Today's Favorites - Clae Fall/Winter 2012

While sneakers may not appeal to all of you, I do have to pay homage every now and then, to the shoe style that birthed my profound passion for footwear. And what would be better than a sneaker that is taking influence from dress shoe styles, such as the saddle and the wing tip, as these Clae models are? What I love about the shoe industry these days is that everything is being mixed. Sneakers are taking from dress shoes and vice versa. And so when you love dress shoes, but fancy a sneaker for casual wear, it's nice when you are able to find the blending between the two that presents itself in a smart sneaker. And that's what we have here. But even more so, they used a fabric to make the shoe even more playful. It's all of my favorite things literally balled up into one shoe, except that its a sneaker instead of a dress shoe. Imagine if it was a dress shoe, how crazy would that be? This is why I still love looking at sneakers. I don't wear them as often, but I do take inspiration from them, as I will from these models here.....

Pictures Courtesy Of: The Shoe Buff

The Only Dress Shoe Ever Really Needed - The Black Wholecut

Gaziano & Girling Deco Range: Cooper

This title might sound like shoe lover blasphemy, and believe me I can't say that I would ever think of just having one, but.....if life presented itself with this situation, it's best to be equipped with what is going to get you through it all. What made me think of this was a discussion that was occurring on Style Forum (a while back) in regards to one's absolute shoe essentials. One gentleman stated that instead of having multiple essentials, he would have preferred to have just one shoe that could get him through each and every situation. Now, he did not mention the black wholecut, and this is where him and I will differ but I got to thinking about people out there who may only be able to afford getting just one or simply can't justify having multiple options. That being, thinking about society, 'the rules' and 'norms', and all of the different possible outfits one would need in life, I decided to create my own little idea of what would be the best option out there for all around purposes. And because I once learned in philosophy class at Uni that every statement needs to be argued against and then re-argued for, I will list my don'ts and do's below.

Berluti

What Not To Wear Black Wholecuts With

In all of the shoe-dom, there is not one shoe style that goes with everything, not even the versatile brown full brogue (can't pair it with black!). And while you might think that a black shoe can go with most things...let me tell you that the wholecut is just not any 'ol black shoe. It's in another category due to it's cleanliness look from being virtually stitch free. That being, there are some types of trousers that just won't measure up to the aesthetic of the black wholecut. For example, jeans being one of them. While I am a total jean guy and do like to wear my leather soled shoes with jeans, I don't think that I would ever pair a black wholecut with them. It's just too contrasting: a mega-dress shoe with real casual trousers (jeans). It just doesn't work. Same thing with khakis, they are simply too casual for the likes of the black wholecut. It would not look right, as neither would anything green or brown. Now you might feel that there are many things limiting here....but in reality, how often do you wear green or brown trousers? Khakis and jeans are much more common, but are also much more casual and hence the title being about a dress shoe, I feel that this is not so bad!

Koji Suzuki

What To Wear Black Wholecuts With

Now this list is going to be much more extensive, not so much in option of clothing, but in colors that the average person uses. Think about what we wear most: grays and blues (mostly navy), particularly in our suiting. While I used to not be an advocate of pairing navy with black, the more I find myself here in England, the more I find it acceptable. While it still would not ever be my preferred pairing, it does look good when needing to be elegantly conservative. That being, you satisfy most of your professional wardrobe, not to mention anything that is formal. In reality, you don't need a patent shoe, but just need to put a real nice shine on a black wholecut and instead of being like everyone else at the black tie event, you will be the one with a brilliant shine and a much more elegant shoe (in my opinion). As for other occasions, what do you wear when going to an interview? What do you wear when going to a nice dinner? You wear black shoes. And the wholecut, being the most elegant of all, will neither look too formal nor too shabby. It will be the safe choice. Obviously, these are not end-all-be-all rules, but when talking about the one shoe that will safely get you by in every occasion, you can't go wrong with the black dress shoe, and even more so, than the minimalistic wholecut. So, if you are a young chap looking for your first dress shoe, look no further than a lovely black wholecut!

Gaziano & Girling bespoke model

Random Beauties

Gaziano & Girling courtesy of Rugged Old Salt

Louis Vutton

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo

Pierre Corthay courtesy of Nikow Blog

Dear Readers,

I know that normally I write a long post for Monday, but today I am super busy, absolutely knackered, and frankly just can't be asked. That being, I will keep the long post for tomorrow and thought that instead of writing a bunch today, would just leave you all with a bit shoe porn to feast your eyes upon. I hope that everyone had a great weekend and I will be back tomorrow for some more witty remarks, useless knowledge and outlandish opinions!

Until then....

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Shoes Of The Week - Blue Two Tone Brogues by Alfred Sargent

These monks, to me, are the epitome of cool. It is the type of shoe that I would love to wear day in and day out. Partially because I am such a sucker for blue but also because it represents the idea of being fun and a bit outrageous with your shoe choices. Yes, I will say that if you are a businessman, it's not the most practical choice, but then again, neither is buying and owning a Ferrari in a cramped city like Florence, Italy. But if you had the money and wanted the car, that practicality is not going to stop you, is it? No! That being, shoes like this appeal to me in the utmost way, as they define my ideal of a dream shoe. A shoe that I can wear with not a care in the world, as I would not need to look any which way for any person. Just basically being able to dress how I like. While I can do that anyway, there still are times where I have to be a bit on the conservative side.....unfortunately.

Nevertheless, I wholeheartedly applaud Alfred Sargent for not only making this, but also releasing it. I also applaud online shoe store, A Fine Pair of Shoes, for buying it to then sell to customers. Much bravery (of which I truly admire) went into the thought of this shoe, from conception to wholesale purchase and for me, it makes me smile as it represents progression in the shoe industry!

What I Am Wearing - Suede Loafers & Blazer

This outfit here is one of my more classic looks, as in I believe that this is something that many others have done before: brown suede loafers, khaki looking trousers, blue blazer & gold/yellow tie. And even though I usually try not to be too classic, I must say that I quite like this look. For me it gives the notion of one who likes to be smart looking but not stuffy. This look is insanely common in Italy, although they seem to be a bit more bold in their trouser colors, commonly using white, red or purple (maybe that was just Florence, as those three colors represent the football team...) and more often than not, just leaving the tie at home. But you see it less often here in London, mainly due to the 'rules of attire,' which states that a gentleman must dress in black shoes/dark suits Monday through Thursday and only break out the more "casual" pieces from Friday onwards. As I don't follow these rules by any means, I must not be a true gentleman....not yet at least....

Shoes: Ferragamo (Tremezza line AKA Goodyear welted)
Jacket: Vintage
Trousers: Levi's
Shirt: Primark
Tie: Robert Talbott 'Best of Class'

Today's Favorites - Don Ville Belgian Loafers

I have always been very intrigued by the Belgian loafer, yet have never really come across them in real life, only in pictures. And while that relationship remains the same, I have found a few that I absolutely love and will most likely look to commission in the near future when I can accumulate some disposable income. These models presented are by American bespoke/MTO shoemaker, Don Ville. While I really really like the one below with orange piping, I have to admit that it was the Prince of Wales fabric one that truly grabbed my attention and made me want to get a pair. As most of you know, my obsession with using suit fabrics on shoes, has yet to diminish and I think that this smart/casual loafer is the perfect option to accommodate such material. While both of these models are spoken for (and thus not readily available to the public), I do believe that anyone can commission what he/she pleases (immediately in the leather option) so long as it is available, but must supply his/her own fabric should they choose to go that route.... Enjoy!

Maftei Interview/Post by Claymoor

Dear Readers,

I have had the pleasure of being allowed to use a very very interesting post/interview conducted by the author of Romanian blog, Claymoor, in regards to Maftei shoes (and left almost in his own word). While this is only a bit of the entire original post, which is far larger, it provides some very nice insight into who Maftei is, the shoes that his company makes and a bit of history in regards to their craftsmanship and culture. If you wish to see more pictures, please visit the original post. (All pictures belong to Claymoor blog, as well as commentary. This is just relayed through me, to you. Enjoy!)

Original Post: http://claymoor.blogspot.com/2012/01/in-vizita-la-maftei.html

As well as allow me to use this, the author of the Claymoor blog also did a nice interview on me, of which he asks me questions that have never been asked before and may provide you some more insight into who I am and more of my background and how I came to be. Just thought you might be interested in this....

The Shoe Snob Interview: http://claymoor.blogspot.com/2012/02/interviu-cu-justin-fitzpatrick-shoesnob.html

Alexandru Maftei

Maftei Post/Interview by Mircea Cioponea:

Alexandru Maftei, one of the best Viennese shoemakers, was until recently almost unknown in Romania. Maftei is the creator of a great product: men's bespoke shoes. What Maftei makes, you can only call it art. This art is not yet appreciated at its value in Romania but ultimately no one is prophet in his country. I can only hope that in the near future, Maftei’s shoes will come as a natural choice for bespoke shoes lovers.

The Maftei Store is located in Louis Pasteur Street 38 in Cotroceni, an old and chic neighborhood of Bucharest. I passed by his window shop many times and I was always drawn to the window to look at the shoes. What can I say? I love shoes and his one were exquisite.

Recently, in a cold winter evening, I made an appointment. When I finally entered I had the impression I entered the gentlemen’s saloon worthy of famous Beau Brummel, breathing elegance and style. Places like this once so common in the Small Paris (Bucharest  Belle Epoque nickname) are now very few left.
In the Maftei shop I met Mr. Radu Morariu the nephew of Alexandru Maftei and firm representative in Romania.

Romania now is an interesting country in the changing process. After a very bleak period of communist time stains of color and fashion tend to appear but they are not always in style, sometimes just jazz ups. The Romanian men for some time lost their model in style.  The Maftei shop is a good way to start on your travel for becoming a well dressed gentlemen. Maftei is a landmark.

A tale of two cities

Maftei Viennese brand has deep Romanian roots. The story began in Piatra Neamt, Romania when Alexandru Maftei started up at just 14 years old as an apprentice in a shoemaker's shop. His special talent was quickly noticed by the old masters but Romania was a communist country where the possibilities were severely restricted. He had a strong desire to evolve and he was dreaming about escaping to West, especially to Vienna. Vienna was the cradle of the legendary shoe manufactures: Rudolf Scheer & Shona
He succeeded to escape from Romania in 1988, but on his way to Vienna he was "hosted" in Hungary, in a camp for immigrants.

Arriving to Vienna through his labors in different low jobs he never let go of his dream of becoming a shoemaker. One evening on the way home, Alexandru Maftei passed by Scheer Shop and he looked in the window where amazing shoes were exposed. Alexandru stopped and contemplated the shoes and the magnificent window. That was his moment of fortune because Scheer himself walked out of the shop in that exact moment.  

Scheer noticed the foreigner who was contemplating the windows and started a conversation that drifted to shoe manufacturing.  When Scheer  found out about Maftei passion he proposed him a trial week in his workshop.

That week was followed by many others. Maftei found his place among Scheer’s artisans team. Once admitted to the team Maftei was born for a second time.  He worked for Scheer for a time refining his work methods and gaining experience working with a number of renowned craftsmen. Their histories knitted together nowadays his brother, Ionica currently is artisan of the famous Viennese company.


1996. The birth of Maftei

After the Scheer period, proven an entrepreneurial spirit,  Alexandru open his own shop   ” Maftei” in 1996, in Vienna, Kunhplatz 6.

Currently he creates unique shoes for celebrities from around the world and he had become the supplier of some of the most demanding clients both in Europe United States and Russia. Not many people know that at various Congresses and Summits world leaders are wearing Maftei creations, as Radu Morariu (Alexandru Maftei nephew’s) says.

In Romania many people buy labels and not the product, and the interest in mens shoes is quite small, not because there is no potential but there is yet no developed culture of exceptional crafted products . "However lately things changed for the better, Romanian men became more aware that the products sold at MAFTEI are customized products with a very high degree of manufacturing and the rigors are maximum. Also I noticed with joy that more and more customers are coming back pleased. They also have an improvement in taste and choosing.  They are  becoming  more refined in choosing the model that fits them. It is very important not to pick a model that you like, but one that fits your stature and constitution, and that fits your health too. Furthermore I can see a growing  interest in the way the shoes were made in craft technique like soleing  "says dl.Morariu. When you are beginning to be interested in this kind of details that means you are a ‘connoisseur’that is aware on what he spends his money. Before, the customers were interested in the price. The quality was second and essential details such as skin or how the shoe was built were not of interest.

         


Maftei bespoke shoes. The process and the final product.
                                                             
At Maftei all models are bespoke.

First visit is for measuring so if you want to make yourself a shoe on your first visit Mr Radu Morariu is going to take your exact measures. A 3D model of the foot – last, will be created. (Maftei has a special room for last like the legendary last- room of John Lobb). By the time the shoe will reach the destination-your foot  you will, if necessary, visit the shop more than once for intermediate trying on. These visits are necessary, and Radu Morariu wants to be sure that the initial “trial” shoe follows your anatomic line and the your comfort is perfect. Throughout the journey from idea to shoe (from concept to model), the customer will keep in touch with Radu Morariu so there will be no misunderstanding.

 .
Some technical details of Maftei shoes:

A big difference between Maftei and other well know craftsmen is that Maftei is not attributed to only one style/model. “We can customize the model, we can create different models of German, Budapest, English inspiration, classical models, Italian or northern models, working with all kinds of leather from calf to cordovan, reptile  or shark leather“ says Mr Morariu.

Another advantage is the price: 700 Euros for wooden nails (pegged shoes) plus 100 Euros for the last. Price is valid for calf leather models. For models with exotic skin price increases, but it does not exceed 3,000 euros for alligator.

For models with hand-sewn soles price is about 900 Euros (calf skin) but it is about half that of the main competitors of equal quality . At this price the customer can choose any model he wants and any type of customization, says Radu Morariu. Another plus is the speed. Maftei manufactured shoes can be in your foot in a very short period of time. ”We made our first bespoke shoes for Bucharest, (for a famous lawyer and politician) in 3 weeks which is a very short time in terms of manufacturing speed " recalls Radu Morariu.

The leather used in Maftei shoes is mainly from France and Italy and is vegetable tanned. “We chose  France because it has an old and still respected tradition in  vegetable tanneries”.  The customer can pick from snake, ostrich, elephant, big cats, seal, shark, crocodile, alligator skin or any other skin that he pleases as long as the skin is legally obtain. The genuine shell cordovan is provided by the well-known Horween, in Chicago, USA.

"To produce a piece of leather used for making bespoke shoes, our leather suppliers are using only 5% of the hide. For the final product warranty is 10 years since purchase, not including consumable items: sole (of foot) and heel.  Maftei also offers a repair service which begins with the sole repair, replacement of leather frame,  layer of cork, sole, and revitalizing the skin. This shoe Maftei ensure a lifetime of over 20 years” says Mr Morariu.

An important aspect is the collaboration with John Lobb on the soleing part.
"With respect I can say that Maftei is among the best in the world in terms of soleing. Due to the collaboration with John Lobb, we managed to reach a far better understanding of the last technique”. ”We are very proud of our collaboration with John Lobb” says Mr Morariu

I ended the conversation with Radu Morariu after almost 3 hours in which he showed me different samples of leather, of shoes (some fantastic shoes I can say)  and some special techniques.  "Even if a man visits the shop out of curiosity, if you manage to make him understand what a bespoke shoe is, how much work and dedication is put into every stitch, you have won yourself a regard as a craftsman. And if the visitor will become a permanent customer, satisfaction is even greater” (…) This was an interesting view about Romanians and the possibility of being successful in producing luxury products.” However I can say that in Romania there are very skilled craftsmen, and generally very talented people. But what we lack is organization and discipline. My uncle is especially proud in life of two things: he managed to carry on the rigors of craft learned from Scheer and developed “Maftei” brand  and he also managed to build in Piatra Neamt Romania, the city where he first sewed a shoe, an excellent manufacturing place that can compete with any top shoemaker shop in the world. By his hard work he won a reputation" says in closing, Radu Morariu.

Shoes Of The Week - Dimitri Bottier Seamless Whole Cut

It's amazing that the hardest shoe to make, is the shoe that has the least amount of detail to it. And while I can't really back that statement up with in-depth description of how it is done (since I am not entirely sure), I can say that the seamless wholecut is something that few people can create. This model here, by legendary bespoke maker Dimitri Gomez, is a perfect example of just how beautiful this design can be. To me, the wholecut (and especially seamless version) tells you a lot about the shoemaker. The reason being, is that when you take away all of the fluff (e.g. stitching, brogueing, detailing), all that you are left with is the shape of the last and how the leather sits on that shape. That little thing, will tell you just how well the pattern/last maker understands shape and proportion. A last can be designed a trillion ways, but only a few of them will make you say, "WOW!" And there is no better shoe than the seamless wholecut to make you see that. Needless to say, this model shown is simply flawless and I can tell you, while I have a nice burgundy wholecut already, I will commission one of these sometime in the future!!

Today's Favorites - Sebago's The Patriot

After having some pretty cold weather these last few weeks in London, the sun (and warmth) finally came out today, which almost gave the feeling of a Spring arrival. Now, I must say that I have a real love/hate relationship with our world's seasons. I love the heat and hate the cold, but hate the clothing for the Spring/Summer and love the clothing for Autumn/Winter. Sounds weird doesn't it? But about one of the only things that I really really like for the Spring/Summer 2012 season is the return of the boat shoe. I always look forward to seeing what the boat shoe companies are going to come up with every year in hopes to find something that I really like. This year's upcoming big one is called The Patriot by Sebago, of which any proud British gentleman (and possibly lady) will be able to adorn his country's flag on the sole of his shoe. I can't say that I am particularly a big fan of wearing flags on my clothes, but nevertheless, I quite enjoy the rest of this shoe, from the clear sole to the bold lining colors, and just the colors in general. It's quite amazing to see how much of an impact Sebago has been making these last couple of years, first in the States, and now here in England. I can only be excited about their future collaborations and concoctions! For those that share my passion for a nice boat shoe and fancy this one, it will be available from mid-May, and will be exclusive at John Lewis.