Shoes Of The Week - Laszlo Vass MTO Spectators

I absolutely love a nice spectator (co-respondent), and this my friends, is among the nicest that I have seen to this day. It doesn't surprise me either, as most of what I see coming out of the workshops of legendary Laszlo Vass, is nothing shy of spectacular. Having inspired a reader with another model presented on the blog, he went out and found someone who could produce exactly what he was looking for, and the outcome was these, something I am sure that the reader was very pleased with....as I sure know that I would be!! Black and gray, as paired colors, is such a lovely mix to me. Not only does it keep the elegance of the black (being dressy), but it also separates it from being too muted (as I feel black shoes generally are). For me, this shoe would be something that I would love to see at a black-tie event. Call me crazy, but this to me is elegance. Sure, you may find it flashy, but how lovely would these be with a nice black-tie suit, with some gray accents in the tie/shirt region? Maybe I am just strange....but this to me is the way the world should be....not so stuffy as it is now!

 

Today's Favorites - Vass V Caps

When it comes to shortwings (wing-caps that don't extend to the mid section of the shoe), there is a very fine line between well-done and ugly. These shoes right here, by Mr. Laszlo Vass, happen to be on the pleasant side of that scale, but make you think about how you feel about them (at least they did for me). At first I thought that they were a shortwing (from a quick glance at the picture) but the more that I studied them and their interesting angles and curves on the various 'upper' pieces, I started to realize (after actually reading about them) that they are not shortwings at all. They are simply a cap toe with a pointed middle section, or what they call a V cap. I think that simple fact of uncertainty that this style creates is part of what makes them appeal to me. It makes you want to give it a double take, wondering what style of shoe it actually is. Bearing that in mind takes me back to the post I wrote about in regards to unique styling, as it would appear that when creating this pattern for the first time, he wanted to create the child that a love affair between a shortwing and a cap toe would make!

Picture Courtesy Of: Zimmerman & Kim

The Perfect Winter Boot

Septieme Largeur

A few weeks ago, I did a post about the 5 Essential Shoes for Winter and listed that a heavy brogue boot would definitely be one of those shoes to get you through these cold months. What I did not realize then and just recently stumbled upon was the fact that there is another boot, not too far off from this, which I believe could be the ONE shoe (boot) that anyone would ever need for the winter season. That boot being, a light brogue boot with a leather sole, preferably as an oxford as seen here by Septieme Largeur. The reason that I did not think of this, is because you rarely see them. But after getting a pair and thinking about it, it makes perfect sense. Not only does it look good casually but can also be paired with the thicker suits that one tends to wear during the colder months.

As you can see, the features of the boot give it everything it needs to be as a dress shoe: slim sole, sleek last shape, normal heel height etc. The only thing that makes it casual would be the metal, ring eyelets (the bottom ones, as the trouser should always cover the top ones). But they are so nondescript that they create the perfect balance of being not too casual for pairing with suits, but just casual enough to make these boots look real good with a nice pair of jeans. The design, quite admirable, is something that I would have never thought of. And that's why I did not mind actually getting a pair, knowing that I would not put something like this into my first collection, and will now have to think about whether or not I will ever add it at all, for fear of having to give these away!

Edward Green (ladies) -- Leffot

Laszlo Vass

Rider Boot Co.

Perfetto

After wearing them a couple of times and thinking about their versatility, I realized that this very well could be my go-to winter shoe. It's dark, elegant but casual and can be paired with the majority of outfits that one could create, with the exception of fancy dress. That being, I figured that it's the perfect winter boot. Now as a second choice, as the oxford version is hard to find, I would have to say that the derby brogue boot is a good contender. I would not pair it with a suit but it makes a darn fine shoe for jeans and the likes of winter-type trousers such as moleskins and corduroys, just the things that I gravitate towards (as I am sure that you do too) once that weather gets so cold that I can feel it in my bones. And after re-evaluating my shoe collection, I see that oxford shoes are something that I do not really need to add any more of, and boots are something that I have far too little of. Good thing there will be 3 different boots in my first collection. I won't mind nicking a couple of pairs....

Alden

Edward Green -- Photo courtesy of Leffot

My Trip To Laszlo Vass

During my time in Budapest (which in actuality, was a trip for my wife's birthday), there were two people that I wanted to meet. One was Marcell Mrsan from Koronya and the other was Mr. Laszlo Vass. Now, being that this was not a business trip and was supposed to be dedicated to relaxtion and rejuvention, I knew that I was going to have to make my shoe related events brief. Before going, I emailed Marcell to let him know that I was coming so that we could arrange a quick meet up, but unbeknownst to me he is currently taking up a position as a teacher in an arts school in Savannah, Georgia (USA) and will not return until the holiday break. So with that unfortunate loss for me and the blog, it made my shoe related quests that much shorter and therefore, that much easier to convince the wife about a quick pit-stop to Mr. Vass' shop. Now I had no idea whether or not Mr. Vass was going to be there, as I have never really read much about him or his role at the company (other than being the owner and founder), so was not really sure what to expect other than asking the people there if I could take some photos to do a nice post on the blog. So when I walked up to the shop and saw this gentleman on the phone, who was Mr. Vass himself, I was pleasantly surprised to know that I was going to have the opportunity to meet him.

Upon entering the shop --which was small, quaint and lovely in it's own right-- I was greeted with smiles and kindness and knew that it was going to be a nice visit. While Mr. Vass was on the phone, I told the other two people (a very nice lady and Mr. Kuti Rezso who did the translating) that I was here to see Mr. Vass. And even though a translator was necessary, I got the impression that Mr. Vass could understand english well enough, as he acknowledged my presence and got off of the phone rather quickly. After doing so, I greeted him and began telling them who I was and what my goals were. Of course, they did not know who I was, but this came as no surprise as I know in reality that I am not that big. I told them that I was a huge admirer and that I wanted to put up a nice blog post dedicated to my visit with pictures of the shoes and the shop. They kindly agreed and made a joke saying that they hope that they do not see any of their models in my upcoming collections. I assured them that this would never happen!

After chatting for awhile about my future endeavors and the state of the shoe industry in regards to price versus quality, I got the feeling that Mr. Vass was truly a person who cared about shoes and the ability to make something that represented properly the price that it was selling at, as well as creating something that was not only practical and stylish, but most of all, comfortable. It was nice meeting another person like this, knowing that no matter what, he does what he does in order to see people wearing well-made shoes. For him, it's not just about making a quick buck, but rather about making something that treats the foot properly and maintains integrity. It's not hard to see this when you look at the shoes. The leathers are good, the construction is fabolous and the shapes and designs are lovely. And to top it all off, they come with a modest price point of around 120,000 Ft, which would be the equivalent to about 400 GBP. And while this might sound expensive for some, in regards to what you are getting, it seems like a bargain to me, especially when you think about other shoe brands and their price-points. 

While my time at the shop couldn't have been longer than 15 minutes, it was an absolute pleasure to actually meet Mr. Vass in person and get a feel for his shop, shoes and way of being. It's always nice being able to meet people who truly care about shoes in a similar fashion that I do. And while I could not afford a pair of his shoes on this trip, I assured him that even though I plan to start my own line in the future, that I would one day return to get a pair, as I believe that their distinct looks, shapes and styling, would never conflict with my own.

If you are in the market for a quick European getaway, I would highly recommend Budapest, as the city is beautiful, the thermal spas are endless, the food is good and there is always a chance to get a great pair of shoes at a good price. Enjoy the rest of your week!!

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Laszlo Vass: A Private Collection

Laszlo Vass shoes are truly beautiful. And coming from me, who is not the biggest fan of protruding welts and thick soles (at least not on slim dress shoes), it means a lot. He has managed to somehow create a shoe that is dressy, but has a pretty substantial sole on it, yet still be incredibly elegant. This is not easy to do. Maybe that is why, for such a small Hungarian shoemaker, he has quite a large following. This picture, for example, comes from the Style Forum, of which there is a thread that is dedicated to Laszlo Vass shoes and is call 'The Ultimate Vass Porn Thread.' This impressive collection comes from one of SF's leading wardrobe owner, meaning that he is famed for having a ridiculous amount of clothing and shoes. It's tough, I know. I can only read so much of this thread (and others like it) before I fill up with envy, especially when i see pictures like this, where someone takes a picture of his 5 brand new shoes that must have just arrived. Seriously....I would love to be able to order 5 shoes at a time, wouldn't you??? Well, I must say that the wholecut and u-cap models (both second from left and right) have stolen my heart. They are magnificent, beautiful, elegant and worst of all....not mine!

Shoes -- Part 2: Style Names & Terminology -- Oxfords

To get back to a little bit of education, I have decided to write my 'Monday long posts', on everything and anything referring to shoes, that being, the 'technical stuff' and giving a break to the aesthetic fluff that I usually put up. I first started with the different shoe constructions and am now moving on to the different style names and terminologies. As there is much to write, I will start with oxfords and proceed next week onto the following style: derby's (AKA bluchers). Enjoy!

Oxfords:

-- Wholecuts --

My favorite style of shoe is, hands down, the oxford. For me, it is the most elegant style out of everything a shoe/boot can become. This is because it allows, with it's closed lacing, the shoe to be very clean looking i.e. stitch free. The more stitch-free the shoe can become, the more elegant it gets, at least in my opinion. Oxfords can also be referred to as 'balmorals,' and this is due to the fact that oxfords were first seen in Ireland and Scotland, and thus takes after the name of the Queen of England's castle, which is also called Balmoral. But what you will always be able to use, in order to denote an oxford, is the fact that the tongue will always be stitched under the vamp.

As I was stating before, the most elegant (dressy) of all of the oxfords, is the wholecut (as shown above), due to the fact that it has no stitching across the main sections of the shoe (only the back seam). The beautiful version above is by French brand, Septieme Largeur.

Refer to these images above, for the names of the different pieces from the shoe's upper. Click on image to enlarge.

-- Plain Toe's --

While these shoe styles above are not technically called this, it is a good way to know what's on the next level of the hierarchy of dressiness. I have always felt that the less fluff that you see around the toe area, the dressier the shoe. This is partly because when wearing dress trousers, you tend to see mostly the toe area, and not the rest of the shoe. Therefore, the less stitching, the more elegant the model. As you will notice, however, on the top shoe, there is what is called a medallion, on the toe box. A medallion is brogueing (hole punching) in the shape of some symmetrical (unless bespoke) decoration that is positioned on the front of the toe box. This will be a matter of opinion, when deciding whether or not a medallion makes the shoe less dressy. I think that it does. That's not to say that it is not nice, but when considering what to wear to a formal event, less is always more. (The two beautiful models above by Anthony Delos)

 -- Cap Toe's --

A cap toe, or a straight cap, is denoted by the stitching that crosses over the toe box area. A cap toe is a very general term, much like wingtip, and can refer to any shoe that has a straight cap, such as this. And while this shoe shows all of the pieces of the upper, in a simple manner, I shall explain those as well, just in case the sketched pictures provided above, were a little confusing. The piece in between the cap and the laces, where your foot flexes, is called the 'vamp.' The little piece where the laces are, is called the 'facing.' The part where the heel is, is called the 'heel counter.' And last but not least, the leftover bit is called the 'quarter.'

You will find that the cap toe is probably the most popular model in dress shoe history. Since there have been suits, there have been cap toes, and it seems that they tend to go hand-in-hand, as most business professionals wear them. For many industries, this has become the staple model of dress shoe, which to me is unfortunate, as there are so many better models.

Model Above By: Anthony Delos

 

 -- Wingtips --

Wingtips, or wing caps, are just like cap toes, only they have this W shaped cap, as opposed to a straight line. Because of that shape, they are generally seen as less dressy, as this shape is "more daring," and less business-like. This is by no means my opinion, but rather what seams to be the elementary school of thought considered by many white collar industries, and their superiors. I can understand that it might be less formal, but in no way, does that make me feel that it is any less appropriate for business attire. But then again, things are changing and you will find that more people (thankfully) are wearing this style to work, with their business suits!

Shoes Above By: Gaziano & Girling

-- U-Caps --

Far less common, are the U-caps. This style, I believe, used to be used a lot more many years ago, by the likes of Edward Green and older shoe firms but has since been popular until recently. While it is still uncommon to see them, I feel that they will be making a come back in the near future. What's nice about them is that they add a breath of fresh air, to your closet, as they will stand out from all of the other common styles, that everyone owns. While I still do not have a pair, I am definitely going to be adding that to my 'must-have' list, and would not mind if they came from Laszlo Vass, as I love the one's that he did, pictured above.

-- Saddle Shoes --

If you have read my blog before, than you know a thing or two about saddle shoes, and how they are my absolute favorite style ever!! And as I have written a ton of info about them before, including here, I won't bore you with more mumbo jumbo. I will just say, that they never disappoint, and it is good to see them back on the books for many companies upcoming seasons.

Shoes Above By: Septieme Largeur

-- Galosh Shoe --

While this could be up for debate, I have heard this model called 'galosh style' before, as it looks as if there is a galosh covering the toe to heel area, leaving the facing and top of the quarter exposed. Yet, some people also refer to it simply as a balmoral. Whatever the case, it is proper style, one that I find quite appealing and elegant. I only wish that you would see it more, not only in stores, but also on people's feet!

Top Shoes: Craig Corvin
Bottom Left: Laszlo Vass; Bottom Right: Gaziano & Girling

Well, as it is late and I am super tired and therefore I am going to leave it at that for today. While there are so many more to go and you might have thought that I left some out, be patient and you will more than likely see them on another post, when I get to brogues, spectators, derby's, boots etc.

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Shoes Of The Week - Laszlo Vass

I know that you hear this all of the time from me, but I have really been in the mood for a pair of double monks, as I do not have a pair. Those and some loafers!! This pair here by Laszlo Vass is simply stunning. The color is unique and delightful, the monk strap (the actual part) is just the right design, and the buckles are subtle and simple. What more could you ask for? Maybe a slimmer sole? Naw, that's the way Vass likes it and to be honest, that's what I like about them. I love how they will create this super sleek shoe, in terms of last shape, yet then add a pretty beefy sole, but not too big like some Norwegian construction, just big enough. It's a look that you don't see often but certainly draws attention to the eye, as it is like a paradox, in a sense. But because of that, when you see someone wearing a Vass shoe, you know immediately that it is one. That's clever branding for ya!!

If you happen to love this shoe like me and want to find it, it can be purchased at: Zimmerman & Kim

The owner, Reto, is a lovely fellow and speaks great English so just send him an email if you are interested!

Have a great weekend everyone!

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"