Saturday, 17 September 2011
Shoe Of The Week - Maftei
As the world progresses, it becomes harder and harder to say that one thing, whether it be a product or service, is best found here or there. This used to be the case many years ago, but as people become more and more curious about the arts and crafts that were once famous in a certain area, they begin to take it upon themselves to become just as good. Some even go as far as becoming better. So, for me it's very nice to discover shoemakers that come from areas that one not might suspect would be a place that offers bespoke shoes at a high caliber. While this might still be the case in some countries, it is definitely not in Austria, as this shoe by Maftei looks just as good as any prominent maker in the industry. Not only does the shoe look good in a construction aspect, but the style is among my current favorites, pairing two colors that I love together and doing it in a very unique and beautiful way. Have a look through his site and maybe you too will find something that strikes your fancy and presents itself as unique and individual.
Labels:
balmorals,
Bespoke Shoes,
Brogues,
maftei,
oxfords,
romanian shoemakers,
Two Toned Shoes
Thursday, 15 September 2011
Reader's Shoe Collection
There is a forum in France (similar in vain to SF in the States) called En Grande Pompe that holds a array of gentleman who just may love shoes as much as I do. Many of these gentleman read The Shoe Snob and several have been over to Gieves & Hawkes to meet me in person, which I found very flattering. Just recently one came over and introduced himself as an advocate of the blog and letting me know that many were awaiting my shoe line launch. While this was very very flattering it also made me a bit nervous, as the pressure is on, for me to back up everything that I have been talking about in my blog, up until now. Nevertheless, it was nice to meet him, as it always is for me to meet my blog's readers.
On another note, the gentleman decided to send me a pictureof his shoe collection. This picture fills me with extreme envy, as it represents what I would love to have. While I might already be close, I know that the caliber of shoes that his collection represents is far higher than mine, as I am still building up the big names. Well, I thought that all of you might enjoy this, or envy it.....
Wednesday, 14 September 2011
What I Am Wearing
I am really beginning to feel that when they advertise how many mega pixels are on a camera (when you buy it), I don't think that the number is accurate. These pictures (obviously taken through a mirror) seem to come out so bad, yet I have seen other bloggers do the same thing, with their iphone and the pictures come out tremendously better. Maybe I am the culprit, dysfunctional when it comes to taking photographs. Looks like I might have to take a crash course, and painfully upgrade what I thought was a decent 14 mega pixel camera?? Whatever the case, let me explain my outfit. The weather is beginning to chill down, here in London, as the summer comes to a sad end and yesterday it was feeling a bit chilly. That being, I decided to wear my flannel DB suit paired with my suede chukka boots. For me, it turned out to be a very nice match, as there is a light pinstripe in the suit, which complimented the shoes. Even though my work does not call for really dressing up, I always appreciate wearing a nice suit as it makes me feel better and more professional!
Shoes: Stefano Bemer
DB Suit: Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Faconnable
Labels:
Brown Suede Shoes,
chukka boots,
Double Breasted Suits,
Peak Lapels,
Stefano Bemer,
Suede Boots
Tuesday, 13 September 2011
Laszlo Vass: A Private Collection
Laszlo Vass shoes are truly beautiful. And coming from me, who is not the biggest fan of protruding welts and thick soles (at least not on slim dress shoes), it means a lot. He has managed to somehow create a shoe that is dressy, but has a pretty substantial sole on it, yet still be incredibly elegant. This is not easy to do. Maybe that is why, for such a small Hungarian shoemaker, he has quite a large following. This picture, for example, comes from the Style Forum, of which there is a thread that is dedicated to Laszlo Vass shoes and is call 'The Ultimate Vass Porn Thread.' This impressive collection comes from one of SF's leading wardrobe owner, meaning that he is famed for having a ridiculous amount of clothing and shoes. It's tough, I know. I can only read so much of this thread (and others like it) before I fill up with envy, especially when i see pictures like this, where someone takes a picture of his 5 brand new shoes that must have just arrived. Seriously....I would love to be able to order 5 shoes at a time, wouldn't you??? Well, I must say that the wholecut and u-cap models (both second from left and right) have stolen my heart. They are magnificent, beautiful, elegant and worst of all....not mine!
Labels:
brogue boots,
Brogues,
dress shoes,
Laszlo Vass,
U-cap shoes,
Whole Cut Shoes
Monday, 12 September 2011
Western Boot Factory
First and foremost, please excuse how horrible I look in this picture. It was like 500 degrees outside --as I was in the middle of the desert-- and my hair was not feeling it. I had also gained a couple of kilo's from how incredibly well the Spanish eat, like kings....hence my belly looking like a bloated lump. On another note, most of you know that I was away, in Spain, turning my designs into technical drawings (aka patterns) so that they could be made up into my first round of prototypes to my shoe line. While this little world is very much hush-hush in the way of doing business, I am not really able to speak about exactly where I went, but can tell you that the city I was in, was a town known for it's factories, particularly in shoes. During my 3 days there things were going quick -- giving me spare time to kill -- so as everyone knows everyone, I was able to go see other factories that I could share with all of you, such as this western boot one.
(PS - The pictures for some reason are giving me a hard time, so please excuse the messy look of them)
Boxes of shoes to be Shipped |
To see the depth of the factory |
Outside View of Back of Factory |
Half of the shipment in one day |
Just one of the walls of leather |
While it's hard to get an exact feel for just how big the factory was, you can see in the pictures that it was quite large. They did it all here. The only thing that I believe was outsourced, of course, was the leather. But as this was a factory town, everything was either done here, or just around the corner and in conjunction. It was quite surreal. I mean, I never thought of western boots being so big. I always assumed that there were a few cowboys in the South of the States and people in Mexico who wore them, but to my ignorance, apparently many people in Europe do to, as some of the boots that were being made up while I was there, were being sent to Holland. Go figure....
Endless Heels |
And more leather |
Several thousand pounds worth of Croc |
Several of the many racks of lasts |
Spools of colored thread |
Blue snakeskin -- interesting |
Welts |
Random machine |
As you can see, it's quite different to my post about small, intimate shoe factories, such as G&G's factory. Everything was in large scale. Lasts were endless, leather was everywhere and there were a million machines, of which the majority of them I had no clue of what they did, such as the one directly above, left. But nonetheless, it all seemed to flow very fluidly. Shoes were placed on racks (as you will notice in pictures below) and passed around the factory, from machine to machine, and section to section. One of the most amazing parts of the factory though, were the machines that put on the intricate stitching (embroidery) that you find on the upper leather bits of cowboy boots. It was simply amazing to watch the machine mimic a cut out pattern which would then create the intricate design that you find on the boots. One machine (in a picture below left) would do the same embroidery on 8 pieces of leather at a time. And another cool machine was the automatic leather cutting machine that was able to cut leather through a computerized system which allowed it to minimize the waste of leather.
While one might think that cowboy boots might be so different than dress shoes, in reality the factory (and therefore the way of construction) was very much similar to the likes of the Santoni factory, which I visited a few years back. And even though I am not really a big fan of cowboy boots, in the sense that I would never wear them, I really do appreciate the work, detailing and intricacy of their nature. It is rare to see a boring cowboy boot. While the classic cowboys may have worn them in either plain black or plain tan brown cow skin, you will find that these days they are made up of all types of color, embroidered patterns, and animal hides. My favorite out of all of them are the blue pair that I have put directly below, left.
Well, I hope that you have all enjoyed this post. It is quite a surreal thing being in a factory that supplies a major stake of a certain shoe in the industry, such as cowboy boots. As a little tidbit, I will leave you with the only thing that I can share with you, which are my lasts that I am going to be using for several of my shoes for my first collection. (bare in mind, the pointy one is similar to the shoes that I have already made, the ones on the left of the blog)
-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"
Sunday, 11 September 2011
Medallions
I'M BACK!!!! Well, for those of you that read my blog religiously, I just wanted to say sorry that you had to go 4 days without a new post. It even felt long for me, as I was almost going through lack-of-writing withdrawals. But alas, I am back in full effect and have some interesting things to share with all of you. While I can't talk much about where exactly I went (as in the name of the factory) I can tell you that I was in Spain. However, I will dwell more on this subject in my long post tomorrow but for now just share with you my experience while I was on the plane.
As the procrastinator that I have always been, I found myself on the plane over to Spain (to turn my designs into actual products) without a toe medallion that I was really satisfied with. I had designed two, but they were not really something to be 'wowed' over, so I decided to design three more. Let me tell you, designing them is not easy. Not only do you want to make one that looks unique against all of the 5 million others out there, but more importantly one that simply looks good and fits the toe area.
It turned out that the phrase '3rd time's a charm' really came to life in my crash course experience in medallion designing. The first one that I made looked like a butterfly. That was definitely not going to go into production. The second one looked too much like something that everyone else has done. Can't have that either. But the third one was brilliant. It was unique, good looking and satisfactory. The only thing that left me wondering were the proportions. It was quite big. But then again, it was a drawing. When made into a stamp, I am sure that they will be able to modify it to fit onto a toe box.
Well, I am happy to be back writing to all of you. Thank you for your patience in my absence. Tomorrow will bring a bit of my experience in Spain, so be on the look out.
-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"
Picture Above Provide By: The Style Buff
Picture Below: Unknown - Can't remember where I got it from - but it's not mine.
Tuesday, 6 September 2011
What I Am Wearing
Today, I felt like wearing my new green brogues. They are somewhat hard to match with so I decided to just wear a predominantly blue outfit, as I feel that the green brogues blend well with these colors. As always I apologize for my pictures, as they are not of the caliber that a proper blogger should have. I am pretty rubbish when it comes to getting good at using cameras, but promise that soon, I will have not only a more clean look to my blog but also better quality photos. Just bear with me. On the note of plugging ahead, I am actually going to be heading on a short business trip. A trip that will have my shoes designs coming to life as tangible products. I am going to bring my computer with me, just in case I have enough time to let you all know what I am up to, but if you do not hear from me until Friday night, this is why.....Big things are happening and all of my talk about starting my own shoe line, will soon materialize!
Shoes: Bespoke made by me, with G&G 'Rothschild' upper
Jacket: H&M
Trousers: H&M
Knit Tie: Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Watch: Nixon
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