Shoes Of The Week - Pigskin Wholecuts by Carreducker

The more that I see pigskin used for shoemaking, the more that it grows on me. At first I was not so keen on it, not really sure why, just that I wasn't. But with each time that I get to see a new shoe made up using it, the more that I begin to appreciate the uniqueness of its texture and coloring. Now I could be making this up in my head, but having been around the two or three bespoke models that I have shined, I always seem to notice that the toe area's texture is a bit different than the rest of the shoe (as shown best in last picture). It's as if that when they were lasted over, the grain of the skin expanded and became a lot more smooth and prominent. It's quite a nice look and makes for a great toe shine. This model here, made by Carreducker, is almost precisely how I would want one should it ever come to that. I feel like when it comes to exotic leather, being that most of them have some sort of ostentatious texture to them, they are best served without any added detail i.e. stitching. That being, a whole cut provides the best pattern for them, at least my mind. But that does not mean that I do not appreciate them (exotic leather shoes) in other examples....just that I much more prefer the beautiful blank canvas of the whole cut....particularly in a nice pigskin!

Carreducker Trunk Shows & Saint Crispin Event

Photo Courtesy Of: Adrian Lourie (London)

I thought that this little bit of information might interest some of you.....

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

TRUNK SHOW

 

Carreducker is off to the US next week for its first joint Gieves & Hawkes / carréducker bespoke Trunk Show to the USA. 

14 & 15 October at The Intercontinental Chicago

17, 18 & 19 October at The Plaza, New York

Alongside the company's more adventurous samples, they are showcasing the Mayfair collection - the ultimate black bespoke shoes - a pared-back Oxford, Wholecut, Derby and Loafer - as well as offering rubber soles as an option for bespoke customers (not just popular, but essential on America’s east coast).  Having bespoke shoemaking and tailoring together is convenient and an ideal opportunity for customers to go for a full top-to-toe bespoke wardrobe. Customers can make an appointment with carreducker by email at cd@carreducker.com and with Head Cutter Kathryn Sargent at sargentk@gievesandhawkes.com

ST CRISPIN'S DAY 

As you know, October is a very special month in the shoemaking calendar as we celebrate the patron saint of shoemakers Saints Crispin and Hugh on 25 October. Both men were disinherited by their wealthy families and became shoemakers before being finally put to death: St Crispin in France in 288 A.D. and St. Hugh in England. St Hugh’s name lives on as the nickname for a shoemaker’s tools - Sir Hugh’s Bones. 

The day is normally one of revelry and holiday but we shall instead be showing off our skills throughout the week in the Gieves & Hawkes flagship store window on Vigo street. Please come by to wave at us and to say ‘hi’ at 10.30am, 12.30pm and 3pm.

My Shoes #23 - Carreducker Winkers

I just recently acquired a pair of the 'Winkers resort shoe' by Carreducker, and man do I like them. They are just so different from your normal kick-around loafer. As you can see, they are not made from your ordinary materials. They are made by Harris Tweed. And being such a sucker for shoes made with fabrics, as opposed to leather, I have been eye-balling them for awhile now. Being that the sun is such a rare commodity here in London, I went for a color that could be easily worn in all seasons.Plus, gray is a win-win anyway, it's just so versatile.

You see me here wearing them in a kind of dress-casual way, but I have to say, that they did not go that great with my outfit. For me, they fit much more the jean look or something a little bit more casual in the upper area. Not to say that my outfit was not good, but there could have been a better representation of how to wear these. I just don't always have time to ask people to snap photos of me when I am wearing my best outfits, so sometimes I have to just settle with what I decided to throw together during my morning rush. When I start my shoe line (which looks like it could be very soon), I can get a PA and have them do it!

Anyway, if you have been looking for something different to put on your feet, the winkers are a great direction, as they are fun, comfortable and unique!

Enjoy your weekend,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Today's Favorites - Carreducker

I just realized that a plain toed shoe, whether it be a wholecut, a saddle shoe, or a model like this with just a facing, is by far my favorite type of shoe, so long that it has a nice shape. Something about the plain canvas of the vamp and toe area, just draws me in and screams elegance. So when I first saw this new bespoke model, a collaboration between Gieves & Hawkes and Carreducker, I was absolutely stunned! Being made of my favorite color, blue, and having the lizard skin facing (a skin that I am normally not fond of), it was pairing that went well together and gave me a new appreciation of the mixture of blue and black. Normally I stay away from pairing these two colors too much, as I believe that a dark blue can be too close to black and therefore offers no contrast, but the blue in this shoe was just light enough, to allow that facing to truly stand out. And because of that, I am in absolute envy of these shoes, and am trying to figure out how I am going to get a pair without having to spend thousands of pounds.....what a dilemma! 

Shoes Of The Week - Carreducker One Off's

 

There is a leather factory in Northampton, called Crack's (for short), which is considered the haven for acquiring leather in this country. And apparently, as you can see by the leather at hand, sometimes you can find some unique and interesting stuff. Now for some of you, this might not matter, but unfortunately this hide here, was extremely limited and just happened to get entirely purchased by Deborah Carre, who made these chelsea boots for herself. And when I saw it for the first time, I was thoroughly impressed, as it looked somewhat exotic, yet it wasn't, which I prefer, but also had this sequin looking print on it. I thought, I want a pair too! But being a snob, I could not justify making the same pair that someone else I know owns, and potentially wearing it on the same day as them. That would be a no-no. So....I managed to get a skin for myself, wheeling and dealing with Deborah, and decided that after I make my shoes, from my own design, that I would make this leather in a whole cut, as I think that it looks lovely when it is stitching-free. But as sad as it is, I am still chelsea boot free, and have been desperately wanting one, as I think that they make a fantastic jean shoe! 

Enjoy the weekend,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Carreducker Interview

As many of you may already know, I am located at Gieves & Hawkes, just a spitting distance away from the new home of bespoke shoemakers James Ducker and Deborah Carre, whom make up the duo known as Carreducker. Them being such an easy target and good friends of mine, I figured that with the launch of the new store layout (which includes the Carreducker's, myself and many other interesting things) at Gieves and Hawkes on Savile Row, it would be a good time to give them the interview spotlight in order to tell us how their transition has been going!

As they have been readers of my blog, for quite some time now, it was an honor to have finally met them (when I came to England) and to have found out that I would be working so close to them. As an aspiring shoemaker myself, you can imagine how opportunistic it is for me to be near them. All of the answers to my questions are just 20 feet away (6 meters). That being, here is their interview, which I had presented to them to be answered individually. Enjoy!

1. How long have you been involved in shoemaking/shoe design?

Deborah Carre: I've always had a passion for design and studied design at university - I have a BA Hons in fashion design and marketing and worked with RE Trickers to produce my final collection; whilst working I did part-time pattern cutting, fashion illustration and handsewn shoemaking courses; before then taking up a four year apprenticeship in handsewn shoemaking.

James Ducker:  I STARTED IN 1992 IN BARCELONA DOING EVENING CLASSES AND CONTINUED MAKING IN MY SPARE TIME. I RETURNED TO LONDON IN 1998 TO START AN APPRENTICESHIP WITH JOHN LOBB LTD.


2. What was it that made you decide that you wanted to get into shoemaking/shoe design?

DC: Accessories interest me because of the constraints of scale and proportion...plus I have always loved men's shoes.  When I was deciding what to do for my final collection at college I identified a gap in the market for a combination of craft and design. I approached RE Trickers to sponsor my collection of unisex box calf, handsewn boots. I was fortunate enough to work closely with their head of production and bespoke maker. I was attracted to the combination of working with my head and hands - problem solving - and enjoyed the experience so much that when I left college, I continued to study part time and then won a QEST scholarship to do an apprenticeship.

JD: SERENDIPITY REALLY. I HAPPENED UPON THE CLASSES AND FELL IN LOVE WITH IT

3. Most English shoemakers are very conservative in their look (shoe design) yet you tend to be a bit more creative and unique in your styling. Why break the traditional English mold?

DC: I can't help it - I have Sark and American blood in me!  No seriously that is why James and I are such a good design team, he tempers my extravagances and I push him outside his comfort zone. English people are renown for their eccentricity - and James and I don't go crazy, we just like good style and design.

JD: A NUMBER OF REASONS REALLY. IT IS OUR NATURAL AESTHETIC TO DESIGN THE WAY WE DO. YOU HAVE TO BE TRUE TO YOUR SELF AS A DESIGNER AND THEN HOPE THAT CUSTOMERS LIKE YOUR STYLE AND BUY INTO IT. IT SETS US APART FROM OUR COMPETITORS. BEING JUST LIKE THEM WOULD NOT HELP US. IT BRINGS THE CRAFT INTO THE 21ST CENTURY BY MARRYING ANCIENT CRAFT SKILLS WITH A MODERN DESIGN ETHOS
 
4. What is your favorite color? Favorite color on a shoe?

DC: My favourite colour is french navy...and my favourite colour in a shoe...well I am going through a blue phase at the moment so it would have to be pale blue nubuck for a summer derby.

JD:  I LOVE COLOUR IN GENERAL, BUT I LIKE IT USED SPARINGLY IN ALONGSIDE MORE NEUTRAL TONES. IT'S COMBINATIONS OF COLOURS THAT I REALLY LIKE. THIS IS TRUE FOR SHOES AS WELL. NAVY BLUE IS MY CURRENT FAVOURITE BUT THAT COULD CHANGE!

5. What is your favorite model out of Carreducker's collection?

DC: I love the boots we did for Guy Hills in his own The Dashing Dashing Tweeds and claret lizard skin. It was one of the first fabric/leather combinations we did. I LOVE boots and the mix of fabric and leather is playful but stylish.

JD: MEN'S SHOE IS PROBABLY THE SADDLE BOOT AND LADIES IS THE DIETRICH

 6. You recently moved into Gieves & Hawkes, how has the transition help/affected Carreducker's business?

DC: On a positive note we are very privileged to be one of Gieves & Hawkes partners and turning the corner at 1 Savile Row never fails to put a smile on my face. And it all came about through a sequence of serendipitous meetings...one of those moments of everything coming together in a positive way.  It has offered us unprecedented access to bespoke enthusiasts; an unbeatable address; and exposure to customers who would not know of us otherwise. The only negative is that we are incredibly distracted and the speed of our making at Gieves suffers; and we have to be much better organised about our workload/tools etc. (which is actually a very good thing)

JD: ITS BEEN FANTASTIC. ORDERS HAVE INCREASED AND WE ARE SEEING THE RIGHT CLIENTS AND THEY ARE SEEING OUR SHOES. ITS THE PERFECT MARRIAGE REALLY, BESPOKE SUITS AND SHOES UNDER ONE ROOF!

7. What is the hardest thing about being a bespoke shoemaker? Subsequently, what is the most rewarding?


DC: You have to be fit and to stay physically fit - I hurt both elbows pulling a student's lasts in January and still have very painful tendinitis; when it goes wrong  there is no make do and mend. If the seam rips when you are taking the lasts out of a pair of customer shoes you have to start all over again - so we never tell a customer their shoes are ready until we have pulled the lasts. The rewards are simple - the satisfaction of finishing a pair of shoes well and seeing a customer (particularly one with discomfort) walk away happy in a pair of shoes we have made.

JD: THE HARDEST THING IS MAKING NO MONEY FOR YEARS AND YEARS. MY ADVICE TO THOSE WHO ASK IS DO IT FOR THE PASSION OF SHOEMAKING, BECAUSE YOU LOVE IT. THE MOST REWARDING THING IS THE CRAFT ITSELF, MAKING SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL AND EMINENTLY PRACTICAL.

8.You offer a course where you teach people how to make a pair of shoes, how many people (that you know of) have gone on the continue the trade?

DC: At least nine students have continued making; one is doing an apprenticeship, two have set up their own workshops; five more are still making for friends and family; and one is making for a hobby.

JD: WE HAVE AT LEAST 5 WHO ARE MAKING A SERIOUS GO OF IT AND 1 OTHER WHO HAS SET UP A WORKSHOP FOR HIS OWN PLEASURE.

9. What do you hope to see unfold in the shoe industry within the next 10 years?

DC: A greater understanding of handsewn and the difference between handsewn and hand made; a greater appreciation for true craft; a move away from manufacturing in China and a return to English-made shoes.

JD: THE GROWTH OF BESPOKE SHOES, AS PEOPLE SEE THE BENEFIT OF MEETING THE PERSON WHO IS GOING TO MAKE THEIR SHOES; OF KNOWING THE PROVENANCE OF THE LEATHERS ETC; OF BEING INVOLVED IN THE DESIGN; AND OF WEARING WONDERFUL SHOES THAT FIT THEM PROPERLY. IN GENERAL A MOVE TO QUALITY OVER QUANTITY IN MANUFACTURED SHOES. 1 DECENT PAIR INSTEAD OF 3 RUBBISH ONES.  

10. And advice for aspiring shoemakers/shoe designers?

  
DC: Only do it if you love it 

JD: BE PASSIONATE AND TENACIOUS. IT CAN BE DONE - JUST LOOK AT DEBORAH AND I 

Well, thank you to the two of you, it's a pleasure as always. I hope that all of you enjoyed the interview. Posted below are a few pics of some of their new styles that they have done in collaboration with Gieves & Hawkes. 

Until next time,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

 

 

Shoes Of The Week - World Premiere

 

Brought to you first by The Shoe Snob are these incredible new bespoke offerings in a collaboration between Carreducker and Gieves & Hawkes. As part of the Carreducker's move into the G&H shop on Savile Row, was a five shoe collaboration agreement between the two companies as a way to offer something that fit the feel of G&H but gave the bespoke uniqueness and creativity that the Carreducker duo display so often in the styles that they create. This is one of those 5 and so far, my favorite!

What I love about these boots (obviously besides the color) is the fact that such a simple idea, the middle seam, created something refreshingly different. Even though I love a nice, plain chelsea boot, they are hard to make different from each other. That being, a simple middle seam separates these boots from many of the others that you will find elsewhere. What else is great is the color swatch that they have available for their clients to choose from. Not only do they have a suede swatch with about 20 different colors but there is also a nubuck swatch, as well, that has another 20 different shades. So the options are endless....

P.S. While the boots look purple in some pictures, they are definitely not. They are some shade of blue that is quite unique but has purple tones to it. The second to last picture, below, gives the best example of the true color.

Today's Favorites - Black Shoes

Two Above: Gaziano & Girling

Two Above: Corthay (Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot)

Boot Above: Carreducker

Shoe Above: Dimitri Bottier

Today, one of my readers told me that he was under the impression that I was anti black shoes and disagreed with me on that regard. While I assured him that it was not the case, I understood why he may have been under that impression due to my recent writing as well as some in the past. So for the rest of you who may have believed the same, let me set the record straight.

I believe that a black dress shoe in an essential piece in every man's wardrobe. What I do not agree with is the heavy emphasis that many people (and societal thought) put on owning black shoes and their necessity for business attire. A black shoe is not the end-all-be-all shoe. It's not the most versatile shoe and it's not the most important in a man's wardrobe. These opinions (which some people claim as fact) are what I have trouble with. I love a black shoe, if it can set itself apart from the rest. But your average black cap or apron toe that every business man in the States, England and quite possibly any other metropolitan area in the world, is just plain boring and inconsequential.

So to back up my point of liking black shoes, I have displayed some here that I find quite appealing. I hope this helps clear up any confusion.