Today's Favorites - Saint Crispin's

Saint Crispin's shoes never cease to amaze me! And while their shoes are not off-the-wall or anything, they have this feel and look about them that just sets them completely apart from the rest. Also the little details, like the saddle type of leather piece on the monk strap right above and the lacing on the loafer (in the background) of picture 3 of 6, from the top. Like I have said before, in a saturated world, it's hard to really create something completely new that has not already been done before so what you find is the little minute details that will start to set you apart but also really bring out your creativity and look. Probably my favorite thing though that Saint Crispin's does is add quite a thick, yet sleek sole to their dress shoes. It's funny because I hate clunky things, but because they cut the sides of the sole very close to the shape of the last, it takes away that heavy feeling and gives you a pretty sturdy dress shoe. I just wish that they were more easily accessible!!

Photos Courtesy Of: Style Forum

Today's Favorites - Barker Black

Here are just a few of the bad-ass Barker Black shoes that grace shoe shelves around the world. While I have known about Barker Black for quite some time, I have yet to really put their shoes up on my blog and I can't realize why, especially since I think that they make some very cool shoes. I guess, like many things, it just slipped my mind. But better late than never, right? Right! Anyway, if you don't know about Barker Black, best you study up. To give a quick bio, the company is an offset of Barker (from England) created by two American brothers (although Derrick is the founding brother) in the successful attempt to take an old and relatively fading company and revamp it's image, which they sure did! And ever since then, they have taken the shoe industry by storm, creating some very new and unique designs that truly set them apart as industry leaders! Enjoy the pics and look out for more!

When a Shoe Looks Like a Piece of Art

The problem with bespoke shoes, is that sometimes they look so damn good that they don't even look like footwear, more just look like art for the sake of showcasing. For me, Riccardo Bestetti's shoes resemble this idea, probably more so than any other maker that I know. The reason that I say this, even though I may believe other makers make shoes more directed to my particular taste, is the fact that when I look at his shoes, they look like they were done by hand, without a second guess, just like a piece of art would be. The lines (and/or curvature) in his footwear from heel to sole, from toe to vamp, to the shaping of the last and the coloring of the leather are all things that you could never really see on a RTW shoe (a shoe done by machine). These are all things that he has done himself, with his passion for footwear, and trying to make the best final product possible. And he does a damn good job at doing so, because I must say that even if I don't like a shoe that he does, say because of the style or shape of the toe, you can be sure that I will at least respect and admire it and still find it beautiful. There is no denying that each shoe that I have posted here is an absolute work of art. You can't help but like them, even if you would never wear them. That's inspirational, and I commend Mr. Bestetti for his talent!

On a side note, I wanted to say that I appreciate everyone that either left a comment or emailed me directly in regards to the email that I received from that reader. I truly appreciate all of the support, the kind words, and vote of confidence that many of you have for me. And while I would never let something like this ever stop me from doing what I feel that I need and want to do, I must say that it is all of you (no corniness here) that help to keep me going, especially when the end of that tunnel looks miles away. I therefore truly thank each and every one of you that continue to read my blog, make comments and support my dreams. And I hope that with my growth, I can continue to repay you all with something entertaining yet knowledgeable to read, as well as great footwear and the complementary products!

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

The Perfect Shoe For Spring 2012

I have always had a hard time balancing smart and casual. I either tend to want to wear a suit with dress shoes, or jeans with trainers...only being forced to do the whole in-between as I have to for work. Part of this problem is finding the right shoe to tie together the smart-casual look. That, I think, has been my biggest problem. Suede is usually a good balance as it can be smart, but also casual at the same time. Same thing with the loafer style. It's clean looking, simple and can look great with some smart jeans or nice, dress-casual trousers. But the icing on the cake, for me, in regards to this shoe presented, would have to be the crepe sole. It's texture, color and comfort give it that one-up when it comes to being 'dress casual.' A leather sole on it would make it too dressy looking, a dark rubber sole would be too boring, but the contrasted crepe gives it everything it needs in order to be fun, yet still maintain it's sharp look.

Funny enough, this model is a collaboration between Japanese clothing brand Deluxe, and English shoemakers Loake, a brand that I must say that I have not been too particularly fond of in the past. But these here give me a new respect for Loake and make me want to go search for them, and then buy them, as I believe that would get a lot of use out of me! But I have a feeling that they will be a hard find, which is probably for the best anyway, as I need to save up!

Pictures Courtesy Of: The Shoe Buff

Today's Favorites - Gaziano & Girling Saddle Loafers

There is nothing quite like a nice loafer. They are so versatile and pleasing simply for the fact that you don't have to bend over to tie them. I mean, what more could you really ask for? It's laziness at its finest! If you must though, then allow me to elaborate....They go great with jeans, amazing with chinos, workable with suits, and pretty much every other trouser that you can think of....And I really never realized how much I liked them until one day I finally had all of my shoes together, was looking for a brown oxford and realized that I did not have hardly any.....just a bunch of dang loafers! Not that I am complaining by any means, but just found it quite funny especially since my heel is so narrow which makes for a hard loafer fit. But I think that my appreciation for them exploded times 10 when I saw these bad boys by Gaziano & Girling. They are absolutely stunning and signify the beauty of the Made-To-Order idea. Made from the Joyce pattern, on the Deco last with a polo suede upper makes this one of those shoes, that if they were made for me, would get a regrettable amount of wear, and that being a good thing....regrettable because I would wear them into the ground!.....To the client that ordered them: GOOD CHOICE!

Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot

The Downfall Of Church's Shoes

Ever since the Prada group purchased English footwear brand, Church's, there continuously seems to be a steady decline in quality, integrity and style, almost as if Prada is turning Church's into a fashion company, much like Prada itself. I don't understand this, as the old saying goes, "don't fix something that isn't broken," and Church's were not broken, at least not in integrity....They used to make a lovely shoe, one that used good leather, could last you nearly a lifetime, and held it's classic yet fundamental values of making a great English-made shoe. These days, I just can't seem to say that I feel that this is still the motto. Now, it's like, 'what trend can we tackle next?' Sometimes it works, like this SS2012 collection with all of their colored suede loafers. That was a brilliant idea. Classic with a subtle twist. But camouflage on the soles? Really? That's so in style with the fashion houses right now, but not something that I would expect to see being done by +100 year old classic shoe company. They are meant to live out style....not follow trends that won't last. As stupid as it may sound, sometimes I actually feel sad that a company with such a great heritage, seems to be loosing all of its history, through bad decisions by people who don't actually care about what it took to create this name, a name that was synonymous with good shoes, but only seem intent on tearing it down. What a shame....
 

Pictures Courtesy Of: The Shoe Buff

What I Am Wearing

I have never really been a big fan of pairing sport coats with trousers, but since I have a few jackets, I try and force myself as much as I can. The reason that I am not such a big fan of it, is the fact that I feel that the outfit always seems to look a bit jumbled, considering the fact that you don't tend to match the color of your trousers to your jacket, which leaves you pairing many colors together. I do have to say though, that this is something that the Italian population has down to a "T," and something that I truly envy them for. But I guess that with money (and time), I will only get better, as I will purposefully coordinate the outfit at the store and then buy it, as opposed to buying separate pieces (like I do) and trying to work them out at home during my morning rush. Nevertheless, utilizing outfits like this (on the more dress-casual side) allows me to wear my loafers more, which I am currently in a phase with....

Shoes: Gieves & Hawkes (by Edward Green and dyed by Paulus Bolten)
Jacket: Pete Werth
Trousers: H&M
Shirt: Ted Baker
Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

It's All In The Detail

Picture Courtesy Of: Moda Image

One of my dear blog readers, who frequents London as business calls, just happen to pop in today for an updated chat on life, shoes and the future of my career. Because he happened to visit me in the flesh, I showed him the pictures (via my camera phone) that I have of my upcoming collection. The pictures show what is current with my prototype production, but we still have a month or so before they are complete. Nevertheless, he was able to get an idea of my collection to come and a feeling of how it differs from others while at the same time provides a feeling of familiarity: 'classics with a twist.'

We discussed that in a saturated market, where everything under the sun has already been done, the one thing that differentiates one another, is the minute detailing. That being, when I saw these loafers (above), by Aubercy, they immediately stood out to me. Granted, some people would not appreciate this. But for someone like me who has seen 10 million different pairs of shoes is his life and purposefully looks at them, this would have just been another loafer (of a trillion) in calf and suede, had it not that the red stitching. But because it does have this contrasted stitching, it no longer is one of a trillion, it becomes one of one (or maybe 2 or 3 etc). It stands out and makes me stop and say, "now there is something different, something worth pausing to give a double-take."

And this is what I hope to do for all of you. To give you something that stands out, not in an loud or ostentatious way, but in a way that is discreet yet noticeable. A way that says that you, the wearer, appreciate your shoes and the small details in life, the little ones that make us stand out from the crowd....

Loafers With Suits

A topic that is always good for discussion, which usually ends up in subjective opposing views, is more likely than not, a topic that is worth revisiting. And while I am pretty sure that I have never brought up this topic before, I believe that there are many opinions about the subject at hand. Since I am currently dressed in the fashion that I am presenting, please allow me to share with all of you, my subjective viewpoint on loafers with suits.

While an oxford will always be a more formal shoe than a loafer there are still many options of slip on's that are elegantly compatible to a suit. Anybody who says otherwise needs to learn that the so called 'rules' set out by well-dressed gentleman many years ago, were not the 'end all be all' and definitely do not dictate what one should wear but rather guide them to dressing elegantly. After that, style sets in and people decide for themselves (based on personal preferences) what will look good on them. Some of them pull it off and some of them don't.

Now the beauty about wearing loafers with your suits is that you are able to show off your socks. But this is dangerous game, because there is a fine line between doing what looks good and doing something that is horribly off. I have my own opinions about this and I will present them here as we shall go through what works and what doesn't.


ALWAYS

 

Shoes By: Hugo Boss 

Wearing socks that match your suit are generally regarded as a safe way to go. Granted, it's not always that fun as it kind of just blends your suit into your shoes, but it's always a sure way to not drag attention and to look more on the elegant side of things. However, you can spice it up while still playing it relatively safe by having a two-toned sock with one color matching your trousers and the other of a complimentary color. That way you are being safe but also adding a bit of spice to your outfit. Me being the style freak that I am, I usually will like to have that complimentary color (the one that does not match my trouser) match either my shirt or my tie.

SOMETIMES

Shoes By: Poulsen & Skone for Gieves & Hawkes

Before coming to England, I used to love wearing striped socks (like the ones I am wearing above) and quite frankly still do, but must admit I have been overtaken for an admiration of bright, solid color socks that you find many British men wearing. As you can see here, my friend and colleague, Stuart, is doing the right thing in this scenario by pairing complimentary colors coming from his shoes, socks and trousers (navy suit). So, when I say that this look is 'sometimes', it's because there are instances when people become a little overzealous and start wearing socks that completely clash and stick out like a sore thumb, causing a bit of overkill. Sorry that I don't have an example of that, but I am sure that you will know what I mean at the first instance that you see it.  

NEVER

Right Picture Courtesy Of: The Sartorialist

While Lapo Elkann is a dandy and wears some of the coolest outfits, and the guy on the right is incredibly sharp, I just find it very hard to appreciate the idea of going sock-less when wearing a sharp suit or black loafers. To me, it's just big clash, from the look to the elegance of it to the fact that neither one of these people are in a tropical area. Granted, there is a place and a time and a color of suit and loafers when wanting to go sock-less, but neither one of these cases fits the criteria. Wearing a linen suit, with some brown (or lighter shades of color) loafers, in an area that is humid, sunny and full of palm trees, smoking a cigar with your Borsalino hat on: this is time for going sock-less with your suit. But having a navy suit with black loafers, just doesn't mesh. It's too trendy and not timeless and therefore I give it the thumbs down.

And while there is no right or wrong, there definitely is what looks good and what doesn't. Now, coming from a relatively non-traditionalist background, my rules are pretty lenient. Others however, would not even pair loafers with suits, but that way of thinking is not going to be around much longer. So, if you have always been on the fence, give it a go, and play around with your socks, because I can tell you, the people who make me look twice at their outfits are the ones who are going bold but also staying classic and elegant at the same time. Figure that on out!

Shoes Of The Week - Berluti's Blue Beauties

I have always had this love/hate relationship with Berluti. I have always loved them for their stylistic nature. I must say that the designers, for me, have always hit the nail on the head and made some of the most elegant shoes that I have ever seen. I have always hated them for their price vs. cost vs. quality factor and how I believe that their mark up is way beyond reason, which will also mean that I will most likely never be able to afford one, or at least won't need (nor want) to get one when I can afford it. But I simply cannot deny their beauty and must admire them for their boldness in coming out with pieces that are unique, colorful and at the same time maintain a manner of elegance.

So when a client came to me with a pair of these to shine, I immediately fell in love with them. I mean, they already had a couple notches in my book, simply for the fact that they were blue (being my favorite color and all) but also due to their uniquely intriguing design. Essentially, it's a whole cut loafer. But they managed to sew on the penny strap (directly on top) and weave through the leather to make the apron as a boat shoe would with it's side laces. While I am sure that this is not the only shoe to have had this done, I can say that I have not seen it before, or at least did not take notice if I did. Nevertheless, among the sea of black shoes that I regularly get, I always love something like this that takes the monotony out of the job....