The Next Big Trend: Colored Chukka Boots

Picture Courtesy of Septieme Largeur

Year after year, there are new trends in the shoe industry, some of which are great and some of which are crap. I believe that the next big one that you will start to see popping up from brand after brand, is colored chukka boots. Some companies have already started leading the way by bringing them out in their current collections, and others I know will soon follow. I happen to be quite excited about it, as I think that there aren't many better shoes options than a nice chukka boot, and colored suede just makes it all that more appealing in my opinion. I mean, even though I love my cigar suede ones, it gets a bit tiresome only being able to choose from the 57 shades of browns that you usually see them in. And who is to say that the dark green suede that you see done by Carmina (shown below) would not be just as versatile as it's brown alternative? If you are going to wear them with jeans or even khakis, that forest green is going to complement them beautifully!

Carmina, Picture Courtesy of Rugged Old Salt

Carmina, Picture Courtesy of The Armoury Blog

The more that I spend time in the shoe industry, and being constantly exposed to shoes and all of the different models, the more that I internally battle myself in deciding what my favorites are. One day it's a saddle shoe, next day it's a penny loafer, then a brogue etc. But the more that I do this, the more that I find myself truly liking chukka boots. Granted, I have always been a fan ever since Stefano Bemer gave me a pair and I wore it all over Italy (and everywhere else for that matter). That boot alone has given me such an appreciation for them, as I have experienced first hand the never-ending versatility of them. But I feel that I need to graduate from those, and jump into the next arena, possibly with a navy suede version, like the Septieme Largeur one pictured at the top. Coupled with a natural sole, that blue suede and any of them for that matter, would be the ideal knock around shoe, something that would be great for day to day wear but even have the ability to be smartened up when necessary.You simply can't beat that and I feel that it will be something that more and more people will start to recognize, which in turn will mean that more and more companies will start making them. Watch!

John Lobb

Saion

Corthay, Courtesy of Leffot

Corthay

While these shades only represent a small fraction of the possibilities that could be realized, its a nice step in the right direction. But what about a burgundy suede? A sea blue? Florence Purple? The possibilities are endless and there are so many opportunities to make something that is cool, eye-catching and more importantly unique... Can't say that it will be me, at least not in my first collection, but you can bet that I will aspire to come out with some burgundy or some crazy shade of blue, or maybe even gray. Gosh, I get excited just thinking about it! But in all seriousness, watch out, because I bet that this starts to grow like the plague, and by this upcoming fall and next spring/summer, you will see them everywhere! I don't know about you, but I look forward to it....

All by Septieme Largeur

On another note, things are progressing again after a small hiccup with my shoe line. After wearing my first set of trial fits I realized that my last was a bit on the wide side, not being as proportional as I had liked it to be, fitting more like a EX (or EE). I pretty much shaved off one of those E's and have been testing the results, of which I think look and feel better. Now that I have this out of the way, I simply need to work out the small details, make the entire collection and be on my way to getting them in the stores and on your feet! I appreciate all those who are still awaiting the release of them, and promise that you won't be let down!

Carmina - The Spanish Conquistadors

As some of you may remember, a little while back I had the pleasure of being involved in one of The Armoury's trunk shows, located here in London. At that trunk show, I had the first opportunity to truly appreciate the level of shoes that Carmina produces. Prior to this, I was always hearing about Carmina shoes but never really had the ability to judge them for myself, other than shining an old pair for a customer (but that doesn't really count!). As I had always heard positive things about them, you can imagine that I was quite curious to see what all the hype was about. Little did I know that I was going to be in for a big surprise.

Upon arriving at the trunk show, I was met with the display of shoes that you see at the top of this post. Being the 'little kid in the candy shop' that I can be, I was in awe of almost every pair and began touching, analyzing, smelling the leather and pretty much everything else that I could to take in (and mentally record) the shoes' quality. Not long after, the daughter of the present owner (and possibly founder) came in and we began discussing much about the brand, who I was, and my future shoe line (as I was no doubt wearing a pair of my own). She was a very kind woman (who handles much of the business side of things) and it was very nice to actually meet someone from the Albaladejo family, a family that I believe to be synonymous with high quality footwear.

Even though I was not in the market to buy anything (as I need another shoe like I need a hole in the head), I couldn't help but try them on just to see how they measured up to other brands. They had two lasts on hand, one being the Simpson (my favorite - shown here) and the other being the Robert (I believe?? - not found on the website), which was a bit more conservatively elegant and rounded. Both of them fit me surprisingly well. I say that because I have quite a narrow foot and many shoes seem to be a bit spacious on me, yet these were not in least. They were a very sturdy shoe, on the verge of being stiff, but also signifying, for me, a well-made shoe that could last a lifetime! Not only were they well made, but very comfortable in the fitting as well i.e. in the way that they hugged my arch. I felt supported properly, something that is quite important when buying leather soled dress shoes that you might spend a whole day in.

I have said this before, and I am going to say it again: shoes made in Spain are on their way up. They can make shoes that are just as good as their English counterparts, at least within the mid-range of high end footwear, think Crockett & Jones and comparable. Carminas, for me rival C&J Hangrade, but cost a whole lot less, significantly less, and I dare might say that while the leathers they use might be a bit stiffer, their level of making just might rival an entry level Edward Green. I know this is bold to say, but I can't help but tell you that it is true. As the Spanish continue to make footwear and climb the echelons of quality, I dare to say that one day you will find them rivaling the best of them, being able to produce handgrade footwear with all of the bells and whistles that separate the lates from the greats! Mark my word....

Carmina Shoes Available Online: Here or at
The Amoury

The Armoury, Carmina, The Shoe Snob, London Trunk Show

For those that may not be aware, The Armoury, is a clothier in Hong Kong that specializes in artisanal offerings for men. One of these brands is Carmina, a recognized Spanish shoemaker, of whom I have just recently become very fond of. Now I had always know about them (Carmina), as well as heard good things, but it wasn't until the owner of The Armoury (Mr. Mark Cho) asked me to shine the samples for this upcoming event, that I truly became aware of just how amazing Carmina's shoes actually are. After I picked them up and took each one out of its box, my mouth kept dropping one notch further and further for how simply amazing they were. Not only for the array of models, but for how incredibly well constructed they were. Everything about them was spot on, and I was ashamed to know that I had not been privy to this knowledge prior to this point. Nevertheless, I now know and will definitely be recommending them more on this blog. That being, here is my first recommendation. On April 20th-21st (Fri.-Sat.), The Armoury is holding a trunk show (of which I will be attending as well as offering my services - on the Sat.), showcasing their Carmina models. If you are in London at this time and looking for some new shoes, then I highly recommend coming to at least have a look. I promise that you won't be disappointed.

For more info on the trunk show, READ HERE

Pictures Courtesy Of: The Armoury & Photographer Harry Watts

Today's Favorites - Carmina

There is a sleeping giant in the shoe industry that not many people realize yet is soon going to be a major player, and that giant is Spain. For many years, Spain has been a producer of high quality shoes coming from several factories such as Carmina (which is shown here) and Magnanni, not to mention others that are less known. But only until recently, I believe, have people started to catch on, as the moniker "Made In Italy" starts to slowly fade. As I have said before, a good shoe can be made anywhere. Sure, that country has to have the right ingredients, such as the proper machinery, but mainly there just has to be passion, patience and attention to detail. And Carmina, has done an amazing job of doing just that, as you can very well see in these pictures. These chukka, just might be among the coolest boots that I have ever seen. Not only do they have a crepe sole, that is amazing for walking, but with that, they have managed to maintain their dressiness and shape. And to top it all off, what a great color for suede: olive green! I continue to be amazed with where the shoe industry is going (in terms of styling), and for me it brings great pleasure to see shoes like this, that are classic, but have that little bit of edge...

Pictures Courtesy Of: Rugged Old Salt
Shoes: All MTO, available through The Armoury

Today's Favorites - Carmina Balmoral Boot

I have never actually had the pleasure of holding a pair of Carmina shoes in my hands, but I have always appreciated what I have seen in pictures and all of the nice things that most people have to say about them. While they tend to not stray too far outside of classic styles, I did notice this pair on Ethan Desu's blog a little while ago and was quite taken aback by the uniqueness of them. There was no description of what they were for, but I could only imagine that they must have been an MTO, as this is not a combination that you see often, especially in RTW circulation. And even though it did not make me say 'WOW' for some unknown reason, I feel that I would love to have them and would gravitate towards them more than I think. Something about them really captures me, but in a way that is almost indescribable. The seem to have these little subtle qualities that make them really stand apart, but only after 3 or 4 glances do you notice them. I feel that they come up higher on your leg than your average pair, the stitching along the facing is not quite straight but not quite as curved either when it comes to the edge of the vamp/quarter, and that the mouth of the boot (above ankle) is a lot smaller than most openings. And all of these details make me think that this is truly inspired by what they used to wear in the late 19th, early 20th centuries.... I applaud the person that designed them...Well done!