The Next Big Trend: Colored Chukka Boots

Picture Courtesy of Septieme Largeur

Year after year, there are new trends in the shoe industry, some of which are great and some of which are crap. I believe that the next big one that you will start to see popping up from brand after brand, is colored chukka boots. Some companies have already started leading the way by bringing them out in their current collections, and others I know will soon follow. I happen to be quite excited about it, as I think that there aren't many better shoes options than a nice chukka boot, and colored suede just makes it all that more appealing in my opinion. I mean, even though I love my cigar suede ones, it gets a bit tiresome only being able to choose from the 57 shades of browns that you usually see them in. And who is to say that the dark green suede that you see done by Carmina (shown below) would not be just as versatile as it's brown alternative? If you are going to wear them with jeans or even khakis, that forest green is going to complement them beautifully!

Carmina, Picture Courtesy of Rugged Old Salt

Carmina, Picture Courtesy of The Armoury Blog

The more that I spend time in the shoe industry, and being constantly exposed to shoes and all of the different models, the more that I internally battle myself in deciding what my favorites are. One day it's a saddle shoe, next day it's a penny loafer, then a brogue etc. But the more that I do this, the more that I find myself truly liking chukka boots. Granted, I have always been a fan ever since Stefano Bemer gave me a pair and I wore it all over Italy (and everywhere else for that matter). That boot alone has given me such an appreciation for them, as I have experienced first hand the never-ending versatility of them. But I feel that I need to graduate from those, and jump into the next arena, possibly with a navy suede version, like the Septieme Largeur one pictured at the top. Coupled with a natural sole, that blue suede and any of them for that matter, would be the ideal knock around shoe, something that would be great for day to day wear but even have the ability to be smartened up when necessary.You simply can't beat that and I feel that it will be something that more and more people will start to recognize, which in turn will mean that more and more companies will start making them. Watch!

John Lobb

Saion

Corthay, Courtesy of Leffot

Corthay

While these shades only represent a small fraction of the possibilities that could be realized, its a nice step in the right direction. But what about a burgundy suede? A sea blue? Florence Purple? The possibilities are endless and there are so many opportunities to make something that is cool, eye-catching and more importantly unique... Can't say that it will be me, at least not in my first collection, but you can bet that I will aspire to come out with some burgundy or some crazy shade of blue, or maybe even gray. Gosh, I get excited just thinking about it! But in all seriousness, watch out, because I bet that this starts to grow like the plague, and by this upcoming fall and next spring/summer, you will see them everywhere! I don't know about you, but I look forward to it....

All by Septieme Largeur

On another note, things are progressing again after a small hiccup with my shoe line. After wearing my first set of trial fits I realized that my last was a bit on the wide side, not being as proportional as I had liked it to be, fitting more like a EX (or EE). I pretty much shaved off one of those E's and have been testing the results, of which I think look and feel better. Now that I have this out of the way, I simply need to work out the small details, make the entire collection and be on my way to getting them in the stores and on your feet! I appreciate all those who are still awaiting the release of them, and promise that you won't be let down!

Shoes Of The Week - Imai Hiroki Brogue Boots

The color red is so underutilized in the shoe industry, but can truly create some of the nicest pieces of footwear. Take these boots at top for example, they are absolutely amazing and are so due to their color. I mean, the black ones below are nice too but don't stand a chance when put next to red ones. I guess it's a tough color to get right though....too bright and no one would wear them, so you have to have some skills in leather coloring to give it more of this antiqued look, which helps to tone it down and make it a lot more versatile. But when you are able to do this, it truly makes a color that I believe to be better than most. Not only would these look amazing with jeans but would pretty much look amazing with anything really, at least in my point of view. And to top it off, there are not many boots that look better than a nice brogued one done right. Having a sole that's a bit thicker than your average dress shoe, but not so thick that it looks chunky, gives it just the right look to boost its versatility sky high. My hat is tipped to Mr. Imai Hiroki for this one!

Today's Favorites - Camouflage Patina by Septieme Largeur

For most of you that have read this blog before, you are probably familiar with the fact that personally, I am not a fan of camouflage, at least not on articles of clothing for the general public. But, I have to say that these are pretty damn cool. Not that I would ever wear them, because it's just not my thing, but I have to say that I definitely respect the artistry that went behind this. I talked to Mathieu (the gentleman who does the patinas for Septieme Largeur) about these and he said that it was just something that he wanted to do, in order to create a challenge for himself. And what a challenge to pick, as I can imagine that it was incredibly hard....but what a great job he did, as it looks as if it could almost be a print, but instead was done by hand. While I don't actually believe that these were for a customer, they do now represent what can be done, should you so choose to go a bit out of the ordinary. With this now in his bag of tricks, it would very much appear that Mathieu's skills seem to be progressing as time goes on and I now look forward to whatever he challenges himself with next...

What I Am Wearing

There is nothing like a nice brogue. A good one can literally get you through almost anything. And while mine is slightly on the more casual side, due to it being a boot and having those metal eyelets, it still does a good job of appeasing my outfits ranging from casual to smart (dress casual). However, I would not pair these with a suit, at least not 95% of them. A heavy flannel just might go nice with these, but that would vary upon the cloth, the cut and the eye of the beholder. Nevertheless, being The Shoe Snob, I am ashamed to admit that this is my only real brogue shoe (being close to a full). While I have others that are half or quarter brogues, I don't even truly have a real full-brogue in any of the standard colors (brown, black, tan or burgundy - just my one in green, but that doesn't count). Funny enough its my self-proclaimed most versatile shoe in the world, yet there isn't one in my closet. I guess that when I was making shoes, I got too caught up in trying to do things that were unique, so much so that I pretty much ruled out making at least one basic. Oh well, soon enough I will have one in each color!

Shoes: Septieme Largeur
Jacket: Pete Werth
Trousers: H&M
Jumper: Banana Republic
Shirt: Primark
Knit Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

Balmoral Boot Porn

I was never quite the biggest fan of pairing black with a burgundy and/or an oxblood/merlot type of color, but I must admit that the more that I studied this prototype of mine (for wear-testing), the more that the combination of colors grew on me. Having friends and colleagues try it on, wearing jeans, suits, dress casual trousers etc., the more that I felt that these colors actually go quite nice together. It never presented itself as being too dressy for one thing, yet too casual for another. Meaning, that when my colleague tried it on with his navy suit, I felt that it complemented the outfit quite well and when tried on underneath a pair of jeans, it happened to smarten up the outfit. That being, while it's contrast is subtle and not in the least ostentatious, it still provides a great deal of pleasure to the eye, overcoming the monotony of two colors too close in tone. I am still not sure if this will be a colorway that I offer for my first collection, but nevertheless, I am now pleased to have at least had it made up, which gave me the chance to absorb its subtle yet elegant contrast....

Today's Favorites - Rider Boot Co.

As you can imagine, I have a collection of images that must range in the thousands and because of that, it can become quite difficult remembering what I have and what I want to put up. I am constantly just browsing the net, saving dozens of pictures at a time, of all of the beautiful and unique shoes that I come across. Because of that, and having so darn many, I have to literally just peruse around my folders looking for inspiration for each post. But the nice thing about it is that it's almost like finding little treasures that you forgot about, like a $20 in your trouser pocket! So when I came to these mid-height jodhpur boots by Rider Boot Co., I was quite excited, as I find their design to be truly lovely. To me, the best jodhpur boots leave the face of the boot clean looking, not having the strap coming around it, as these don't. That way, you get the lovely and undisturbed profile  of a blank canvas from toe to top of boot. I think that the other detail that really attracted me to these was the fact that the strap has a lovely curve at the bottom of it, instead of just being straight and boring. It flows with the ambiance that the stitching, around the rest of the boot, creates. Nothing has a sharp angle, it's all fluid. That, to me, is lovely. It's all in the detail....as always!

Shoes Of The Week - Alexandre Portejoie

As much as you don't see burgundy shoes as often as I would like to, I can tell you that burgundy boots are even far less common, yet to me are ever so more appealing than what you do actually see on the shelves. This model here is by a French shoe designer/maker, named Alexandre Portejoie, who is quite known for his out-of-this-world creations. This boot, while being still a bit on the 'forward' side with its pointy toe and decoration, is one of his tamest creations, believe it or not. And what drives me to it, aside from the lovely color created from the patina, is the big, heavy duty sole that it has been made with. You see, while I don't like bulky shoes (or bulky soles for that matter), I much less like the idea of it being snowy or real rainy out and having to wear some Red Wing boot to save my shoes from being destroyed. That being, a beautiful boot like this with a nice, heavy sole on it (still cut to look dressy) allows one to not only face that awful weather but be able to do so in smart clothing without having to look like a hiker in his rugged boots....

First it was colors....Now it will be boots!

For those of you that have been long time readers of the blog, you will know that I have been a big advocate of seeing more abnormal coloring in footwear. Back when I started this blog (in Feb. 2010), I made some predictions indicating that within a year or two, colored shoes (outside of brown and black) were going to be a lot more prevalent in the industry. 2011 marked a big push for that actually coming true. More and more brands were coming out with shoes that did not really fit their overall historical image (at least not in my opinion), such as the shoes made by Edward Green for Hardy Amies (shown above & below). Two quintessential English brands, rooted in the idea of what it means to be a British gentleman, came out with a collaboration that not only blew my mind aesthetically, but also in the sense that for me, it was almost like stepping a bit outside of their boundary to create something a bit more fun and eclectic. And that was the beauty about it....brands that were evolving with the times, creating something that might be a bit out of their norm but beautiful and timeless nonetheless!

Picture Below: Edward Green for Hardy Amies (courtesy of The Shoe Buff)

And while that trend (colors) has come, and will hopefully be here to stay, the next big thing that I think will populate the shelves throughout the year (and next) will be dress boots. There used to be a time --think Victorian/Edwardian eras-- where boots, such as a nice balmoral boot, were the norm and no one wore low cut shoes, as we do now. Granted, I know that this happened to be the case for more of a practical purpose rather than personal choice (due to the streets being solely dirt and therefore lacking pavement). But even though that was the case, I found this look to be quite a bit more intriguing....and elegant. Who is to say that a dress boot can't be just as elegant as a low cut shoe when paired with a suit? I quite enjoy wearing my Gaziano & Girling 'Wigmore' with either a flannel suit or my three-piece, and would even pair other one's (if I had any) so long as the boot was an elegant shape that compliments dress attire. And I could be wrong, but I think more and more people are starting to think like this...

Boots by Corthay

Boots by George Cleverley, Picture Courtesy of: Leather Soul

Everything in the footwear and clothing industry seems to always reinvent itself in some form or another, whether it be toe shapes, colors used, type of style like brogues, boots etc and in my time I have not seen as much enthusiasm for dress boots as I do now. But I don't feel that we are quite at the peak of it all. Soon, if not F/W 2012 or 2013, you will see far more boots offered in collections, more color combinations presented, and if everything goes according to my plan, more materials other than leather being used. And the hope, for me, is that more of you will jump on board and desire these boots. Because, it's time for a nice change, a time to see more elegant boots presented and people wearing them proudly! And even if you go from a boring black cap-toe oxford shoe, to a boring black cap-toe oxford boot, it will be a step in the right direction!

Boots by: Riccardo Bestetti

Wholecut Mid-Top boots by: Imai Hiroki

Shoes Of The Week - Lodger Jodhpur Boots

It's always nice being able to find a shoe that it is truly unique in it's design. I take that back, it is truly amazing to find something that is unique in it's design and looks great. I see a lot of crap design that tried way too hard to go outside of the box to create something unique and ends up becoming something that looks alien or along those lines. But this jodhpur boot here, by Lodger, is simply amazing. I have never actually owned a jodhpur boot myself but have always appreciated them. I even incorporated one within my collection because I know that they are a popular model here in England, but I do not believe that I have ever seen one that I like more than this one. It's so simple in it's look and thought, yet so intriguing and unique. Not only the fact that this jodhpur is created on a derby style, but the fact that it crosses in the front and even more unique, has a stitching (seam) that goes all the way back to the middle of the heel, which is virtually unheard of in classical pattern making. But you put all of these things together and it creates something that is beautiful and very impressive.....I would have a pair of these in every color!

Shoes Of The Week - Crockett & Jones Boot

It's funny because the last time I was in Spain, working out my prototypes, I was thinking of the different combinations of colors/materials to use on my balmoral boots and a medium brown paired with a snuff suede was precisely what I had in mind, until I saw these boots by Crockett & Jones..... While my boot is quite different, aesthetically in shape and pattern, and using similar colors is by no means copying, being the weird individual that I am, I am now having second thoughts about using these colors as I do not want have something that is too similar to someone else's shoe/boot. At least not for my first collection....but then again, I have a couple of months to think about it and when my prototypes are all finalized, I am planning on giving all of you a chance to influence the different color options that my shoes will come in.

But anyway, back to the subject at hand. When I saw these, I was pleased nonetheless, not only because I like them and enjoy shining shoes that I like, but also because these shoes come from an individual that appreciates nice shoes and it always makes me happy to meet people like this. This is already the second pair of his that I have put on the blog and am sure that there will be more to come...

I won't be posting until at least Sunday, so I wanted to wish all of you not only a fantastic weekend but a wonderful New Years!! Enjoy the festivities......and until 2012!

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Shoes Of The Week - Alfred Sargent Special Make Up

Following a survey on Style Forum, online shoe store 'A Fine Pair of Shoes' created (based on popular vote & in conjunction with Alfred Sargent) what was considered to be the perfect brogue boot. While I can't say that I agree that this model is the 'perfect' brogue boot, I can say that I do like them very much. Probably the thing that I like most (outside of my obvious two-tone obsession) is the brogue design that leads from the bottom part of the facing/quarter all the way to the back end of the shaft bit. While this boot would be a great option come Spring/Summer, I just can't say that it's perfect for the fact that it cannot be worn during the cold months, for fear of thrashing that lovely light suede during a wet day. Nevertheless, it's a beautiful model that I am sure will become a great seller. If you are interested in this boot, the nice gentleman at AFPS informed me that they are currently available via Special Order at info@afinepairofshoes.co.uk and are going for £420.

I will try and post again sometime this weekend, but if I do not get a chance, there might be a little while before you here from me as I am taking a trip back to Spain in order to sort out some of my other prototypes!

I hope that everyone has a fantastic weekend.

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Today's Favorites - Carmina Balmoral Boot

I have never actually had the pleasure of holding a pair of Carmina shoes in my hands, but I have always appreciated what I have seen in pictures and all of the nice things that most people have to say about them. While they tend to not stray too far outside of classic styles, I did notice this pair on Ethan Desu's blog a little while ago and was quite taken aback by the uniqueness of them. There was no description of what they were for, but I could only imagine that they must have been an MTO, as this is not a combination that you see often, especially in RTW circulation. And even though it did not make me say 'WOW' for some unknown reason, I feel that I would love to have them and would gravitate towards them more than I think. Something about them really captures me, but in a way that is almost indescribable. The seem to have these little subtle qualities that make them really stand apart, but only after 3 or 4 glances do you notice them. I feel that they come up higher on your leg than your average pair, the stitching along the facing is not quite straight but not quite as curved either when it comes to the edge of the vamp/quarter, and that the mouth of the boot (above ankle) is a lot smaller than most openings. And all of these details make me think that this is truly inspired by what they used to wear in the late 19th, early 20th centuries.... I applaud the person that designed them...Well done!

The Perfect Winter Boot

Septieme Largeur

A few weeks ago, I did a post about the 5 Essential Shoes for Winter and listed that a heavy brogue boot would definitely be one of those shoes to get you through these cold months. What I did not realize then and just recently stumbled upon was the fact that there is another boot, not too far off from this, which I believe could be the ONE shoe (boot) that anyone would ever need for the winter season. That boot being, a light brogue boot with a leather sole, preferably as an oxford as seen here by Septieme Largeur. The reason that I did not think of this, is because you rarely see them. But after getting a pair and thinking about it, it makes perfect sense. Not only does it look good casually but can also be paired with the thicker suits that one tends to wear during the colder months.

As you can see, the features of the boot give it everything it needs to be as a dress shoe: slim sole, sleek last shape, normal heel height etc. The only thing that makes it casual would be the metal, ring eyelets (the bottom ones, as the trouser should always cover the top ones). But they are so nondescript that they create the perfect balance of being not too casual for pairing with suits, but just casual enough to make these boots look real good with a nice pair of jeans. The design, quite admirable, is something that I would have never thought of. And that's why I did not mind actually getting a pair, knowing that I would not put something like this into my first collection, and will now have to think about whether or not I will ever add it at all, for fear of having to give these away!

Edward Green (ladies) -- Leffot

Laszlo Vass

Rider Boot Co.

Perfetto

After wearing them a couple of times and thinking about their versatility, I realized that this very well could be my go-to winter shoe. It's dark, elegant but casual and can be paired with the majority of outfits that one could create, with the exception of fancy dress. That being, I figured that it's the perfect winter boot. Now as a second choice, as the oxford version is hard to find, I would have to say that the derby brogue boot is a good contender. I would not pair it with a suit but it makes a darn fine shoe for jeans and the likes of winter-type trousers such as moleskins and corduroys, just the things that I gravitate towards (as I am sure that you do too) once that weather gets so cold that I can feel it in my bones. And after re-evaluating my shoe collection, I see that oxford shoes are something that I do not really need to add any more of, and boots are something that I have far too little of. Good thing there will be 3 different boots in my first collection. I won't mind nicking a couple of pairs....

Alden

Edward Green -- Photo courtesy of Leffot