Shoes -- Part 1: Construction

The world of shoes is a vast one. There are many different terms to describe not only the shoe's style name, but also the manner in which it was made as well as the small details that you find on the shoe's surface and it's core. And while some of this knowledge might be trivial to many of you, I know that there still are many people who do not know (or confuse) the differences in construction of shoes, as well as their style names, such wing-tip vs. brogues vs. cap toes etc. So, to appease the request of others, I will go through them in a brief yet concise manner, but also leave you with detailed descriptions provided by other blogs & articles, that have explained more thoroughly the differences in shoe construction. For today's discussions, I will go through some of the different shoe constructions and what I think about them. Next week, I will go through each of the shoe's style names and will leave it open for commentary on what you would like to learn about in week 3.

Pictures are taken from various sources, including Rider Boot Co. and La Botte Web
Shoe Above By: Roberto Ugolini

Shoe Constructions:

 --Goodyear Welted: 

In my opinion, a Goodyear welted shoe, in terms of construction, is what separates the men from the boys. This is not to say that men who wear other constructions are boys, but in terms of a shoe's integrity, Goodyear welted shoes will last you longer than most and therefore are the bread & butter of the high-end shoe market. It is generally regarded as the best construction in terms of comfort and durability as well as ease in terms of reparation. It also holds the same theory as bespoke welting, yet the obvious difference being that in bespoke it is done by hand and does not have a canvas rib supporting the feather. It is highly regarded for several different reasons: 1, for being relatively waterproof, because of the welt/sole connection, not allowing for water to get into the insole; 2, for it's relative ease in replacing the sole, thus giving you a shoe that can truly last 20-30 years depending on how you treat the upper leather; and 3, for it's cork filling, which is known to create a nice mold of your foot, after a good amount of wear, providing an almost custom-like foot-bed. While Goodyear welted shoes, are used very much by the English shoe market, the term and machinery used to create such shoes, were actually invented by Charles Goodyear Jr., the son of American inventor, Charles Goodyear, whom invented vulcanized rubber.

-- Blake & Blake Rapid:

Blake and Blake Rapid are the constructions most used by the Italian shoe industry. The Blake construction is created by directly stitching the outer sole to the insole, providing maximum flexibility and a light weight to the shoe. The Blake Rapid construction is pretty much made in the same fashion, except that there is a mid-sole (as shown in the top picture) that is connected to the outer sole as well as the insole, providing a little bit more cushion to your foot. Some will say that a well made Blake Rapid, will be just as good as a Goodyear welted shoe, yet being the snob that I am, I prefer a Goodyear welted shoe. Not because I find it better, per se, but because that is what I have learned to make and appreciate. I do very much believe that a Goodyear welted shoe, will always out-trump a Blake constructed shoe on the other hand, as a Blake shoe is much easier to wear out and let water in. There are also far fewer cobblers who can repair a Blake constructed shoe, leaving you with a shorter life span of the shoe. Don't get me wrong though, they are not necessarily to be frowned upon, they are just different, and it depends on what you are looking for.

-- Norwegian AKA Norvegese (in Italian)

Boots By: Santoni (true Norwegian stitch)

Bespoke Shoe By: Stefano Bemer (aesthetic Norwegian stitch)

Norwegian construction, despite it's name, is a construction widely used, again, by the Italian shoe industry. While it was originally intended to create a shoe that was truly waterproofed, through and through, it is mostly used now to create an aesthetic appeal to those who appreciate it (i.e. picture of shoe by Stefano Bemer, above). That being, as you will notice in the two pictures, on a shoe that is intended for waterproof-like qualities, you will see that the welt is actually flush not only with the sole, but also with the upper, being completely on the outside, as opposed to halfway out and halfway in, as in Goodyear welt construction. But the bottom picture will show you, that there is no welt fully on the outside but rather just the stitching that represents the Norwegian look. This will give you the look of Norwegian construction, but won't give you the complete waterproof quality. This will be a construction that you would want to consider for a shoe that you will use for outdoor activities, leaving you open to get wet. It is a durable, yet stiff construction, but can stand the test of time.

There are many other constructions out there, such as Bologna construction, but they are the far and few between and to me, are less important. But IF YOU READ HERE, you will get a much more in-depth description of each of the constructions above, including Bologna.

Goodyear Welted Shoes Below By: Alden

No Brown In Town = Yeah Right!

In this day and age, most of the strict sartorial rules have been thrown out the window, and rightfully so! Now, don't get me wrong, some rules still apply and should never be broken but those that are so incredibly ridiculous and leave us all looking completely uniform and monotone (like 'no brown in town') are thankfully loosing their strength as the new generation of sartorialists plant their individualism into the minds of society. For too long, were things so boring. Black shoes have ruled the industry since the invention of dress shoes but mark my word, 2011 will truly define the year of color and seeing dress shoes in all shapes, colors and designs. It is no longer cool to 'fit in' and be just like everyone else, to all aspire to be Cary Grant, Steve McQueen or Gianni Agnelli. I would rather admire Andre 3000, Fred Astaire, Paul Smith, or anyone else whose outfit portrays character and thought, rather than just grabbing one of your 10 black suits, 20 white shirts, 7 blue ties, 8 black shoes and piecing those together to make a 'stylish' outfit.

Shoes Top Row: Gaziano & Girling
Shoes Bottom Row: Santoni

While living in the States, you get the feel there still are certain individuals who strictly adhere to this rule (men over 50 or crazy strict conservatives) but all-in-all, American's who are generally known as bad dressers across the world, are actually turning around to become some of the most daring, well-put together individuals around. Granted, I still think that Italians, as a whole, are the best dressed but the risk takers in the States who actually get it right, to me, are a step above the rest. Then again, these are far and few between.

While living in Italy, I noticed that this rule does not even exist. In fact, it is quite the opposite. You hardly ever see anyone wearing black shoes and to me this is how it should be. Black is so morbid and does not convey personality or character, unless of course you are going for a goth look, then you will be hitting the nail on the head. And I feel like the Italians think the same way. Color to them displays creativity and being a country deeply involved in art and romance, I feel that they blend the two together to create and choose the attire that they wear. (I may sound crazy with that last line but you would understand if you went there and saw with your own eyes)

But what truly brought me to write this, is my short time here in England. While British culture has created some of the finest and most stylish pieces a man can find in his wardrobe: tweed suits, Edward Green shoes, brogues etc., there is still a strict mentality in the way that 'it should be.' And while it is no longer forbidden to wear brown shoes for business, I feel like it is still an unwritten rule enforced by the thought police and carried out by society. I have met many men who will only wear black shoes with their suits and brown only on the weekend, because a 'gentleman' does so. What a load of crap. This old-world mentality, be it elegant and dapper, is unnecessary. A gentleman should not be defined by his shoe color or clothing attire that he wears during the week vs. the weekend, but rather how he carries himself in the clothing and shoes that he is wearing!

Just because blue shoes may compliment the color of the sea does not mean that I am going to wear them to the beach!

Food for thought.....

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"