Showing posts with label Two Toned Shoes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Two Toned Shoes. Show all posts
Wednesday, 30 May 2012
What I Am Wearing
The difference between bespoke vs. non-bespoke is truly astounding. While I may not notice it as I am actually wearing the garments, I see it in this picture, as bad as it may be. The way in which the jacket sits on me, makes all of my RTW and MTM for matter, look like second-third rate rubbish. While I am being a little harsh here, I must admit that that saying, 'once you go bespoke, you will never go back' is truer than truer. Only that my next suit purchase, will most likely not be able to be bespoke, as this was kind of a lucky one off deal that I managed to stumble upon. Might just have to settle for another MTM. Nevertheless, if my pictures can be an example for all of you on the verge of plunging into the bespoke arena, just have a look at the archives, and see how much better this suit looks on me versus all of the rest.....
Shoes: J.FitzPatrick (prototypes for wear-testing)
Suit: Bespoke, cut by Chittleborough & Morgan
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Gieves & Hawkes
Monday, 28 May 2012
Today's Favorites - Saint Crispins Saddle Shoe
So, I am back in Seattle feeling a bit strange, almost as if I am a stranger in my own city and am therefore a little bit discombobulated, which has left me unable to conjure something up for my long post on Mondays. Because of this I am leaving you with a tidbit on the ever so amazing Saint Crispins shoe brand, of whom I never seem to tire. Every time I see of new pair of shoes made by them, shown on Rugged Old Salt (as these were), I am always left astounded, particularly when they highlight the details that set them apart, such as the way that they finish their soles. While I am not usually so crazy about the soles' look, especially since it gets destroyed on the first wear, I must say that the way they look in the picture below is absolutely stunning. The manner in which they finished it with that glossy shine looks delicious to say the least. I would almost feel bad wearing these if they were my shoes, I might just want to leave them sole up, face down, as to show off the beauty of the work. Key word though, 'almost'...I would rock until that shine disappeared!
Friday, 25 May 2012
Shoes Of The Week - Gaziano & Girling Astaire
So I am in LA for a two day pit stop before heading back to Seattle, and am loving the feeling of being back in the States. Don't get me wrong, I love London, but as saying goes, there is nothing like home. Nevertheless, as promised I am back on the computer writing to all of you about shoes, and what better than to write about my favorite model by Gaziano & Girling, the Astaire. When I decided to get a pair of G&G's and wanted to do so as an MTO, I knew that I was going to get the Astaire, but just didn't know what colors that I wanted to get it in, as the options were literally endless. In the long run, I let my favorites get the best of me and just decided to go with midnight blue leather on top of navy blue suede. Not very creative, but I did really want a nice blue oxford and what better than to do so on a beautiful G&G.....However I quite enjoyed seeing what the gentlemen who purchased these two models managed to come up with. Granted, the brown pair is not too far off than what the Astaire comes stock in but if you look carefully he put in on the GG06 last and added a double sole. But the gray and black one is the business!! It reminds me of a shoe that might have come out of the Victorian era, but nicer! Anyway, I always love to see what people come up with for their MTO orders and there are not many better sites than Leffot (owner of the pictures) to do this!
See you back on Monday for a long post!!
Labels:
Astaire,
Brogues,
English shoemakers,
Gaziano and Girling,
made to order shoes,
Spectators,
Two Toned Shoes,
Wingtips
Monday, 21 May 2012
The Beauty Of Made To Order Shoes
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| Gaziano & Girling St. James II, Courtesy of Zimmermann & Kim |
Have you ever seen the coolest shoe ever, only that it came in just black or just brown or just some other color that you really didn't fancy, or just thought was plain boring. I have....about a million times. And what did you do when this happened? Probably nothing, because what could you do, especially if this brand did not have any custom offerings program, more simply known as MTO. Well, for me that is a shame, because the person gets all worked up, only to be left disappointed in the long run. Now, that doesn't mean that every brand in the whole world should have MTO, because it really depends on the factory that produces their shoes, how low they want to make their minimum order and for how much of a mark-up in price (for each shoe) they want to do this at. Some brands don't have a choice, some do. But the ones that do, for me, have a great advantage because the more that time goes on the more that I feel that there are higher numbers of people like me who simply are not satisfied with the common offering available. They want something unique, something that no one else has, something that other people go 'WOW' at.... And if they are creative enough, the executioin of MTO can do this just for them...














Many Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot and L'atelier du Chausseur
I put every picture that I have of the Corthay Wilfred above here....how many do you think came as a stock color offering? Probably about 2 or 3, maximum. But how many of them blow you away? Many none, maybe all of them? Maybe you are the guy that just wants a black or brown shoe? Who knows. But nevertheless, the beauty of MTO is that it allows for the designers/shoemaker to offer a much broader selection of his work. And because of this, the designer may actually be happier. I say this because a concoction that is created by the customer might resonate closer to what the designer would ideally like to make, as opposed to what he actually does, which will most likely be what the 'average consumer' wants. I will be honest with you, when I first thought about starting my shoe line, I just wanted to make extremely unique shoes, much like the bespoke ones that I have made, but as the time gets closer to launching, the more that I realize that I cannot just make what I like, but have to appeal to majority. But fret not, because I am bold enough to take the risk of doing a happy medium by creating things that mix between what I want to see in the market, but also what I believe could appeal to the masses.
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| G & G, Courtesy of Zimmermann & Kim |
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| Saint Crispins, Courtesy of The Armoury |
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| Edward Green, Courtesy of Leather Soul (I believe) |
The only real downfalls of Made To Order shoes, is the amount of time that it usually takes to receive them (which requires a lot of patience) and the possibility of creating something ugly that you will then be stuck with. The second fright will really just be up to you and your idea of pairing colors and/or leathers. But the time constraint, albeit frustrating, is really out of many makers hands. If you think about it in a logical business sense (which every company has to), the factory will always want to put the order of 1000 pairs of shoes, before the order of 1 or 2 MTOs. It would be ideal if each factory just had a section that was strictly for MTO shoes, but that would most likely not be practical without a guarantee of about 100 orders/month, if not more. Therefore, as this will most likely never be the case, the only real downfall to getting a shoe that you customized, is the time that you have to wait for it. But like most good things in life, they are usually worth waiting for....
Monday, 14 May 2012
Carmina - The Spanish Conquistadors
As some of you may remember, a little while back I had the pleasure of being involved in one of The Armoury's trunk shows, located here in London. At that trunk show, I had the first opportunity to truly appreciate the level of shoes that Carmina produces. Prior to this, I was always hearing about Carmina shoes but never really had the ability to judge them for myself, other than shining an old pair for a customer (but that doesn't really count!). As I had always heard positive things about them, you can imagine that I was quite curious to see what all the hype was about. Little did I know that I was going to be in for a big surprise.

Upon arriving at the trunk show, I was met with the display of shoes that you see at the top of this post. Being the 'little kid in the candy shop' that I can be, I was in awe of almost every pair and began touching, analyzing, smelling the leather and pretty much everything else that I could to take in (and mentally record) the shoes' quality. Not long after, the daughter of the present owner (and possibly founder) came in and we began discussing much about the brand, who I was, and my future shoe line (as I was no doubt wearing a pair of my own). She was a very kind woman (who handles much of the business side of things) and it was very nice to actually meet someone from the Albaladejo family, a family that I believe to be synonymous with high quality footwear.
Even though I was not in the market to buy anything (as I need another shoe like I need a hole in the head), I couldn't help but try them on just to see how they measured up to other brands. They had two lasts on hand, one being the Simpson (my favorite - shown here) and the other being the Robert (I believe?? - not found on the website), which was a bit more conservatively elegant and rounded. Both of them fit me surprisingly well. I say that because I have quite a narrow foot and many shoes seem to be a bit spacious on me, yet these were not in least. They were a very sturdy shoe, on the verge of being stiff, but also signifying, for me, a well-made shoe that could last a lifetime! Not only were they well made, but very comfortable in the fitting as well i.e. in the way that they hugged my arch. I felt supported properly, something that is quite important when buying leather soled dress shoes that you might spend a whole day in.


I have said this before, and I am going to say it again: shoes made in Spain are on their way up. They can make shoes that are just as good as their English counterparts, at least within the mid-range of high end footwear, think Crockett & Jones and comparable. Carminas, for me rival C&J Hangrade, but cost a whole lot less, significantly less, and I dare might say that while the leathers they use might be a bit stiffer, their level of making just might rival an entry level Edward Green. I know this is bold to say, but I can't help but tell you that it is true. As the Spanish continue to make footwear and climb the echelons of quality, I dare to say that one day you will find them rivaling the best of them, being able to produce handgrade footwear with all of the bells and whistles that separate the lates from the greats! Mark my word....
Carmina Shoes Available Online: Here or at
The Amoury
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