What I Am Wearing

The Astaire by Gaziano & Girling is hands-down my all-time favorite spectator (co-respondent). Every different part of it was designed perfectly, particularly the facing, with all of it's beautiful curves. When I decided that I was going to get it, I was almost a bit nervous in deciding what colorway that I wanted it in. Not that it was frightening or anything, but as I love the shoe so much, I wanted to enhance it as best as I could with my color options. At first I thought a bit crazily, and wanted to do some strong contrasting, but in the end, I decided that having the two different leathers was all the contrast I needed. Therefore, why not pick my favorite color in two different shades? And I am sure glad that I did, because the end result has turned out to be better than I would have imagined and has created a shoe that I absolutely love! And if you are like me, as in you love a beautiful spectator, but have never found one that really did it for you, then look no further than the Astaire. After all, it is named after my all-time favorite style icon, Mr. Fred!

Shoes: Gaziano & Girling
Zip Sweater: Intimissimi
Trousers: H&M
Undershirt: Primark
Tie: Drakes

Shoes Of The Week - Alfred Sargent

Picture Courtesy of Style Sage

I once did a post talking about how I felt that the brown full-brogue was the most versatile shoe there is and even though this shoe above, by Alfred Sargent, is not considered a "full-brogue," it really makes me feel that my statement was bang-on, as I feel that I could wear this shoe with just about everything! Not only is everything that has to do with the design, like pattern, last shape and contrasted sole, but the color of the upper is absolutely exquisite. Out of the trillion shades of brown that there is, I really think that this is the best one that I have yet to see. It has a perfect blend between a mid-brown and a chocolate, being a bit dark but not so much so that it could be mistaken for black.....Gosh, it's so hard being a shoe freak, especially one that is starting his own range, as it makes me feel that I will have to stick to wearing only my shoes, but that idea alone goes very much against the grain of my soul, as I will continue to yearn for other models.....ah what dilemmas! That being, as you may have gathered from it all, this shoe is lovely and is precisely the shoe that every man needs to complete his wardrobe: a dark brown brogue of sorts....

I hope that everyone has a wonderful weekend. Until Monday....

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

What I Am Wearing

It's funny how you will always wish that you wore the opposite of what you have to. Most people who wear suits everyday probably wish that they could dress down a bit and yet I, who does dress down the majority of days, wish that I could wear suits more often. The reason being, is that I quite like the look of suit jacket-shirt-tie. The way that they fall together, to me, is just so beautiful yet very masculine. I also quite like putting on a light sweater (jumper) over a button-up shirt and tie (as shown above), but find myself getting quite bored with it, as of lately. Yet because it is cold, I can't use my waistcoats, and can't really dress any other way, as I have to wear a tie. To be honest, it would either be suits with bespoke shoes or jeans with trainers. This in-between dress/casual type of attire is getting to me!! But what can I do....buy more suits I guess and just hope that I don't get any polish on my trousers...

Shoes: Allen Edmonds 'Hampstead'
Sweater (jumper): Primark
Shirt: Primark
Knit Tie: Gieves & Hawkes
Trousers: H&M

My Prototype Adjustments

I'm back! Sorry for the long time without posting, but I did not have time nor much access to anything while away on my quick trip to Spain. But alas, I am home and decided to give you another little morsel of what I have been up to. So needless to say, you can see here just what I have been doing while away, and how I am going through the rounds of adjusting my prototypes in order to create the ideas that I had floating in my head. Now, you might think that what I have been showing you is nothing that special (in terms of unique designs), and that is purposefully done as I don't want to give away of my ideas before my shoes are ready for distribution. So, at first I showed you my take on a cap-toe and now I am showing you my take on a nice brogue. I decided that I did not want to go straight into designing a full brogue, as every other shoe company in the world has one. Obviously I will eventually need to make one, for all of you classicists out there, but in the meanwhile being the sucker that I am for saddles, I decided to introduce the 'saddle brogue.'

As you can see, there have been adjustments made with a silver pen indicating what needs to be changed. The sharp corner of that saddle did not flow well with the smooth, soft line of the wing cap below it, so I am having the pattern maker round it out a bit in order for the lines to be in sync with each other. This will give the shoe a little bit more balance as I believe that it is a bit on the clashing-side at the current moment.

For some odd reason, it would appear that the toe sits very high off of the ground, but I can assure you that this is not the case, as I am not a fan of toes that curve upward. Obviously, a shoe needs a bit of space between the toe and the floor, due to the way that we walk, but I think that the fact that there is a piece of glass that sits on top of the table, it would appear as if the surface is lower than it actually is, giving off the illusion of a toe that curves too high upward.

So, here is one more of my shoes to hold you over and to let you know that I am indeed working as fast as I can to release my collection which will consist of around 12 different designs, having two of the designs using two different lasts, making it seem that there would be 14 different designs. I am hoping (optimistically) that they will be ready by mid to late January (assuming there is no more need for adjustments) and that I can put my first order through by sometime in February (but don't hold me strictly to this). So for all of those patiently waiting, I can assure you that it is not long from now.....

Shoes Of The Week - Saint Crispins

When I first got into the shoe industry (selling shoes at Nordstrom), I used to hate loafers that had kilties on them, especially when they were paired with tassels. It was simply a bombardment of materiel that overshadowed the shoe itself, especially since they tended to be on those really low-cut loafers that you find popular in the States. It was until Church's came out with their vintage line and paired a kilty with a proper shoe (model: Kaber) that I began to like them. Now you see them popping up everywhere, and it's almost become the trendy thing to do in the shoe industry. And why not? It offers something unique, can truly transform the look of a shoe, and is a nice testament to how shoes use to be back in the old days.

But when I saw this model above, by Saint Crispins, it completely confirmed my liking of the kilty, placed elegantly on a shoe. Everything about this model is right. All the proportions are dead-on, the length of the kilty is perfect, the strap is thin and elegant, and the brogue pattern is beautifully positioned in all the right places. I am actually filling with envy as I write this, because the more I look at this shoe, the more that I want it, and the more that I realize that I cannot afford it. So I will leave it at this and wish all a fantastic weekend!

Picture Courtesy Of: Leather Soul

No Brown In Town = Yeah Right!

In this day and age, most of the strict sartorial rules have been thrown out the window, and rightfully so! Now, don't get me wrong, some rules still apply and should never be broken but those that are so incredibly ridiculous and leave us all looking completely uniform and monotone (like 'no brown in town') are thankfully loosing their strength as the new generation of sartorialists plant their individualism into the minds of society. For too long, were things so boring. Black shoes have ruled the industry since the invention of dress shoes but mark my word, 2011 will truly define the year of color and seeing dress shoes in all shapes, colors and designs. It is no longer cool to 'fit in' and be just like everyone else, to all aspire to be Cary Grant, Steve McQueen or Gianni Agnelli. I would rather admire Andre 3000, Fred Astaire, Paul Smith, or anyone else whose outfit portrays character and thought, rather than just grabbing one of your 10 black suits, 20 white shirts, 7 blue ties, 8 black shoes and piecing those together to make a 'stylish' outfit.

Shoes Top Row: Gaziano & Girling
Shoes Bottom Row: Santoni

While living in the States, you get the feel there still are certain individuals who strictly adhere to this rule (men over 50 or crazy strict conservatives) but all-in-all, American's who are generally known as bad dressers across the world, are actually turning around to become some of the most daring, well-put together individuals around. Granted, I still think that Italians, as a whole, are the best dressed but the risk takers in the States who actually get it right, to me, are a step above the rest. Then again, these are far and few between.

While living in Italy, I noticed that this rule does not even exist. In fact, it is quite the opposite. You hardly ever see anyone wearing black shoes and to me this is how it should be. Black is so morbid and does not convey personality or character, unless of course you are going for a goth look, then you will be hitting the nail on the head. And I feel like the Italians think the same way. Color to them displays creativity and being a country deeply involved in art and romance, I feel that they blend the two together to create and choose the attire that they wear. (I may sound crazy with that last line but you would understand if you went there and saw with your own eyes)

But what truly brought me to write this, is my short time here in England. While British culture has created some of the finest and most stylish pieces a man can find in his wardrobe: tweed suits, Edward Green shoes, brogues etc., there is still a strict mentality in the way that 'it should be.' And while it is no longer forbidden to wear brown shoes for business, I feel like it is still an unwritten rule enforced by the thought police and carried out by society. I have met many men who will only wear black shoes with their suits and brown only on the weekend, because a 'gentleman' does so. What a load of crap. This old-world mentality, be it elegant and dapper, is unnecessary. A gentleman should not be defined by his shoe color or clothing attire that he wears during the week vs. the weekend, but rather how he carries himself in the clothing and shoes that he is wearing!

Just because blue shoes may compliment the color of the sea does not mean that I am going to wear them to the beach!

Food for thought.....

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"