Balancing Your Outfit

Expensive suits, crap shoes (with the exception of Colin Farrell, who looks to have some decent ones)

Everything has its place, whether it's cheap shoes, expensive suits, mediocre shirts, wrinkled trousers etc., but too often do you see a lot of men jumbling them all together in a way that does not make sense. There are ways to mix and match them, get away with it and still look relatively good. Take me for example, often I wear cheap shirts purchased at Primark, and then pair them with expensive suits and shoes. Most of the time, no one notices, but I can tell you that there is a difference, and I can see it, as well as feel it. When I look at my colleagues £100+ shirts, their collars and quality of shirt material look infinitely better than mine. Granted, I do this on purpose as I deal with polish all day long, particularly black polish, which I will have you know is very hard to get off of a white shirt, and therefore don't want to wear nice shirts that I will constantly run the risk of ruining. And since the collars have built in stiffeners, they usually look decent enough....allowing me to balance my outfit, as the other articles of clothing within my outfit tend to correlate in price. But the other day, I made the mistake of wearing a very nice suit, with some shoes that did not correlate, in price, quality, or look and realized that so many men do this, and ruin their entire look, as I had.

Expensive Suit, cheap shoes = no good

Expensive suit, expensive shoes = good

For the life of me, I can't understand why most men will fork out loads of money on their suits but then will only want to spend 1/5 of that on their shoes. I mean, if you can afford a £1000 suit, then certainly you can afford £400+ shoes. For me, the rule would be that you should spend half of what you are giving for your suit, on your shoes. Just to clarify, if your suit is £1000, then ideally (in my twisted mind) your shoes should be cost around £500. This way, you maintain a good balance in your outfit, because it is so amazingly noticeable when someone is wearing a decent suit with the crappiest £100 shoes. When you do this, you stick out like a sore thumb and no matter how nice or expensive your suit is, your shoes just kill the entire outfit. However, there are ways to fool people as some shoes can look real good and expensive but not be. For example, when you shine a shoe up, that has a decent leather but be a mid range shoe, you could easily pass it off as something of higher quality due to the maintenance that you have given it. It is surprising how a shine can make a shoe look so much more expensive than it actually is. But this will require a bit of knowledge in knowing what is able to get there and what isn't, as a cheap leather won't look good no matter how high you shine it.

Photo Courtesy of Rugged Old Salt

Both Shoes by Spigola by Koji Suzuki, Photos courtesy of Rugged Old Salt

NOT  THESE BELOW

Now, the buck doesn't stop with incorrect price correlation within your articles of clothing, but also needs to take into account the types of styles that you are putting together. What I mean by this is the act mixing trendy attire with classic attire, certain Italian shoes with English suits etc. If you have a nice Savile Row suit with a very English cut, it would look absolutely silly to pair it with some ostentatious trendy designer shoe by LV or Gucci. They just don't go...and that's not to say that the English cut suit has to go with English made shoes, because that's not the case either. It's about matching styles. Elegant for elegant, trendy with trendy. When you start to blur the lines a bit too much, you throw off the balance of your outfit and thus your look. Obviously there are some style icons who can do this and get away with it, but it's very difficult to do. If you are wearing a very slim cut Italian suit with soft lines, then don't be afraid to wear your Ferragamo tassel loafers....but then you would want to sTay away from some heavy, double-soled British brogue. Like for like, in style and price, will allow you to keep a good balance in your outfit at all times.

The Only Dress Shoe Ever Really Needed - The Black Wholecut

Gaziano & Girling Deco Range: Cooper

This title might sound like shoe lover blasphemy, and believe me I can't say that I would ever think of just having one, but.....if life presented itself with this situation, it's best to be equipped with what is going to get you through it all. What made me think of this was a discussion that was occurring on Style Forum (a while back) in regards to one's absolute shoe essentials. One gentleman stated that instead of having multiple essentials, he would have preferred to have just one shoe that could get him through each and every situation. Now, he did not mention the black wholecut, and this is where him and I will differ but I got to thinking about people out there who may only be able to afford getting just one or simply can't justify having multiple options. That being, thinking about society, 'the rules' and 'norms', and all of the different possible outfits one would need in life, I decided to create my own little idea of what would be the best option out there for all around purposes. And because I once learned in philosophy class at Uni that every statement needs to be argued against and then re-argued for, I will list my don'ts and do's below.

Berluti

What Not To Wear Black Wholecuts With

In all of the shoe-dom, there is not one shoe style that goes with everything, not even the versatile brown full brogue (can't pair it with black!). And while you might think that a black shoe can go with most things...let me tell you that the wholecut is just not any 'ol black shoe. It's in another category due to it's cleanliness look from being virtually stitch free. That being, there are some types of trousers that just won't measure up to the aesthetic of the black wholecut. For example, jeans being one of them. While I am a total jean guy and do like to wear my leather soled shoes with jeans, I don't think that I would ever pair a black wholecut with them. It's just too contrasting: a mega-dress shoe with real casual trousers (jeans). It just doesn't work. Same thing with khakis, they are simply too casual for the likes of the black wholecut. It would not look right, as neither would anything green or brown. Now you might feel that there are many things limiting here....but in reality, how often do you wear green or brown trousers? Khakis and jeans are much more common, but are also much more casual and hence the title being about a dress shoe, I feel that this is not so bad!

Koji Suzuki

What To Wear Black Wholecuts With

Now this list is going to be much more extensive, not so much in option of clothing, but in colors that the average person uses. Think about what we wear most: grays and blues (mostly navy), particularly in our suiting. While I used to not be an advocate of pairing navy with black, the more I find myself here in England, the more I find it acceptable. While it still would not ever be my preferred pairing, it does look good when needing to be elegantly conservative. That being, you satisfy most of your professional wardrobe, not to mention anything that is formal. In reality, you don't need a patent shoe, but just need to put a real nice shine on a black wholecut and instead of being like everyone else at the black tie event, you will be the one with a brilliant shine and a much more elegant shoe (in my opinion). As for other occasions, what do you wear when going to an interview? What do you wear when going to a nice dinner? You wear black shoes. And the wholecut, being the most elegant of all, will neither look too formal nor too shabby. It will be the safe choice. Obviously, these are not end-all-be-all rules, but when talking about the one shoe that will safely get you by in every occasion, you can't go wrong with the black dress shoe, and even more so, than the minimalistic wholecut. So, if you are a young chap looking for your first dress shoe, look no further than a lovely black wholecut!

Gaziano & Girling bespoke model

5 Essential Shoes For Winter

Like in all seasons, there are certain shoes that you find yourself gravitating towards more so than others. As yesterday might have just marked one of the coldest days that England has seen this Autumn/Winter, I figured that I would give you all a chance to get a head start on your winter shoe collection by providing what I believe are the most essential shoes for your wardrobe. Granted, I can't expect each of you to be able to go out and buy all 5 of them, but owning at least 2-3 would be enough to get you through a cold winter season. I, myself, only own 2 out these 5, but am in definite need of a nice brogue boot. Only trouble is, I don't find many that I like.....except for the one pictured below!

Brown pebble grain with rubber sole

Shoes by: Septieme Largeur

The thing about pebble-grained shoes, is that the leather seems to be a lot more susceptible to adverse weather with respects to it's plain calfskin cousin. I can't really say why that is, but it's definitely harder to ruin a pair of pebble grains from rain or dirt. It just seems to withstand more abuse and because of that makes it the perfect shoe for Autumn/Winter, as the weather is often dreary and volatile, creating the need of a shoe that can tolerate the unpredictability that each day brings. 


Chukka Boot - dark brown suede with rubber sole

Boots by: Stefano Bemer

You simply can't go wrong with a good chukka boot. If you get the right model, not only can it get you through a rough winter season, but can also get you through the entire year, as I believe it to be one of the most versatile shoes in existence. But you want to make sure that you get the dark brown model, as a lighter shade will not be as tolerable to rain and stain. And while in reality I am no suede expert, from my personal experiences I can tell you that all one needs is a good suede brush and some suede renewal in order to keep their shoes going strong. I actually own the model above (in Tobacco) and in the 3 years that I have had it, it has seen more mileage than any other of my shoes yet still looks tip-top.


Black dress shoe

Shoes by: Koji Suzuki

This may seem terribly obvious, but sometimes obvious things need reminding. A good black dress shoe whether with a rubber sole or leather, will not only get you through winter, but could get you through everything else as well! In all honesty, I still don't own an all-black oxford, only my saddles (with the red) and my black loafers account for my black shoes. I keep thinking that I need one, even though I don't go to many events that require that sort of formality. So, for me saying this to all of you, it's also like I am saying it to myself as well. Because when that awful rainy day comes, you don't want to get caught outside with some brown shoes on, because they just might turn black from the staining of the rain. A quarter brogue, like the one above, is one of the best models around as it's versatility (from jeans to formal events) is second to none.


Heavy brogue boot

Boot by: Alfred Sargent

This is hands down the nicest brogue boot that I have ever seen. The detailing of the brogueing on the top leather is simply amazing. It's simple, yet beautiful and elegant. The shape is perfect. Not too bulky, not too slim, just right. When made as elegant yet masculine as this, a brogue boot can get you through most days. Obviously, you don't want to be wearing this with a suit, but to me, this is the ultimate jean (or casual trouser) boot. If you have this sitting in your closet this winter, I bet that you wouldn't think twice about what to grab when you need to pop out, whether to grocery store or out on the town. Boots like this, make the dreadful weather of Autumn/Winter seem pleasurable!

P.S.  -- AS, if you are reading this and feeling generous for Christmas, my size is a UK7 :-).


Navy suede loafers

Shoes By: John Lobb

While this is not entirely suede, nor entirely what I had in mind (as I cannot find anything else in my archive of pictures) it will still do for a solid navy suede loafer. Some of you might be thinking that a shoe like this belongs in Spring/Summer and while it would fit right in to those seasons, we also must remember that there are many days (depending on where you live) during the A/W that although might be bone-chilling cold have a beautiful clear sky with the sun out. On those days, a navy suede loafer fits right in. Don't forget that navy is still a dark color, and blends well with the tones that you find most people gravitating towards during those chilly months. So when you are feel sporty and casual and don't want to grab your sneakers (trainers), there is always the option of the ever-versatile navy suede loafer!

Shoes Of The Week - Koji Suzuki

I never tire of looking at shoes made by Japanese bespoke shoemakers, such as the ones pictured here by Koji Suzuki. Somthing about their shoes, even though they may be classic styles, always seem to set themselves apart from their competitors. Take the monk strap above, for example. It's buckles are extremely far apart from eachother and also have concaved details on the leather strap, as opposed to a strap with straight edge lines. Little things like this, although minute, set the shoe apart from the next and create a feel of elegance, due to the addition of simple details that many shoe brands lack in utilizing.

But this also plays on one's culture, as I believe that Japanese society as a whole tends to appreciate and focus on the finer details in life that not only make things seem more simple, but also more elegant. A quick example, in my opinion, is the fact that they use chopsticks and sit on their knees with a staight back as opposed to eating with babaric forks/knives while sitting on modern funiture. And although (obviously) this is not the case for everyone in Japan, it's stuff like this that carries out into most things that they do and/or create. Looking at these shoes, you might just see what I am rambling on about. Simple, elegant, clean looking and most important, exquisite in every meaning of the word!