Today's Favorites - Saint Crispins Saddle Shoe

So, I am back in Seattle feeling a bit strange, almost as if I am a stranger in my own city and am therefore a little bit discombobulated, which has left me unable to conjure something up for my long post on Mondays. Because of this I am leaving you with a tidbit on the ever so amazing Saint Crispins shoe brand, of whom I never seem to tire. Every time I see of new pair of shoes made by them, shown on Rugged Old Salt (as these were), I am always left astounded, particularly when they highlight the details that set them apart, such as the way that they finish their soles. While I am not usually so crazy about the soles' look, especially since it gets destroyed on the first wear, I must say that the way they look in the picture below is absolutely stunning. The manner in which they finished it with that glossy shine looks delicious to say the least. I would almost feel bad wearing these if they were my shoes, I might just want to leave them sole up, face down, as to show off the beauty of the work. Key word though, 'almost'...I would rock until that shine disappeared!

Today's Favorites - Scarpe di Bianco Saddle Shoes

When you think about all of the different leather options/materials that are available when making a shoe, you begin to realize that it is really quite mind boggling how many millions of combinations could take place. Take a saddle shoe for example, like the one above by Scarpe di Bianco. For a traditional saddle, you generally have either 3 or 4 pieces of leather whereby the saddle and heel counter (in this case there isn't one) match in leather/color and the vamp and quarter match in another leather/color. So looking at the shoe presented, imagine how many different variations could take place, just on the saddle, let alone the vamp and quarter areas. And I really feel that it is an absolute art being able to pick out the best possible options to not only make the best looking shoe, but also one that many people will like and want to buy. This has probably been my biggest challenge in regards to my line, trying to create color combinations that I feel separate me from every other designer, yet not going too extreme so that I don't become considered 'trendy' or 'fashiony.' It's a fine line, I tell you.... But I do quite like this model here as I feel that pebble grain leather often goes overlooked, yet can produce such a beautiful shoe that can stand the test of time..... 

Red Trousers....Get Some!

I am not 100% positive in saying this, but I am quite sure that I prior to moving to Europe to study shoemaking, I never ever saw anyone wear red trousers. But over here in Europe, they are literally a staple piece in most stylish mens' wardrobe, which I think is quite great! I feel like many men in the States (or maybe just Seattle, where I am from) are mentally confined to simply wearing either navy, gray or khaki colored trousers. Yet over here, come Spring, you see everything but those, ranging from canary yellow, to baby blue to bright green. Obviously not everyone partakes in the colored trouser activity, but it is quite appealing to see just how elaborate people's outfits can become when they do give it a shot. While I can't say that I own any of those other colors that I just listed, I do find myself gravitating towards my reds quite often. And the nice thing about them (at least the color) is that they are not simply for spring occasions, being that they are a deeper red, which allows me to also put them on in the fall/winter. So, if you don't own a pair, I suggest you reconsider....it will liven up your wardrobe!

Shoes: Septieme Largeur (with custom blue patina)
Trousers: Zara
Jacket: Pete Werth
Jumper: Intimissimi
Shirt: Primark
Bow Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

Marc Guyot: Colors, Colors, Colors!!!

If there is one thing that I like about Marc Guyot, it's the fact that he is one guy who is certainly not afraid of a bit of color. Whether or not you would fancy the outfit he wears or the shoes that he makes, you have to respect him for having the courage to be different. While certain things may be considered ostentatious, I find them pleasingly different, especially in a world that sometimes feels overly monotonous. This new range of shoes that he has, gives a whole new meaning to the idea of colored shoes, where not only are there bold colors being used, but bold colors being combined! While this is certainly not the first time that a shoe designer has done this, I must say that some of the combinations caught me by surprise. They did so by making me realize that certain colors that I would never think to wear, nor combine, actually look amazing well! What I am referring to is the split-toe derby in orangy-brown/puke green. Now, in no way is that description an attempt at insult (what other green would it be), but an actual realization of prejudices (orange colored leather - never fancied that before?) being overturn by the power of observation through skilled design by Mr. Guyot himself! Nevertheless, I tip my hat to Mr. Guyot for being a man that does what he likes, and not necessarily what everyone else likes!

Shoe Pictures Courtesy Of: Parisian Gentleman
Marc Guyot Photo Courtesy Of: The Dandy Portraits

What I Am Wearing

I think that it is so funny (and quite intriguing) how our minds evolve and our tastes change. If I was to look at this picture (above) when I was my 16 year old self, I would have never believed that I would be putting on such things, like bright red shirts, fitted trousers and bow ties. Yet, here I am today doing so. And looking back now, at my 16 year old self, even though I was cool and wearing the popular stuff, I think to myself that I looked such a douche! But, I guess, such is life. Gosh, it makes me wonder what the heck will I be wearing 20 years from now? That's what scares me.....loads of cardigans probably. But at least I will still have my favorite pair of bespoke shoes, my trusty 'ol black and red saddles! Anyway, Spring time has arrived here in London and I could not be more excited. Even though I have a bespoke flannel suit in the works that will hopefully be done by mid-March, I can't help but feel excited that the sun is out and that I might not even get a chance to wear it this season.... Nevertheless, I over the moon with joy, as some more of my prototypes are arriving in the mail tomorrow!! I am dying with anticipation....so be on the look out!

Shoes: Bespoke, made be me
Bow Tie: Drakes
Trousers: H&M
Sweater (Jumper): Primark
Shirt: Primark

Today's Favorites - John Lobb Saddle Shoes

I never tire of seeing how many different ways a saddle shoe can be executed, especially when the color combinations are quite bold and unusual, such as this model by John Lobb. Buts what's funny about it is that I plucked this from a French website (Souliers), thinking that it was some bespoke (or at least MTO) model, as the title of the photo had the word 'customisee,'  (apparently I am much worse at French than I thought) but then noticed the big, fat circled "R" on the inside which usually indicates a reject model. If these are both the case, it's such a shame...I wonder what the customer did not like about them? Nevertheless, I find them stunning and would gladly take them off John Lobb's hands......(it's nice to dream about being rich). In particular, what I find most appealing and unique is the perforations on the saddle. To me, they are simply and effortlessly amazing! Something that is so small in design yet so big in separating itself from the others....that's what good design is all about....!

Shoes Of The Week - Saddle Monks by Saint Crispins

These are hands-down among the nicest shoes that I have truly ever seen in my entire life, and I mean it! Even though Saint Crispins shoes are incredibly expensive for RTW/MTO standards (please read comment below to understand why), I have to say, that from the looks of things, they are worth every last penny. Not only do the leathers look superb, but the pattern-making and minute detailing are without a doubt, top-notch! I really can't help it but there is not one bad thing that I can say about this shoe, except that I am truly and utterly envious of the person who owns them! The apron stitch is perfect and this is one thing that really ruins a shoe for me. If the apron stitch is not spot-on, then the shoe is ruined, which is reason why I don't particularly like apron toed shoes. The fact that they added a saddle on a double monk just makes them go up 100 points in my book as many of you know that I am a saddle freak! And to top it off, the coloring of the leather is phenomenal. It may not be to everyone's liking, but you can't deny that the patina applied was nothing short of amazing, as getting an olive green like this, is very hard to do....Anyway, enough of my praising, I think that the shoes speak for themselves. My hat is tipped to the owner of these lovely beauties!

Picture Courtesy Of: Rugged Old Salt

A Return To Italy (and Stefano Bemer)

Over my quick holiday visit to the in-laws in Perugia, Italy, I managed to pop over to my old town of Firenze (where I once lived for circa 1 year). I had the intention of going back to Stefano Bemer's shop (where I learned to make bespoke shoes) and saying hi to all of my old colleagues, as well as hopefully snapping some pictures of any new models made. Being that plans don't always happen they way that you want them to (and that fact that my wife was waiting for me at a nearby cafe) I was unable to take any pictures, as my time was rushed having to explain to my friends what I am currently up to while trying my best to speak in rusty, broken Italian. It was quite unfortunate, though, as Stefano was not around and I was unable to tell him of my progress, of which I hope that he would have been proud to say that it all started at his shop, my entrance into the bespoke shoe realm.... Nevertheless, I remembered that while living there, I had taken many pictures of the shop that I don't believe I ever posted on the blog, and thought that now would be the perfect time to do so.

If you look at the picture at the very top, you can see that two of the bespoke shoes that I made (#2 & #5) came from the patterns of the shoes second from the left and third from the right, only that I slightly altered minute details such as coloring, piping thickness and last shape. Looking back at these pictures (which only make up a small amount of the entire collection), I must say that Stefano Bemer, while relatively unknown by the majority of people, makes some of the most beautiful shoes that I have ever seen! He is excellent, in my opinion, at pairing certain patterns (designs) with certain last shapes as well as putting together wonderful color combinations. With that in mind, I still wonder why you don't find his shoes selling at more outlets around the world....

While I had a great time in Italy (living there and learning) and would not have traded that experience for anything in the world, I realized that during my short and nostalgic visit back, that I have truly found myself in probably the absolute best place that I could be for making my goals come into fruition (that being London). It makes one realize how funny and coincidental life can be. And if you would have asked me 6-7 years ago, whether I could see myself being and living in London, I would have said, "no way!"  But now I am here, and I feel like I have found my second home, a place that I enjoy and can feel comfortable and secure in. It's a great a feeling and am glad to have had this trip back to Italy to be able to experience it......Anyway enough of the sentimental babble, I hope that all of you had a wonderful holiday season and are getting ready for a great New Year's celebration. 2012 is going to be a great one!!

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

What I Am Wearing

If I could wear a 3-piece or double breasted suit everyday for the rest of my life, I just might consider it. And it's not that I couldn't, because it is simply just a matter of doing so, but in today's world there are many events/situations that really don't call for it. In the sense, that if I was to do so, I may be considerably overdressed in many situations. But then, I watch shows such as Boardwalk Empire, and it seems that back then they did not go anywhere or do anything without being in an elegant suit. And even though I am very grateful and happy to be from the era that I am, I always wish that we still dressed as such. There was a manner of elegance that was spread across society and even criminals were dapper Dons. But in today's world, if you showed up in a 3-piece suit to watch the football game (whether it be the American or European version), you just might get told off. What a pity.....

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me
Suit: MTM Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Some Italian brand, will update later

Shoes -- Part 3: Lasts

The single most important part of the shoe, is the last that it is made on. There are so many factors associated with the last that can tremendously affect the outcome of the final product. The slightest curvature or proportion measurement can make or break the look and feel of the shoe. Yet, many of us don't think about this. Too much emphasis is placed on the importance of the designer, the person who simply sketches out a drawing. But it's not them that deserve all of the credit. It's the technical people who then have to make the last and then the pattern, both of which are the things that truly create the magic. These are the people that turn that drawing into a real-life product. And like I have said before, it does not matter how cool, unique or original your design is, if your last shape is ugly or disproportionate or your pattern does not fit the curvature of your last, the final product will not look right. If this becomes the case your shoes will not sell, unless you give them away for pennies. Yet, we don't think about this....or do we?

RTW Lasts

There are two type of lasts: wooden and plastic. In the mass-production industry (AKA RTW), the lasts are going to be made of plastic. The reason being, is because plastic does not crack, especially when you are drilling holes through it, putting metal springs in it and affixing it to a machine that is able to duplicate it. A wooden last, simple could not go through what a plastic last can. It's needs to be molded, shaped and replicated by heavy machinery and I believe that all of these stages would end up breaking a wooden last.

RTW lasts are also (generally) on the bulky and lack-of-shape side. The unfortunate reason being is that when you are trying to fit a population of people, you need to make something that is able to accommodate at least 80-90% of those people or else your products won't sell that well. But the down side of this is that RTW shoes end up looking so bland, shapeless, common and ultimately, ugly. Where is the happy medium? That's the question. But I believe that there is one. A way that you can blend bespoke and RTW lasts together to make a last that stands above the rest. This is what I am trying to do with my line and we shall see how it comes out. But I cannot guarantee anything, especially since the old saying goes, 'if it was easy, everyone would be doing it.'

Bespoke Lasts

Bespoke lasts are amazing. Not only do they have character, but like I stated earlier, they have all of the shapes and curves that end up creating a beautiful product. As for their material, they will always be wooden, or at least they should be. And this is attributed to many reasons. First and foremost, this is what they had to work with many many years ago, when shoemaking came about. There was no plastic or heavy machinery to create mass runs of lasts. Traditional last makers created them scratch, using a block of wood and a big sickle-like blade that would shave off the pieces of the block like one would shave off coconut shavings onto your ice cream. However, this practice is rarely done these days, if not extinct as it take a tremendous amount of time and precision. Now days, most last makers will take from an existing last, and alter it to fit the measurements of the customer. Some find this to be cheating, but in reality, with the way the world is these days (financially), it does not make sense to do it the old way, nor does it really matter. It's really just a point of pride, being able to state that something was done from start to finish, by hand.

So next time you are in the market for a pair of shoes, study them first. Look at the shapes of the shoes, how they curve, how they accentuate at the joints and how the arch actually exists, instead of just being flat. And the shoes that you find with more shape to them, with more of an emphasis on their last, will be the shoes that not only look better but fit better.

Top became bottom

Today's Favorites - Blog Reader's Shoes from Septieme Largeur

One of the biggest reasons that I started this blog, was because I have a long term goal to see men wearing better shoes, in the sense that they actually appreciate what they are wearing on their feet. It does not have to be what I like, but it has to be evident that they actually care about what they are wearing. Too many men just don't care and it shows, and to me it's a great let down. Men back in the day, used to be worse than women in their attire and appearance. They took great pride in how they looked. And it was not feminine to do so, it was masculine. Caring about your appearance does not have to be about ego, but rather can be about appreciation and respect.

Part of that goal of seeing men caring more about their shoes, was for me to be a major influence into that. Starting this blog, was a way for me to give people knowledge, awareness and an appreciation for their footwear. So you understand when I tell you that it gives me great pleasure when any of you write me up and tell me about a pair of shoes that you either want to get or have already purchased, because of what you saw or read on my blog. And you can see here that one of my readers did so. He happened to go to Paris, visit Septieme Largeur, splurged a little and had two very beautiful shoes made up for him. Simply beautiful.....

More Japanese Shoes: Otsuka M-5

While this might be sad to hear (for it shows just how much of a freak that I am), I do not think that there are many things more exciting than discovering new brand of shoes which make exactly what I like. This is very much the case with Japanese shoe brand, Otsuka M-5. While it's very hard to gather information on this brand, as I do not speak nor read the Japanese language, it would be safe to infer that they seem to take the best from all worlds and put a Japanese twist on them. While I have read somewhere, of which I cannot remember, I believe that their shoes are made in sunny 'ol England. By the looks of their construction --which you can see on the website-- having a fiddleback and bevelled waist and being obviously goodyear welted, one would think that the factory they use, would be either Edward Green, Alfred Sargent or Crockett & Jones. It not really being that important which factory makes them, what is important is that they have done a good job at taking classic shoes and putting a fun twist on them.




















As you can see from this model above, that occupies the top row as well as the bottom left, it is a style that seems to have been inspired by French shoemakers, particularly Pierre Corthay, as it seems to be something that he has done in the past or at least something similar. And while that might seem pretentious of me to say, as I believe that Japanese designers/shoemakers have proved time again that they make unique pieces that separate them from everyone else, it is not a bad thing, in fact, to have inspiration and utilize it to create something similar. Not being the biggest fan of derbies in general, I think that what they have done to the facing of these shoes, make them that much more appealing, especially the canvas model above, right. And while I loving see shoes like this, it always disappoints me that in order to ever see them in person, I either have to purchase them or take a trip to Tokyo. And while a trip to Tokyo is something that I really want to do, I would very much like this to not be my only option in seeing them in the flesh.

Now, we look at the pictures of above and you see the spectators that remind me of some Edward Green's and then the single monk straps with the hand braided stitch, that might look like something Moreschi would conjure up. And it's wonderful. This brand, does it all!! They don't have just one way about them, they have all the ways of the world, making each one with their own Japanese twist. This is the way that I think that shoes should brands should be. But then again, there would be no distinction between brands if they all did everything. So it's refreshing to see that at least it is offered somewhere. A kind of one-stop-shop brand. I could not imagine going to the store where they sell these, it would literally break my wallet, in half! Well, if anyone has any other information they would like to share on this brand, please do not hesitate to leave it in the comment section, as I am sure that there will be many readers who may wish to know more....