Shoes Of The Week - Bespoke by D.W. Frommer II

Hand-sewn shoemaking may not be as prevalent in the public eye as it was 60-80 years ago (when shoemaking machinery was not as readily available), but the more time I spend in the shoe industry, the more I discover that it is still very much alive, only that it is on a much more private (and/or smaller) scale. And every time I hear of someone trying to find a course or apprenticeship in order to go learn, or someone that has simply taught themselves out of pure passion, I find myself smiling, knowing that people still care about quality shoes. And that, my friends, brings me to the subject at hand. While I have known about Mr. D.W. Frommer II for some time now (perusing the pages of Style Forum), it wasn't until I saw these pictures that I understood the magnitude of his making abilities. Having been a western boot maker for 40+ years (and being 66 years old), it was only until 5 years ago that he translated his knowledge in bootmaking and took a stab at shoemaking, in order to have something to enjoy during retirement. After 5 years (which is not long in this profession) you can see just far along he has come, especially with this beautiful balmoral oxford! For more information on Mr. D.W. Frommer II, you can email him or visit his website.

Email: frommer@bootmaker.com

Website: http://www.bootmaker.com/bespoke.htm

 

Riccardo Bestetti Ready To Wear Collection

It's been a long time coming, but the day has finally arrived: Bestetti introduces his Ready-To-Wear collection at none other than the infamous Pitti Uomo. These pictures are obviously not from there, but are a few models to wet your beaks nonetheless and see what he is up to and what you can expect from his line. As you can see he very much keeps in tune with his bespoke footwear, offering models that have the mouth-quenching curves and lines that give resemblance to a handmade shoe. I assume (but am not sure) that he used lasts that were either identical (or very darn close) to his bespoke footwear. The only difference is that these beauties are going to be made with a Blake construction. But fret not, the Goodyear welted counterparts will be arriving in the near future... While I still believe these are in the production stages, having not quite yet been finalized nor sold to any stores, they will be coming out in the price range of around 400 Euros. While still not cheap (as they shouldn't be), it now allows some of you dreamers (such as myself) to be able to finally get a piece of footwear that has been made/designed/influenced by none other than Mr. Bestetti himself... Will update when I receive more information...Enjoy!

 

Today's Favorites - John Lobb Saddle Shoes

I never tire of seeing how many different ways a saddle shoe can be executed, especially when the color combinations are quite bold and unusual, such as this model by John Lobb. Buts what's funny about it is that I plucked this from a French website (Souliers), thinking that it was some bespoke (or at least MTO) model, as the title of the photo had the word 'customisee,'  (apparently I am much worse at French than I thought) but then noticed the big, fat circled "R" on the inside which usually indicates a reject model. If these are both the case, it's such a shame...I wonder what the customer did not like about them? Nevertheless, I find them stunning and would gladly take them off John Lobb's hands......(it's nice to dream about being rich). In particular, what I find most appealing and unique is the perforations on the saddle. To me, they are simply and effortlessly amazing! Something that is so small in design yet so big in separating itself from the others....that's what good design is all about....!

First it was colors....Now it will be boots!

For those of you that have been long time readers of the blog, you will know that I have been a big advocate of seeing more abnormal coloring in footwear. Back when I started this blog (in Feb. 2010), I made some predictions indicating that within a year or two, colored shoes (outside of brown and black) were going to be a lot more prevalent in the industry. 2011 marked a big push for that actually coming true. More and more brands were coming out with shoes that did not really fit their overall historical image (at least not in my opinion), such as the shoes made by Edward Green for Hardy Amies (shown above & below). Two quintessential English brands, rooted in the idea of what it means to be a British gentleman, came out with a collaboration that not only blew my mind aesthetically, but also in the sense that for me, it was almost like stepping a bit outside of their boundary to create something a bit more fun and eclectic. And that was the beauty about it....brands that were evolving with the times, creating something that might be a bit out of their norm but beautiful and timeless nonetheless!

Picture Below: Edward Green for Hardy Amies (courtesy of The Shoe Buff)

And while that trend (colors) has come, and will hopefully be here to stay, the next big thing that I think will populate the shelves throughout the year (and next) will be dress boots. There used to be a time --think Victorian/Edwardian eras-- where boots, such as a nice balmoral boot, were the norm and no one wore low cut shoes, as we do now. Granted, I know that this happened to be the case for more of a practical purpose rather than personal choice (due to the streets being solely dirt and therefore lacking pavement). But even though that was the case, I found this look to be quite a bit more intriguing....and elegant. Who is to say that a dress boot can't be just as elegant as a low cut shoe when paired with a suit? I quite enjoy wearing my Gaziano & Girling 'Wigmore' with either a flannel suit or my three-piece, and would even pair other one's (if I had any) so long as the boot was an elegant shape that compliments dress attire. And I could be wrong, but I think more and more people are starting to think like this...

Boots by Corthay

Boots by George Cleverley, Picture Courtesy of: Leather Soul

Everything in the footwear and clothing industry seems to always reinvent itself in some form or another, whether it be toe shapes, colors used, type of style like brogues, boots etc and in my time I have not seen as much enthusiasm for dress boots as I do now. But I don't feel that we are quite at the peak of it all. Soon, if not F/W 2012 or 2013, you will see far more boots offered in collections, more color combinations presented, and if everything goes according to my plan, more materials other than leather being used. And the hope, for me, is that more of you will jump on board and desire these boots. Because, it's time for a nice change, a time to see more elegant boots presented and people wearing them proudly! And even if you go from a boring black cap-toe oxford shoe, to a boring black cap-toe oxford boot, it will be a step in the right direction!

Boots by: Riccardo Bestetti

Wholecut Mid-Top boots by: Imai Hiroki

Shoes Of The Week - Saddle Monks by Saint Crispins

These are hands-down among the nicest shoes that I have truly ever seen in my entire life, and I mean it! Even though Saint Crispins shoes are incredibly expensive for RTW/MTO standards (please read comment below to understand why), I have to say, that from the looks of things, they are worth every last penny. Not only do the leathers look superb, but the pattern-making and minute detailing are without a doubt, top-notch! I really can't help it but there is not one bad thing that I can say about this shoe, except that I am truly and utterly envious of the person who owns them! The apron stitch is perfect and this is one thing that really ruins a shoe for me. If the apron stitch is not spot-on, then the shoe is ruined, which is reason why I don't particularly like apron toed shoes. The fact that they added a saddle on a double monk just makes them go up 100 points in my book as many of you know that I am a saddle freak! And to top it off, the coloring of the leather is phenomenal. It may not be to everyone's liking, but you can't deny that the patina applied was nothing short of amazing, as getting an olive green like this, is very hard to do....Anyway, enough of my praising, I think that the shoes speak for themselves. My hat is tipped to the owner of these lovely beauties!

Picture Courtesy Of: Rugged Old Salt

Today's Favorites - Alden Blue Suede Tassel Loafers

Sometimes I almost wish that I did not have a favorite color, because that way I would be a little less aggressive in gravitating towards the same things, and therefore have a wardrobe that is a little bit more varied. But I do have a favorite color and as you can probably gather from the statement prior and the picture above, it is blue. And because I love blue so much and wished that it was used on the feet of more men on the planet, you can understand why I am always talking about blue shoes and putting them on the blog, such as these lovely beauties by Alden. And while I love a blue calf leather, I think that I almost prefer shoes in a blue suede. Something about the suede just seems to give the color a bit more depth, a bit more of a rich feel to it, which is why I feel that the blue goes better with jeans and blue calf leather doesn't.... Whatever the case, the fact remains, I love blue and blue shoes and for all of you that share the same sentiment....be ready for a few new executions in the idea of blue shoes....

Picture Courtesy Of: Tassels

Another Go At A Personal Patina

A little while ago, I had found myself at pub after work, as is a very common thing to do here in England. While I had a good time and can't complain, I noticed that the next morning, it appeared that I had spilled a bit of alcoholic substance on my shoe and it had unfortunately left a lovely stain for me. Now this pair, the 'Dryden' by Allen Edmonds, is my oldest dress shoe, the first one I ever purchased with my own money. So, needless to say I was quite upset because I love the original color of them and did not want to ever change that. But I could not live with having that stain always there yet knew that at least they were not ruined completely, considering the fact that I am now not afraid to dye my shoes with the possibility of consequence.












I had just dyed a pair of my loafers brown (and therefore did not want to do it again), and pretty much have everything else in an oxford with the exception of an all black shoe, so I decided that black would be the ticket. But I wanted to have them slightly unique looking. I thought it would be cool if I could dye the toe blue (some sort of royal or around that shade) and try to fade it to black at the defined cap brogue line. As you can see, I started with the blue on the cap (which ended up being a lot darker than anticipated) and then started using the black for the rest of the shoe, of which I idiotically forgot to take pictures of. It ended up being quite a pain because the black dye that I was using was awful and did not seep into the leather almost whatsoever.  I therefore, built up as much as I could with the black to create a base and then went over the black area with the blue dye (of which was slightly higher quality, getting 'into' the leather). Because of that, I almost ended up with a uniform black shoe. It looked a bit dull so I thought that if I stripped off the toe a bit with some spirit (alcohol), then it would give it some more character. Needless to say, it did so, but not in the way that I was hoping for. It almost became a more aqua blue than any shade of royal.

While I am not disappointed with the turnout, I do wish that I did not spill any beer on my shoe..... :-(