Shoes Of The Week - Imai Hiroki Brogue Boots

The color red is so underutilized in the shoe industry, but can truly create some of the nicest pieces of footwear. Take these boots at top for example, they are absolutely amazing and are so due to their color. I mean, the black ones below are nice too but don't stand a chance when put next to red ones. I guess it's a tough color to get right though....too bright and no one would wear them, so you have to have some skills in leather coloring to give it more of this antiqued look, which helps to tone it down and make it a lot more versatile. But when you are able to do this, it truly makes a color that I believe to be better than most. Not only would these look amazing with jeans but would pretty much look amazing with anything really, at least in my point of view. And to top it off, there are not many boots that look better than a nice brogued one done right. Having a sole that's a bit thicker than your average dress shoe, but not so thick that it looks chunky, gives it just the right look to boost its versatility sky high. My hat is tipped to Mr. Imai Hiroki for this one!

Unique Shoe Designs

Shoe Above: J.FitzPatrick

When talking about designing shoes, I commonly hear the expression, "Everything under the sun has been done." And while I generally tend to agree with it (on a grand scale), I still believe that there are little tweaks that can be done to a shoe, here and there, that will minutely (and yet immensely) separate it from all of the rest. For instance, the shoe above which is another one of my prototypes, has a penny strap that extends all the way back to the heel. This was something that I had never seen before, yet had always wondered what it might look like, being that I like to use multiple materials in my shoes. I wanted to be able to mix it up somehow, having the strap be a different material than the rest of the shoe. At first, I wanted to hold this close to my chest, as it was a unique design and did not want anyone ripping me off before I could release my line, but as I have been blabbing for 2 years now about getting this line off of the ground, and doing so has been slower than I had anticipated, I couldn't help but show this to all of you to let you know that things are truly still in the motions.....slowly but surely!

Clearly I am not the only one that has done a unique design. Almost every maker does one in some way or another whether it is with a row of stitching and how it is positioned, the colors and/or materials that they may use, or how one might change the aesthetics of one of the pieces of the pattern (cap/quarter/vamp etc.). You will find it in the subtle details that will define that makers style. Sometimes these things can be hard to spot, sometimes they are quite obvious. Nevertheless, they are always nice for me (so long as it's not overbearingly ostentatious) as it then represents a new way to do a shoe.... I remember back in 2006, the first time that I ever saw a Gaziano & Girling shoe, in Robb Report magazine. I can't say for sure, but I think it was either the Gable or the Regent, and it was the first time that I had ever seen that pointed (^-shaped) toe cap. Back then, I wasn't so knowledgeable about shoes, as it was really the beginning point for me in the fine footwear industry, so you can imagine how blown away I was to see something so unique when all I had previously known was the Allen Edmonds Park Avenue, as it was the end-all-be-all shoe in America. And even though I can't pinpoint the exact model that it was, the moment was still so vivid for me, as it represented the day that I truly chose to go after my dreams, telling myself that I wanted to emulate G&G by making good quality shoes that stood out from the rest (in terms of design).

Corthay - Unique stitch design on facing & bottom hole punch

Jan Kielman - Unique stitching leading to back of heel

Imai Hiroki - oxford like slip-on

Marc Guyot - stitching and strap unique

Along with dress boots being something that I predict will be big in the next year or two, I also predict that you will see more and more makers trying their hardest to come out with designs that separate themselves from the rest. Clearly this is obvious, because you could not just come out with a line doing shoes that simply look like everyone else's (and be successful) but more in the way that designers/makers, I feel, will more and more try and give little twists to existing classics. Classics are classics for a reason but that does not mean that they are already perfected....little minute details could make a classic better than it already is...of course, this will always be in the humble opinion of the eye of the beholder. But nevertheless, for me, it is always extremely fascinating to see how a designer interprets a shoe with his unique design. That my friends is (to me) the most interesting thing about the shoe industry....seeing how interpretations differ. Hence the reason why each country has their own individual look when it comes to their shoes!

Saint Crispins - All around design is unique

Saion - design on facing/coloring the sole

J.M. Weston - all around design, many things mixed together

Altan Bottier - Point on tongue of shoe

First it was colors....Now it will be boots!

For those of you that have been long time readers of the blog, you will know that I have been a big advocate of seeing more abnormal coloring in footwear. Back when I started this blog (in Feb. 2010), I made some predictions indicating that within a year or two, colored shoes (outside of brown and black) were going to be a lot more prevalent in the industry. 2011 marked a big push for that actually coming true. More and more brands were coming out with shoes that did not really fit their overall historical image (at least not in my opinion), such as the shoes made by Edward Green for Hardy Amies (shown above & below). Two quintessential English brands, rooted in the idea of what it means to be a British gentleman, came out with a collaboration that not only blew my mind aesthetically, but also in the sense that for me, it was almost like stepping a bit outside of their boundary to create something a bit more fun and eclectic. And that was the beauty about it....brands that were evolving with the times, creating something that might be a bit out of their norm but beautiful and timeless nonetheless!

Picture Below: Edward Green for Hardy Amies (courtesy of The Shoe Buff)

And while that trend (colors) has come, and will hopefully be here to stay, the next big thing that I think will populate the shelves throughout the year (and next) will be dress boots. There used to be a time --think Victorian/Edwardian eras-- where boots, such as a nice balmoral boot, were the norm and no one wore low cut shoes, as we do now. Granted, I know that this happened to be the case for more of a practical purpose rather than personal choice (due to the streets being solely dirt and therefore lacking pavement). But even though that was the case, I found this look to be quite a bit more intriguing....and elegant. Who is to say that a dress boot can't be just as elegant as a low cut shoe when paired with a suit? I quite enjoy wearing my Gaziano & Girling 'Wigmore' with either a flannel suit or my three-piece, and would even pair other one's (if I had any) so long as the boot was an elegant shape that compliments dress attire. And I could be wrong, but I think more and more people are starting to think like this...

Boots by Corthay

Boots by George Cleverley, Picture Courtesy of: Leather Soul

Everything in the footwear and clothing industry seems to always reinvent itself in some form or another, whether it be toe shapes, colors used, type of style like brogues, boots etc and in my time I have not seen as much enthusiasm for dress boots as I do now. But I don't feel that we are quite at the peak of it all. Soon, if not F/W 2012 or 2013, you will see far more boots offered in collections, more color combinations presented, and if everything goes according to my plan, more materials other than leather being used. And the hope, for me, is that more of you will jump on board and desire these boots. Because, it's time for a nice change, a time to see more elegant boots presented and people wearing them proudly! And even if you go from a boring black cap-toe oxford shoe, to a boring black cap-toe oxford boot, it will be a step in the right direction!

Boots by: Riccardo Bestetti

Wholecut Mid-Top boots by: Imai Hiroki

The Fashionable Hiking Boot

Merrell x Collette Collaboration (Picture from Shoe Buff)

I saw a surge of this type of boot in last year's Autumn/Winter seasons but I have a feeling that this surge is going to be an explosion this upcoming A/W season. I can't say that I am a huge fan of hiking boots altogether, as they tend to be a bit on the chunky side, and like I have said before, having a relatively slim frame and wearing pretty slim trousers just doesn't look that great with chunky shoes. I know that some trendy people appreciate that look, but I am definitely not one of them. But I do like this boot and it therefore leaves me in a conundrum. But then again, one can always appreciate something without ever having to own it or want it. I am not really that person either though. I usually like to have, immediately, what I like. Kind of like a spoiled kid, you know....just having a laugh, I am not really that bad. But I kind of am...

Like the whole-cut dress shoe, I love the fact that there is not really any visible stitching. It just has a very clean look to it that makes it less 'hiking' and more 'smart-like'. The style of the boots you see above, by Japanese bespoke shoemaker Imai Hiroki, is probably my favorite of the whole lot. You can see here, that he blended his dress shoe making abilities with this model, as it is much cleaner looking, sleeker and more elegant than the rest. In my mind, it would be the equivalent of a dress hiking boot, having the ability to be paired with some elegant flannel trousers or something on the dress-casual end. This model, on the other hand, would look good with some slim trousers, so long as they were not skin-tight. But I can imagine that the price tag that comes along with a pair of these, might leave even the most affluent, dented in his wallet. Therefore, I would have to settle for the top pair, which would only be good for my jeans on wet and cold days.

Picture Courtesy Of: The Shoe Buff;  Boots by: Lanvin

As you can see here, many brands from across the spectrum of shoe companies are producing these shoes. From designer labels to Japanese bespoke shoemakers to hiking companies and trendy stores, this model is spreading and seems to be the next big thing for the upcoming years. And why not? It's a good looking boot. One that can be blended from wearing in the snow to night out on the town, something that you normally cannot do. Most boots are restricted to casual wear (non-dress boots that is). Yet this model depending on how it is made, can go either way and I think that it's ability to do so, is quite smart and appealing. On topic with what the latest trend is, it is always interesting to see what will be the next 'it' style, shoe, detail etc. within the shoe industry. Some I like, some I hate. But I can safely say, that when this boot is done right, it is quite a beautiful product and something that can definitely serve it's purpose, especially if you live in a climate that calls for it.

Boots Below By: Calzaturificio Walles; Picture Courtesy Of: The Style Buff

Shoes Of The Week - Imai Hiroki

When I usually discover something new and I like it, you can bet that for the first few weeks, you will see it several times on my blog, kind of bombarding you. But, hey, when you find gold, you flaunt it. So that takes me back to this Japanese shoe maker, Imai Hiroki, that I have most recently discovered, who I must say, just might make some of the most unique and daring shoes, THAT I HAVE EVER SEEN. But I absolutely love them!!! His version of a double monk is amazing and I can't quite recall if it is the first time that I have seen it done, but I must say, the way he contrasts the colors from the straps to the shoe, is genius. His style of shoemaking is so unlike most Japanese makers, who will generally have a certain feel and look about them. I would be willing to bet that the style that Imai creates comes from a background of studying shoemaking in France, as the resemblance to shape and his patina's, strike me as French influenced. While I could be wrong, his work is breathtaking nonetheless!! Well, for me, this is shoe porn at it's finest, so if you are like me, then enjoy and if not, sorry!

Have a great weekend,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Today's Favorites - Imai Hiroki Slippers

I love the internet!!! When using it, you constantly have informational gold just at the end of your fingertips, so long as you know how to capitalize on it. That being, I was able to discover this Japanese bespoke shoe maker (or more he discovered me), Imai Hiroki, who makes some of the most incredible shoes that I have ever seen and has some of the most beautiful pictures of Japan on his site.

After punching through each link on his website (which is completely in Japanese) I came across this lovely collection of amazing house slippers. In reality, there are no words to describe just how cool these are and I guess that if you are not a shoe freak -- like me -- you may not even understand where I am coming from, but man, do I wish that I owned one, if not 5, of these! I mean, really.....how often do you see the insole of a shoe (or slipper) with a hand-patina finish? My guess would be.....NEVER! And that is what is amazing about this guy and most Japanese makers for that matter. They are so insanely obsessed with shoes, that they will take every detail in the shoemaking process and either spend 3 times the amount doing it (to make sure that it is perfect) or create new, little details that you would never have thought about, such as hand-finishing the insole.

Even though I can make my own shoes, when I come across a unique maker such as this, I still say to myself, "I would want a shoe made by this guy!"