The Best Shoemaker You've Probably Never Heard Of

In light of recent events (emails) and the fact that it would appear that some people are confused as to what I am actually doing, I wish to explain a few things about my first experiences with high end shoes and shoemakers. When I first discovered that I wanted to start my own shoe line, as a business minded individual, I decided that I wanted to learn AS MUCH as I could about shoes, from the retail side, to the manufacturing (both hand and machine), and everything else I could possibly absorb, in order to become a shoe designer that had credibility in regards to truly understanding not only his product, but also his customers. That being, with a business degree in Entrepreneurship from a credible university, I consciously decided to remain in retail to start understanding why men bought shoes and to start understanding why large companies purchased this shoe brand over that one. While I would have much rather been doing other things than lacing up other peoples’ shoes for them, I knew that this would be a way to get one step closer to my goals. And it was because of this step that I actually managed to land the next one, which was undertaking an apprenticeship in bespoke shoemaking with legendary shoemaker , Stefano Bemer, of whom this post is in regards to. 

I therefore packed up my bags and set off for Italy to start learning the art of true handmade shoemaking.  While many of you might think that a lot of my inspiration comes from Corthay, Bestetti, Lobb or Edward Green, it was actually Stefano’s shoes that set the foundation for my taste in shoes, and has been thus progressed by Gaziano & Girling. You see, Stefano Bemer, was very famous in the 80’s and 90’s in Italy, to a point where he was even offered to be purchased by Gucci (of whom he was already consulting for) in order to expand his name and reach. As Stefano is probably one of the only true artists that I know who cares more about leather and shoes than money, he kindly declined the request. Was this a mistake? I don’t know. But I can tell you that because he decided to remain a small artist, many of you have probably never heard of him, or seen the amazing shoes that he actually creates. This is one thing that I actually feel sad about, as I truly believe that his RTW shoes (which are goodyear welted) have the capability to rival all of the greats and possibly even be better than most of them. I don’t say this because I learned under him and therefore feel loyal to him, I say this because it is true. Not only do I have first-hand knowledge of being around them for a long time and handling them but also have owned a pair for 3.5 years that I have worn into the ground without even needing to have a resole (only one re-heel).  

Because I truly believed in Stefano and his product, I set off on an adventure the following summer in order to try and get his shoes into the US market. A lofty goal this was, especially since it was summer 2009 which was right at the beginning of our most recent big recession. That being, I took it upon myself to go and sell luxury products to stores that were cutting back on their inventory. Crazy yes, but necessary nonetheless to learn shoe industry lessons and attempt at building the brand of Stefano Bemer. The problem is that he wanted to come in at John Lobb prices and wasn’t willing to budge on that.  At first I thought that he was being a bit stubborn, but looking back at it now I feel that he was justified, as his product was worth every penny. But needless to say, without strong brand recognition, selling +$1000 to stores during a recession was not happening. Many store buyers seemed impressed with the shoes, but could simply not justify those prices at that time. I can’t say that I blame them either, but it has led to the fact that Stefano’s shoes still do not sell in America and as sad as this is to say, might not ever.  And the downfall to all of this, is the fact that he is a brilliant shoemaker, who shoes are some of the most amazing that I have ever seen and the ones that inspired me and my upcoming collection.

And while the story of Stefano ends there, I will continue on with telling you a bit more about my aspirations and how they have led me up to this point….Upon coming to England, I was in desperate need of work. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to continue with bespoke shoemaking or to try to use my degree to get into a corporate job and start learning the design side of things with some large shoe company. Needless to say, none of those things happened, and when the going got tough, I managed to find this job at Gieves & Hawkes, shining shoes for others. You can imagine that this was a hard blow to my ego, as I was not sure how this was going to help me get closer to my goals, but let me tell you that this job was the ABSOLUTE BEST THING that could have happened to me, a diamond in the rough. Not only did it allow me to be positioned on the most famous street in the world for men’s tailoring (which no doubt correlates with footwear) to help me network and build my Shoe Snob brand, but also allowed me to cut the bullshit and get on with my number #1 priority: STARTING A RTW SHOE LINE! I could have just stuck with working for others and maybe took over someone else’s shoe line or started my own in 20 years, but I don’t have the patience for that. I would rather give it my all now and fail, then wait 20 years just to be ‘secure.’ So that’s what I did. I just started drawing shoes and had planned to go to MICAM in order to find a factory to make them. 

Therefore while many of you think that I should stop shining shoes and go back to ‘shoemaking’ I have to tell you that bespoke shoemaking was never my priority, only a means to an end. It was a way for me to become a shoe company owner who truly understood why his shoes were worth the price. So, I will actually stick with the shoe shining (as I need to pay bills), use that to build my brand awareness (and believe me it does), all while I get this shoe line off of the ground. Obviously, this has been something that I have been talking about for a long time, and because of that some of you may think that I am just putting about and might be ‘lost.’ But in reality the realization of my goals has almost come to fruition, shoe buyers are interested, and like any other start-up company, I have to go make it happen. Nothing comes quick and easy, especially when you are dealing with factories and first collections. So to all of you who doubt me, please continue doing so, because for me it will feel all the better to prove you all wrong. And for those who support me and believe in my goals, I truly thank you. I promise that I will give it my all to not let you down!

And just in case you are tired of the John Lobbs, the Edward Greens or the Berlutis and are looking for a new shoemaker to try out, do me a favor and go to Florence and pick up a pair of Stefano Bemers. I promise that you won’t be disappointed…

To all of those that get direct emails from my blog and therefore do not go to the actual URL, please do check out this link below for my new shoe polishing contest, where you can win prizes.

http://the-shoe-snob.blogspot.com/p/shoe-polishing-monthly-contest.html 

 

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

The Beauty of a Custom Patina

It's my last day in Seattle and therefore I am trying to use my limited time to spend with all of my friends and family, which ultimately meanss that I don't have a lot of time for the blog today. I will do my best tomorrow to have a long post up, but there will not be any guarantees. In the meanwhile, I will leave you with a pair of J.M. Westons' that Paulus Bolten put his magic tough to, creating a beautiful piece of art with this purple patina. While there is much to say on the subject, I think that the picture speaks for itself. No matter where you are in the world, you can take advantage of Paulus' abilities, by sending off your shoes to Paris, and having them sent back! It's worth the price and doesn't take long at all.....

What I Am Wearing

The difference between bespoke vs. non-bespoke is truly astounding. While I may not notice it as I am actually wearing the garments, I see it in this picture, as bad as it may be. The way in which the jacket sits on me, makes all of my RTW and MTM for matter, look like second-third rate rubbish. While I am being a little harsh here, I must admit that that saying, 'once you go bespoke, you will never go back' is truer than truer. Only that my next suit purchase, will most likely not be able to be bespoke, as this was kind of a lucky one off deal that I managed to stumble upon. Might just have to settle for another MTM. Nevertheless, if my pictures can be an example for all of you on the verge of plunging into the bespoke arena, just have a look at the archives, and see how much better this suit looks on me versus all of the rest.....

Shoes: J.FitzPatrick (prototypes for wear-testing)
Suit: Bespoke, cut by Chittleborough & Morgan
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

Today's Favorites - Saint Crispins Saddle Shoe

So, I am back in Seattle feeling a bit strange, almost as if I am a stranger in my own city and am therefore a little bit discombobulated, which has left me unable to conjure something up for my long post on Mondays. Because of this I am leaving you with a tidbit on the ever so amazing Saint Crispins shoe brand, of whom I never seem to tire. Every time I see of new pair of shoes made by them, shown on Rugged Old Salt (as these were), I am always left astounded, particularly when they highlight the details that set them apart, such as the way that they finish their soles. While I am not usually so crazy about the soles' look, especially since it gets destroyed on the first wear, I must say that the way they look in the picture below is absolutely stunning. The manner in which they finished it with that glossy shine looks delicious to say the least. I would almost feel bad wearing these if they were my shoes, I might just want to leave them sole up, face down, as to show off the beauty of the work. Key word though, 'almost'...I would rock until that shine disappeared!

Altan Bottier Beauties!!

Well, it's been another crazy busy day, scrambling around to sort out everything before my big trip home and because of all of this, I am left again without much time to write on the blog. But rest assured, instead of fruitless words, I am going to leave you with some unbelievable shoe porn that will leave you yearning for a pair of Altan shoes. Don't thank me now...it's my pleasure! I might try and squeeze a post out tomorrow before my flight but if not, then I will hopefully be back on Friday....

Today's Favorites - John Lobb Wingtip Brogue

Picture Courtesy of Steps & Style

Today has been a manic day and therefore I will not be writing much, as I don't have a lot of spare time, but in reality, what there is there to say? This pair of John Lobbs (Paris) is absolutely epic, as they always are are....I tell you, that while JLP would not be in my favorite, I can really say that I have ever been less than amazed by the RTW shoes that they make, and the styles that they manage to come up with. They have such slight particularities about them being so subtle that you might not even catch them. One of them would be the fact that the balmoral piece (top) in this shoe is stitched on top of the vamp, as opposed to underneath it as most pattern makers would design it. Subtle, yet distinguishable. Lovely shoe, beautiful in fact. I would wear these proudly.

On another note, I have some news. First, I will be heading back to my lovely hometown of Seattle for two weeks starting on May 24th. This means, that while keeping up with the blog is always one of my highest priorities, it will take a back seat while home. Don't worry though...this just means that instead of 5 posts a week, it might just be 3. Second, I am going to start to hosting 'Polish Contests' whereby, you (the readers) can shine your shoes, send me pics and then I will judge the 10 best, post those on the blog and then let the people decide whom the top 2 will be. They will win prizes. I will be doing this monthly to start and might even make it bi-monthly depending on the popularity of it. That being, start getting prepared and your polish skills in order. I should post this up by June 1st to kick it off.

Be well and to all those enjoying the sun right now, I am jealous of you!

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Carmina - The Spanish Conquistadors

As some of you may remember, a little while back I had the pleasure of being involved in one of The Armoury's trunk shows, located here in London. At that trunk show, I had the first opportunity to truly appreciate the level of shoes that Carmina produces. Prior to this, I was always hearing about Carmina shoes but never really had the ability to judge them for myself, other than shining an old pair for a customer (but that doesn't really count!). As I had always heard positive things about them, you can imagine that I was quite curious to see what all the hype was about. Little did I know that I was going to be in for a big surprise.

Upon arriving at the trunk show, I was met with the display of shoes that you see at the top of this post. Being the 'little kid in the candy shop' that I can be, I was in awe of almost every pair and began touching, analyzing, smelling the leather and pretty much everything else that I could to take in (and mentally record) the shoes' quality. Not long after, the daughter of the present owner (and possibly founder) came in and we began discussing much about the brand, who I was, and my future shoe line (as I was no doubt wearing a pair of my own). She was a very kind woman (who handles much of the business side of things) and it was very nice to actually meet someone from the Albaladejo family, a family that I believe to be synonymous with high quality footwear.

Even though I was not in the market to buy anything (as I need another shoe like I need a hole in the head), I couldn't help but try them on just to see how they measured up to other brands. They had two lasts on hand, one being the Simpson (my favorite - shown here) and the other being the Robert (I believe?? - not found on the website), which was a bit more conservatively elegant and rounded. Both of them fit me surprisingly well. I say that because I have quite a narrow foot and many shoes seem to be a bit spacious on me, yet these were not in least. They were a very sturdy shoe, on the verge of being stiff, but also signifying, for me, a well-made shoe that could last a lifetime! Not only were they well made, but very comfortable in the fitting as well i.e. in the way that they hugged my arch. I felt supported properly, something that is quite important when buying leather soled dress shoes that you might spend a whole day in.

I have said this before, and I am going to say it again: shoes made in Spain are on their way up. They can make shoes that are just as good as their English counterparts, at least within the mid-range of high end footwear, think Crockett & Jones and comparable. Carminas, for me rival C&J Hangrade, but cost a whole lot less, significantly less, and I dare might say that while the leathers they use might be a bit stiffer, their level of making just might rival an entry level Edward Green. I know this is bold to say, but I can't help but tell you that it is true. As the Spanish continue to make footwear and climb the echelons of quality, I dare to say that one day you will find them rivaling the best of them, being able to produce handgrade footwear with all of the bells and whistles that separate the lates from the greats! Mark my word....

Carmina Shoes Available Online: Here or at
The Amoury

It's Just Me And My Pink Laces!

Some might call this overkill, others might call it brilliant, I just call it being bored from conservatism and wanting to do something about it! Because every now and then, an outfit needs a injection of fun color to liven it up a bit....and as I have said before, a touch of extravagant lacing helps to meet that need. Most people go for the classic red laces but as I had a tie that matched with my shoes (+ the pink laces), I thought 'what the heck, why not?!' The problem with pink though, is that too much of it (especially in a bright shade) starts to create an effect that becomes undesirable to the eye. But when done in control and used as an accent, I quite enjoy the idea of pink being incorporated into one's outfit.

For those that feel the same, yet can't find the laces to complete the outfit, check out my eBay store.

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me.
Suit: Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Tie: DKNY

Shoe Photography - Capturing The Right Light

Picture Courtesy of The Style Buff

There is no light like natural light when it comes to shoe photography. But then again, even with that you will need the right camera. Time and time again, pictures will misrepresent the true beauty of a shoe. I know this better than anyone as I take pictures with my cell phone all of the time and due to that, nice shoes end up looking like junk. But this also can work the other way, where the photographer was so brilliant that they were able to make a crap shoe look good. This shoe, by Bocache e Salvucci, managed to get that brilliant photography treatment. It would appear that this shoe was given a mirror like glass shine, but I think that instead, it was just given a really good overall shine, but managed to capitalize on the amazing light that was out that day. Nevertheless, it was already a good looking shoe, just made to look even better. Time again, I give a mirror like glass shine to a shoe, snap a picture of it, and it looks dull. Go figure....but then again, photography has NEVER been my strong suit....unfortunate as that is considering that I write a blog that requires some use of it.....

Today's Favorites - Gaziano & Girling Saddle Loafers

There is nothing quite like a nice loafer. They are so versatile and pleasing simply for the fact that you don't have to bend over to tie them. I mean, what more could you really ask for? It's laziness at its finest! If you must though, then allow me to elaborate....They go great with jeans, amazing with chinos, workable with suits, and pretty much every other trouser that you can think of....And I really never realized how much I liked them until one day I finally had all of my shoes together, was looking for a brown oxford and realized that I did not have hardly any.....just a bunch of dang loafers! Not that I am complaining by any means, but just found it quite funny especially since my heel is so narrow which makes for a hard loafer fit. But I think that my appreciation for them exploded times 10 when I saw these bad boys by Gaziano & Girling. They are absolutely stunning and signify the beauty of the Made-To-Order idea. Made from the Joyce pattern, on the Deco last with a polo suede upper makes this one of those shoes, that if they were made for me, would get a regrettable amount of wear, and that being a good thing....regrettable because I would wear them into the ground!.....To the client that ordered them: GOOD CHOICE!

Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot

Balancing Your Outfit

Expensive suits, crap shoes (with the exception of Colin Farrell, who looks to have some decent ones)

Everything has its place, whether it's cheap shoes, expensive suits, mediocre shirts, wrinkled trousers etc., but too often do you see a lot of men jumbling them all together in a way that does not make sense. There are ways to mix and match them, get away with it and still look relatively good. Take me for example, often I wear cheap shirts purchased at Primark, and then pair them with expensive suits and shoes. Most of the time, no one notices, but I can tell you that there is a difference, and I can see it, as well as feel it. When I look at my colleagues £100+ shirts, their collars and quality of shirt material look infinitely better than mine. Granted, I do this on purpose as I deal with polish all day long, particularly black polish, which I will have you know is very hard to get off of a white shirt, and therefore don't want to wear nice shirts that I will constantly run the risk of ruining. And since the collars have built in stiffeners, they usually look decent enough....allowing me to balance my outfit, as the other articles of clothing within my outfit tend to correlate in price. But the other day, I made the mistake of wearing a very nice suit, with some shoes that did not correlate, in price, quality, or look and realized that so many men do this, and ruin their entire look, as I had.

Expensive Suit, cheap shoes = no good

Expensive suit, expensive shoes = good

For the life of me, I can't understand why most men will fork out loads of money on their suits but then will only want to spend 1/5 of that on their shoes. I mean, if you can afford a £1000 suit, then certainly you can afford £400+ shoes. For me, the rule would be that you should spend half of what you are giving for your suit, on your shoes. Just to clarify, if your suit is £1000, then ideally (in my twisted mind) your shoes should be cost around £500. This way, you maintain a good balance in your outfit, because it is so amazingly noticeable when someone is wearing a decent suit with the crappiest £100 shoes. When you do this, you stick out like a sore thumb and no matter how nice or expensive your suit is, your shoes just kill the entire outfit. However, there are ways to fool people as some shoes can look real good and expensive but not be. For example, when you shine a shoe up, that has a decent leather but be a mid range shoe, you could easily pass it off as something of higher quality due to the maintenance that you have given it. It is surprising how a shine can make a shoe look so much more expensive than it actually is. But this will require a bit of knowledge in knowing what is able to get there and what isn't, as a cheap leather won't look good no matter how high you shine it.

Photo Courtesy of Rugged Old Salt

Both Shoes by Spigola by Koji Suzuki, Photos courtesy of Rugged Old Salt

NOT  THESE BELOW

Now, the buck doesn't stop with incorrect price correlation within your articles of clothing, but also needs to take into account the types of styles that you are putting together. What I mean by this is the act mixing trendy attire with classic attire, certain Italian shoes with English suits etc. If you have a nice Savile Row suit with a very English cut, it would look absolutely silly to pair it with some ostentatious trendy designer shoe by LV or Gucci. They just don't go...and that's not to say that the English cut suit has to go with English made shoes, because that's not the case either. It's about matching styles. Elegant for elegant, trendy with trendy. When you start to blur the lines a bit too much, you throw off the balance of your outfit and thus your look. Obviously there are some style icons who can do this and get away with it, but it's very difficult to do. If you are wearing a very slim cut Italian suit with soft lines, then don't be afraid to wear your Ferragamo tassel loafers....but then you would want to sTay away from some heavy, double-soled British brogue. Like for like, in style and price, will allow you to keep a good balance in your outfit at all times.