The Next Big Trend: Colored Chukka Boots

Picture Courtesy of Septieme Largeur

Year after year, there are new trends in the shoe industry, some of which are great and some of which are crap. I believe that the next big one that you will start to see popping up from brand after brand, is colored chukka boots. Some companies have already started leading the way by bringing them out in their current collections, and others I know will soon follow. I happen to be quite excited about it, as I think that there aren't many better shoes options than a nice chukka boot, and colored suede just makes it all that more appealing in my opinion. I mean, even though I love my cigar suede ones, it gets a bit tiresome only being able to choose from the 57 shades of browns that you usually see them in. And who is to say that the dark green suede that you see done by Carmina (shown below) would not be just as versatile as it's brown alternative? If you are going to wear them with jeans or even khakis, that forest green is going to complement them beautifully!

Carmina, Picture Courtesy of Rugged Old Salt

Carmina, Picture Courtesy of The Armoury Blog

The more that I spend time in the shoe industry, and being constantly exposed to shoes and all of the different models, the more that I internally battle myself in deciding what my favorites are. One day it's a saddle shoe, next day it's a penny loafer, then a brogue etc. But the more that I do this, the more that I find myself truly liking chukka boots. Granted, I have always been a fan ever since Stefano Bemer gave me a pair and I wore it all over Italy (and everywhere else for that matter). That boot alone has given me such an appreciation for them, as I have experienced first hand the never-ending versatility of them. But I feel that I need to graduate from those, and jump into the next arena, possibly with a navy suede version, like the Septieme Largeur one pictured at the top. Coupled with a natural sole, that blue suede and any of them for that matter, would be the ideal knock around shoe, something that would be great for day to day wear but even have the ability to be smartened up when necessary.You simply can't beat that and I feel that it will be something that more and more people will start to recognize, which in turn will mean that more and more companies will start making them. Watch!

John Lobb

Saion

Corthay, Courtesy of Leffot

Corthay

While these shades only represent a small fraction of the possibilities that could be realized, its a nice step in the right direction. But what about a burgundy suede? A sea blue? Florence Purple? The possibilities are endless and there are so many opportunities to make something that is cool, eye-catching and more importantly unique... Can't say that it will be me, at least not in my first collection, but you can bet that I will aspire to come out with some burgundy or some crazy shade of blue, or maybe even gray. Gosh, I get excited just thinking about it! But in all seriousness, watch out, because I bet that this starts to grow like the plague, and by this upcoming fall and next spring/summer, you will see them everywhere! I don't know about you, but I look forward to it....

All by Septieme Largeur

On another note, things are progressing again after a small hiccup with my shoe line. After wearing my first set of trial fits I realized that my last was a bit on the wide side, not being as proportional as I had liked it to be, fitting more like a EX (or EE). I pretty much shaved off one of those E's and have been testing the results, of which I think look and feel better. Now that I have this out of the way, I simply need to work out the small details, make the entire collection and be on my way to getting them in the stores and on your feet! I appreciate all those who are still awaiting the release of them, and promise that you won't be let down!

Today's Favorites - John Lobb

This shoe, by John Lobb, called 'Abbey' just might be my all-time favorite shoe ever created by the illustrious maker. There are many things that draw me to it. First off, the fact that I feel that it cannot really be labeled. It's hard to create a shoe that does not really fall into one of the common categories, at least not a classic shoe. Maybe some awful trendy shoe that is such a concoction of crap that it does not fall under anything concrete, but a shoe as elegant as this, without being able to be categorized is amazing, at least to me. Sure you could call it a slip-on shoe, but it's not a loafer. It's definitely not an oxford, nor is it a monk. It's a hybrid, but an elegant one. Its unique simplicity is breathtaking, having cleanliness all around the shoe, with I believe only one seam. (Not sure if there is a heel seam) Paired with John Lobb's lovely Museum calf, this shoe truly stands among the best of them, and not only because it looks good, but because it was a design created by the people at Lobb at a time when everything under the sun has already been done, yet they managed to pull a rabbit out of a hat by creating something that hadn't, and looked damn good!

The eBay Experience

I have never been someone who has had a whole lot of patience, unfortunate as that may be. This downfall has prohibited me from taking part in many things...like learning how to actually hit the ball in golf, reading a book past the first 10 pages (it better grab me), and last but not least, taking advantage of the wonderful creation called eBay. Some things are obviously more important than others, in terms of helping my intelligence (like the reading bit, that would help me write and speak better) but none could have probably saved me more money than, being a smart eBay shopper could have. I mean, I have wasted tons of money in my life from things that I bought, and then never wore or wore just once or twice and then gave away. It hurts to think of that sunk cost that I cannot regain.....But let's now dwell and move back on to the subject.....I can't even begin to imagine how many amazing products have been sold on eBay for next to nothing: millions. And to think that I have missed out on all of them! But, apparently I have reader that has done the opposite of myself and has completely taken advantage of this brilliant creation and by doing so, has acquired around 75 of his 150 pairs of shoes. (Makes me look like a chump!) And by doing this, not only has he been able to purchase very nice, high-end shoes, but has also probably been able to save tens of thousands of dollars, which I am sure has helped him buy more clothing! :-)

What's most amazing about this, is the eclectic array of shoes that my reader now owns. I mean, it ranges from those Florsheim looking cream slip-ons (which for me don't match the vibe of the others) to the most amazing suede Lobbs. But that's what happens when you have the ability to get a shoe for $20-$30. At that price, you just might buy anything. It's like when I used to work in retail, made loads of money for a 22 year-old, and had a discount. I frickin' bought everything, even things that I hated after one wear. It was stupid....but that's what happens when things are too cheap to pass up, which is why eBay is brilliant. Someone literally came up with the idea to have people pretty much swap crap that they don't want and then the company makes loads of money from fee's. Simply amazing! And while it sounds like the owners of eBay are having all of the fun, its actually people like my reader who (if they are diligent enough) are able to profit off of this concept and build a wardrobe (or whatever product they are after) on basement bargains!

Some of the shoes that he has gotten are simply beautiful. The suede Lobbs (above) are most likely my favorite, just because I love the uniqueness of the design, so French, yet so elegant! Next up, must be the Berluti wholecuts in a pebble grain. It's funny because I have never seen that before, nor have I even thought of it, but to me, it looks brilliant. It's the only way to tone down the dressiness of the whole cut, and make it a bit more casual. Great idea! And last, but certainly not least, are those yellowish/tan Bontoni wholecuts with brogueing. Those are simply beautiful! And for those 3 shoes, that probably retail upwards of about $4000, it would not surprise me if he got them for about 1/4 of that price. How can you beat that? You can't really and that's why the eBay experience is so genius. I tip my hat to the owners and to those (such as this reader who owns all of these amazing shoes) whom have actually been patient enough to take advantage of the sheer brilliance in trading crap for bottom dollar prices!

Today's Favorites - John Lobb Saddle Shoes

I never tire of seeing how many different ways a saddle shoe can be executed, especially when the color combinations are quite bold and unusual, such as this model by John Lobb. Buts what's funny about it is that I plucked this from a French website (Souliers), thinking that it was some bespoke (or at least MTO) model, as the title of the photo had the word 'customisee,'  (apparently I am much worse at French than I thought) but then noticed the big, fat circled "R" on the inside which usually indicates a reject model. If these are both the case, it's such a shame...I wonder what the customer did not like about them? Nevertheless, I find them stunning and would gladly take them off John Lobb's hands......(it's nice to dream about being rich). In particular, what I find most appealing and unique is the perforations on the saddle. To me, they are simply and effortlessly amazing! Something that is so small in design yet so big in separating itself from the others....that's what good design is all about....!

Business As Usual

Dear All,

It's 5:30am and I am about to be off for a quick one-day business trip. I am sorry that I did not get around to posting yesterday, but as usual my time was scarce. I can't really write much as I have to leave in 10 minutes but just did not want another day to go by without posting something. So, for another quick post, I will do my best to leave you with something that tempts the eyes and makes you want to come back tomorrow to see what's next!

Enjoy your Thursday!

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"


Picture: To the best of my knowledge, these are John Lobb

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5 Essential Shoes For Winter

Like in all seasons, there are certain shoes that you find yourself gravitating towards more so than others. As yesterday might have just marked one of the coldest days that England has seen this Autumn/Winter, I figured that I would give you all a chance to get a head start on your winter shoe collection by providing what I believe are the most essential shoes for your wardrobe. Granted, I can't expect each of you to be able to go out and buy all 5 of them, but owning at least 2-3 would be enough to get you through a cold winter season. I, myself, only own 2 out these 5, but am in definite need of a nice brogue boot. Only trouble is, I don't find many that I like.....except for the one pictured below!

Brown pebble grain with rubber sole

Shoes by: Septieme Largeur

The thing about pebble-grained shoes, is that the leather seems to be a lot more susceptible to adverse weather with respects to it's plain calfskin cousin. I can't really say why that is, but it's definitely harder to ruin a pair of pebble grains from rain or dirt. It just seems to withstand more abuse and because of that makes it the perfect shoe for Autumn/Winter, as the weather is often dreary and volatile, creating the need of a shoe that can tolerate the unpredictability that each day brings. 


Chukka Boot - dark brown suede with rubber sole

Boots by: Stefano Bemer

You simply can't go wrong with a good chukka boot. If you get the right model, not only can it get you through a rough winter season, but can also get you through the entire year, as I believe it to be one of the most versatile shoes in existence. But you want to make sure that you get the dark brown model, as a lighter shade will not be as tolerable to rain and stain. And while in reality I am no suede expert, from my personal experiences I can tell you that all one needs is a good suede brush and some suede renewal in order to keep their shoes going strong. I actually own the model above (in Tobacco) and in the 3 years that I have had it, it has seen more mileage than any other of my shoes yet still looks tip-top.


Black dress shoe

Shoes by: Koji Suzuki

This may seem terribly obvious, but sometimes obvious things need reminding. A good black dress shoe whether with a rubber sole or leather, will not only get you through winter, but could get you through everything else as well! In all honesty, I still don't own an all-black oxford, only my saddles (with the red) and my black loafers account for my black shoes. I keep thinking that I need one, even though I don't go to many events that require that sort of formality. So, for me saying this to all of you, it's also like I am saying it to myself as well. Because when that awful rainy day comes, you don't want to get caught outside with some brown shoes on, because they just might turn black from the staining of the rain. A quarter brogue, like the one above, is one of the best models around as it's versatility (from jeans to formal events) is second to none.


Heavy brogue boot

Boot by: Alfred Sargent

This is hands down the nicest brogue boot that I have ever seen. The detailing of the brogueing on the top leather is simply amazing. It's simple, yet beautiful and elegant. The shape is perfect. Not too bulky, not too slim, just right. When made as elegant yet masculine as this, a brogue boot can get you through most days. Obviously, you don't want to be wearing this with a suit, but to me, this is the ultimate jean (or casual trouser) boot. If you have this sitting in your closet this winter, I bet that you wouldn't think twice about what to grab when you need to pop out, whether to grocery store or out on the town. Boots like this, make the dreadful weather of Autumn/Winter seem pleasurable!

P.S.  -- AS, if you are reading this and feeling generous for Christmas, my size is a UK7 :-).


Navy suede loafers

Shoes By: John Lobb

While this is not entirely suede, nor entirely what I had in mind (as I cannot find anything else in my archive of pictures) it will still do for a solid navy suede loafer. Some of you might be thinking that a shoe like this belongs in Spring/Summer and while it would fit right in to those seasons, we also must remember that there are many days (depending on where you live) during the A/W that although might be bone-chilling cold have a beautiful clear sky with the sun out. On those days, a navy suede loafer fits right in. Don't forget that navy is still a dark color, and blends well with the tones that you find most people gravitating towards during those chilly months. So when you are feel sporty and casual and don't want to grab your sneakers (trainers), there is always the option of the ever-versatile navy suede loafer!

Surprise Visit From Mr. Hugo Jacomet

Photo Courtesy Of: Mr Andy Barnham

Now some of you may or may not know who Mr. Hugo Jacomet is, but if you don't, please allow me to introduce to you the author of the brilliant website Parisian Gentleman. Now, even though I am a big advocate of print, as I buy the majority of the men's style magazines, it is belief of mine that the online journalism industry will soon be bigger than print, if it's not already. One of the people who will be leading the way, especially in France as well as the rest of the world, is Hugo Jacomet. His website is a breath of fresh air from the bombardment of irrelevant information that you find these days on the web.

A while back, when I was just a young dumb blogger, he gave me a chance by adding me to his website and all of the sudden my visitors per day skyrocketed. To that, I will forever be appreciative and was wanting to pay him a visit when I next went to France so that I could thank him in person. But to my surprise, while he was in London for the weekend, he beat me to the punch and gave me a visit at Gieves & Hawkes. It was very nice to finally meet and being the shoe snob that I am, the first thing that I said, after hello, was "nice Corthay's that you have there." As touching of a story that it is, I will leave it at that and tell you that if you have yet to visit his PG but are a person who appreciates good men's style websites, than you are missing out. So, please allow me to give you a taste of the lovely things that you can find there.....with these pictures of John Lobbs.

Entire Post Found Here.

Shoes -- Part 2: Style Names & Terminology -- Boots

As you many very well know, boots come in all shapes, sizes and styles. And even today they are ever-evolving, as I shall share an example (of something new and unique) with you either tomorrow or for my shoes of the week post that I usually do on Fridays. I was never a huge boot fan until I saw my first spat boot. After that, it was pure love. Now, I want every kind of style of boot in every colorway. I even had 3 of them made up for my first collection. Quite a bit for an introduction to the world. But as the days go on, I feel that boots are becoming increasing sought after, as the homogeneity of low-cut shoes (aka normal shoes) begins to bore many individuals. They therefore look to something else. And that something else is very likely to be a boot. 

Pictured Above & Below, Left: My own Gaziano & Girling 'Wigmore'

Balmoral Boots

Gaziano & Girling

Alfred Sargent

Crockett & Jones

Septieme Largeur

Balmoral boots are are definitely among my top favorites of all the boot options. Let's call them my adopted favorite. Adopted because the spat boot is my true favorite but considering the fact that they are very very hard to come by and will most likely run you a minimum of $1000, I have to say that for practical sake, the balmoral boot is what I prefer. What's nice about them is the fact that they are simply a dress boot. A boot that you can wear as if it was a shoe, i.e. with your suits. Not too many other boots can do that, because at first site you can easily tell that they are a boot. But with a balmoral boot, it looks like a shoe when your trousers are covering it. I feel that for this very reason, they have become increasingly popular in recent times, as people may be bored of wearing traditional shoes and are therefore opting for something a little different, and this being the perfect example.

Derby Boots

I can't say that this is the exact proper name for them, but this is what I like to call them. They are really just like a balmoral except the fact that they have open lacing. Just as beautiful too, as they allow for a more casual look. This pair above, by Edward Green is probably the nicest derby boot I have ever seen and I could definitely see myself in this everyday, paired with my jeans. Then again, I could easily see myself in all of the boots that I am putting here, especially since I come to think about it, I really don't own a pair of derby boots. Boots, in general, have definitely been something that I did not put much effort into getting, in the past. But now that I have amassed a huge collection of laced shoes, I think that I need build up my loafer and boot game.

Helm

Gaziano & Girling

Spat Boots

Jan Kielman

As I have mentioned a million times before, I believe that men dressed at their best during the Edwardian and Victorian eras. Clothing seemed to be appreciated so much more and elegance was something to uphold. And during those times, many men wore high cut boots, particularly spat and balmoral boots. I don't know why makers were inclined to make them then, but nowadays they are virtually unheard of in a ready-to-wear option. Maybe its because, today, men walk harder and are more aggressive in their nature, which makers feel that the buttons will therefore break too easily. This will then cause headaches for the customer with the broken buttons and in turn will lead to the manufacturers having to deal with those broken buttons. Whatever the case, it sure is sad that they are not more readily available.

Anthony Delos - Spat cover + shoe

Perfetto

Chukka Boots

Corthay; Picture via Leffot

Chukka boots are among the most versatile shoes in the shoe industry. If done right a chukka boot, such as the one picture above, can transition between jeans and suits within the same wear. The cleanliness of them, being that they tend to be stitch free on the vamp and toe area, allows for them to dressed up. But at the same time, the fact that they still are a boot gives it that automatic jean and casual appeal. Out of all of the shoes that I own, I am almost without a doubt that aside from my commuter shoe (which does not count), I have worn my chukkas more than anything. You just can't beat their versatility!


Whole Cut Boots

Septieme Largeur

This is the second time that I have seen this done before. The first time was by Japanese bespoke shoemaker, Imai Hiroki (pictured below). It's like an oxford version of a chukka boot. It's quite strange to see in picture, but they look really nice in person, as I was able to check out the last time that I was in Paris at the SL shop. My only concern with them is the ankle area and how it will feel with that whole piece of leather. But then again, it would most likely not be designed and selling if it was not comfortably wearable. They are pretty cool nonetheless. Being a whole cut fan weather it a laced shoe, loafer or boot, means that I have to like this one too! I just need to get my hands on a pair!

Septieme Largeur

Imai Hiroki

Septieme Largeur

Chelsea Boots

Ahh, the chelsea boot. Probably my least favorite boot, up until recently, which as I stated above will share with you on Friday. I don't know why I have never really been the biggest fan of them. I guess it's because I really see that gore as being too casual to be "nice." Don't get me wrong, a good chelsea boot is an amazing casual shoe, but it's tough to make them dressy. This Koji Suzuki model above is probably the nicest that I have ever seen. He seemed to make all of the proportions in just the right way, allowing for a sleek and dressy look. It may seem trivial, but I believe that for a chelsea boot, getting these proportions down right is much harder than it seems, at least to make the boot on the dressy side. Beatle boots are another form of chelsea boots except that they are cut much more lower. It became a style that was popularized by the rock group, The Beatles in the 1960's. They can also have a zipped side, but they are usually regarded to be a descendant of the chelsea boot. Beatle boot picture below by Corthay.

Jodhpur Boots

Rider Boot Co.

Originally used as a riding boot, the jodhpur boot has now been transformed to be one the coolest jeans boots ever. Not really that dressy due to the straps, I find them to be perfect as a great jean boot. There is something that is rugged and manly about them, even though they look nice and elegant. Another boot that I do not own, but will definitely be adding to the collection!

Barker Black

John Lobb via Leather Soul