Today's Favorites - Bestetti's 'Gladiators'

It's been another one of those Mondays that I just could not seem to get the time to bust out my long post. That being, it will have to wait until tomorrow, and you all will just have to settle with a short, but sweet post for today.

While I had never really been the biggest fan of this type of shoe, until I saw a version made by Riccardo Bestetti, I must say that with shoes like this, amongst others that he has done, he continues to impress me with the concoctions that creates. I almost feel that with the way that he shapes his lasts, he could make an ugly pattern look good, and that's saying a lot. Nevertheless, this model here, as he coined 'The Gladiotor,' is actually one of his personal shoes, as is indicated from the word 'Mie' that is shown on his last, which means 'mine.' And what a name given intelligently....for this shoe looks like it could go to hell and back and still be standing. Nevertheless, I thought that some of you might appreciate this.

Another thing that you might all appreciate is the fact that today I am meeting with some individuals who are going to be creating the website for my Shoe Snob shoe products, of which I will sell off of so that I can stop using eBay....I am quite excited about this and getting it off of the ground......my shoes on the other hand, are still happening, but are taking quite a standstill as there have been some kinks in my ability to go to the factory....But fret not, these shoes will come out, I promise!

Shoes Of The Week - Pigskin Wholecuts by Carreducker

The more that I see pigskin used for shoemaking, the more that it grows on me. At first I was not so keen on it, not really sure why, just that I wasn't. But with each time that I get to see a new shoe made up using it, the more that I begin to appreciate the uniqueness of its texture and coloring. Now I could be making this up in my head, but having been around the two or three bespoke models that I have shined, I always seem to notice that the toe area's texture is a bit different than the rest of the shoe (as shown best in last picture). It's as if that when they were lasted over, the grain of the skin expanded and became a lot more smooth and prominent. It's quite a nice look and makes for a great toe shine. This model here, made by Carreducker, is almost precisely how I would want one should it ever come to that. I feel like when it comes to exotic leather, being that most of them have some sort of ostentatious texture to them, they are best served without any added detail i.e. stitching. That being, a whole cut provides the best pattern for them, at least my mind. But that does not mean that I do not appreciate them (exotic leather shoes) in other examples....just that I much more prefer the beautiful blank canvas of the whole cut....particularly in a nice pigskin!

Red Trousers....Get Some!

I am not 100% positive in saying this, but I am quite sure that I prior to moving to Europe to study shoemaking, I never ever saw anyone wear red trousers. But over here in Europe, they are literally a staple piece in most stylish mens' wardrobe, which I think is quite great! I feel like many men in the States (or maybe just Seattle, where I am from) are mentally confined to simply wearing either navy, gray or khaki colored trousers. Yet over here, come Spring, you see everything but those, ranging from canary yellow, to baby blue to bright green. Obviously not everyone partakes in the colored trouser activity, but it is quite appealing to see just how elaborate people's outfits can become when they do give it a shot. While I can't say that I own any of those other colors that I just listed, I do find myself gravitating towards my reds quite often. And the nice thing about them (at least the color) is that they are not simply for spring occasions, being that they are a deeper red, which allows me to also put them on in the fall/winter. So, if you don't own a pair, I suggest you reconsider....it will liven up your wardrobe!

Shoes: Septieme Largeur (with custom blue patina)
Trousers: Zara
Jacket: Pete Werth
Jumper: Intimissimi
Shirt: Primark
Bow Tie: Gieves & Hawkes

The Downfall Of Church's Shoes

Ever since the Prada group purchased English footwear brand, Church's, there continuously seems to be a steady decline in quality, integrity and style, almost as if Prada is turning Church's into a fashion company, much like Prada itself. I don't understand this, as the old saying goes, "don't fix something that isn't broken," and Church's were not broken, at least not in integrity....They used to make a lovely shoe, one that used good leather, could last you nearly a lifetime, and held it's classic yet fundamental values of making a great English-made shoe. These days, I just can't seem to say that I feel that this is still the motto. Now, it's like, 'what trend can we tackle next?' Sometimes it works, like this SS2012 collection with all of their colored suede loafers. That was a brilliant idea. Classic with a subtle twist. But camouflage on the soles? Really? That's so in style with the fashion houses right now, but not something that I would expect to see being done by +100 year old classic shoe company. They are meant to live out style....not follow trends that won't last. As stupid as it may sound, sometimes I actually feel sad that a company with such a great heritage, seems to be loosing all of its history, through bad decisions by people who don't actually care about what it took to create this name, a name that was synonymous with good shoes, but only seem intent on tearing it down. What a shame....
 

Pictures Courtesy Of: The Shoe Buff

Grades Of Shoe Craftsmanship

Bespoke models by Corthay

As I have stated before, there seems to be a whole lot of confusion as to how a shoe is made (whether by hand, machine or a bit of both), particularly due to the lack of knowledge from salesmen at retail stores, as well as the misrepresentation of words (such as 'handmade') printed on a shoe itself. These two things, coupled with the gullibility and naïveté of many male consumers, leave a lot of people to believe that their shoes are of a higher quality/grade than they actually are. Normally I wouldn't care about such things, as it's hard to try and correct every lie that people are told each and every day in order to buy such and such product, but as a person who truly cares about the reputation of shoes and the fact that I have my own brand coming out soon, I feel that this issue must be acknowledged, thoroughly and constantly until people start to become more aware. Now some of these terms were created many years ago, and have been modified/altered in terms of their defining features, so I will give the account that I believe to be correct, which just might be up for debate...

Mass Produced

While I have never actually seen this done (as in never been to one of these factories), mass-produced shoes would be the kind that are pumped out thousands by the day, as common sense would tell you. Shoes that are predominantly created by machines, conveyer belts, and chemical products. Think glued shoes, shoes that are selling by the millions a year. There is simply no way that people can be there to pump each and every one of them through. Sure you have people who will work the machines and handle the shoes, as in maintain them electronically or however, so that there are no hiccups in production, but there are definitely not any skilled individuals guiding the shoes along, making sure that every detail is sorted out. These will be the shoes that will retail under $200 (£125). They will be shapeless, use low-grade leather, most likely not be that comfortable and won't last a long amount of time. This is not always the case though, as some brands (whose pockets are deep) have found a way to produce the shoes cheap, but give you something that can rival a decent shoe (think Ecco shoes - decent leather, long-lasting but mass produced).

Bench Grade 

Crockett & Jones

For me, a bench grade shoe denotes the presence of a skilled worker at each machine within the factory, who is actively taking part in the production process by guiding the shoes through each stage of manufacturing. This takes people with years of experience and knowledge. Not any 'ol Joe off of the street could just start doing this.... Now, this next bit is where myself and others might differ, but I don't believe that a bench grade level of craftsmanship strictly refers to goodyear welted shoes. Santoni, for example, who predominantly makes blake stitched shoes, has skilled workers positioned at every machine, guiding the shoes along, in order to produce them. This for me, also indicates a bench grade shoe. Now bench grade shoes, are going to be your entry point into quality footwear. They will use medium grade leathers, have a slightly more shaped last than a mass produced shoe, and will be of better quality overall. However, within the bench grade category of shoe, there will be some makes that are better than others, say C&J versus Loake.

Hand Grade

Edward Green, Photo Courtesy Of: Leffot

A hand grade shoe, will start off like a bench grade one, only that there will be more handwork involved, mainly in the finishing part of production. Things like the waist of the shoe, will be finished with a tool that rounds off the edges (bevelled), fudge wheels being used by hand to create those ridge-like indentations on the welt in order to pronounce the stitching, and the sole will have a channel stitch (closed and clean) as opposed to an open stitch that you can see. Everything will just look a bit cleaner, a bit more artisan. The shoes will be more shapely, as they will leave the last inside of it longer (to gain a strong mold), as well as just have a more shaped last, less bulbous. The leathers all around the shoe will be better, from sole, to upper to lining. But, just because the shoe says hand grade, does not mean that it was made by hand.

Semi-Bespoke/Handmade

Deco Range, by Gaziano & Girling

I had never really believed in using the term 'semi-bespoke,' because I always felt like there was no such way to half create something for someone. As in, being that bespoke is defined as 'spoken for' meaning that something was created specifically (to their measurements when referring to articles of clothing) for someone, then how could it be semi-specific? But, that was until I learned that through Saint Crispins MTO/semi-bespoke program, not only do you get a completely handmade shoe, but they also allow you to alter a preexisting last. This means that it is like the idea of MTM suits, whereby you take a standard block and alter it to someones measurements (not perfect, but close) but then created by hand, instead of machine. This to me, would define semi-bespoke, as well as 'handmade.' Now on the other hand, there is also semi-handmade, like the Deco range by Gaziano & Girling. It is considered so due to the fact that certain parts of the shoe (i.e. the waist), were not only finished by hand, but also lasted and stitched too. Therefore certain parts of the 'making' process were completely done by hand and not by machine.

Bespoke

Bespoke Spat Boot by Anthony Delos

Bespoke shoes are shoes that are completely customized and made entirely (with the exception of the stitching of the upper leather) by hand. This invokes a long process, whereby the customer must get measured by the last maker, talk through design ideas, choose toe shapes and await for his trial fit. After the shoe company has made his last and a mock-up of the shoe for the customer to try for fit, can the shoe then be completed. It usually takes anywhere from 4-6 months, depending on whether or not the customer is new (i.e. has never had a trial fit). Be wary of anything that takes a shorter amount of time or does not involve this process. With a bespoke shoe, there should be no size on the inside, you should then have your own last (but they don't give them to you) and it should (in theory) look like a work of art, and not something that you can pluck off of the shelf...

Shoe Of The Day - Altan Bottier

Dear Readers,

I know that I normally do long posts on Monday, and I actually was writing one and had finished all of the text, when the internet froze and deleted a paragraph and a half of writing. Today has already been "one of those days" and now I simply can't be bothered to finish it by tonight. That being, feast your eyes on these beauties, by Altan Bottier, and please come back tomorrow to read my post about the different grades of shoe craftsmanship.

Thanks for your understanding.

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

They Are Listening....And It Is About Time!!

I don't know if it is because of shoe designers like Mark McNairy and Grenson (of whom were amongst the first to come out with abnormal coloring in shoes) or because of my blog, and other ones like mine, but it would finally seem that the brands that may have once been seen as strictly conservative in their shoe making are now branching out and becoming a bit more eclectic! Never in a million years would I have thought to see Allen Edmonds making shoes in colors such as green, blue and red, and even more so using colored laces outside of black and brown. But this day has indeed come and it's quite refreshing to see. And the reason that this excites me, is because a company like Allen Edmonds, who has been making shoes for nearly 100 years and has quite an extensive and loyal customer base, also has the power to get men to think differently. So if more and more men who think that dress shoes should only be black or brown start to see their favorite brand release red shoes, blue shoes and green shoes, then it might just get them to realize that shoes can be fun, and don't have to be something that is simply necessary to complete ones outfit, but rather enhance ones outfit!

Just a reminder, if you are in London, fancy a chat or are interested in checking out Carmina's shoes, then I would suggest a quick pop over to the Rook & Raven (just north of Oxford st.) tomorrow from 11am-6pm.....hope to see some of you there!

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

The Green Machine

The thing about green is that when you are able to create the perfect shade of it (think a mix between emerald and forest), it can become one of the most stunning colors there is. While I won't say that the color that I created on these bespoke brogues is perfect, I will say that it is lovely shade that I happen to find extremely versatile. Not only does it pair well with this light gray POW, but I also enjoy mixing it with my navy three piece. And the best thing is that while this green might have been a bit bright for some people, I feel that because of all the brogueing, it tones it down a bit and separates all of that green. Then again, it does so because I blacked out each hole with a permanent marker....Anyway, back to the subject: green brogues = cool, but what's even better is the idea of creating an entire range of brogues in every color that would be appropriate for smart, casual wear. In particular, a full blue brogue...now that sounds appealing!

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me (with Gaziano & Girling "Rothschild" upper)
Suit: Readjusted bespoke by Chittleborough & Morgan
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Tie Rack

Today's Favorites - Bottega Veneta - Denim Dress Shoes

Picture Courtesy Of: The Shoe Buff

One of the coolest shoes that I have ever seen (believe it or not) was a pair of Hugo Boss shoes that were a mix between brown leather and bright blue jean denim, in the pattern of a spectator (co-respondent). Now, I can't say if I would feel the same way about them today, as this was about 6 years ago and my tastes have changed since then, but I still remember the vivid feeling of 'wow,' those are cool! And ever since that day, I have been curious about the mixture of denim and leather, particularly on a pair of shoes. That being, when I saw this denim model, by Bottega Veneta, I was quite intrigued, even though it was lacking the leather bit of that memorable combination. But in actuality, I quite like it being solely in denim, as even though it is in a dress cut (pattern), it still has a casual feel to them. And this look makes me think that it would be the perfect shoe to wear with chinos, or any kind of casually smart trouser.

Even though I may not be the biggest fan of designer/fashion labels, I can say that what I do like about them is that they are not afraid to try anything, and sometimes that 'anything' turns out to be something quite cool and exciting, such this model here is for me. I don't think that Crockett & Jones or any other reputable high-end shoemaker would have ever considered releasing this to the world....

Shoe Sizing.....Yet Another Thing To Work Out

Photo Courtesy Of: Big In Japan

Most of you probably think that I am some kind of chord stuck on repeat, with all of the posts I have about my shoes this and my shoes that, but I'll truly tell you, if ever you have been involved in the production of a new product, it takes a whole lot longer than one might imagine to get it up to scratch. Granted, some people may rush this out and have it out in no time, but if you are entering a market that is a bit saturated, you are going to want to make sure that your product differentiates itself the best that it can, so that it does not get lost in that sea of monotonous product, but rather stands out like the breath of fresh air that everyone needed. Now, in no way am I guaranteeing that my product line will be that breath of fresh air for you, but you can bet that I am doing my best to make sure that it is as close as possible in every which way: from style, to fit, to quality/price ratio etc. First and foremost, I had to get the style (patterns) and last shapes right, because inelegant and/or ugly shoes just won't sell no matter what the case. And now that I have this pretty much sorted out, my next hurdle is to make sure that I get the sizing right, not only in how I label my sizes (making sure that my 10 does not fit like an 11), but also in how I offer my range i.e. 7UK-11UK.

The difficult thing about sizing is that most countries have their own way of calculating it, thus creating a bit of confusion for many consumers that are trying to make an international purchase. For example, if you go to Japan, a lot of their shoes are measured in centimeters. If you are American (or are also on the imperial system), you are going to have a tough time figuring out your size without having to measure your feet, and vice versa for people from Japan coming to the UK or US. Now this becomes an even bigger problem when calculating the width sizing as well, and then imagine having to buy online....it's a mess, and can create a lot of confusion for both the customer and supplier. Every now and then, you can find quite an accurate chart (like the one below), that will differentiate for you what one size might convert to in another system, but even this means nothing in reality, because what it really boils down to is how the shoemaker/designer decided to label his stock lasts. For instance, my "UK7E" last (which would should equate to a US 8D, or about EU40.5) in reality, fits like a UK7EE (which should then equate to a US8E, and bump up to a 41). Now, I could keep my shoes labeled as UK7E and just have them be a shoe that runs a bit on the generous size, or label them a UK7EE, and be standard. Now, funny enough, while they do not look wide by any means, having that "EE" would deter many Americans from buying them, because in their mind, that signifies quite a wide fitting shoe, even though my shoes are not wide, just a bit generous.

So what I am doing now, in order to get this right, is having my shoes made up for me (keeping the way that they are now) in a 6.5E, but then also having them pretend as if my 7E is really a EE, duplicating it and then shaving off one width to make it an actual 7E. That way, I can compare and hopefully get an accurate account of what they really are. But someone who has a bit more experience in English fitting shoes told me that right now, they would compare my width to a C&J 'EX' fitting, which would be in between an E and an F. This is not exactly what I had in mind when making the shoes, but I know that this fitting is quite appreciated by the English people whom tend to have a broader forefoot, and high insteps. But that being, while deciding my sizes (and how to label them), I have to take into account, not just the English gentleman, but everyone else. So, as I continue to explain each predicament that I come across, I hope that you can now more easily understand why my range has yet to be released, even though I have been talking about it forever now....

Just because I know that you all hope to see new shoes when reading the blog, I will show you another color combination that I am offering my balmoral boot in:

The Armoury, Carmina, The Shoe Snob, London Trunk Show

For those that may not be aware, The Armoury, is a clothier in Hong Kong that specializes in artisanal offerings for men. One of these brands is Carmina, a recognized Spanish shoemaker, of whom I have just recently become very fond of. Now I had always know about them (Carmina), as well as heard good things, but it wasn't until the owner of The Armoury (Mr. Mark Cho) asked me to shine the samples for this upcoming event, that I truly became aware of just how amazing Carmina's shoes actually are. After I picked them up and took each one out of its box, my mouth kept dropping one notch further and further for how simply amazing they were. Not only for the array of models, but for how incredibly well constructed they were. Everything about them was spot on, and I was ashamed to know that I had not been privy to this knowledge prior to this point. Nevertheless, I now know and will definitely be recommending them more on this blog. That being, here is my first recommendation. On April 20th-21st (Fri.-Sat.), The Armoury is holding a trunk show (of which I will be attending as well as offering my services - on the Sat.), showcasing their Carmina models. If you are in London at this time and looking for some new shoes, then I highly recommend coming to at least have a look. I promise that you won't be disappointed.

For more info on the trunk show, READ HERE

Pictures Courtesy Of: The Armoury & Photographer Harry Watts

What I Am Wearing

One of the biggest perks about working at a tailor's shop (apart from the amazing alterations that I manage to sneak in) is the fact that I get to take part in some of the best deals, like sample sales and private sales for the staff. Recently there was a sale for all of the staff of G&H of which they were offering some of the archival pieces from their military collection. A lot of this stuff was bespoke made and aged in range from 5-50+ years. It was on a first come first serve basis, so I managed to get in early and nab a couple of brilliant pieces such as this double-breasted naval blazer. Luckily for me, none of the insignia that typically adorns naval clothing was affixed to the jacket, so there were minimal alterations, especially considering the fact that it was as if the gentleman that they made it for was identical to me, only from the 1970's. Nevertheless, I have been very fortunate in my time here with being able to acquire some lovely clothing, and I must say that it has been a great pleasure having this advantage! (Sorry don't mean to rub it in...)

Shoes: Septieme Largeur
Blazer: Gieves & Hawkes
Trousers: H&M
Shirt: TK Maxx brand
Tie: XMI 

Marc Guyot: Colors, Colors, Colors!!!

If there is one thing that I like about Marc Guyot, it's the fact that he is one guy who is certainly not afraid of a bit of color. Whether or not you would fancy the outfit he wears or the shoes that he makes, you have to respect him for having the courage to be different. While certain things may be considered ostentatious, I find them pleasingly different, especially in a world that sometimes feels overly monotonous. This new range of shoes that he has, gives a whole new meaning to the idea of colored shoes, where not only are there bold colors being used, but bold colors being combined! While this is certainly not the first time that a shoe designer has done this, I must say that some of the combinations caught me by surprise. They did so by making me realize that certain colors that I would never think to wear, nor combine, actually look amazing well! What I am referring to is the split-toe derby in orangy-brown/puke green. Now, in no way is that description an attempt at insult (what other green would it be), but an actual realization of prejudices (orange colored leather - never fancied that before?) being overturn by the power of observation through skilled design by Mr. Guyot himself! Nevertheless, I tip my hat to Mr. Guyot for being a man that does what he likes, and not necessarily what everyone else likes!

Shoe Pictures Courtesy Of: Parisian Gentleman
Marc Guyot Photo Courtesy Of: The Dandy Portraits