Carreducker Interview

As many of you may already know, I am located at Gieves & Hawkes, just a spitting distance away from the new home of bespoke shoemakers James Ducker and Deborah Carre, whom make up the duo known as Carreducker. Them being such an easy target and good friends of mine, I figured that with the launch of the new store layout (which includes the Carreducker's, myself and many other interesting things) at Gieves and Hawkes on Savile Row, it would be a good time to give them the interview spotlight in order to tell us how their transition has been going!

As they have been readers of my blog, for quite some time now, it was an honor to have finally met them (when I came to England) and to have found out that I would be working so close to them. As an aspiring shoemaker myself, you can imagine how opportunistic it is for me to be near them. All of the answers to my questions are just 20 feet away (6 meters). That being, here is their interview, which I had presented to them to be answered individually. Enjoy!

1. How long have you been involved in shoemaking/shoe design?

Deborah Carre: I've always had a passion for design and studied design at university - I have a BA Hons in fashion design and marketing and worked with RE Trickers to produce my final collection; whilst working I did part-time pattern cutting, fashion illustration and handsewn shoemaking courses; before then taking up a four year apprenticeship in handsewn shoemaking.

James Ducker:  I STARTED IN 1992 IN BARCELONA DOING EVENING CLASSES AND CONTINUED MAKING IN MY SPARE TIME. I RETURNED TO LONDON IN 1998 TO START AN APPRENTICESHIP WITH JOHN LOBB LTD.


2. What was it that made you decide that you wanted to get into shoemaking/shoe design?

DC: Accessories interest me because of the constraints of scale and proportion...plus I have always loved men's shoes.  When I was deciding what to do for my final collection at college I identified a gap in the market for a combination of craft and design. I approached RE Trickers to sponsor my collection of unisex box calf, handsewn boots. I was fortunate enough to work closely with their head of production and bespoke maker. I was attracted to the combination of working with my head and hands - problem solving - and enjoyed the experience so much that when I left college, I continued to study part time and then won a QEST scholarship to do an apprenticeship.

JD: SERENDIPITY REALLY. I HAPPENED UPON THE CLASSES AND FELL IN LOVE WITH IT

3. Most English shoemakers are very conservative in their look (shoe design) yet you tend to be a bit more creative and unique in your styling. Why break the traditional English mold?

DC: I can't help it - I have Sark and American blood in me!  No seriously that is why James and I are such a good design team, he tempers my extravagances and I push him outside his comfort zone. English people are renown for their eccentricity - and James and I don't go crazy, we just like good style and design.

JD: A NUMBER OF REASONS REALLY. IT IS OUR NATURAL AESTHETIC TO DESIGN THE WAY WE DO. YOU HAVE TO BE TRUE TO YOUR SELF AS A DESIGNER AND THEN HOPE THAT CUSTOMERS LIKE YOUR STYLE AND BUY INTO IT. IT SETS US APART FROM OUR COMPETITORS. BEING JUST LIKE THEM WOULD NOT HELP US. IT BRINGS THE CRAFT INTO THE 21ST CENTURY BY MARRYING ANCIENT CRAFT SKILLS WITH A MODERN DESIGN ETHOS
 
4. What is your favorite color? Favorite color on a shoe?

DC: My favourite colour is french navy...and my favourite colour in a shoe...well I am going through a blue phase at the moment so it would have to be pale blue nubuck for a summer derby.

JD:  I LOVE COLOUR IN GENERAL, BUT I LIKE IT USED SPARINGLY IN ALONGSIDE MORE NEUTRAL TONES. IT'S COMBINATIONS OF COLOURS THAT I REALLY LIKE. THIS IS TRUE FOR SHOES AS WELL. NAVY BLUE IS MY CURRENT FAVOURITE BUT THAT COULD CHANGE!

5. What is your favorite model out of Carreducker's collection?

DC: I love the boots we did for Guy Hills in his own The Dashing Dashing Tweeds and claret lizard skin. It was one of the first fabric/leather combinations we did. I LOVE boots and the mix of fabric and leather is playful but stylish.

JD: MEN'S SHOE IS PROBABLY THE SADDLE BOOT AND LADIES IS THE DIETRICH

 6. You recently moved into Gieves & Hawkes, how has the transition help/affected Carreducker's business?

DC: On a positive note we are very privileged to be one of Gieves & Hawkes partners and turning the corner at 1 Savile Row never fails to put a smile on my face. And it all came about through a sequence of serendipitous meetings...one of those moments of everything coming together in a positive way.  It has offered us unprecedented access to bespoke enthusiasts; an unbeatable address; and exposure to customers who would not know of us otherwise. The only negative is that we are incredibly distracted and the speed of our making at Gieves suffers; and we have to be much better organised about our workload/tools etc. (which is actually a very good thing)

JD: ITS BEEN FANTASTIC. ORDERS HAVE INCREASED AND WE ARE SEEING THE RIGHT CLIENTS AND THEY ARE SEEING OUR SHOES. ITS THE PERFECT MARRIAGE REALLY, BESPOKE SUITS AND SHOES UNDER ONE ROOF!

7. What is the hardest thing about being a bespoke shoemaker? Subsequently, what is the most rewarding?


DC: You have to be fit and to stay physically fit - I hurt both elbows pulling a student's lasts in January and still have very painful tendinitis; when it goes wrong  there is no make do and mend. If the seam rips when you are taking the lasts out of a pair of customer shoes you have to start all over again - so we never tell a customer their shoes are ready until we have pulled the lasts. The rewards are simple - the satisfaction of finishing a pair of shoes well and seeing a customer (particularly one with discomfort) walk away happy in a pair of shoes we have made.

JD: THE HARDEST THING IS MAKING NO MONEY FOR YEARS AND YEARS. MY ADVICE TO THOSE WHO ASK IS DO IT FOR THE PASSION OF SHOEMAKING, BECAUSE YOU LOVE IT. THE MOST REWARDING THING IS THE CRAFT ITSELF, MAKING SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL AND EMINENTLY PRACTICAL.

8.You offer a course where you teach people how to make a pair of shoes, how many people (that you know of) have gone on the continue the trade?

DC: At least nine students have continued making; one is doing an apprenticeship, two have set up their own workshops; five more are still making for friends and family; and one is making for a hobby.

JD: WE HAVE AT LEAST 5 WHO ARE MAKING A SERIOUS GO OF IT AND 1 OTHER WHO HAS SET UP A WORKSHOP FOR HIS OWN PLEASURE.

9. What do you hope to see unfold in the shoe industry within the next 10 years?

DC: A greater understanding of handsewn and the difference between handsewn and hand made; a greater appreciation for true craft; a move away from manufacturing in China and a return to English-made shoes.

JD: THE GROWTH OF BESPOKE SHOES, AS PEOPLE SEE THE BENEFIT OF MEETING THE PERSON WHO IS GOING TO MAKE THEIR SHOES; OF KNOWING THE PROVENANCE OF THE LEATHERS ETC; OF BEING INVOLVED IN THE DESIGN; AND OF WEARING WONDERFUL SHOES THAT FIT THEM PROPERLY. IN GENERAL A MOVE TO QUALITY OVER QUANTITY IN MANUFACTURED SHOES. 1 DECENT PAIR INSTEAD OF 3 RUBBISH ONES.  

10. And advice for aspiring shoemakers/shoe designers?

  
DC: Only do it if you love it 

JD: BE PASSIONATE AND TENACIOUS. IT CAN BE DONE - JUST LOOK AT DEBORAH AND I 

Well, thank you to the two of you, it's a pleasure as always. I hope that all of you enjoyed the interview. Posted below are a few pics of some of their new styles that they have done in collaboration with Gieves & Hawkes. 

Until next time,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

 

 

Today's Favorites - Braided Shoes By Sutor Mantellassi

When it comes to braided shoes, I have always been really hit or miss with them, which is how I perceive most people to also be. It seems that I either really like them or really hate them. So, as you can imagine, these one's here by Sutor Mantellassi are one of the few that I actually appreciate. The fact that the braid is relatively small and that they are a plain toe allows me to appreciate the actual braid without being distracted by anything else. I am not sure if that made sense, but I feel like most shoes with braided upper's are so distracting but this one seems to be more discreet, in a way. Since, I have been in England, however, I have yet to see one gentleman wearing a braided shoe. Maybe they are not so liked here, as they are in the States? You would think that they would be though as there are rules to what a English gentleman should and should not wear. And being that I can't imagine the flip-flop being a big hit with the old conservatives, I would think that a nice casual dress shoe such as this would be the perfect answer to summer wear. Maybe I am wrong?

On another note, I have collected the rest of my shoes that were left behind in Italy (mostly trainers) and am going to be getting the rest of my shoes that were left behind in the States (mostly dress shoes and Sperry's) so in one month's time, I will have ALL of my shoes in one place!! This will allow me to get back onto to taking more pictures of my stuff for all of you to see and judge me on!! And one of those shoes, just so happens to be a nice pair of Allen Edmonds, which are braided. Enjoy the rest of your Sunday!!

Shoes Of The Week - Mark Guyot

I must admit, before coming to England, I had never even heard of the butterfly loafer. I am not familiar with any American makers that produce one (unless Allen Edmonds has recently caught on) nor did I have a run-in during my short but sweet time in Italy. But now that I am here, in the heart of Mayfair, where there are all of the arcade's that host space to the likes of New & Lingwood and George Cleverley, I cannot seem to get away from the butterfly loafer. But I like it, it's unique, it's produces a nice medium between plain, boring loafer and over the top. Said to be originally designed by the likes of Mr. George Cleverley himself, it has since evolved as seen here, by French maker Marc Guyot.

One thing that I particularly like about this version of the butterfly loafer, is the fact that French makers tend to design the vamp so that it extends much higher up the foot, towards the ankle. For me, it is much more elegant looking although it does have the downfall of not showing as much sock, which can be a shame when you are trying to pull of out fancy, dandy outfit! We are rumored to be getting a burgundy pair of the classic, George Cleverley designed butterfly loafer sometime in May, here at Gieves & Hawkes. So, since I do not have one nor a burgundy loafer (something that I have been longing for) I am holding out for those! If only the French makers were more readily available here in England, things would be different. But I cannot afford to fly to Paris just to get a pair of shoes, not yet at least!

Today's Favorites - The Generic Man

When the sun is out, trainers are in! And considering that it has been quite nice here in the South of England, I am more and more grabbing my trainers to wear on my days off. So, in honor of all of this beautiful weather that we have been having, I figured that I would switch it up today, with some casual shoes. The shoes shown here are part of The Generic Man's Spring 2011 line up and while I am normally not a huge fan of this type of sole (when attempted to be paired with a dress shoe), I actually think that it compliments the rest of the shoe quite well. The more I notice shoes that I like, the more I see that classic (or plain) but with a modern twist fits into every liking that I have. This shoe, relatively simple in it's design, is the perfect example of something quite plain but with a few added details that makes it unique and intriguing, such as the piping, the linen upper and the brown welt on top of the white foam sole. These little things that you may not think about are what gives this shoe 'a presence,' thus differentiating it from every other Spring 2011 shoe that might be similar. The details, the details, the details..........

Pictures Provide By: The Shoe Buff

Shoe Snob Picture In GQ UK online

 

Gieves and Hawkes was featured in an article on GQ online (UK edition) and I just happened to make the picture sequence on a brief bit about shoes. Unfortunately there is no writing by me but I thought that I would share with all of you my first 5 seconds of GQ fame. 

Full Article Here

Shoe Pricing - From Cost of Production to Retail Price

The hardest thing about starting a shoe line, or really just starting your business plan to a shoe line, is coming up with the price that you want to sell your shoes at, retail value. There are so many factors that will dictate what that final price will be, factors that you might never have thought about before, like the fact that retailers will mark up a shoe's wholesale price 2-3 times over (e.g. wholesale price = $100, retail price would be = $200-$300). But those are just the two end prices, let alone the cost of production versus the cost of what, me, the shoe designer, would pay the factory, for each pair. This is what I am going through right now, as I decide where I want to make my shoes (Italy vs. England) and how I am going to be able to do my best to balance price vs quality. Because all in all, I want to make a good quality, goodyear welted shoe, that can last a good amount of time for my customers, but at the same time don't want them to retail at way above the common man's price range. This dilemma is a big one, and has made me realize why some shoes are indeed, very expensive.











Shoes at Top of Page: Allen Edmonds
Shoes Above: Grenson

In my opinion, globalization is the reason that I, and many other designers/makers are having or had this same problem. If you can remember, there used to be a number of fantastic shoemakers in the US, that made good quality shoes, such as Florsheim and Johnston & Murphy. But now, due to the amount of cheap labor and materials, many of those same companies decided to take that lower-priced route and shirked on their quality of labor and materials, thus resulting in shit shoes. Granted, there were a couple of American makers that stood their ground, such as Allen Edmonds and Alden, but even now, you can see where the quality is slowly deteriorating on Allen Edmond's models, or you will find the same quality, but the price has gone up and you no longer get a pair of extra laces, nice shoe bags or some sort of shoe horn. It's just the shoes and some cloth that they wrap the shoe around. So when you wonder why shoes are so expensive these days, thank globalization for it, because in reality, the high quality, goodyear welted shoes that you think should be cheaper, in fact should not! Grenson, for example, can make a beautiful, well-made shoe, but they have now chosen to re-evaluate their company, and with that decided to start mass producing by having shoes made in India, with either glued or blake stitched soles so that they could retail at $300-$400. Because their high end goodyear welted shoes, would sell for 350-450 GBP, which would then result to around $700. It's not a bad thing, it just is what it is. Companies want to stay afloat, and unfortunately because of the way the world is right now, that's what they have to do.

Shoes Above: Stefano Bemer

Back to my dilemma. I am sitting here thinking, 'Okay, for my customer, I want to make a high styled shoe. Something classic but with a modern touch yet it is absolutely pertinent that I make a good quality shoe or else I would just be a complete hypocrite.' This is what I tell myself. But then, I am stuck with knowing that it will cost me around 120 GBP (minimum) to buy a goodyear welted shoe with high quality leathers from a British factory (and who knows what it actually cost them to make it?). Then let's say that I only want to make 50 GBP profit on each pair. (That's not asking too much now!) That would mean that my wholesale price would be 170 GBP to sell to retailers. So let's say that I sell it to retailer X in London. Their price would at least be 425 GBP. You might say that this is not a lot, and when comparing it to a pair of John Lobbs, it's not a super high price in reality. But now, considering that the British pound is the strongest form of currency and it's market will only be a small part of my business, we have to take into account what that same 170 GBP wholesale shoe would sell for around the world. So now let's assume that retailer Y in the States wants to buy my shoes (and the x-rate is 1.6 dollars to the British pound). That would make my wholesale price at $272 which would then make the retail price $680 and that does not even take into account the tariffs that US custom's is going to tag on. So, to make a simple goodyear welted shoe, with some nice leather that will last the average man around 10-20 years with re-soles, you are looking at 425 GBP or around $700. How many people can afford $700 or 425 GBP shoes? That's my dilemma!










Shoes Above: John Lobb

My Shoes #20 - To Boot New York

During my time at Nordstrom, I acquired a lot of To Boot New York shoes and this was one of the first models that I got, and definitely my favorite. It is just such a great summer shoe and it looks good with jeans but can also be dressed up in a casual sort of way. The toe, while it was already darkened from the get-go, was probably the first burnish that I ever actually did and it took me awhile to actually do it, as I had no idea what I was doing but was just so eager to give the shoe some contrast. Thankfully it actually turned up nicely and they have been going strong for quite some time, even with that razor thin sole. Like I said in an earlier post, I have been obsessed with loafers lately and it has definitely been expressed in my outfits as I have set my oxfords aside. While it is such a boring option, I have been longing for a simple black, elegant loafer but have yet to find the right one. Anyway, sorry that it has been awhile since my last personal shoe post, but it is not always easy finding someone to flash pics of me, at least not flattering ones that don't involve the background of my flat!