The Beauty Of Made To Order Shoes

Gaziano & Girling St. James II, Courtesy of Zimmermann & Kim

Have you ever seen the coolest shoe ever, only that it came in just black or just brown or just some other color that you really didn't fancy, or just thought was plain boring. I have....about a million times. And what did you do when this happened? Probably nothing, because what could you do, especially if this brand did not have any custom offerings program, more simply known as MTO. Well, for me that is a shame, because the person gets all worked up, only to be left disappointed in the long run. Now, that doesn't mean that every brand in the whole world should have MTO, because it really depends on the factory that produces their shoes, how low they want to make their minimum order and for how much of a mark-up in price (for each shoe) they want to do this at. Some brands don't have a choice, some do. But the ones that do, for me, have a great advantage because the more that time goes on the more that I feel that there are higher numbers of people like me who simply are not satisfied with the common offering available. They want something unique, something that no one else has, something that other people go 'WOW' at.... And if they are creative enough, the executioin of MTO can do this just for them...

Many Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot and L'atelier du Chausseur

I put every picture that I have of the Corthay Wilfred above here....how many do you think came as a stock color offering? Probably about 2 or 3, maximum. But how many of them blow you away? Many none, maybe all of them? Maybe you are the guy that just wants a black or brown shoe? Who knows. But nevertheless, the beauty of MTO is that it allows for the designers/shoemaker to offer a much broader selection of his work. And because of this, the designer may actually be happier. I say this because a concoction that is created by the customer might resonate closer to what the designer would ideally like to make, as opposed to what he actually does, which will most likely be what the 'average consumer' wants. I will be honest with you, when I first thought about starting my shoe line, I just wanted to make extremely unique shoes, much like the bespoke ones that I have made, but as the time gets closer to launching, the more that I realize that I cannot just make what I like, but have to appeal to majority. But fret not, because I am bold enough to take the risk of doing a happy medium by creating things that mix between what I want to see in the market, but also what I believe could appeal to the masses.

G & G, Courtesy of Zimmermann & Kim

Saint Crispins, Courtesy of The Armoury

Edward Green, Courtesy of Leather Soul (I believe)

The only real downfalls of Made To Order shoes, is the amount of time that it usually takes to receive them (which requires a lot of patience) and the possibility of creating something ugly that you will then be stuck with. The second fright will really just be up to you and your idea of pairing colors and/or leathers. But the time constraint, albeit frustrating, is really out of many makers hands. If you think about it in a logical business sense (which every company has to), the factory will always want to put the order of 1000 pairs of shoes, before the order of 1 or 2 MTOs. It would be ideal if each factory just had a section that was strictly for MTO shoes, but that would most likely not be practical without a guarantee of about 100 orders/month, if not more. Therefore, as this will most likely never be the case, the only real downfall to getting a shoe that you customized, is the time that you have to wait for it. But like most good things in life, they are usually worth waiting for....

Today's Favorites - Gaziano & Girling Saddle Loafers

There is nothing quite like a nice loafer. They are so versatile and pleasing simply for the fact that you don't have to bend over to tie them. I mean, what more could you really ask for? It's laziness at its finest! If you must though, then allow me to elaborate....They go great with jeans, amazing with chinos, workable with suits, and pretty much every other trouser that you can think of....And I really never realized how much I liked them until one day I finally had all of my shoes together, was looking for a brown oxford and realized that I did not have hardly any.....just a bunch of dang loafers! Not that I am complaining by any means, but just found it quite funny especially since my heel is so narrow which makes for a hard loafer fit. But I think that my appreciation for them exploded times 10 when I saw these bad boys by Gaziano & Girling. They are absolutely stunning and signify the beauty of the Made-To-Order idea. Made from the Joyce pattern, on the Deco last with a polo suede upper makes this one of those shoes, that if they were made for me, would get a regrettable amount of wear, and that being a good thing....regrettable because I would wear them into the ground!.....To the client that ordered them: GOOD CHOICE!

Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot

Grades Of Shoe Craftsmanship

Bespoke models by Corthay

As I have stated before, there seems to be a whole lot of confusion as to how a shoe is made (whether by hand, machine or a bit of both), particularly due to the lack of knowledge from salesmen at retail stores, as well as the misrepresentation of words (such as 'handmade') printed on a shoe itself. These two things, coupled with the gullibility and naïveté of many male consumers, leave a lot of people to believe that their shoes are of a higher quality/grade than they actually are. Normally I wouldn't care about such things, as it's hard to try and correct every lie that people are told each and every day in order to buy such and such product, but as a person who truly cares about the reputation of shoes and the fact that I have my own brand coming out soon, I feel that this issue must be acknowledged, thoroughly and constantly until people start to become more aware. Now some of these terms were created many years ago, and have been modified/altered in terms of their defining features, so I will give the account that I believe to be correct, which just might be up for debate...

Mass Produced

While I have never actually seen this done (as in never been to one of these factories), mass-produced shoes would be the kind that are pumped out thousands by the day, as common sense would tell you. Shoes that are predominantly created by machines, conveyer belts, and chemical products. Think glued shoes, shoes that are selling by the millions a year. There is simply no way that people can be there to pump each and every one of them through. Sure you have people who will work the machines and handle the shoes, as in maintain them electronically or however, so that there are no hiccups in production, but there are definitely not any skilled individuals guiding the shoes along, making sure that every detail is sorted out. These will be the shoes that will retail under $200 (£125). They will be shapeless, use low-grade leather, most likely not be that comfortable and won't last a long amount of time. This is not always the case though, as some brands (whose pockets are deep) have found a way to produce the shoes cheap, but give you something that can rival a decent shoe (think Ecco shoes - decent leather, long-lasting but mass produced).

Bench Grade 

Crockett & Jones

For me, a bench grade shoe denotes the presence of a skilled worker at each machine within the factory, who is actively taking part in the production process by guiding the shoes through each stage of manufacturing. This takes people with years of experience and knowledge. Not any 'ol Joe off of the street could just start doing this.... Now, this next bit is where myself and others might differ, but I don't believe that a bench grade level of craftsmanship strictly refers to goodyear welted shoes. Santoni, for example, who predominantly makes blake stitched shoes, has skilled workers positioned at every machine, guiding the shoes along, in order to produce them. This for me, also indicates a bench grade shoe. Now bench grade shoes, are going to be your entry point into quality footwear. They will use medium grade leathers, have a slightly more shaped last than a mass produced shoe, and will be of better quality overall. However, within the bench grade category of shoe, there will be some makes that are better than others, say C&J versus Loake.

Hand Grade

Edward Green, Photo Courtesy Of: Leffot

A hand grade shoe, will start off like a bench grade one, only that there will be more handwork involved, mainly in the finishing part of production. Things like the waist of the shoe, will be finished with a tool that rounds off the edges (bevelled), fudge wheels being used by hand to create those ridge-like indentations on the welt in order to pronounce the stitching, and the sole will have a channel stitch (closed and clean) as opposed to an open stitch that you can see. Everything will just look a bit cleaner, a bit more artisan. The shoes will be more shapely, as they will leave the last inside of it longer (to gain a strong mold), as well as just have a more shaped last, less bulbous. The leathers all around the shoe will be better, from sole, to upper to lining. But, just because the shoe says hand grade, does not mean that it was made by hand.

Semi-Bespoke/Handmade

Deco Range, by Gaziano & Girling

I had never really believed in using the term 'semi-bespoke,' because I always felt like there was no such way to half create something for someone. As in, being that bespoke is defined as 'spoken for' meaning that something was created specifically (to their measurements when referring to articles of clothing) for someone, then how could it be semi-specific? But, that was until I learned that through Saint Crispins MTO/semi-bespoke program, not only do you get a completely handmade shoe, but they also allow you to alter a preexisting last. This means that it is like the idea of MTM suits, whereby you take a standard block and alter it to someones measurements (not perfect, but close) but then created by hand, instead of machine. This to me, would define semi-bespoke, as well as 'handmade.' Now on the other hand, there is also semi-handmade, like the Deco range by Gaziano & Girling. It is considered so due to the fact that certain parts of the shoe (i.e. the waist), were not only finished by hand, but also lasted and stitched too. Therefore certain parts of the 'making' process were completely done by hand and not by machine.

Bespoke

Bespoke Spat Boot by Anthony Delos

Bespoke shoes are shoes that are completely customized and made entirely (with the exception of the stitching of the upper leather) by hand. This invokes a long process, whereby the customer must get measured by the last maker, talk through design ideas, choose toe shapes and await for his trial fit. After the shoe company has made his last and a mock-up of the shoe for the customer to try for fit, can the shoe then be completed. It usually takes anywhere from 4-6 months, depending on whether or not the customer is new (i.e. has never had a trial fit). Be wary of anything that takes a shorter amount of time or does not involve this process. With a bespoke shoe, there should be no size on the inside, you should then have your own last (but they don't give them to you) and it should (in theory) look like a work of art, and not something that you can pluck off of the shelf...

Shoes Of The Week - Gaziano & Girling Kent

The galosh (or balmoral or whatever you want to call it) style of shoe, that has a separation from the top piece (facing extended to heel) and bottom piece (vamp extending to heel) is one of my favorite models simply for the fact that it's options in leather or material pairings are endless. When creating a pair of shoes that you will release to the public, you have to make sure that you do something that is going to appeal to the majority and not be something that only you or a handful of people would like (which is very difficult to do). So when I saw these Kent model make ups, by Gaziano & Girling, with the top piece being alligator, I was taken aback by how well the combination went together. The patina of the alligator is probably what captures me most, as it truly gives the shoe a feel of antiquity. Now this might be one of those things that is only liked by a few people, as I personally believe that it takes one of extreme self confidence to pull these off. But at the same time, they are not ostentatious and because the alligator is so small and is on the upper part of the shoe, I do believe that this shoe could easily fit into someone's work wardrobe, as well as their casual one.....

In case any of you were wondering, Budapest is beautiful and I will have a nice write up of my trip to Laszlo Vass' store on Monday. Until then, enjoy the rest of your weekends

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot

Today's Favorites - Rider Boot Co.

I must say that these are absolutely stunning!! The fabric on these just might be one of the nicest one's that I have seen thus far, paired with a boot or shoe. I particularly like when a black leather shoe (or boot) is paired with a fabric that is a mixture between black and white, which in turn gives off a gray look, as is the case with this amazing herringbone tweed by Rider Boot Co.. For me, this is how a black shoe should be made, in order to take away from it's flatness and to give it more character. And to give away a little about my first design that I am working on and getting the pattern cut for, I will say that it is of this nature, that being, it will be a shoe composed of a flannel fabric and black leather. Having this boot in mind, I am quite pleased that I have been seeing more and more balmoral boots being made and put into production, although these are MTO, it's still nice to know that they are becoming more and more available. I must praise Ron Rider of Rider Boot Co. for the lovely designs and beautiful boots that I have seen of his inventory because there is nothing like a nice boot!

Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot

Shoes Of The Week - Corthay

You can never go wrong with a simple and beautiful burgundy shoe. And while this statement, in my mind, rings truer than true, it is still strange to me the lack of burgundy shoes that you will notice on the shelves of shoe stores/departments. It's funny too, because the most simple design, which could be construed as boring, can also be the most elegant and beautiful, when it comes to a burgundy shoe. With black shoes, I prefer something a little more unique and different, maybe to separate the black from itself, if you know what I mean, so it is not just one continuation. But with a burgundy shoe, like this model here by Corthay, simpler is better. And in all honesty, I am not a huge fan of cap toes, but this model is amazing and I would wear it/buy it in a heartbeat. Imagine it with a navy or medium gray suit. Those combinations, to me, make more sense than paring them with a set of brown shoes, but where can you find a beautiful burgundy shoe under $800? I promise you that on my first collection, my burgundy wholecuts (pictured left) will be available for all of the burgundy lovers out there!!

Pictures Provided By: Leffot

Today's Favorites - Alfred Sargent

If there is one thing that I lack in the wardrobe, it is monk straps, and I am so sorry to say it because I really, really like them. And as much as I am not a fan of just a boring black shoe, I think that an elegant black monk strap is as about as good as it gets when it comes to all black shoes. Yet, strange enough, I don't own one. I guess that I will have to fix that! But this model here, by Alfred Sargent, is absolutely beautiful! The colors, the patina, the look, the cut, the monk, everything is spot on nice. This traditional British monk strap style is probably my favorite among all of the options that you can create when making a monk strap. And just now thinking about it, it is probably because of it's 'closed' look. Most monks are considered a 'derby' but this one, where the strap's opening is on the side of the shoe, for me that makes it more of a 'balmoral/oxford' than a 'derby.' And because of that, it is more sleek looking, there is more open space on the shoe, not occupied by stitching, straps, openings etc. Having just made a monk strap myself, I am set for a little while, but I will definitely be looking to get a nice black one, hopefully soon!

Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot