The Beauty Of Made To Order Shoes

Gaziano & Girling St. James II, Courtesy of Zimmermann & Kim

Have you ever seen the coolest shoe ever, only that it came in just black or just brown or just some other color that you really didn't fancy, or just thought was plain boring. I have....about a million times. And what did you do when this happened? Probably nothing, because what could you do, especially if this brand did not have any custom offerings program, more simply known as MTO. Well, for me that is a shame, because the person gets all worked up, only to be left disappointed in the long run. Now, that doesn't mean that every brand in the whole world should have MTO, because it really depends on the factory that produces their shoes, how low they want to make their minimum order and for how much of a mark-up in price (for each shoe) they want to do this at. Some brands don't have a choice, some do. But the ones that do, for me, have a great advantage because the more that time goes on the more that I feel that there are higher numbers of people like me who simply are not satisfied with the common offering available. They want something unique, something that no one else has, something that other people go 'WOW' at.... And if they are creative enough, the executioin of MTO can do this just for them...

Many Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot and L'atelier du Chausseur

I put every picture that I have of the Corthay Wilfred above here....how many do you think came as a stock color offering? Probably about 2 or 3, maximum. But how many of them blow you away? Many none, maybe all of them? Maybe you are the guy that just wants a black or brown shoe? Who knows. But nevertheless, the beauty of MTO is that it allows for the designers/shoemaker to offer a much broader selection of his work. And because of this, the designer may actually be happier. I say this because a concoction that is created by the customer might resonate closer to what the designer would ideally like to make, as opposed to what he actually does, which will most likely be what the 'average consumer' wants. I will be honest with you, when I first thought about starting my shoe line, I just wanted to make extremely unique shoes, much like the bespoke ones that I have made, but as the time gets closer to launching, the more that I realize that I cannot just make what I like, but have to appeal to majority. But fret not, because I am bold enough to take the risk of doing a happy medium by creating things that mix between what I want to see in the market, but also what I believe could appeal to the masses.

G & G, Courtesy of Zimmermann & Kim

Saint Crispins, Courtesy of The Armoury

Edward Green, Courtesy of Leather Soul (I believe)

The only real downfalls of Made To Order shoes, is the amount of time that it usually takes to receive them (which requires a lot of patience) and the possibility of creating something ugly that you will then be stuck with. The second fright will really just be up to you and your idea of pairing colors and/or leathers. But the time constraint, albeit frustrating, is really out of many makers hands. If you think about it in a logical business sense (which every company has to), the factory will always want to put the order of 1000 pairs of shoes, before the order of 1 or 2 MTOs. It would be ideal if each factory just had a section that was strictly for MTO shoes, but that would most likely not be practical without a guarantee of about 100 orders/month, if not more. Therefore, as this will most likely never be the case, the only real downfall to getting a shoe that you customized, is the time that you have to wait for it. But like most good things in life, they are usually worth waiting for....

Grades Of Shoe Craftsmanship

Bespoke models by Corthay

As I have stated before, there seems to be a whole lot of confusion as to how a shoe is made (whether by hand, machine or a bit of both), particularly due to the lack of knowledge from salesmen at retail stores, as well as the misrepresentation of words (such as 'handmade') printed on a shoe itself. These two things, coupled with the gullibility and naïveté of many male consumers, leave a lot of people to believe that their shoes are of a higher quality/grade than they actually are. Normally I wouldn't care about such things, as it's hard to try and correct every lie that people are told each and every day in order to buy such and such product, but as a person who truly cares about the reputation of shoes and the fact that I have my own brand coming out soon, I feel that this issue must be acknowledged, thoroughly and constantly until people start to become more aware. Now some of these terms were created many years ago, and have been modified/altered in terms of their defining features, so I will give the account that I believe to be correct, which just might be up for debate...

Mass Produced

While I have never actually seen this done (as in never been to one of these factories), mass-produced shoes would be the kind that are pumped out thousands by the day, as common sense would tell you. Shoes that are predominantly created by machines, conveyer belts, and chemical products. Think glued shoes, shoes that are selling by the millions a year. There is simply no way that people can be there to pump each and every one of them through. Sure you have people who will work the machines and handle the shoes, as in maintain them electronically or however, so that there are no hiccups in production, but there are definitely not any skilled individuals guiding the shoes along, making sure that every detail is sorted out. These will be the shoes that will retail under $200 (£125). They will be shapeless, use low-grade leather, most likely not be that comfortable and won't last a long amount of time. This is not always the case though, as some brands (whose pockets are deep) have found a way to produce the shoes cheap, but give you something that can rival a decent shoe (think Ecco shoes - decent leather, long-lasting but mass produced).

Bench Grade 

Crockett & Jones

For me, a bench grade shoe denotes the presence of a skilled worker at each machine within the factory, who is actively taking part in the production process by guiding the shoes through each stage of manufacturing. This takes people with years of experience and knowledge. Not any 'ol Joe off of the street could just start doing this.... Now, this next bit is where myself and others might differ, but I don't believe that a bench grade level of craftsmanship strictly refers to goodyear welted shoes. Santoni, for example, who predominantly makes blake stitched shoes, has skilled workers positioned at every machine, guiding the shoes along, in order to produce them. This for me, also indicates a bench grade shoe. Now bench grade shoes, are going to be your entry point into quality footwear. They will use medium grade leathers, have a slightly more shaped last than a mass produced shoe, and will be of better quality overall. However, within the bench grade category of shoe, there will be some makes that are better than others, say C&J versus Loake.

Hand Grade

Edward Green, Photo Courtesy Of: Leffot

A hand grade shoe, will start off like a bench grade one, only that there will be more handwork involved, mainly in the finishing part of production. Things like the waist of the shoe, will be finished with a tool that rounds off the edges (bevelled), fudge wheels being used by hand to create those ridge-like indentations on the welt in order to pronounce the stitching, and the sole will have a channel stitch (closed and clean) as opposed to an open stitch that you can see. Everything will just look a bit cleaner, a bit more artisan. The shoes will be more shapely, as they will leave the last inside of it longer (to gain a strong mold), as well as just have a more shaped last, less bulbous. The leathers all around the shoe will be better, from sole, to upper to lining. But, just because the shoe says hand grade, does not mean that it was made by hand.

Semi-Bespoke/Handmade

Deco Range, by Gaziano & Girling

I had never really believed in using the term 'semi-bespoke,' because I always felt like there was no such way to half create something for someone. As in, being that bespoke is defined as 'spoken for' meaning that something was created specifically (to their measurements when referring to articles of clothing) for someone, then how could it be semi-specific? But, that was until I learned that through Saint Crispins MTO/semi-bespoke program, not only do you get a completely handmade shoe, but they also allow you to alter a preexisting last. This means that it is like the idea of MTM suits, whereby you take a standard block and alter it to someones measurements (not perfect, but close) but then created by hand, instead of machine. This to me, would define semi-bespoke, as well as 'handmade.' Now on the other hand, there is also semi-handmade, like the Deco range by Gaziano & Girling. It is considered so due to the fact that certain parts of the shoe (i.e. the waist), were not only finished by hand, but also lasted and stitched too. Therefore certain parts of the 'making' process were completely done by hand and not by machine.

Bespoke

Bespoke Spat Boot by Anthony Delos

Bespoke shoes are shoes that are completely customized and made entirely (with the exception of the stitching of the upper leather) by hand. This invokes a long process, whereby the customer must get measured by the last maker, talk through design ideas, choose toe shapes and await for his trial fit. After the shoe company has made his last and a mock-up of the shoe for the customer to try for fit, can the shoe then be completed. It usually takes anywhere from 4-6 months, depending on whether or not the customer is new (i.e. has never had a trial fit). Be wary of anything that takes a shorter amount of time or does not involve this process. With a bespoke shoe, there should be no size on the inside, you should then have your own last (but they don't give them to you) and it should (in theory) look like a work of art, and not something that you can pluck off of the shelf...

Shoes Of The Week - Edward Green

Fancy a bit of indigo suede for our lovely Spring season? Well, now you can get some, in the wonderful Malvern model by Edward Green. There really is nothing like a little bit of bluey-purple, purpley-blue suede on a pair of dress shoes. It just really makes them pop, in quite a nice way too. It's bright without being ostentatious, it's tasteful without being overbearing, and it's just plain good because it's Edward Green. A shoe like this is truly amazing for the Spring/Summer seasons and it can really get you through a lot of situations, not only in a casual way, but also in a formal way. Now, when I say formal, I am obviously not referring to black tie, but the sort of formal that happens in the Spring, sort of a casual formal. I feel like formal events in Spring/Summer are usually a bit more on the relaxed side as opposed to a formal gathering in the Fall/Winter. I don't know why...maybe a dark sky needs dark colors and a light sky needs lighter colors....? Nevertheless, for me, a brogue in suede is as formal as one needs to be when the sun is blazing, and this pair here is will certainly set you apart from all those wearing snuff suede....

I hope that everyone who celebrates Easter has a lovely weekend, and those that don't I hope that you have a lovely weekend nonetheless. That being though, I will be in Wales, far away from an internet connection and will therefore be out of commission until Tuesday.

All the best,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Today's Favorites - Edward Green Oundle

Have you ever wondered why the majority of cordovan leather comes in a burgundy color when in fact, it can be made in any color, such as this brown pair of Edward Green Oundles? Well, as I don't know why, I cannot comment further on the matter, but if you happen to, please feel free to leave a comment. Nevertheless, I find myself always being attracted to shoes that come in cordovan leather that is in a different-than-normal color, such as the green pair that Stefano Bemer made or this pair here. And even though I have never really been a fan of the idea of wearing a pair of shoes whose upper leather is as stiff as its sole leather, I have always been so curious about them and having one, maybe just for show...However, I think that I would probably commission one in a blue color of sorts, maybe one shady lighter than navy, as I think that the natural shimmer that cordovan creates, would be lovely in blue. But back to the subject, this pair here is exquisite, not just because it's one of the most handsome monk straps ever made, but because that brown shade of cordovan looks fantastic!

Pictures Courtesy of Leather Soul

What I Am Wearing

I have never really been a big fan of pairing sport coats with trousers, but since I have a few jackets, I try and force myself as much as I can. The reason that I am not such a big fan of it, is the fact that I feel that the outfit always seems to look a bit jumbled, considering the fact that you don't tend to match the color of your trousers to your jacket, which leaves you pairing many colors together. I do have to say though, that this is something that the Italian population has down to a "T," and something that I truly envy them for. But I guess that with money (and time), I will only get better, as I will purposefully coordinate the outfit at the store and then buy it, as opposed to buying separate pieces (like I do) and trying to work them out at home during my morning rush. Nevertheless, utilizing outfits like this (on the more dress-casual side) allows me to wear my loafers more, which I am currently in a phase with....

Shoes: Gieves & Hawkes (by Edward Green and dyed by Paulus Bolten)
Jacket: Pete Werth
Trousers: H&M
Shirt: Ted Baker
Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

First it was colors....Now it will be boots!

For those of you that have been long time readers of the blog, you will know that I have been a big advocate of seeing more abnormal coloring in footwear. Back when I started this blog (in Feb. 2010), I made some predictions indicating that within a year or two, colored shoes (outside of brown and black) were going to be a lot more prevalent in the industry. 2011 marked a big push for that actually coming true. More and more brands were coming out with shoes that did not really fit their overall historical image (at least not in my opinion), such as the shoes made by Edward Green for Hardy Amies (shown above & below). Two quintessential English brands, rooted in the idea of what it means to be a British gentleman, came out with a collaboration that not only blew my mind aesthetically, but also in the sense that for me, it was almost like stepping a bit outside of their boundary to create something a bit more fun and eclectic. And that was the beauty about it....brands that were evolving with the times, creating something that might be a bit out of their norm but beautiful and timeless nonetheless!

Picture Below: Edward Green for Hardy Amies (courtesy of The Shoe Buff)

And while that trend (colors) has come, and will hopefully be here to stay, the next big thing that I think will populate the shelves throughout the year (and next) will be dress boots. There used to be a time --think Victorian/Edwardian eras-- where boots, such as a nice balmoral boot, were the norm and no one wore low cut shoes, as we do now. Granted, I know that this happened to be the case for more of a practical purpose rather than personal choice (due to the streets being solely dirt and therefore lacking pavement). But even though that was the case, I found this look to be quite a bit more intriguing....and elegant. Who is to say that a dress boot can't be just as elegant as a low cut shoe when paired with a suit? I quite enjoy wearing my Gaziano & Girling 'Wigmore' with either a flannel suit or my three-piece, and would even pair other one's (if I had any) so long as the boot was an elegant shape that compliments dress attire. And I could be wrong, but I think more and more people are starting to think like this...

Boots by Corthay

Boots by George Cleverley, Picture Courtesy of: Leather Soul

Everything in the footwear and clothing industry seems to always reinvent itself in some form or another, whether it be toe shapes, colors used, type of style like brogues, boots etc and in my time I have not seen as much enthusiasm for dress boots as I do now. But I don't feel that we are quite at the peak of it all. Soon, if not F/W 2012 or 2013, you will see far more boots offered in collections, more color combinations presented, and if everything goes according to my plan, more materials other than leather being used. And the hope, for me, is that more of you will jump on board and desire these boots. Because, it's time for a nice change, a time to see more elegant boots presented and people wearing them proudly! And even if you go from a boring black cap-toe oxford shoe, to a boring black cap-toe oxford boot, it will be a step in the right direction!

Boots by: Riccardo Bestetti

Wholecut Mid-Top boots by: Imai Hiroki

The Perfect Winter Boot

Septieme Largeur

A few weeks ago, I did a post about the 5 Essential Shoes for Winter and listed that a heavy brogue boot would definitely be one of those shoes to get you through these cold months. What I did not realize then and just recently stumbled upon was the fact that there is another boot, not too far off from this, which I believe could be the ONE shoe (boot) that anyone would ever need for the winter season. That boot being, a light brogue boot with a leather sole, preferably as an oxford as seen here by Septieme Largeur. The reason that I did not think of this, is because you rarely see them. But after getting a pair and thinking about it, it makes perfect sense. Not only does it look good casually but can also be paired with the thicker suits that one tends to wear during the colder months.

As you can see, the features of the boot give it everything it needs to be as a dress shoe: slim sole, sleek last shape, normal heel height etc. The only thing that makes it casual would be the metal, ring eyelets (the bottom ones, as the trouser should always cover the top ones). But they are so nondescript that they create the perfect balance of being not too casual for pairing with suits, but just casual enough to make these boots look real good with a nice pair of jeans. The design, quite admirable, is something that I would have never thought of. And that's why I did not mind actually getting a pair, knowing that I would not put something like this into my first collection, and will now have to think about whether or not I will ever add it at all, for fear of having to give these away!

Edward Green (ladies) -- Leffot

Laszlo Vass

Rider Boot Co.

Perfetto

After wearing them a couple of times and thinking about their versatility, I realized that this very well could be my go-to winter shoe. It's dark, elegant but casual and can be paired with the majority of outfits that one could create, with the exception of fancy dress. That being, I figured that it's the perfect winter boot. Now as a second choice, as the oxford version is hard to find, I would have to say that the derby brogue boot is a good contender. I would not pair it with a suit but it makes a darn fine shoe for jeans and the likes of winter-type trousers such as moleskins and corduroys, just the things that I gravitate towards (as I am sure that you do too) once that weather gets so cold that I can feel it in my bones. And after re-evaluating my shoe collection, I see that oxford shoes are something that I do not really need to add any more of, and boots are something that I have far too little of. Good thing there will be 3 different boots in my first collection. I won't mind nicking a couple of pairs....

Alden

Edward Green -- Photo courtesy of Leffot