 samples on Monday, so be on the look out for a picture or two, for sneak-previews sake!

Majority of Pictures Courtesy Of: The Suitorial