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Showing posts with label Corthay 'Wilfred'. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Corthay 'Wilfred'. Show all posts

Monday, 21 May 2012

The Beauty Of Made To Order Shoes

Gaziano & Girling St. James II, Courtesy of Zimmermann & Kim

Have you ever seen the coolest shoe ever, only that it came in just black or just brown or just some other color that you really didn't fancy, or just thought was plain boring. I have....about a million times. And what did you do when this happened? Probably nothing, because what could you do, especially if this brand did not have any custom offerings program, more simply known as MTO. Well, for me that is a shame, because the person gets all worked up, only to be left disappointed in the long run. Now, that doesn't mean that every brand in the whole world should have MTO, because it really depends on the factory that produces their shoes, how low they want to make their minimum order and for how much of a mark-up in price (for each shoe) they want to do this at. Some brands don't have a choice, some do. But the ones that do, for me, have a great advantage because the more that time goes on the more that I feel that there are higher numbers of people like me who simply are not satisfied with the common offering available. They want something unique, something that no one else has, something that other people go 'WOW' at.... And if they are creative enough, the executioin of MTO can do this just for them...























































Many Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot and L'atelier du Chausseur

I put every picture that I have of the Corthay Wilfred above here....how many do you think came as a stock color offering? Probably about 2 or 3, maximum. But how many of them blow you away? Many none, maybe all of them? Maybe you are the guy that just wants a black or brown shoe? Who knows. But nevertheless, the beauty of MTO is that it allows for the designers/shoemaker to offer a much broader selection of his work. And because of this, the designer may actually be happier. I say this because a concoction that is created by the customer might resonate closer to what the designer would ideally like to make, as opposed to what he actually does, which will most likely be what the 'average consumer' wants. I will be honest with you, when I first thought about starting my shoe line, I just wanted to make extremely unique shoes, much like the bespoke ones that I have made, but as the time gets closer to launching, the more that I realize that I cannot just make what I like, but have to appeal to majority. But fret not, because I am bold enough to take the risk of doing a happy medium by creating things that mix between what I want to see in the market, but also what I believe could appeal to the masses.

G & G, Courtesy of Zimmermann & Kim

Saint Crispins, Courtesy of The Armoury

Edward Green, Courtesy of Leather Soul (I believe)


The only real downfalls of Made To Order shoes, is the amount of time that it usually takes to receive them (which requires a lot of patience) and the possibility of creating something ugly that you will then be stuck with. The second fright will really just be up to you and your idea of pairing colors and/or leathers. But the time constraint, albeit frustrating, is really out of many makers hands. If you think about it in a logical business sense (which every company has to), the factory will always want to put the order of 1000 pairs of shoes, before the order of 1 or 2 MTOs. It would be ideal if each factory just had a section that was strictly for MTO shoes, but that would most likely not be practical without a guarantee of about 100 orders/month, if not more. Therefore, as this will most likely never be the case, the only real downfall to getting a shoe that you customized, is the time that you have to wait for it. But like most good things in life, they are usually worth waiting for....











Monday, 4 July 2011

Corthay 'Wilfred'


From self-taught shoe design to dabbling in pattern making, I have truly learned to love and appreciate the details and complexities of a shoe's style/pattern/design and how the most minute of details, can truly make one shoe stand out from another. Probably the shoe/style that I appreciate the most, out of every shoe that I have ever seen, is the Wilfred by Corthay. You may look at it and think that it's not that special and that many shoes have been designed just like it, but that is precisely what you should think, 'shoes that are kind of like it' but not exactly like it. The galosh look (having a separate piece leather starting at the facing and extending to the heel) is something that has been done by virtually every bespoke shoemaker, and has trickled down into their RTW line, to become a popular style that you see worn by many, think the Kent by G&G. But never before had someone altered the line, that goes from the bottom of the laces to the heel, to give it this detailed look of the outline of a bouncing ball, until Corthay.






As you can see by all of the pictures, a style, so simple in it's concept -- a two piece -- can literally create an unthinkable amount of pairings simply by altering the leather color and the material used, let alone all of the small things like lace & stitch coloring, as well as burnishing. What is impressive, is the fact that Pierre Corthay has actually created more color options in one style, than I have ever seen before in a dress shoe. The 'Wilfred' is like the Sperry A/O of dress shoes, done season after season, in an array of new color and material arrangements. And why not? When you have created such a signature shoe with a timeless style, such as this, it only makes sense to release it year after year, to give your dedicated shoe fans, not only a new aesthetic look but also a familiar feel. That's smart too, because many men don't like to shy away from familiarity, especially when they are handing over a $1000 per pair. They want to know that the shoe, in a break in or two, is going to fit like a glove, and not give some other model a chance at hurting their feet. But that is just some men.....




















While I could probably write a 10-page essay on the Wilfred and it's greatness, which is impressive considering that I could never write longer than a page, in high school, without going mind blank, I will keep it short to not bore you. Probably the simplest yet most intriguing part of the Wilfred, is actually the stitching, that almost every oxford in the world has, which follows the line of the lacing, on the facing. You can see it best on the picture directly above. In most shoes, you will find that this will be slightly sloped, kind of giving some detail to the shoe, but never have I seen it with the effect of coming to a bottom point and then creating another semi-circle, kind of like a really curvy 'M.' But not only is it stitched quite uniquely, it also continues to follow the top stitch line, going all the way back to the heel. This again, is something that I have never seen, maybe because I was simply not paying attention, or maybe because Corthay, a true artist, understands that the minor details are what create masterpieces and was the first to do this..... But like with all masterpieces, they come at a cost, a very high one...

On another note, but also involving Corthay, is an event that he is hosting from July 10th, for 4 days, that some of you might be interested in.

"Imagined by the prestigious shoemaker Pierre Corthay to honour the “Compagnons du Devoir” and their unique skills, the Excellence Run aims at discovering the heritage of exceptional craftsmanship and at promoting the Masters of their art." -- Parisian Gentleman

To read the full article GO HERE

Pictures from many sources but mainly Leffot and L'Atelier Du Chausseur

All the best,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"