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Showing posts with label Shoe Factories. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Shoe Factories. Show all posts

Monday, 12 September 2011

Western Boot Factory


First and foremost, please excuse how horrible I look in this picture. It was like 500 degrees outside --as I was in the middle of the desert-- and my hair was not feeling it. I had also gained a couple of kilo's from how incredibly well the Spanish eat, like kings....hence my belly looking like a bloated lump. On another note, most of you know that I was away, in Spain, turning my designs into technical drawings (aka patterns) so that they could be made up into my first round of prototypes to my shoe line. While this little world is very much hush-hush in the way of doing business, I am not really able to speak about exactly where I went, but can tell you that the city I was in, was a town known for it's factories, particularly in shoes. During my 3 days there things were going quick -- giving me spare time to kill -- so as everyone knows everyone, I was able to go see other factories that I could share with all of you, such as this western boot one.

(PS - The pictures for some reason are giving me a hard time, so please excuse the messy look of them)

Boxes of shoes to be Shipped
To see the depth of the factory



Outside View of Back of Factory
Half of the shipment in one day


Just one of the walls of leather











While it's hard to get an exact feel for just how big the factory was, you can see in the pictures that it was quite large. They did it all here. The only thing that I believe was outsourced, of course, was the leather. But as this was a factory town, everything was either done here, or just around the corner and in conjunction. It was quite surreal. I mean, I never thought of western boots being so big. I always assumed that there were a few cowboys in the South of the States and people in Mexico who wore them, but to my ignorance, apparently many people in Europe do to, as some of the boots that were being made up while I was there, were being sent to Holland. Go figure....


Endless Heels
And more leather













Hammering the leather on the shaft of a boot
A wall of insoles








Several thousand pounds worth of Croc

Several of the many racks of lasts
Spools of colored thread

Blue snakeskin -- interesting









Welts
Random machine






















As you can see, it's quite different to my post about small, intimate shoe factories, such as G&G's factory. Everything was in large scale. Lasts were endless, leather was everywhere and there were a million machines, of which the majority of them I had no clue of what they did, such as the one directly above, left. But nonetheless, it all seemed to flow very fluidly. Shoes were placed on racks (as you will notice in pictures below) and passed around the factory, from machine to machine, and section to section. One of the most amazing parts of the factory though, were the machines that put on the intricate stitching (embroidery) that you find on the upper leather bits of cowboy boots. It was simply amazing to watch the machine mimic a cut out pattern which would then create the intricate design that you find on the boots. One machine (in a picture below left) would do the same embroidery on 8 pieces of leather at a time. And another cool machine was the automatic leather cutting machine that was able to cut leather through a computerized system which allowed it to minimize the waste of leather.



















While one might think that cowboy boots might be so different than dress shoes, in reality the factory (and therefore the way of construction) was very much similar to the likes of the Santoni factory, which I visited a few years back. And even though I am not really a big fan of cowboy boots, in the sense that I would never wear them, I really do appreciate the work, detailing and intricacy of their nature. It is rare to see a boring cowboy boot. While the classic cowboys may have worn them in either plain black or plain tan brown cow skin, you will find that these days they are made up of all types of color, embroidered patterns, and animal hides.  My favorite out of all of them are the blue pair that I have put directly below, left.

















































Well, I hope that you have all enjoyed this post. It is quite a surreal thing being in a factory that supplies a major stake of a certain shoe in the industry, such as cowboy boots. As a little tidbit, I will leave you with the only thing that I can share with you, which are my lasts that I am going to be using for several of my shoes for my first collection. (bare in mind, the pointy one is similar to the shoes that I have already made, the ones on the left of the blog)

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"















Wednesday, 16 March 2011

A Trip To The Gaziano & Girling Factory


I remember the first time I ever visited a shoe factory; it was Santoni's factory in the Marche region of Italy, and being there (due to me being a shoe freak) was exactly like a little kid discovering Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory. The showroom was amazing, the factory floor was immaculate (especially for a factory) and shoes were everywhere. It was literally like shoe heaven. And the building I was in was just one of their three huge factories on site. It was such an experience!














But since then, I have visited several other factories, of all shapes and sizes, and one thing I came to realize in my judgment of how much I like a factory, is whether or not the factory feels intimate. As beautiful and amazing that Santoni's factory was, I truly felt that it lacked a sense of intimacy, where people came day in and day out to just do 'their job.' You might be thinking 'duh,' that's what work is, a job. But I mean it in the sense that one person come's to the factory every day and sits at the same machine all day long just putting heels on, and in reality, he/she doesn't give a shit about shoes, just getting a paycheck. This is not the case at Gaziano & Girling's factory.















Compared to Santoni's factory, where they employed hundreds, G&G only employs around 7 or 8 full-time workers, imagine that! And due to that small amount, you have workers there who do the amount of work usually managed by three or four people. And on top of that, several of the workers are also shoemakers, able to produce a pair of shoes entirely by hand, real artisans. So when you have a factory like this, small and with highly skilled artisans, you get that sense of intimacy, like the people who work there truly care about the shoes and how the end product comes out. And being someone who has also made shoes by hand, I can tell you that your ability of spotting flaws and discrepancies and being much more critical of a final product increases by 1000%. That being, you know if a G&G shoe is put into a box to send to a store, it is going to be damn near perfect!














In no way am I saying that G&G's factory is great and Santoni's is bad. They are just different. Both are amazing for what they are. I just happen to appreciate something that feels more intimate. But then again Santoni supplies to 100 times more stores than G&G, and I think that intimacy seems to directly correlate to this fact. Could be that if G&G grew to the size of Santoni, the intimacy of the factory and company would decline, who knows? Regardless, it is always a pleasure heading to historical Kettering to visit the G&G factory.













You might be wondering what the purpose of my visit was, so let me tell you. While this is not my first time up there, it has been the first time that I was able to document it for all of you, thanks to my lovely new camera. As many of you know, I am a young man on a quest to start my own shoe line, to fill a gap in the industry that I fel exists. On my journey thus far, I have met many wonderfully helpful individuals and Tony Gaziano & Dean Girling are two of those people. That being, they frequently allow me to come up to the factory to do my own projects. And with the assisitance of my good friend Daniel, I am able to work all weekend long until the wee hours of night, chipping away at heels, in which I did this trip in order to finish my 7th pair of shoes made for myself (which I will show in another post).

Well, I hope that you enjoy the pictures! Thanks to Tony and Dean for allowing me to document my trip. Until next time,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

A Flawless Bespoke Shoe:























Shoes, Shoes and More Shoes:












My Friend Daniel, Chipping Away At Heels: