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Monday, 10 October 2011

The Agelessness of the Black Dress Shoe


Shoes are a funny thing......like most things, especially in clothing, fashion, style or whatever you want to call it, they change. There are always fads, trends, styles that are the next big thing and then one season later, they are nowhere to be found, dead, lost in a sea of rubbish that is manipulated year after year by people who claim to be style or marketing experts and tell us what is 'in' or 'cool'. But are they really??? Some are yes, but many aren't. And I guess this is the reason that they fade out and disappear, never to be thought of again until they come back 30 years later in the recycling of fashion due to the change of the times and minds of the youth. But there are articles of clothing that seem to stand the test of time, and year after year without fail, be purchased as if they were the next big thing, yet in reality are older than dirt, only to be changed by shape. In shoes, that article is the black cap-toe.


Yet why is the black cap-toe so timeless? Sure, there are many obvious reasons (at least one would think), but when you really think about these reasons, I don't feel that they present a factual argument, but rather a subjective one that somehow became integrated into the minds of men, forever to be seen as truth. One example would be, that black goes with everything. Now I don't believe this statement for one second. Black, albeit an easy color to work with, does not, in fact, go with everything. You might think it does, and therefore put it with everything, but it in many cases actually dulls down a lot of outfits. But I guess that when you think about it, it's the lesser of the evils. What I mean by that is when you pair black, with say brown, and it does not look right, it's far less obvious and ostentatious then getting the match between lime green and brown wrong. That lime green is going to stand out like a sore thumb and make people stare at you. But if you were to wear a brown suit and have black shoes on, it would not be so noticeable, even though I would dare to say that it would be a very clashing thing to look at. But because of the fact that is is not as noticeable, it becomes 'safe.'


Another interesting thing about black, is that it takes the best shine. This is strange to me, because it's the color with the least amount of depth to it. Brown, for example, has like 9 million different shades, yet black only has one. But now that I think about it, that seems to be the actual reason that when you shine a black shoe, to a mirror like standard, it's contrast to the leather around is far more noticeable than on any other color, because of it's lack of depth. There is just black. So therefore, you get black and then patent-like black and difference presents such a strong contrast to each other. But because of that, it also (at least in my mind) looks the best when shined. And I believe that this is why it's the best color for formal occasions, and precisely why patent is generally regarded as the most formal material: because of that shine.

And while I could probably go on and on about why I might hate or love black shoes, I cannot deny the fact that they will simply never be a fad, trend, blip on the scale of styles but rather maintain their position as the shoe at the top of the food chain, forever sought after by businessmen, bartenders, church men, common men, young men, old men, pretty much EVERY MAN, simply because it's fail proof!

Shoe By: Saion



Sunday, 9 October 2011

Shoes Of The Week - Berluti's Blue Beauties


I have always had this love/hate relationship with Berluti. I have always loved them for their stylistic nature. I must say that the designers, for me, have always hit the nail on the head and made some of the most elegant shoes that I have ever seen. I have always hated them for their price vs. cost vs. quality factor and how I believe that their mark up is way beyond reason, which will also mean that I will most likely never be able to afford one, or at least won't need (nor want) to get one when I can afford it. But I simply cannot deny their beauty and must admire them for their boldness in coming out with pieces that are unique, colorful and at the same time maintain a manner of elegance.

So when a client came to me with a pair of these to shine, I immediately fell in love with them. I mean, they already had a couple notches in my book, simply for the fact that they were blue (being my favorite color and all) but also due to their uniquely intriguing design. Essentially, it's a whole cut loafer. But they managed to sew on the penny strap (directly on top) and weave through the leather to make the apron as a boat shoe would with it's side laces. While I am sure that this is not the only shoe to have had this done, I can say that I have not seen it before, or at least did not take notice if I did. Nevertheless, among the sea of black shoes that I regularly get, I always love something like this that takes the monotony out of the job....











Friday, 7 October 2011

What I Am Wearing


Sorry for all of the mean looking faces, but like a reader commented before, it's quite challenging to make a smile when you are taking a photo of yourself. I don't really why, but I find myself unable to smile when I am taking these photos. Even when I try, it just comes out like a forced smirk, but never a genuine smile. Anyway, I am wrapping up the rest of my waistcoat outfits, as the weather is quickly turning quite cold and windy. Now you will start to notice that my v-neck sweaters (jumpers) will be my staple piece, as I love layering. The tie that I am wearing in this picture is definitely one of my favorites, as it is just so bold and intricate. It's not one for everyone so I understand if some of you may not agree, but it is definitely one of those ties that commands attention. And while the paisley era is over, I still like to bring it out every now and then!

Shoes: Salvatore Ferragamo -- Tramezza line
Tie: Robert Talbott -- Best of Class series
Trousers: H&M
Waistcoat: J.Crew
Shirt: Primark





Wednesday, 5 October 2011

Today's Favorites - Red Suede Edward Greens


It's not very often that you see red suede shoes, particularly coming from a company rooted in England. It's even far less common that you would see someone wearing these down the street. Yet that would be very cool. Apparently these were an MTO order, for a customer at Leffot (of which the pictures are courtesy of). When you think about it this way, there existence under the name Edward Green makes more sense, as I don't believe that they would ever produce something for their ready-to-wear lines. But then this brings up the age old question: with all of the beautiful shoes being sold each day in the world, why is it that I never see anyone wearing them? Do people only keep their cool shoes for special events? For parties? What? I just don't get it. It's not like I wear my red shoes with white piping everyday, but they definitely get a some wears throughout the year. But rarely do I see something exciting, such as these, gracing the feet of some well-dressed gentleman. It's never too late.....wear your exciting shoes proudly!


Tuesday, 4 October 2011

Carreducker Trunk Shows & Saint Crispin Event

Photo Courtesy Of: Adrian Lourie (London)


I thought that this little bit of information might interest some of you.....

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

TRUNK SHOW
 
Carreducker is off to the US next week for its first joint Gieves & Hawkes / carréducker bespoke Trunk Show to the USA. 

14 & 15 October at The Intercontinental Chicago
17, 18 & 19 October at The Plaza, New York

Alongside the company's more adventurous samples, they are showcasing the Mayfair collection - the ultimate black bespoke shoes - a pared-back Oxford, Wholecut, Derby and Loafer - as well as offering rubber soles as an option for bespoke customers (not just popular, but essential on America’s east coast).  Having bespoke shoemaking and tailoring together is convenient and an ideal opportunity for customers to go for a full top-to-toe bespoke wardrobe. Customers can make an appointment with carreducker by email at cd@carreducker.com and with Head Cutter Kathryn Sargent at sargentk@gievesandhawkes.com


ST CRISPIN'S DAY 

As you know, October is a very special month in the shoemaking calendar as we celebrate the patron saint of shoemakers Saints Crispin and Hugh on 25 October. Both men were disinherited by their wealthy families and became shoemakers before being finally put to death: St Crispin in France in 288 A.D. and St. Hugh in England. St Hugh’s name lives on as the nickname for a shoemaker’s tools - Sir Hugh’s Bones. 

The day is normally one of revelry and holiday but we shall instead be showing off our skills throughout the week in the Gieves & Hawkes flagship store window on Vigo street. Please come by to wave at us and to say ‘hi’ at 10.30am, 12.30pm and 3pm.















Monday, 3 October 2011

The Fashionable Hiking Boot

Merrell x Collette Collaboration (Picture from Shoe Buff)

I saw a surge of this type of boot in last year's Autumn/Winter seasons but I have a feeling that this surge is going to be an explosion this upcoming A/W season. I can't say that I am a huge fan of hiking boots altogether, as they tend to be a bit on the chunky side, and like I have said before, having a relatively slim frame and wearing pretty slim trousers just doesn't look that great with chunky shoes. I know that some trendy people appreciate that look, but I am definitely not one of them. But I do like this boot and it therefore leaves me in a conundrum. But then again, one can always appreciate something without ever having to own it or want it. I am not really that person either though. I usually like to have, immediately, what I like. Kind of like a spoiled kid, you know....just having a laugh, I am not really that bad. But I kind of am...

























Like the whole-cut dress shoe, I love the fact that there is not really any visible stitching. It just has a very clean look to it that makes it less 'hiking' and more 'smart-like'. The style of the boots you see above, by Japanese bespoke shoemaker Imai Hiroki, is probably my favorite of the whole lot. You can see here, that he blended his dress shoe making abilities with this model, as it is much cleaner looking, sleeker and more elegant than the rest. In my mind, it would be the equivalent of a dress hiking boot, having the ability to be paired with some elegant flannel trousers or something on the dress-casual end. This model, on the other hand, would look good with some slim trousers, so long as they were not skin-tight. But I can imagine that the price tag that comes along with a pair of these, might leave even the most affluent, dented in his wallet. Therefore, I would have to settle for the top pair, which would only be good for my jeans on wet and cold days.

Picture Courtesy Of: The Shoe Buff;  Boots by: Lanvin

As you can see here, many brands from across the spectrum of shoe companies are producing these shoes. From designer labels to Japanese bespoke shoemakers to hiking companies and trendy stores, this model is spreading and seems to be the next big thing for the upcoming years. And why not? It's a good looking boot. One that can be blended from wearing in the snow to night out on the town, something that you normally cannot do. Most boots are restricted to casual wear (non-dress boots that is). Yet this model depending on how it is made, can go either way and I think that it's ability to do so, is quite smart and appealing. On topic with what the latest trend is, it is always interesting to see what will be the next 'it' style, shoe, detail etc. within the shoe industry. Some I like, some I hate. But I can safely say, that when this boot is done right, it is quite a beautiful product and something that can definitely serve it's purpose, especially if you live in a climate that calls for it.

Boots Below By: Calzaturificio Walles; Picture Courtesy Of: The Style Buff



Saturday, 1 October 2011

Shoes Of The Week - Bontoni Whole Cuts


Even though I can be pretty ostentatious and like shoes that are crazy colors and uniquely designed, I still admire more than anything a shoe that defies all matter of out-of-the-box creativity and sticks to the basics, such as this elegant whole cut by Bontoni. And even more so, I love a whole cut that has brogueing on it. The brogueing somehow adds to the beauty of the shoe, not quite taking away from the fact that it is an actual whole cut, but providing that little bit of extra pizazz to not make it so plain and possibly boring. Then to top if all off, the leather of this shoe, which has clearly been given a beautiful patina, adds just that much more to the overall elegance and desirability of the shoe, creating something that in my mind will go down as one of the nicest shoes that I have ever seen. A bold statement definitely, but a true one....

Picture Compliments Of: The Style Buff