What I Am Wearing

The Astaire by Gaziano & Girling is hands-down my all-time favorite spectator (co-respondent). Every different part of it was designed perfectly, particularly the facing, with all of it's beautiful curves. When I decided that I was going to get it, I was almost a bit nervous in deciding what colorway that I wanted it in. Not that it was frightening or anything, but as I love the shoe so much, I wanted to enhance it as best as I could with my color options. At first I thought a bit crazily, and wanted to do some strong contrasting, but in the end, I decided that having the two different leathers was all the contrast I needed. Therefore, why not pick my favorite color in two different shades? And I am sure glad that I did, because the end result has turned out to be better than I would have imagined and has created a shoe that I absolutely love! And if you are like me, as in you love a beautiful spectator, but have never found one that really did it for you, then look no further than the Astaire. After all, it is named after my all-time favorite style icon, Mr. Fred!

Shoes: Gaziano & Girling
Zip Sweater: Intimissimi
Trousers: H&M
Undershirt: Primark
Tie: Drakes

What I Am Wearing

Before coming to England, I can wholeheartedly admit that I did not have a clue about suits and good tailoring. I used to even work in a place that sold (what I believed to be) nice suits but after seeing the quality of the cuts and tailors here on the Row (as we snobs like to call it), I now realize that what I used to see in the States was like a top sirloin from the grocery store and now I am dabbling in the Kobe beef from a 5-star restaurant. It's absolutely amazing what a good tailor can not only do for your figure, but for your whole image, and here at Gieves, we have someone who is rumored to be among the best and considering some of the things that I have seen him do, I don't doubt it! And in this new found passion of mine (whereby I am selling my personal shoes to buy more suits), I have come to love a nice double-breasted suit. Something about it just really appeals to me even though I am quite sure that I may not have the stature for them, as I am not the tallest of guys. Nevertheless, I don't care and will continue to pick up more and more of them, in every color I can! I must admit though, that my next order of suiting, is unfortunately not a DB, but rather a lovely navy flannel, peak lapel, single button suit and I can't wait to get it!!

Shoes: J.FitzPatrick design, Gaziano & Girling produced
Suit: Gieves (older label)
Shirt: TK Maxx
Tie: Robert Talbott, Best Of Class

Shoes Of The Week - Laszlo Vass MTO Spectators

I absolutely love a nice spectator (co-respondent), and this my friends, is among the nicest that I have seen to this day. It doesn't surprise me either, as most of what I see coming out of the workshops of legendary Laszlo Vass, is nothing shy of spectacular. Having inspired a reader with another model presented on the blog, he went out and found someone who could produce exactly what he was looking for, and the outcome was these, something I am sure that the reader was very pleased with....as I sure know that I would be!! Black and gray, as paired colors, is such a lovely mix to me. Not only does it keep the elegance of the black (being dressy), but it also separates it from being too muted (as I feel black shoes generally are). For me, this shoe would be something that I would love to see at a black-tie event. Call me crazy, but this to me is elegance. Sure, you may find it flashy, but how lovely would these be with a nice black-tie suit, with some gray accents in the tie/shirt region? Maybe I am just strange....but this to me is the way the world should be....not so stuffy as it is now!

 

What I Am Wearing - Spectators

It's not very often that I break out my pair of 1920's Chicago gangster-style spectators, but I always love the reactions that I get when I do. It's funny, because I never thought of them as "gangster-style" but this is a frequent comment that I receive amongst my colleagues here in London. I always looked at them as a very dandy-ish style shoe that elegant gentleman wore in the southern states of America when they wanted to dress up for festive garden parties or the likes of that. And while I am sure that their history goes back in a much more extensive way than that, it's just something that is embedded in my mind, being American and all. But now that I am one of the millions of viewers that watches the magnificent series, Boardwalk Empire, I can understand why they may receive this 'gangster' moniker. Nevertheless, there was a period when Church's were doing these in all types of color options (even white with yellow) and while I wanted to get one of each, I decided that I would just go with the most classic of them, as pictured here.

Shoes: Church's
Suit: MTM Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Tie: XMI Platinum
Socks: Mes Chaussettes Rouges

J.Fitzpatrick & Gaziano & Girling Collaboration

I don't know how many of you remember, but before I ever went to have my collection made up in Spain, I went to Tony Gaziano to learn how to make a pattern. He spent the day showing me using one of my very own designs. At first I thought that I would try and take another skill on board, but after seeing how intricate it can be and understanding that it would just add a few more years onto realizing my goals, I decided that I would leave it at that and maybe come to it at another point in life. But, that day was very integral to my knowledge in understanding why a pattern (and how it fits on the last) is so important. I realize that it is not just a shape that makes the shoe, but how the design (pattern) fits on that shape. How it compliments the curvature of the last. This is something that I am now struggling with in my own prototypes. Getting the pattern to fit the last, properly, is no easy feat, especially on your first round of making them. They usually need adjustments. 

Needless to say, this is the final result of my design. You may say, 'oh this is nothing unique,' but if you look carefully, I have extended the adelaide to follow the top line of the shoe, giving it sort of a 'wing-like' characteristic. As well as that, I have minimized the heel counter. I did that because I wanted to emphasize the flannel that I used, so that it would be the main focus of the shoe. And even though some might find these characteristics to be unpractical, I find them to be the refreshing difference to everything else that already exists.

As far as the construction of the shoe goes, allow me to explain. So after Tony and I (really just Tony) completed the pattern, we had one of the closers that he uses sew all of the pieces together. This proved to be a difficult request due to the nature of the fabric. Yet, after a struggle, he still managed to do so and ended doing a very good job on such a difficult piece. The intention was then for me to make the shoes myself, but after a couple of complications, including lack of time and the fragility of the upper, we decided to just have it made in the G&G factory on the DG70 last. And as a surprise, they ended up constructing it with the Deco standard of construction and finish, to give it more of that 'handmade' feel. So that being, the concoction that you see presented here is designed by myself conceptually (and on paper), with the pattern done by Mr. Tony Gaziano, and then made up by the wonderful workers at Gaziano & Girling. The only downfall to all of this, is that this shoe will unfortunately be a one-off, as the flannel used is far to delicate and difficult to put into mass production. But, the design will be something that I incorporate into my first collection.


(Just to reiterate for clarification, this shoe will not be available by either side, and in the future, the design will be made available by me, not G&G)

Shoes Of The Week - Saint Crispins

When I first saw this pair in one single color (posted here) I fell in love with them. But when I saw this pair, by Saint Crispins, in a multiple leather type two-tone, I was absolutely blown away. Time and time again, they make the exact thing that I feel needs to be more present in the shoe industry and it makes me smile to know that other makers/designers appear to be thinking the same thing. So, it comes as no surprise that this company continues to grow, having their shoes being carried at more and more stores around the world, all while they carry a price tag of around $2000. This particular shoe just might be one of my favorite models in circulation at the moment. Not only does it remind of what they used to wear back in the early 20th century, but represents shoes as a piece of art, because looking at this, I would not know whether to wear it or place it on my mantelpiece. Just joking...I would definitely rock them!

Pictures Courtesy Of: Leather Soul

More Japanese Shoes: Otsuka M-5

While this might be sad to hear (for it shows just how much of a freak that I am), I do not think that there are many things more exciting than discovering new brand of shoes which make exactly what I like. This is very much the case with Japanese shoe brand, Otsuka M-5. While it's very hard to gather information on this brand, as I do not speak nor read the Japanese language, it would be safe to infer that they seem to take the best from all worlds and put a Japanese twist on them. While I have read somewhere, of which I cannot remember, I believe that their shoes are made in sunny 'ol England. By the looks of their construction --which you can see on the website-- having a fiddleback and bevelled waist and being obviously goodyear welted, one would think that the factory they use, would be either Edward Green, Alfred Sargent or Crockett & Jones. It not really being that important which factory makes them, what is important is that they have done a good job at taking classic shoes and putting a fun twist on them.




















As you can see from this model above, that occupies the top row as well as the bottom left, it is a style that seems to have been inspired by French shoemakers, particularly Pierre Corthay, as it seems to be something that he has done in the past or at least something similar. And while that might seem pretentious of me to say, as I believe that Japanese designers/shoemakers have proved time again that they make unique pieces that separate them from everyone else, it is not a bad thing, in fact, to have inspiration and utilize it to create something similar. Not being the biggest fan of derbies in general, I think that what they have done to the facing of these shoes, make them that much more appealing, especially the canvas model above, right. And while I loving see shoes like this, it always disappoints me that in order to ever see them in person, I either have to purchase them or take a trip to Tokyo. And while a trip to Tokyo is something that I really want to do, I would very much like this to not be my only option in seeing them in the flesh.

Now, we look at the pictures of above and you see the spectators that remind me of some Edward Green's and then the single monk straps with the hand braided stitch, that might look like something Moreschi would conjure up. And it's wonderful. This brand, does it all!! They don't have just one way about them, they have all the ways of the world, making each one with their own Japanese twist. This is the way that I think that shoes should brands should be. But then again, there would be no distinction between brands if they all did everything. So it's refreshing to see that at least it is offered somewhere. A kind of one-stop-shop brand. I could not imagine going to the store where they sell these, it would literally break my wallet, in half! Well, if anyone has any other information they would like to share on this brand, please do not hesitate to leave it in the comment section, as I am sure that there will be many readers who may wish to know more....