What I Am Wearing

The difference between bespoke vs. non-bespoke is truly astounding. While I may not notice it as I am actually wearing the garments, I see it in this picture, as bad as it may be. The way in which the jacket sits on me, makes all of my RTW and MTM for matter, look like second-third rate rubbish. While I am being a little harsh here, I must admit that that saying, 'once you go bespoke, you will never go back' is truer than truer. Only that my next suit purchase, will most likely not be able to be bespoke, as this was kind of a lucky one off deal that I managed to stumble upon. Might just have to settle for another MTM. Nevertheless, if my pictures can be an example for all of you on the verge of plunging into the bespoke arena, just have a look at the archives, and see how much better this suit looks on me versus all of the rest.....

Shoes: J.FitzPatrick (prototypes for wear-testing)
Suit: Bespoke, cut by Chittleborough & Morgan
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

Shoe Sizing.....Yet Another Thing To Work Out

Photo Courtesy Of: Big In Japan

Most of you probably think that I am some kind of chord stuck on repeat, with all of the posts I have about my shoes this and my shoes that, but I'll truly tell you, if ever you have been involved in the production of a new product, it takes a whole lot longer than one might imagine to get it up to scratch. Granted, some people may rush this out and have it out in no time, but if you are entering a market that is a bit saturated, you are going to want to make sure that your product differentiates itself the best that it can, so that it does not get lost in that sea of monotonous product, but rather stands out like the breath of fresh air that everyone needed. Now, in no way am I guaranteeing that my product line will be that breath of fresh air for you, but you can bet that I am doing my best to make sure that it is as close as possible in every which way: from style, to fit, to quality/price ratio etc. First and foremost, I had to get the style (patterns) and last shapes right, because inelegant and/or ugly shoes just won't sell no matter what the case. And now that I have this pretty much sorted out, my next hurdle is to make sure that I get the sizing right, not only in how I label my sizes (making sure that my 10 does not fit like an 11), but also in how I offer my range i.e. 7UK-11UK.

The difficult thing about sizing is that most countries have their own way of calculating it, thus creating a bit of confusion for many consumers that are trying to make an international purchase. For example, if you go to Japan, a lot of their shoes are measured in centimeters. If you are American (or are also on the imperial system), you are going to have a tough time figuring out your size without having to measure your feet, and vice versa for people from Japan coming to the UK or US. Now this becomes an even bigger problem when calculating the width sizing as well, and then imagine having to buy online....it's a mess, and can create a lot of confusion for both the customer and supplier. Every now and then, you can find quite an accurate chart (like the one below), that will differentiate for you what one size might convert to in another system, but even this means nothing in reality, because what it really boils down to is how the shoemaker/designer decided to label his stock lasts. For instance, my "UK7E" last (which would should equate to a US 8D, or about EU40.5) in reality, fits like a UK7EE (which should then equate to a US8E, and bump up to a 41). Now, I could keep my shoes labeled as UK7E and just have them be a shoe that runs a bit on the generous size, or label them a UK7EE, and be standard. Now, funny enough, while they do not look wide by any means, having that "EE" would deter many Americans from buying them, because in their mind, that signifies quite a wide fitting shoe, even though my shoes are not wide, just a bit generous.

So what I am doing now, in order to get this right, is having my shoes made up for me (keeping the way that they are now) in a 6.5E, but then also having them pretend as if my 7E is really a EE, duplicating it and then shaving off one width to make it an actual 7E. That way, I can compare and hopefully get an accurate account of what they really are. But someone who has a bit more experience in English fitting shoes told me that right now, they would compare my width to a C&J 'EX' fitting, which would be in between an E and an F. This is not exactly what I had in mind when making the shoes, but I know that this fitting is quite appreciated by the English people whom tend to have a broader forefoot, and high insteps. But that being, while deciding my sizes (and how to label them), I have to take into account, not just the English gentleman, but everyone else. So, as I continue to explain each predicament that I come across, I hope that you can now more easily understand why my range has yet to be released, even though I have been talking about it forever now....

Just because I know that you all hope to see new shoes when reading the blog, I will show you another color combination that I am offering my balmoral boot in:

Balmoral Boot Porn

I was never quite the biggest fan of pairing black with a burgundy and/or an oxblood/merlot type of color, but I must admit that the more that I studied this prototype of mine (for wear-testing), the more that the combination of colors grew on me. Having friends and colleagues try it on, wearing jeans, suits, dress casual trousers etc., the more that I felt that these colors actually go quite nice together. It never presented itself as being too dressy for one thing, yet too casual for another. Meaning, that when my colleague tried it on with his navy suit, I felt that it complemented the outfit quite well and when tried on underneath a pair of jeans, it happened to smarten up the outfit. That being, while it's contrast is subtle and not in the least ostentatious, it still provides a great deal of pleasure to the eye, overcoming the monotony of two colors too close in tone. I am still not sure if this will be a colorway that I offer for my first collection, but nevertheless, I am now pleased to have at least had it made up, which gave me the chance to absorb its subtle yet elegant contrast....

What I Am Wearing

Before coming to England, I can wholeheartedly admit that I did not have a clue about suits and good tailoring. I used to even work in a place that sold (what I believed to be) nice suits but after seeing the quality of the cuts and tailors here on the Row (as we snobs like to call it), I now realize that what I used to see in the States was like a top sirloin from the grocery store and now I am dabbling in the Kobe beef from a 5-star restaurant. It's absolutely amazing what a good tailor can not only do for your figure, but for your whole image, and here at Gieves, we have someone who is rumored to be among the best and considering some of the things that I have seen him do, I don't doubt it! And in this new found passion of mine (whereby I am selling my personal shoes to buy more suits), I have come to love a nice double-breasted suit. Something about it just really appeals to me even though I am quite sure that I may not have the stature for them, as I am not the tallest of guys. Nevertheless, I don't care and will continue to pick up more and more of them, in every color I can! I must admit though, that my next order of suiting, is unfortunately not a DB, but rather a lovely navy flannel, peak lapel, single button suit and I can't wait to get it!!

Shoes: J.FitzPatrick design, Gaziano & Girling produced
Suit: Gieves (older label)
Shirt: TK Maxx
Tie: Robert Talbott, Best Of Class

Some More J. FitzPatrick Prototypes....!

Dear Readers,

I have finally received the rest of my prototypes, adjusted up to this point, and am feeling a whole lot better about the way that my line is taking shape. At this moment, the shoes are finally done with all of the pattern adjustments, which takes up the majority of the prototype work. Now, I just have to finalize the minute details like lining & sole colors, perfecting the medallion (placing on shoe and style), making sure that the shoes (patterns) are consistent with one another (when using the same pattern on two different lasts) and have them wear tested by a trusted expert who can give me constructive feedback on fit and comfort. I assume that I will need to take one more trip to my factory, sort out the rest of the work and have them re-made one more time for the final prototypes to become complete. I am thinking (best case scenario) that this will be sometime in May/June that I will receive them back. At that point, I can't say whether or not my shoes will be ready for A/W 2012 release. I guess that it will depend on who takes them and how fast we can sort the business stuff out. Nevertheless, please know that I am doing everything that I can to make sure that the shoes come out quickly, but that the shoes are also going to look good and hold the integrity of the price that they will be selling at.

(Toe shape more accurate looking to picture on right)

When looking at the pictures, try to bear in mind that I took these very fast (just to show all of you) and right after they came out of the shipping box. So, if they look a little rough around the edges, that's because they are, as I did not do anything to enhance their look, especially as they are all just prototypes that will not be apart of my true finalized samples. At this point, I have shown you just a little over half of the collection, and mostly all of the straight forward stuff. There are still about 6 styles that I am going to leave until the prototypes are completely finalized. I do this first and foremost, because I would like to leave a bit of excitement and anticipation in the air and partly because I do not wish to release all of my ideas to some of the people that read this blog (i.e. other shoe brands, designers etc.) before they are ready to be released to the world. Just so that you know, allow me to go over what I have showed you and what will be left for later.

What I have shown you: Cap toe oxford, saddle oxford brogue, penny loafer, chukka boot (in pointy last), plain toe quarter brogue with medallion (in black leather on pointy last and suede version on round last), Prince Albert wholecut loafer and derby with piping.

What I haven't shown you: Balmoral boot, double monk strap, chukka boot (in round last with heavy sole), derby without piping, oxford saddle shoe, oxford wholecut with brogueing, and jodhpur boot.

What I am hoping from all of you, as I want to involve you in this whole process, is to start thinking about the models that I have showed you and to give me your thoughts on what colors you would love to see them in. When the prototypes are all finalized, I will put them up for a week or so, in order to let all of you give your top picks for color options. But, as a way to get that process going now, in order to speed things up, I would be more than happy to have you list them in the comments section below. Bare in mind that I will have to look at all of the comments and make a decision based on what is most feasible, sellable and popular.

For the derby shoe below, I am still very unsure about the piping that I originally thought would look good. I know that it is not for the common individual, but thought that it would pose as something fun for the shoe lover that wants something a bit different. Obviously, this derby will also come without the piping, but when making prototypes, I believe that you should make the craziest things first to know what they look like. It's easy to imagine it without the piping but would be difficult to understand how it looks with it, without having seen it. So please, tell me what you all think. If I keep it in the collection, it will most likely be a one-off anyway.

I hope that all of you are enjoying watching the progress of my shoe line, as it unfolds and are also enjoying the product that I have created thus far. Do know that there is still more to come, some fun stuff too, the stuff that you would expect to see from me, after all this time of talking about colors, details etc... But I want to save it until later so you will just have to trust that it is there...

Thanks to everyone who has supported me and who eagerly awaits the release of my shoe line...

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

J. FitzPatrick Shoe Line Progression

Getting a company up and running may be just one of the most difficult things in the world, particularly when there are products involved that have to be produced by someone else. Naturally, being naive, you may somewhat underestimate the amount of time that it takes to actually even begin (as I have) which will then set you up for a crash course in zen-like patience, as you twiddle your thumbs each day waiting for that email/call telling you that your products are done. This is what I am going through now; counting the days, the minutes, the seconds until I have my finalized prototypes in my hands, which will then allow me to go sell them to the world, and even better yet, see them on other people's feet. It's amazing to even think about the possibility of that coming to fruition. But until this point, I am here, trying to sort the things out that I am working on, e.g. The Shoe Snob website (not blog) where I will then sell all of my accessories off of as well as offer shoe-related services. Planning, planning, planning and then executing is what my days consist of... So when I do see a shoe here or there, you can imagine how excited I become, as that feeling of progression takes over and fills me with joy!

(Colors most accurate from these two photos below)

As you can see, there are two new shoes here, both of which are in my size for trial wearing. Just in case some of you may be wondering what that means, it is intended so that I can test my shoes to make sure that the last and patterns are right, the width is good and everything functions like a proper shoe. For these trial pairs, I chose color options that might not be put into production, but gives me a good idea of how they would look. The cap-toe model in suede is the same pattern as the tan cap-toe (pictured way below) that I first released pictures of. The other shoe is an example of the 3rd last that I will be using, a more pointed one originating from the shape of my bespoke models (although not as pointy). Looking at it you will also see my very own medallion that I will be using for my first collection. However, it's still a bit rough around the edges and needs some minute detailing in order for it to be finalized (such as making sure that holes are not missing, as one is!).

While I still can't put a date on when my shoes will be ready for sale, I can at least hope to say that my prototypes will be ready for action by no later than April. But after they are ready, then begins the tough stuff, like working out all of the financial details and the tedious things such as boxes and what will come with each pair of shoes purchased. It's all a very long process, one that sometimes leaves me drained and feeling that it will never end and I will be forever "trying" to start my shoe line. While I know that this is not actually the case, as I am so close to my end goal, the anticipation of it all, from years of envisioning, makes each day get harder and harder. But what makes it easier is the people like you (the readers), who give me that imaginary pat on the back, supporting me the entire way. Thank you for the support and I hope that you enjoy the process and my new test shoes.

(The other prototypes, just to have them all on one page)

Unique Shoe Designs

Shoe Above: J.FitzPatrick

When talking about designing shoes, I commonly hear the expression, "Everything under the sun has been done." And while I generally tend to agree with it (on a grand scale), I still believe that there are little tweaks that can be done to a shoe, here and there, that will minutely (and yet immensely) separate it from all of the rest. For instance, the shoe above which is another one of my prototypes, has a penny strap that extends all the way back to the heel. This was something that I had never seen before, yet had always wondered what it might look like, being that I like to use multiple materials in my shoes. I wanted to be able to mix it up somehow, having the strap be a different material than the rest of the shoe. At first, I wanted to hold this close to my chest, as it was a unique design and did not want anyone ripping me off before I could release my line, but as I have been blabbing for 2 years now about getting this line off of the ground, and doing so has been slower than I had anticipated, I couldn't help but show this to all of you to let you know that things are truly still in the motions.....slowly but surely!

Clearly I am not the only one that has done a unique design. Almost every maker does one in some way or another whether it is with a row of stitching and how it is positioned, the colors and/or materials that they may use, or how one might change the aesthetics of one of the pieces of the pattern (cap/quarter/vamp etc.). You will find it in the subtle details that will define that makers style. Sometimes these things can be hard to spot, sometimes they are quite obvious. Nevertheless, they are always nice for me (so long as it's not overbearingly ostentatious) as it then represents a new way to do a shoe.... I remember back in 2006, the first time that I ever saw a Gaziano & Girling shoe, in Robb Report magazine. I can't say for sure, but I think it was either the Gable or the Regent, and it was the first time that I had ever seen that pointed (^-shaped) toe cap. Back then, I wasn't so knowledgeable about shoes, as it was really the beginning point for me in the fine footwear industry, so you can imagine how blown away I was to see something so unique when all I had previously known was the Allen Edmonds Park Avenue, as it was the end-all-be-all shoe in America. And even though I can't pinpoint the exact model that it was, the moment was still so vivid for me, as it represented the day that I truly chose to go after my dreams, telling myself that I wanted to emulate G&G by making good quality shoes that stood out from the rest (in terms of design).

Corthay - Unique stitch design on facing & bottom hole punch

Jan Kielman - Unique stitching leading to back of heel

Imai Hiroki - oxford like slip-on

Marc Guyot - stitching and strap unique

Along with dress boots being something that I predict will be big in the next year or two, I also predict that you will see more and more makers trying their hardest to come out with designs that separate themselves from the rest. Clearly this is obvious, because you could not just come out with a line doing shoes that simply look like everyone else's (and be successful) but more in the way that designers/makers, I feel, will more and more try and give little twists to existing classics. Classics are classics for a reason but that does not mean that they are already perfected....little minute details could make a classic better than it already is...of course, this will always be in the humble opinion of the eye of the beholder. But nevertheless, for me, it is always extremely fascinating to see how a designer interprets a shoe with his unique design. That my friends is (to me) the most interesting thing about the shoe industry....seeing how interpretations differ. Hence the reason why each country has their own individual look when it comes to their shoes!

Saint Crispins - All around design is unique

Saion - design on facing/coloring the sole

J.M. Weston - all around design, many things mixed together

Altan Bottier - Point on tongue of shoe