They Are Listening....And It Is About Time!!

I don't know if it is because of shoe designers like Mark McNairy and Grenson (of whom were amongst the first to come out with abnormal coloring in shoes) or because of my blog, and other ones like mine, but it would finally seem that the brands that may have once been seen as strictly conservative in their shoe making are now branching out and becoming a bit more eclectic! Never in a million years would I have thought to see Allen Edmonds making shoes in colors such as green, blue and red, and even more so using colored laces outside of black and brown. But this day has indeed come and it's quite refreshing to see. And the reason that this excites me, is because a company like Allen Edmonds, who has been making shoes for nearly 100 years and has quite an extensive and loyal customer base, also has the power to get men to think differently. So if more and more men who think that dress shoes should only be black or brown start to see their favorite brand release red shoes, blue shoes and green shoes, then it might just get them to realize that shoes can be fun, and don't have to be something that is simply necessary to complete ones outfit, but rather enhance ones outfit!

Just a reminder, if you are in London, fancy a chat or are interested in checking out Carmina's shoes, then I would suggest a quick pop over to the Rook & Raven (just north of Oxford st.) tomorrow from 11am-6pm.....hope to see some of you there!

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Maftei Interview/Post by Claymoor

Dear Readers,

I have had the pleasure of being allowed to use a very very interesting post/interview conducted by the author of Romanian blog, Claymoor, in regards to Maftei shoes (and left almost in his own word). While this is only a bit of the entire original post, which is far larger, it provides some very nice insight into who Maftei is, the shoes that his company makes and a bit of history in regards to their craftsmanship and culture. If you wish to see more pictures, please visit the original post. (All pictures belong to Claymoor blog, as well as commentary. This is just relayed through me, to you. Enjoy!)

Original Post: http://claymoor.blogspot.com/2012/01/in-vizita-la-maftei.html

As well as allow me to use this, the author of the Claymoor blog also did a nice interview on me, of which he asks me questions that have never been asked before and may provide you some more insight into who I am and more of my background and how I came to be. Just thought you might be interested in this....

The Shoe Snob Interview: http://claymoor.blogspot.com/2012/02/interviu-cu-justin-fitzpatrick-shoesnob.html

Alexandru Maftei

Maftei Post/Interview by Mircea Cioponea:

Alexandru Maftei, one of the best Viennese shoemakers, was until recently almost unknown in Romania. Maftei is the creator of a great product: men's bespoke shoes. What Maftei makes, you can only call it art. This art is not yet appreciated at its value in Romania but ultimately no one is prophet in his country. I can only hope that in the near future, Maftei’s shoes will come as a natural choice for bespoke shoes lovers.

The Maftei Store is located in Louis Pasteur Street 38 in Cotroceni, an old and chic neighborhood of Bucharest. I passed by his window shop many times and I was always drawn to the window to look at the shoes. What can I say? I love shoes and his one were exquisite.

Recently, in a cold winter evening, I made an appointment. When I finally entered I had the impression I entered the gentlemen’s saloon worthy of famous Beau Brummel, breathing elegance and style. Places like this once so common in the Small Paris (Bucharest  Belle Epoque nickname) are now very few left.
In the Maftei shop I met Mr. Radu Morariu the nephew of Alexandru Maftei and firm representative in Romania.

Romania now is an interesting country in the changing process. After a very bleak period of communist time stains of color and fashion tend to appear but they are not always in style, sometimes just jazz ups. The Romanian men for some time lost their model in style.  The Maftei shop is a good way to start on your travel for becoming a well dressed gentlemen. Maftei is a landmark.

A tale of two cities

Maftei Viennese brand has deep Romanian roots. The story began in Piatra Neamt, Romania when Alexandru Maftei started up at just 14 years old as an apprentice in a shoemaker's shop. His special talent was quickly noticed by the old masters but Romania was a communist country where the possibilities were severely restricted. He had a strong desire to evolve and he was dreaming about escaping to West, especially to Vienna. Vienna was the cradle of the legendary shoe manufactures: Rudolf Scheer & Shona
He succeeded to escape from Romania in 1988, but on his way to Vienna he was "hosted" in Hungary, in a camp for immigrants.

Arriving to Vienna through his labors in different low jobs he never let go of his dream of becoming a shoemaker. One evening on the way home, Alexandru Maftei passed by Scheer Shop and he looked in the window where amazing shoes were exposed. Alexandru stopped and contemplated the shoes and the magnificent window. That was his moment of fortune because Scheer himself walked out of the shop in that exact moment.  

Scheer noticed the foreigner who was contemplating the windows and started a conversation that drifted to shoe manufacturing.  When Scheer  found out about Maftei passion he proposed him a trial week in his workshop.

That week was followed by many others. Maftei found his place among Scheer’s artisans team. Once admitted to the team Maftei was born for a second time.  He worked for Scheer for a time refining his work methods and gaining experience working with a number of renowned craftsmen. Their histories knitted together nowadays his brother, Ionica currently is artisan of the famous Viennese company.


1996. The birth of Maftei

After the Scheer period, proven an entrepreneurial spirit,  Alexandru open his own shop   ” Maftei” in 1996, in Vienna, Kunhplatz 6.

Currently he creates unique shoes for celebrities from around the world and he had become the supplier of some of the most demanding clients both in Europe United States and Russia. Not many people know that at various Congresses and Summits world leaders are wearing Maftei creations, as Radu Morariu (Alexandru Maftei nephew’s) says.

In Romania many people buy labels and not the product, and the interest in mens shoes is quite small, not because there is no potential but there is yet no developed culture of exceptional crafted products . "However lately things changed for the better, Romanian men became more aware that the products sold at MAFTEI are customized products with a very high degree of manufacturing and the rigors are maximum. Also I noticed with joy that more and more customers are coming back pleased. They also have an improvement in taste and choosing.  They are  becoming  more refined in choosing the model that fits them. It is very important not to pick a model that you like, but one that fits your stature and constitution, and that fits your health too. Furthermore I can see a growing  interest in the way the shoes were made in craft technique like soleing  "says dl.Morariu. When you are beginning to be interested in this kind of details that means you are a ‘connoisseur’that is aware on what he spends his money. Before, the customers were interested in the price. The quality was second and essential details such as skin or how the shoe was built were not of interest.

         


Maftei bespoke shoes. The process and the final product.
                                                             
At Maftei all models are bespoke.

First visit is for measuring so if you want to make yourself a shoe on your first visit Mr Radu Morariu is going to take your exact measures. A 3D model of the foot – last, will be created. (Maftei has a special room for last like the legendary last- room of John Lobb). By the time the shoe will reach the destination-your foot  you will, if necessary, visit the shop more than once for intermediate trying on. These visits are necessary, and Radu Morariu wants to be sure that the initial “trial” shoe follows your anatomic line and the your comfort is perfect. Throughout the journey from idea to shoe (from concept to model), the customer will keep in touch with Radu Morariu so there will be no misunderstanding.

 .
Some technical details of Maftei shoes:

A big difference between Maftei and other well know craftsmen is that Maftei is not attributed to only one style/model. “We can customize the model, we can create different models of German, Budapest, English inspiration, classical models, Italian or northern models, working with all kinds of leather from calf to cordovan, reptile  or shark leather“ says Mr Morariu.

Another advantage is the price: 700 Euros for wooden nails (pegged shoes) plus 100 Euros for the last. Price is valid for calf leather models. For models with exotic skin price increases, but it does not exceed 3,000 euros for alligator.

For models with hand-sewn soles price is about 900 Euros (calf skin) but it is about half that of the main competitors of equal quality . At this price the customer can choose any model he wants and any type of customization, says Radu Morariu. Another plus is the speed. Maftei manufactured shoes can be in your foot in a very short period of time. ”We made our first bespoke shoes for Bucharest, (for a famous lawyer and politician) in 3 weeks which is a very short time in terms of manufacturing speed " recalls Radu Morariu.

The leather used in Maftei shoes is mainly from France and Italy and is vegetable tanned. “We chose  France because it has an old and still respected tradition in  vegetable tanneries”.  The customer can pick from snake, ostrich, elephant, big cats, seal, shark, crocodile, alligator skin or any other skin that he pleases as long as the skin is legally obtain. The genuine shell cordovan is provided by the well-known Horween, in Chicago, USA.

"To produce a piece of leather used for making bespoke shoes, our leather suppliers are using only 5% of the hide. For the final product warranty is 10 years since purchase, not including consumable items: sole (of foot) and heel.  Maftei also offers a repair service which begins with the sole repair, replacement of leather frame,  layer of cork, sole, and revitalizing the skin. This shoe Maftei ensure a lifetime of over 20 years” says Mr Morariu.

An important aspect is the collaboration with John Lobb on the soleing part.
"With respect I can say that Maftei is among the best in the world in terms of soleing. Due to the collaboration with John Lobb, we managed to reach a far better understanding of the last technique”. ”We are very proud of our collaboration with John Lobb” says Mr Morariu

I ended the conversation with Radu Morariu after almost 3 hours in which he showed me different samples of leather, of shoes (some fantastic shoes I can say)  and some special techniques.  "Even if a man visits the shop out of curiosity, if you manage to make him understand what a bespoke shoe is, how much work and dedication is put into every stitch, you have won yourself a regard as a craftsman. And if the visitor will become a permanent customer, satisfaction is even greater” (…) This was an interesting view about Romanians and the possibility of being successful in producing luxury products.” However I can say that in Romania there are very skilled craftsmen, and generally very talented people. But what we lack is organization and discipline. My uncle is especially proud in life of two things: he managed to carry on the rigors of craft learned from Scheer and developed “Maftei” brand  and he also managed to build in Piatra Neamt Romania, the city where he first sewed a shoe, an excellent manufacturing place that can compete with any top shoemaker shop in the world. By his hard work he won a reputation" says in closing, Radu Morariu.

Today's Favorites - Anthony Delos

You know that you are a shoe lover, when you are walking around with blood red shoes on. And let me tell you, the gentleman that owns these (a dear reader of the blog) is definitely a shoe aficionado. And while red makes such a bold statement when positioned on someone's feet, I just can't help but feel that it is such an elegant color on a shoe. The only thing is, it's hard to make a red shoe that is not over-the-top, such as my ones with white piping. That being, you can imagine that I was so immensely pleased and overtaken with admiration when I saw these bespoke beauties by Anthony Delos. Not only do they scream cool, but they also have such an elegant air about them. Imagine pairing these with a navy suit. How great would that be? I think that it would be a treat to the eye, a refreshing sight that one rarely sees. And although red they may be, amazing they definitely are!

Today's Favorites - a.Testoni

One thing that you do not see that often, is people wearing red shoes. Granted, the Pope, has done a good job at trying to promote them, but it so far hasn't seemed to catch on. I guess that I can understand why too. They do make quite a statement. When I wear my red wingtips with white piping, you can believe that there is not a shortage of looks that I receive, whether they are in adoration or in revulsion. Nevertheless, it doesn't bother me, but then again, I don't break them out that often. However, these ones by a.Testoni, on the other hand (although may be red), do not seem to be too overbearing. At least, this is what I gather from the picture. In person, they might blind the most conservative of sorts. However, I believe that with a nice navy suit, maybe a flannel one, these shoes could be quite a lovely contrast. Definitely a shoe for a shoe lover, and I won't say as I usually do that they could be integrated into a business environment, because they could not. But I will say, that red can indeed pair nicely with many suit colors, should one be so creative to attempt it.

Today's Favorites - Saion

When it comes to stealing my heart (and design ideas in my head), Saion does a great job at it!! The shoes in the second and third pictures from the top, are precisely the type of shoes that I would think to create. They define my motto of 'classic with a modern twist' and completely exemplify what is lacking on the shelves of shoe stores across the western world. Obviously, they are not lacking in Japan, because it seems as if they are the few who actually appreciate this type of stylization. That being said, I absolute dread the day that I go to Tokyo, for fear of wanting to buy every single thing that I see and not being able to afford most of it!

Another detail to point out is the amazing toe medallion on the red pair of shoes. It is quite large in comparison to many, but provides a nice, bold detail that helps to separate that semi-brogue from any other. Also added was a set of complimentary and subtle laces that provide a touch of something different in respect to your average black or brown laces. The little things, for me, just set these type of shoe companies so far above the rest, it is not even funny. If only more makers took the time to provide these little things......

Shoes Of The Week - Septieme Largeur

I have really gotten into penny loafers lately, and have been desperately wanting to get a 'classic' pair. But the only problem is that I am extremely picky when it comes to the right penny loafer and having a shape that is dead-on to what I like. I am definitely not a fan of the old-school models of penny loafers, such as the classic Bass Weejun or Cole Haan Pinch Penny, those to me should be abolished or strictly used as part of the uniform dressing at preppy ivy-league schools in the States. They are just so outdated to me. This pair, on the other hand, is exactly what I like and want! It has all of the perfect qualities: it's classic looking, elongated in just the right amount, tapered, and has not only a unique tongue but a different shaped 'penny' slit. For those that have not caught on from prior posts, Septieme Largeur, is a sub-brand of Markowski, specialized in shoes that have a hand-finished patina. And what is great about there model here, is that it would look good with the right suit, but also go great with a nice pair of jeans. It's elongated, tapered look gives it an elegance that allows you to dress it up, but also dress it down, assuming that you pair it with the proper pieces! Versatility is key!

Customer's Shoes - And My Shine

Working my concession at Gieves & Hawkes for the last 2 months now, has brought me a few shoes to shine. Unfortunately, most of them are boring black shoes, the typical London businessman type. Not that I am complaining, because some shoes are better than no shoes but it's always nice to get something different. So when I finally did have a customer that gave me something a little out of the ordinary (and right up my alley), I was eager to see what I could do for them. The first pair that you see above and directly below were actually a pair of my co-workers shoes: a green, braided tassel loafer. My friend being kind of a dandy, wanted me to add a little bit of color to them. So I thought that I would add some blue to really bring out a nice patina. Unfortunately I completely forgot to take a 'before' picture, but as you can imagine, they had lost of lot of their life and looked pretty dull, before I laid my hands on them.

 

The two directly above are shoes that a wonderfully dressed gentleman from Greece, who happened to be passing through London and managed to stumble upon my service, dropped off for me, to give them my 'artisan mirror shine.' When I received these, I was quite eager to see the end results. It truly makes a huge difference in how a shoe turns out by the quality of the leather and considering that the shoes on the left were a lovely pair of chukka boots by Edward Green and the one's on the right were a pair of bespoke shoes from makers (whom I do not know of?? -- Correction: look at the first comment for info) in Rome, I was in for a treat! 

 

Thankfully they turned out quite well, as you can see, and the customer was so pleased that he also left me to do his Edward Green "Shannon" boots, that were just to die for!! It was so nice to see what a polish can do for a color that is not black. It can truly transform the shoe! While none of the shoes that I shined looked bad when I got them, they sure looked amazing when I was done with them (not to toot my own horn) and that was thanks to the lovely wax polish that I use and the wonderfully great leather that I was working with. The only downfall to giving shines to beautiful shoes, is the amount of jealousy I feel afterward, knowing that I do not get to keep the shoes! I await the day I am brought a pair of Corthay shoes.....

Before:

After:

P.S. The smudge-looking thing on the picture above, near the stitching, was not actually there, it must be some effect of the lighting couple with the flash from my camera.